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steering options for portals? can am x3 max

LunchBoxFab

LunchBoxFab

Well-known member
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Aug 3, 2021
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i finally pulled the trigger on some 4" 30% GEN3 GDP portals. i actually found a good deal on some lightly used ones. [ole boy slapped em on and didnt like the top speed on 31" tires] rig is 2020 X3 XRS RR MAX. i know - its gonna be a wide bitch.

my end goal is to run 37" trep stickies. or 35 roxxillas if i cant find any big backspacing 17" wheels in 4 on 137mm

My question here is what steering mods are needed here? i already have upgraded from the 30s to 32" maxxis libertys and the bump steer is already noticeable. for some context, i'm not rock bouncing or hitting the ledges, i'm carting the fam around the trails and trying not to drag my belly on every 2 and 3 rated trail. that being said, we all need to get home at the end of the trail. i'm more worried about reliability than ease of use on the trail.

i definitely need a TRE upgrade but what's the next step to turn 37s?

quick and easy is a hess steering rack brace with rods and ends ~ $1k
middle of the road is a billet steering rack with rods and ends ~ $2k
tits would be electric power steering kit with billet steering rack with rods and ends~ $3k
engine driven hydraulic kits are about the same price electric, but much more invasive install. that being said, the electric driven pump would probably nictitate a battery upgrade, so add an extra $250 for the odyssey

i'm leaning for the 2k rack kit with all the mechanical strength, then upgrade to an electric pump later if its still not enough after a couple trips.

TIA
 

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I don’t know what all the options really are. Recently picked up a 2 seater X3 72” wide. It’s already on 35x10 BFG KR2 desert tires.

I did change the 0 offset wheels (3.5/3.5 in SxS speak) for some +30 5/2 beadlocks. Also upgraded tie rods with heim outers and the offset spacers at the knuckle to reduce bump steer.

Running around mostly desert at speed in 4hi mostly, the stock EPS starts to get hot and lose some assist after about an hour of steady ripping.
 
Buddy has an '18 Can Am X3 Max in the 64" flavor. I don't know all the model designations but it's the really long 4 seater.. He upgraded to 32s and had to put 5+2 wheels on it to clear the rear trailing arms. I have driven it on and off the trailer and I don't know how he trail rides that thing. It might as well not have power assist. I guess the CA EPS kicks off at the slightest bit of resistance to save the steering rack. It doesn't help that the stock steering wheel is like 12" or something either.. He is really wanting to put the Shock Therapy race rack in his but hasn't yet because they are $2k. I can't remember for sure but I thought he told me the ST rack ratio is a little different so it's easier to steer? He said his factory steering is only 1.5 turns lock to lock.

There is a company that is making full hydro kits for the RZRs but its like $4k i think? It uses a belt driven pump off the stator side of the engine. Natural State Racecraft. RZR Forum Thread detailing his install of portal rig running 37s
 
On my talon, the steering worked pretty well, with tracks, and 32s aired down to 1-2 lbs. This was before I added any other electric accessories. Just adding a windshield wiper dropped the voltage enough that the steering would kick off constantly. Running the heater fan made it even worse. I had even added a 2nd battery.

My point being that, keeping the volts and amps up is important. Even if you upgrade the rack.
 
The Miller's didn't need portals on their X3's to run strong at KOH, you sure you need those and the headaches associated with them?

Id buy a set of 15x8 wheels with 0 offset, throw on a set of 35" rockzilla's and then go from there. If your adamant about running the portals carry lots of spare parts like ball joints and TRE's. They are going to wear at an alarming rate.
 
Yeah. The only 17” wheels I’ve seen are only +10. Thats not going to be ideal. I saw the same steering fade when we were out at KOH this year, but not in my normal use trail rides.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
On my talon, the steering worked pretty well, with tracks, and 32s aired down to 1-2 lbs. This was before I added any other electric accessories. Just adding a windshield wiper dropped the voltage enough that the steering would kick off constantly. Running the heater fan made it even worse. I had even added a 2nd battery.

My point being that, keeping the volts and amps up is important. Even if you upgrade the rack.
Click to expand...
Good info
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
The Miller's didn't need portals on their X3's to run strong at KOH, you sure you need those and the headaches associated with them?

Id buy a set of 15x8 wheels with 0 offset, throw on a set of 35" rockzilla's and then go from there. If your adamant about running the portals carry lots of spare parts like ball joints and TRE's. They are going to wear at an alarming rate.
Click to expand...
Those are 2 seat rigs. My 4 seat max is a belly dragger at 135”WB. I’m more interested in the ground clearance and gear reduction for large tires. I’m def not in the go fast crowd. I have heard lots of horror stories on the portals and I hope I can make them live. I already have the Keller ball joints and spares.
 
Have a buddy in Springfield MO that runs 4" portals on his '16 XPT4 with 34" Roktanes on 15" Method 5+2 wheels. He has blown up 2 portal boxes now. They are the Gen2 I believe. He is running the Saturn Vue electric steering kit and it shuts down to over heating quite often as well. His RZR is a monster and he beats on it like a redheaded step child. If there was a way to get the benefits of portals but put the ball joints in the portal housing somehow so it doesm't completely wreck the steering angles I would be all over it. i'd like to run 15% portals and 35" Zillas myself but the jacked up steering and added strain on ball joints and other suspension points has kept me on the sidelines.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
The Miller's didn't need portals on their X3's to run strong at KOH, you sure you need those and the headaches associated with them?

Id buy a set of 15x8 wheels with 0 offset, throw on a set of 35" rockzilla's and then go from there. If your adamant about running the portals carry lots of spare parts like ball joints and TRE's. They are going to wear at an alarming rate.
Click to expand...

Like he said, 105" wb vs 135".

There is a big difference between bashing through a trail to get through it, and getting through a trail without beating up your rig and occupants.

Lots of guys running 4" portals with pretty good luck. The extra strain on steering and ball joints might be offset by how much easier it can make it through obstacles. I do think 17s and 37 treps would be enormously heavy for a SxS.
 
Is there any wheel manufacturer that offers a 4 lug 17" beadlock in a high positive offset wheel? A 6+1 would be ideal if you can find it
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Is there any wheel manufacturer that offers a 4 lug 17" beadlock in a high positive offset wheel? A 6+1 would be ideal if you can find it
Click to expand...

Do you have options to change your bolt pattern when doing the portals? Or do you reuse the factory brakes?

Other option would be trail ready. They do 15 SxS wheels and made to order 17x8.5s with up to 6" bs. They don't list 4 lug patterns, but I'd almost guarantee that they would do it. I'd consider having 4x137 and 4x156 cut into them just incase you ever want to sell.

secure.trbeadlocks.com

Trailready TR Beadlock HD17

17 x 8.5, HD17 FlowFormed TR Beadlock Wheel. Complete with Install Instruction, Valve Stems, Ring Hardware and Decals. Lifetime Warranty Available. Allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.
secure.trbeadlocks.com
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Do you have options to change your bolt pattern when doing the portals? Or do you reuse the factory brakes?

Other option would be trail ready. They do 15 SxS wheels and made to order 17x8.5s with up to 6" bs. They don't list 4 lug patterns, but I'd almost guarantee that they would do it. I'd consider having 4x137 and 4x156 cut into them just incase you ever want to sell.

secure.trbeadlocks.com

Trailready TR Beadlock HD17

17 x 8.5, HD17 FlowFormed TR Beadlock Wheel. Complete with Install Instruction, Valve Stems, Ring Hardware and Decals. Lifetime Warranty Available. Allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.
secure.trbeadlocks.com
Click to expand...
As far as bolt pattern on the portals I think it could be done. I have to think the portal boxes are the same from make to make. ie Popo, CA, Kawis. Just different brackets that bolt to the balljoints/rear suspension. my buddy's portals that I have looked at take a different rotor than factory I believe.

Looks like OMF offers a 17" wheel for UTV but they are pricey! OMF

I think if you are gonna do a TR custom wheel then I would def get dual bolt patterns if you can. That way when/if you decide to sell them you will have a bigger market to sell to. I believe Kawis use the 4x156 bolt pattern as well.
 
Yxz switched to 156 also.

Not that it matters, something like 17s for a SxS would be 90% Polaris market and 9% can am, with 1% for everything else.


Looks like they're ahead of us

Home Page - SuperATV

I'd go that route with 5x5 or 8x6.5 depending on what's popular around you. Should save a lot of money over custom wheels. There are a few companies making 6" bs wheels in 8x6.5 for H1 portals rigs.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Do you have options to change your bolt pattern when doing the portals? Or do you reuse the factory brakes?

Other option would be trail ready. They do 15 SxS wheels and made to order 17x8.5s with up to 6" bs. They don't list 4 lug patterns, but I'd almost guarantee that they would do it. I'd consider having 4x137 and 4x156 cut into them just incase you ever want to sell.

secure.trbeadlocks.com

Trailready TR Beadlock HD17

17 x 8.5, HD17 FlowFormed TR Beadlock Wheel. Complete with Install Instruction, Valve Stems, Ring Hardware and Decals. Lifetime Warranty Available. Allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.
secure.trbeadlocks.com
Click to expand...
I can change the bolt pattern with the hubs. I can get new hubs to get to more popular bolt patterns.

I think my next option is to get the most backspacing possible.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I do think 17s and 37 treps would be enormously heavy for a SxS.
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I agree, I just don’t see any way around it. I don’t know of any other stickie options in a 37-38”
I’m buying new wheels anyway. I guess I could run a 20” if that got me to a lighter stickie tire combo?
 
If you want bigger than a 35, 17s are you're best bet for sure. Maybe look at BFG for lighter tires? Otherwise, I think you're looking at a very large jump in wieght for ~1" of clearance.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
If you want bigger than a 35, 17s are you're best bet for sure. Maybe look at BFG for lighter tires? Otherwise, I think you're looking at a very large jump in wieght for ~1" of clearance.
Click to expand...
this^^^^

a 37" truck tire is gonna be HEAVY AS ALL HELL! according to Maxxis website they are 88# plus the wheel. Trep Sticky

Personally I would stick with a 35" Roxxzilla and run forward arms to clear them. Looks like the SATV boxed forward arms will clear 36s SATV arms
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
this^^^^

a 37" truck tire is gonna be HEAVY AS ALL HELL! according to Maxxis website they are 88# plus the wheel. Trep Sticky

Personally I would stick with a 35" Roxxzilla and run forward arms to clear them. Looks like the SATV boxed forward arms will clear 36s SATV arms
Click to expand...
YotaAtieToo said:
If you want bigger than a 35, 17s are you're best bet for sure. Maybe look at BFG for lighter tires? Otherwise, I think you're looking at a very large jump in wieght for ~1" of clearance.
Click to expand...
Very good points
Stock wheels work, cheaper and steering is happier
Much lighter [32 liberties are 36#, 35 roxxillas 53#, 37” treps are 87#]
 
Lunchbox what part of the country are you in? I seem to remember you being in OK/TX/AR or something? For crawling rocks in southern MO or Moab then Sticky Zillas are top of the heap. If you want something more fireroad/ NF trail friendly I have a set of KM3s that work very well and the rounded profile makes them much easier to steer also. the KM3 are available in a 35 for the 15" rim and they weigh 53# 35" KM3

RMATV KM3

KM3 on Discount Tire direct DTD doesn't charge sales tax or shipping last time I bought tires from them:grinpimp:
 
The 35” BFG KR2 tires on my X3 seem to be clearing fine on what appears to be all stock 72” RC arms. Maybe a bit of rub marks on the smooth part of the firewall. And that’s with a ride height that’s lower than it needs to be (just haven’t been in the mood to adjust the pre-load since I got it; and I like the stance to be honest).
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
Lunchbox what part of the country are you in? I seem to remember you being in OK/TX/AR or something? For crawling rocks in southern MO or Moab then Sticky Zillas are top of the heap. If you want something more fireroad/ NF trail friendly I have a set of KM3s that work very well and the rounded profile makes them much easier to steer also. the KM3 are available in a 35 for the 15" rim and they weigh 53# 35" KM3

RMATV KM3

KM3 on Discount Tire direct DTD doesn't charge sales tax or shipping last time I bought tires from them:grinpimp:
Click to expand...
You’re right. I’m in south Louisiana and wheeling in Arkansas, Alabama, Tennessee and Texas. Normally wet rocks with sand and clay mixed in.

I’m not really in love with the 37” KM3s I have on my JL, but that’s a totally different weight class.
The more I look at the Roxxzillas the more the make the most sense. Tensor makes a lighter 37”x10” but the tread is very desert inspired and wouldn’t like this terrain.
 
LunchBoxFab said:
You’re right. I’m in south Louisiana and wheeling in Arkansas, Alabama, Tennessee and Texas. Normally wet rocks with sand and clay mixed in.

I’m not really in love with the 37” KM3s I have on my JL, but that’s a totally different weight class.
The more I look at the Roxxzillas the more the make the most sense. Tensor makes a lighter 37”x10” but the tread is very desert inspired and wouldn’t like this terrain.
Click to expand...
a friend has a set of 30" Tensors and they do ok for fire roads and Moab/desert riding. He said they are downright scary at SMORR on the rocks when it's wet.. He calls it the Tensor Terror! :laughing:

I think the Zillas are only available in comp compound in 35s. I had a set of regular compound Zillas and even they did pretty well but sold them and bought stickies. The stickies are so much better though. If you are riding on pavement or gravel roads a lot then I would def look into the KM3. I have ran my KM3 at SMORR at 8# and they do surprisingly well.
 
So I just happened to come across that the mrt xrox is offered in a 37 and a 39. For some reason sxs's jump from 15s to 18s. But from 30 secs on google, 18x7s in a 6+1 seem easy to find.

Also just saw a video of a 4 seat general with portals and 43s :laughing: so I say go to the 39s :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Don't forget the difference in a 15x7 SxS wheel and a 17x9 truck wheel.
Click to expand...
Yeah.

I ordered the 35x10-15 stickies from go forth.

Edit: on the steering I think I’ll upgrade the steering brace, rods and TREs. Hopefully the stock rc wheels keep the steering happier.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
So I just happened to come across that the mrt xrox is offered in a 37 and a 39. For some reason sxs's jump from 15s to 18s. But from 30 secs on google, 18x7s in a 6+1 seem easy to find.

Also just saw a video of a 4 seat general with portals and 43s :laughing: so I say go to the 39s :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
I saw that as well.

I think the next logical step in a truck weight, stickie rock tire would be to 20” wheels
 
LunchBoxFab said:
I saw that as well.

I think the next logical step in a truck weight, stickie rock tire would be to 20” wheels
Click to expand...
Even with 40s, a 20" wheel doesn't leave a lot of sidewall. 42s are the minimum imo and even then, 17s seem to work fine. I just thought it's odd that they skipped 17s and 18s seem to be the next standard size. Maybe the amount of crossover from rock crawlers to SxSs is less than I think.
 
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