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Steel Demon for 3/4" plate?

subybaja

subybaja

E. Spengler
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
54
Messages
2,356
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Spenard Ak
MIL wants me to cut some 3/4 plate steel tomorrow- she's building a hydraulic press. It'll end up looking like a meteorite if I break out the cutting torch, so how about a 4400rpm worm-drive with a Steel Demon blade?

It says 5800 max, and 1/2"- surely it'll do 3/4 if I don't push it?

diablo-circular-saw-blades-d0748cfr-64_1000.jpg
 
It will work as long as the metal doesn’t pull or shrink back and pinch the blade. How long are the cuts?
 
clamp a straight edge and go slow lube or anything to help the blade cool. even water. set your blade as deep as you can so as few teeth are in the cut as possible.
i hate dealing with the chips but at least they are magnetic unlike cutting aluminum.
 
tracyb said:
clamp a straight edge and go slow lube or anything to help the blade cool. even water. set your blade as deep as you can so as few teeth are in the cut as possible.
i hate dealing with the chips but at least they are magnetic unlike cutting aluminum.
Click to expand...
That's some good advice, thanks. I was going to go the other way, and try it in 3-4 passes for shallower cuts, but that would give me a real long chip, and bog down the motor...
 
I'd let you borrow my metal cutting saw if I was around. It cuts 1/2" steel almost as easy as a wood saw cutting plywood.
 
It will cut but slow going. Depending on how long of a cut, your going to need a few cool down breaks. Set the saw at full depth.
 
tracyb said:
lube or anything to help the blade cool. even water.
Click to expand...
you sure?
carbide at its limits of surface speed like these dry cut blades are operating at is a little wierd in what it needs
always heard you do not want coolant unless you can do some really high pressure injector type shit
the thermal shock of the tooth coming out of the cut, shedding the chip and then coming into contact with coolant is enough to make the carbide micro-fracture
it is doing 8400 sf/m after all, just obscenely fast for uncoated carbide

grinder to take off the mill scale and any torch cut slag will vastly improve the service life
 
[486] said:
you sure?
carbide at its limits of surface speed like these dry cut blades are operating at is a little wierd in what it needs
always heard you do not want coolant unless you can do some really high pressure injector type shit
the thermal shock of the tooth coming out of the cut, shedding the chip and then coming into contact with coolant is enough to make the carbide micro-fracture
it is doing 8400 sf/m after all, just obscenely fast for uncoated carbide

grinder to take off the mill scale and any torch cut slag will vastly improve the service life
Click to expand...


nope/ maybe. just from experience.

dont use water a ton, and when i do i dont flood the thing, it probably helps more to keep the material cool. but always try to at least use wax. wax has always helped.


had never even thought to grind the millscale off.
 
I just hog in like I'm cutting plywood.

Blades are fairly cheap and last quite a while.
 
Well, that was an abject failure.

Turns out the guy from MIL's church had two sheets of 1/2", not 3/4". OK, that'll work.

"My kid was going to use it for a shooting target."

Hmm.

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:eek:

AR-something? I might as well have used a wood blade, the carbide came off so fast...
 
Hah... I read this thread right before attempting something similar last night.

This is the blade I used.

www.ebay.com

7-1/4" 42 Teeth 5/8" Arbor Metal Ferrous Cutting Carbide Tipped Saw Blade -18542 99461773288 | eBay

Model: 18542. Superior Steel 18542 Specifications Arbor: 5/8". Number of Teeth: 42. Expansion slots reduce blade warping. Tooth Design: ATB. If an identical item is unavailable, we reserve the right to substitute an item of equal or greater value at our discretion.
www.ebay.com

Anyways I chopped up a bunch of 1/4 plate like I normally would and then I had some 1" plate I needed to cut into 6" wide strips. I made it through one 18" long cut and it left a beautiful finish, but the blade and saw weren't really happy. Started a second cut and went in about 4" and it was really not happy and tripped the breaker. Decided to lay out my lines, score them with a grinder to make them real easy to see and cut with a torch just like you did. :laughing:
 
Oh whoops I was looking at the angle iron in the picture with the tape measure lol
thought it was 1.5" plate
 
[486] said:
prolly a road plate
Click to expand...
One year we were hauling loads across a site that had road plates over a filled in trench. One of our guys kept throwing the trailer brakes and dragging the plates down the road :lmao:
 
Goddamnit. :laughing:

I blew all the concrete dust out of the saw, checked the brushes, changed the gearbox oil for the first time ever...and put the blade on backwards. :homer:

Check in next week to see how well drillbits work in reverse. Don't forget to like and subscribe.

:shaking:
 
Doing my metal roof, I did use a regular blade backwards to cut all the panels to length. It would do 5-6 at a time without a problem. Loud as hell, and kind of smeared through them, though- lots of sharp burrs.
 
subybaja said:
Goddamnit. :laughing:

I blew all the concrete dust out of the saw, checked the brushes, changed the gearbox oil for the first time ever...and put the blade on backwards. :homer:

Check in next week to see how well drillbits work in reverse. Don't forget to like and subscribe.

:shaking:
Click to expand...
:lmao: You and my son would get along just fine.
 
rofl
subybaja said:
Doing my metal roof, I did use a regular blade backwards to cut all the panels to length. It would do 5-6 at a time without a problem. Loud as hell, and kind of smeared through them, though- lots of sharp burrs.
Click to expand...

I got an old plywood blade I use on stuff under 1/8"
the teeth are basically gone, it just friction saws
 
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