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Stand alone transmission controller

Minotaur software for the hydra is $750 for one license.


Description​


Minotaur Tuning Software: Use what the professionals do for added control and performance
Any 7.3L owner who wants more control over their tuning should give Minotaur a run. Choosing your user level gives you varying degrees of control and access to maps and functions. You choose the proficiency you’re comfortable with. Create, edit, and refine your own 7.3L Powerstroke tunes. Compatible with our Hydra Chip.

Features:​

  • Tune using the same 3D graphical tuning software used by hundreds of professionals
  • Currently available for 7.3L PSDs
  • Supports full, 4-bank emulation using Moates Quarterhorse emulator (Quarterhorse not included)
  • Modifiable map scaling
  • Adjustable X/Y axis zero coordinates
  • Scaled or fixed map axes
  • Full support for 32-bit float memory
  • Up to 8 viewable binaries (1 working and 7 overlays)
  • Improved map blending from overlays
  • Free trial version available for use

Packages:​


  • Individual 7.3L Minotaur Package: $745
    • Software license
    • MDF (definition file) for requested PCM strategy
    • All standard calibrations for requested PCM strategy (total number based on year of truck)
    • Hydra Chip w/ Extension Cable
    • Compatible with Moates Quarterhorse Emulator
 
I have a 96 block I'm About to start building (this summer). I have an e4od core, but I'm wondering if the 4r100 wouldn't be better.


Is Brian's (in arkansas) still the shop to use?
 
Yep ahnate covered it well. All electronic. You can run the transmission with toggle switches.
Line pressure is what you can't control with a toggle, it'd need a variable resistor. Setting that up with something you could change on thr dash when you wanted to plus push buttons would give you "full manual" control.

However, that'd be enough of a pain in the ass to justify a few hundred bucks on a controller that will do it all based on throttle position, rpm and vacuum
 
I have a 96 block I'm About to start building (this summer). I have an e4od core, but I'm wondering if the 4r100 wouldn't be better.


Is Brian's (in arkansas) still the shop to use?

Some light reading for you if you want. No idea on a shop to use
 
I have a 96 block I'm About to start building (this summer). I have an e4od core, but I'm wondering if the 4r100 wouldn't be better.


Is Brian's (in arkansas) still the shop to use?
I would think so but the price has increased dramatically.
My personal experience with local trusted re-builder really had me questioning my ability to get a bullet proof trans affordably.

I still think I'd rather buy the best parts I could and build my own as much as that would suck to do.
 
I still think I'd rather buy the best parts I could and build my own as much as that would suck to do.
I'm in this boat with my e4od. I already burned up a stock torque converter and I'm sure the rest of the trans is on the way out since I put the cheapest one I could find in it 20kmi ago. I just can't see paying $5k+ for a rebuild.

How hard could it be?
 
I'm in this boat with my e4od. I already burned up a stock torque converter and I'm sure the rest of the trans is on the way out since I put the cheapest one I could find in it 20kmi ago. I just can't see paying $5k+ for a rebuild.

How hard could it be?
I don't think it's hard technically, if you watch the speed at which a pro do these jobs there is little in the way of fucks given.

I did the Tugger kit on my 4r100 when it was 20k miles and it lasted till 185 before pushing the pump seal out.
 
I'm in this boat with my e4od. I already burned up a stock torque converter and I'm sure the rest of the trans is on the way out since I put the cheapest one I could find in it 20kmi ago. I just can't see paying $5k+ for a rebuild.

How hard could it be?
it can't possibly be that hard, certainly not $5k hard even if you spend a couple grand on all new everything
 
it can't possibly be that hard, certainly not $5k hard even if you spend a couple grand on all new everything


You're not paying for the parts, you're paying for the speed :lmao:

I mean, you're paying to go pick it up and put it in (or have it installed), nit to spend the 30-40 hours it would take you to do all the work yourself.
 
You're not paying for the parts, you're paying for the speed :lmao:

I mean, you're paying to go pick it up and put it in (or have it installed), nit to spend the 30-40 hours it would take you to do all the work yourself.
probably 6-8 hours with drinking beer :flipoff2:

but yeah, there is an absolute value that's tough to see at times for what it costs to pay other people to do work
 
John Wood was your man. Unfortunately he has closed his shop and retired. He built my trans and all the problems you list went away.
I spent a lot of money with John. I now have a ZF6....... Zero problems now.

Something was funky with my old truck, after John got done with it, it shifted great. Every time I was towing heavy up a long grade the trans would go into limp mode. I kept a scanner plugged in so I could reset it on the fly. Solved by selling truck.
 
I have a 96 block I'm About to start building (this summer). I have an e4od core, but I'm wondering if the 4r100 wouldn't be better.


Is Brian's (in arkansas) still the shop to use?
I bought my 4R100 from him late 2020. The first one had some sort of issue that caused a delay into reverse, especially after sitting. He sent a new one and it has been flawless and shifts awesome.

The TC lockup will jar you a little.
 
on mine (on an IDI) before I yanked it for a ZF, first I cut the wire for the EPC solenoid, which firmed up the shifts really nicely
then when I got tired of it deciding to stay in second I cut the wires to the shift solenoids and put a couple toggle switches on there to shift them manually

it wasn't terrible, but I didn't happen to fuck up and put it in first on the freeway, if I had it'd have soured my opinion of the shit even further
 
I don't think it's hard technically, if you watch the speed at which a pro do these jobs there is little in the way of fucks given.

I did the Tugger kit on my 4r100 when it was 20k miles and it lasted till 185 before pushing the pump seal out.
It is not hard.

But the hard parts are. Did you get the one way clutches in the right way? Do you know what bad parts look like? Are you sure you got the stack together correctly? Do you have the fractions and steel assortment you need or snap rings or backing plates to get your clearances right?

You pay for experience.

I ended up buying 2 overhaul kits.first one had the extra high dollar fractions but the rubber parts were the cheapest.
I bought a second overhaul kit from racerx it had everything with the best seals.
But still needed to have enough different parts to get my clearances tight.

Tugger kit, some sonnax upgrades. Heavy duty 45 element roller. Mine was a 1995 so most of the hard parts were already upgraded.

There was a thread on oil burners I followed also a rebuild thread on fourdoorbronco website.

So no not difficult but gotta take your time to research every step so you don't miss improvements or upgrades.

Like there is no clearance spec for the reverse clutch pack. I set it up at .025 plus the sonax and tugger upgrades. Reverse gear is instant.

Like the pump most people won't know what a bad pump looks like. Just put a pump in it.

Maybe took me 2 weeks working in my garage at night. It is tough to stop and go read or research but you have to do it or you will be there again
 
on mine (on an IDI) before I yanked it for a ZF, first I cut the wire for the EPC solenoid, which firmed up the shifts really nicely
then when I got tired of it deciding to stay in second I cut the wires to the shift solenoids and put a couple toggle switches on there to shift them manually

it wasn't terrible, but I didn't happen to fuck up and put it in first on the freeway, if I had it'd have soured my opinion of the shit even further

Have no experience with this trans.

Can you run a Rad Designs shifter on it with a toggle for computer or manual.

I know on my AW4 his shifter was awesome and let me take control when needed
 
Well if you had a Chevy your resale would be better and your trans wouldn’t have any shifting issues. In fact, be glad it isn’t a jelly bean Ford or it would be worth 350 at best.
 
it wasn't terrible, but I didn't happen to fuck up and put it in first on the freeway, if I had it'd have soured my opinion of the shit even further
Should be real easy for someone who gives a fuck to make up a relay box that makes to a 8-position (four gears plus lockup in each) dial switch so that there's no way to get to any given gear without going through the adjacent one in the lineup.

Varying the line pressure so that it doesn't fuck itself up running everything at max pressure all the time is the hard part.
 
Should be real easy for someone who gives a fuck to make up a relay box that makes to a 8-position (four gears plus lockup in each) dial switch so that there's no way to get to any given gear without going through the adjacent one in the lineup.

Varying the line pressure so that it doesn't fuck itself up running everything at max pressure all the time is the hard part.


What would be even cooler is to run all that through some type of program and be able to make it shift when you want without having to touch the switches. You could even put in programmable pressure curves and cool things like temp safeties and stuff...

Oh wait

The only thing I wish the micro would do that it currently doesn't is have a tow/haul mode option. Like when you turn off OD or have another input for it. The software is still being developed and it might happen though. It does have a "race" mode that you night be able to make work decent for it, I haven't futzed around with it yet. My trans wants more line pressure on the 1-2 while towing but only while towing..
 
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All that stuff is awesome from a DIY/tinkerer standpoint but you have to wonder if that is the best use of your time for a old 4 speed auto.

If someone (US Shift) finally releases a 6R140 controller these old trucks would get a several decade boost in performance.

In the mean time, the Quick 4 controller seems pretty bad ass.


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I FINALLY got through to a tech guy at Baumann or USSHIFT or whatever you want to call them.

He was helpful and we brainstormed a while but he basically said it is impossible to run an E4OD and a Gear Vender with any of their controllers.

The quick shift 6 is specifically for the 6r trans.

The E4OD would use the quick 4.

We even talked about the old school baumanator that came out in 1997. I had read of a guy controlling both his E4OD and GV with it. Tech support guy at Baumann said basically he has no idea how anyone could do that. There are no extra outputs available, and really they are just software programing without any positive or negative outputs. He said their system only loads it's one shift profile into the computer basically and doesn't turn solenoids on or off.

I think I will call like PCS or TCI and see if they can help me do it.

Otherwise I might go a different direction, like buying the Hydra programming software and write my own tunes or something stupid.

Or maybe I should make an adapter for the 6R to 7.3 diesel
 
Motec is another company you could talk to. They cater more to supercars, but they can program a lot of cool things into cars nowadays, but probably way too expensive for your needs.





https://www.motec.com.au/
 
I never weighed in when this thread was new. Maybe you know already but I gotta ask.

Did you upgrade your cab light with an LED unit? Are you aware of the ECM capacitor failure that kills the board and the first symptom is erratic shift. Hard shifting. Soft shifting. Early TC lockup.
 
I never weighed in when this thread was new. Maybe you know already but I gotta ask.

Did you upgrade your cab light with an LED unit? Are you aware of the ECM capacitor failure that kills the board and the first symptom is erratic shift. Hard shifting. Soft shifting. Early TC lockup.
You are correct leds cause tons of issues on the e4od

But I don't have an led on the entire truck.
 
Minotaur software for the hydra is $750 for one license.


Description​


Minotaur Tuning Software: Use what the professionals do for added control and performance
Any 7.3L owner who wants more control over their tuning should give Minotaur a run. Choosing your user level gives you varying degrees of control and access to maps and functions. You choose the proficiency you’re comfortable with. Create, edit, and refine your own 7.3L Powerstroke tunes. Compatible with our Hydra Chip.

Features:​

  • Tune using the same 3D graphical tuning software used by hundreds of professionals
  • Currently available for 7.3L PSDs
  • Supports full, 4-bank emulation using Moates Quarterhorse emulator (Quarterhorse not included)
  • Modifiable map scaling
  • Adjustable X/Y axis zero coordinates
  • Scaled or fixed map axes
  • Full support for 32-bit float memory
  • Up to 8 viewable binaries (1 working and 7 overlays)
  • Improved map blending from overlays
  • Free trial version available for use

Packages:​


  • Individual 7.3L Minotaur Package: $745
    • Software license
    • MDF (definition file) for requested PCM strategy
    • All standard calibrations for requested PCM strategy (total number based on year of truck)
    • Hydra Chip w/ Extension Cable
    • Compatible with Moates Quarterhorse Emulator
I also have been looking into this.

Your programs start from scratch.

I wanted to just peek into my ts program or ff program and adjust shifting but nope those programs are encrypted and cannot be viewed.

There is some debate if live tuning will allow you to peek but you have a problem saving without hitting encryption issues.
 
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