What's new
By:
Filters

Spinoff: recommend best method to 'protect' window opening when a wildfire approaches

Lil'John

Lil'John

Former #278
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
488
Messages
1,150
Loc
Walking to the Rubicon
Title is basically it.

My reading shows claims that roof vents and window openings(drapes, flooring) are the big causes of houses being destroyed in a wildfire. For purposes of this thread, let us assume the yard in mostly fire-hardened and there is no fuel sources against the house.

Sealing up the roof is 'fairly easy'; reblock rafter blocks, resheath dedicated vents, and insulate the roof instead of the attic joist. Nothing magic there. In my case, I've already got architectural plans to do just that.

But the question is what is the best way to mitigate the window openings without removing them entirely:homer:

Is it plywood up like a hurricane? Time to me becomes an issue in the case of a wildfire since they move damn quick.

Storm shutters?

Is there a better quality window that prevents this?

How about 'fire proof' drapes? Maybe not asbestos:homer: but what else?
 
Some form of fire proof shutter?

Welding blanket / mat coverings?

Would depend on design of your window. Pics?
 
Crashhawk said:
Some form of fire proof shutter?

Welding blanket / mat coverings?

Would depend on design of your window. Pics?
Click to expand...
I was trying to keep the thread semi 'generic'.

In my case, the windows are old school 70s/80s aluminum clad double pane windows. I forget what architecture plans called out to replace them with.... not sure I'm going that route at this time.

My current plan is hopefully get roof/awning extension, attic sealing, and reroof done.

Siding will be done in 'upscaled' Hardi siding... it is currently t1-11 with a few miles.:homer:
 
Metal blinds and hardwood floors vs drapes and carpet?

How fire resistant is drywall? Drywall screwed over the windows hurricane style?
 
Ebs said:
Metal blinds and hardwood floors vs drapes and carpet?

How fire resistant is drywall? Drywall screwed over the windows hurricane style?
Click to expand...
Not sure on how fire resistant drywall is when compared to regular plywood. There is the fireply but I don't recall price on that.

The issue with drywall is the house may be getting dumped on by planes so it would fall apart pretty quick :(

I guess a follow up question would be should one worry about 2nd/3rd floor windows?:confused:
 
Would a whole house fire blanket be faster/ better?

Problem with windows is either class breaking or the plastic casing just melting.
 
Lil'John said:
Title is basically it.
Click to expand...

So, I've been reading alot about safes and fireproofing recently. The goal of fireproofing is to last X hours @ X degrees. Being generic, I'd say you want to try to do similar thing, by making a layered defense. The best course of action would be to strip back a safe zone between yourself an and the surrounding land.

Lil'John said:
But the question is what is the best way to mitigate the window openings without removing them entirely:homer:
Click to expand...
The Welding blanket Idea/shutter would be a good idea. You could install a forward glass or something else infront of the windows. But, If a big fire comes, I wouldn't want to see outside.
Lil'John said:
Is it plywood up like a hurricane? Time to me becomes an issue in the case of a wildfire since they move damn quick.
Click to expand...
No, That would probably help burn things down faster. On large fires, the Infared heat will cause them to combust.
Lil'John said:
How about 'fire proof' drapes? Maybe not asbestos:homer: but what else?
Click to expand...

Having an air space will do more than people give them credit. If it was me, I'd make some kind of Shudder out of metal and welding blankets. Easy to make in advance, easy to install without too much trouble. I don't know about attic spaces. Could you add a roof sprinkler and backup generator to run your well be too easy?

Drywall has a 1 hour fire rating.
 
RusM said:
Hang a sheet of metal over the window? Keep your windows closed? :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Sheet is possible... what I've read on the windows is they blow out due to the heat and that results in fire getting pulled into the house.

Here is a side view of the house:
Fire1.jpg

It is a few years old but still similar enough.

The pink/purple box is currently 4' wide concrete steps that run the length of the house. The green StJohn's runs right up to it.

There is a big 4'x8' window near the chimney. Do the windows circled in red need help during a wild fire?

The dirt gap between the house on the left is at least 14' wide and mostly veg free going uphill ~10-12' more.

On the right, there is similar 16' wide dirt gap between house and StJohns that runs downhill. There are no windows on the bottom/basement level. There are three windows at the next level. And two windows at the same level as the red boxes.

The backside of the house is dirt with StJohns running to within 1' of the house but no windows at ground level and a matching window to the red box in the picture.
 
Agree with the above. Your defensible space is severely lacking. I get wanting to have the feel of nature that you do, but once those trees have fire in their canopy, your house is at high risk even with the window and vent protection you are asking about. 30ft is the minimum hardscape and 100ft is the law for tree and shrub spacing, fuel reduction zone, etc.
 
blakes said:
judging from that pic, wouldn't you be better off doing some fire mitigation and cut all those trees?
Click to expand...
Closest tree of the backside in that picture is 40'. To the right, it is closer to 100'. To the left is also 40'. In the front, there is a tree to the right of the house line and about 60' away.

I am reasonably satisfied with the vegetation mitigation on the property. De-vegetation to a 50' radius is NOT an option I will consider. I will keep all underbrush cleared out to a large radius as it is currently(minor touchups needed)
 
non-OP said:
Agree with the above. Your defensible space is severely lacking. I get wanting to have the feel of nature that you do, but once those trees have fire in their canopy, your house is at high risk even with the window and vent protection you are asking about. 30ft is the minimum hardscape and 100ft is the law for tree and shrub spacing, fuel reduction zone, etc.
Click to expand...
Calfire had zero issue with the tree locations when they pissed all over other things that were BS according to neighbor fire fighters.:homer:
 
Shutters if you expect water dumps. It comes down with impressive force.
Definitely try to set up a watering system.

Guy I know called a local smokejumper and had him out for dinner/drinks. Got a pretty good idea of what was needed from that conversation.
Basically:
Metal roof if you need to re-roof or if you have shakes.
Shutters made out of metal or at least covered with sheet steel.
Keep yard mowed and green. Or dirt. Not pine needles.
Any tree that could fall onto your house if cut down wrong needs to go.
porch needs to be fire resistant. If the decking is wood it’ll make good kindling against your house.
Dormers over windows are a bonus.
Keep combustibles in a separate building. Lawnmower gas, camping propane, etc.

You’ll probably save money on your insurance if you do all that and document with the company.
 
Oh and is the house on propane?
Need to do something about the tank if so. I’m not sure exactly what though. Can’t remember that part of the conversation.
 
Ditchrunner said:
Shutters if you expect water dumps. It comes down with impressive force.
Definitely try to set up a watering system.

Guy I know called a local smokejumper and had him out for dinner/drinks. Got a pretty good idea of what was needed from that conversation.
Basically:
Metal roof if you need to re-roof or if you have shakes.
Shutters made out of metal or at least covered with sheet steel.
Keep yard mowed and green. Or dirt. Not pine needles.
Any tree that could fall onto your house if cut down wrong needs to go.
porch needs to be fire resistant. If the decking is wood it’ll make good kindling against your house.
Dormers over windows are a bonus.
Keep combustibles in a separate building. Lawnmower gas, camping propane, etc.

You’ll probably save money on your insurance if you do all that and document with the company.
Click to expand...
Lots of good info.

Metal roof is on the menu after other house sells.

Yard is mostly wacked but probably needs a refresh. The pines don't seem to drop anything here. It is dirt or road at least to 100'.

Good comment about decking and house. The deck in the picture is going to be converted over to IPE wood; nasty dense redwood.:eek:

Interesting about the combustibles... mine are in the basement basically dead middle of the house(basement is ~11' wide from the right side of the picture. So the combustibles are 11' away from the siding. To repeat from elsewhere; the basement has no windows and just a door with zero access into the house. The basement is 'finished with drywall hung and Rockwool insulation(got a very good rating for fire capability)
Ditchrunner said:
Oh and is the house on propane?
Need to do something about the tank if so. I’m not sure exactly what though. Can’t remember that part of the conversation.
Click to expand...
House is on propane and tank is ~40' away from house on the left in the picture.
 
Lil'John said:
Here is a side view of the house:
Fire1.jpg
Click to expand...
Bigger issue is the gable and soffit vents. Hot super heated air get pulled in one side of the house creating a bellows effects feeding air to fire and out the other side. A friend's house burned while under construction, soffits not installed yet, pictures were pretty crazy how air was pulled in one side and 30' flames coming out the other. You would need to seal the vents also.
 
Ditchrunner said:
Shutters if you expect water dumps. It comes down with impressive force.
Definitely try to set up a watering system.

Guy I know called a local smokejumper and had him out for dinner/drinks. Got a pretty good idea of what was needed from that conversation.
Basically:
Metal roof if you need to re-roof or if you have shakes.
Shutters made out of metal or at least covered with sheet steel.
Keep yard mowed and green. Or dirt. Not pine needles.
Any tree that could fall onto your house if cut down wrong needs to go.
porch needs to be fire resistant. If the decking is wood it’ll make good kindling against your house.
Dormers over windows are a bonus.
Keep combustibles in a separate building. Lawnmower gas, camping propane, etc.

You’ll probably save money on your insurance if you do all that and document with the company.
Click to expand...
In my experience in a completely different situation, dealing with insurance, they aren't going to give a damn. You live in an area that actuaryies have deemed a loss.
 
Grnjp92 said:
In my experience in a completely different situation, dealing with insurance, they aren't going to give a damn. You live in an area that actuaryies have deemed a loss.
Click to expand...
Huh. My house got a break for the steel roof and then I got hosed on the fireplace.
Natural gas was cheaper than propane. :confused:

But I don’t doubt it can be different based on location.
 
What does it look like going down the hill? The fire is going to come uphill 16x faster than flat ground.

If you don’t have enough space from the house to the combustibles the gable end vents are the least of your issues.

Those trees in front will torch up quick and move on. It’s once they sit on fire for days they become an issue.
 
Last edited:
I’ve seen a lot more homes with proper defensible space burn down from embers getting into attic vents than from blowing out windows. They do make WUI rated windows that are made with tempered glass. They should hold up better to high heat.

If a home doesn’t have proper defensible space you likely won’t get an engine hanging around trying to protect it. Having a solid water source and easy ingress/egress to your place is also very important.
 
Last edited:
Ebs said:
Metal blinds and hardwood floors vs drapes and carpet?

How fire resistant is drywall? Drywall screwed over the windows hurricane style?
Click to expand...
piece of drywall is the baffle in my woodstove

use the stuff with fiberglass in it, the plain stuff gets real weak once the paper's all burnt off
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh