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Solar inlet connector

kf4zht

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
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561
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1,064
Adding solar to my trailer. One of the foldable panel types. Going to stick a charge controller in the wiring area for it but need a connector for the inlet.

Needs to be panel mount
Not shared with other stuff so it wont get confused
Preferably weathersealed on its own


There is the "official Furry approved one" https://www.amazon.com/Furrion-FSPINS-BS-Black-Solar-Inlet/dp/B017P8H8XG
But kind of steep for a connector.

There is a cheaper chineseium version https://www.amazon.com/HangTon-Waterproof-Connector-Industrial-Coupling/dp/B07DLTV59M

Or the even cheaper chineiumer one https://www.amazon.com/SZJELEN-Waterproof-Circular-Aviation-Connector/dp/B07CCJQ14J

Or this one, but its a little too close to a SAE plug for my taste https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Sidewall-Connector-Weatherproof-Generator/dp/B07XLK4CH3

Finally the panel has a 5.5x2.1 barrel out, so I could just stick with the cheapest, but concerned about weather resistance and those skinny little wires https://www.amazon.com/RLECS-Connector-Dustproof-Water-Proof-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07X1HZLTF

So what say irate? Anyone used any of the options?
 
Pick your poison.

You can just hang whatever connector you want under the side skirt of the trailer and not use a surface mount at all.

I hate SAE connectors so I wouldn't got that route personally. I would be more likely go the furion route or some free on hand industrial (deustsch, MC4 etc.) mounted on the frame.
 
Seems like dc voltage is too much for you. Alligator clips. Red and black. Battery studs, red and black. But either of those other connectors will work too.
 
NOODLES said:
Seems like dc voltage is too much for you. Alligator clips. Red and black. Battery studs, red and black. But either of those other connectors will work too.
Click to expand...
Seems more like DC is too much for you. Bright idea to attach a 20+ VDC source to a battery unregulated. Well, it will be when something catches fire.
 
kf4zht said:
Seems more like DC is too much for you. Bright idea to attach a 20+ VDC source to a battery unregulated. Well, it will be when something catches fire.
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Seems like DC it is too much for you. Your question is a connector question, and not a component question. How many amps are you planning on passing?
 
They make different size Anderson connectors. They do not have to be the large ones typically used on winches and jumper cables. They are pretty nice, and not cheesedick like the typical rv/boat ones. there is no weather seal. But I am sure there has got to be a cover made for them when not in use.
 
CarterKraft said:
Pick your poison.

You can just hang whatever connector you want under the side skirt of the trailer and not use a surface mount at all.

I hate SAE connectors so I wouldn't got that route personally. I would be more likely go the furion route or some free on hand industrial (deustsch, MC4 etc.) mounted on the frame.
Click to expand...

I ordered a knock off furrion one from ebay, when it shows up in 3-36 months I'll see how the quality is. DT connectors are great, but dont seem to be built for constant plugging and disconnecting. Same with MC4. Both are more designed for component replacement or occasional maint work.

NOODLES said:
Seems like DC it is too much for you. Your question is a connector question, and not a component question. How many amps are you planning on passing?
Click to expand...

Somewhere between a 50w-120w panel, most that size output 18-20v. So well less than 10a. What I am more looking for is issues like this connector gets grit and stops locking, This one sucks at corrosion.

NOODLES said:
They make different size Anderson connectors. They do not have to be the large ones typically used on winches and jumper cables. They are pretty nice, and not cheesedick like the typical rv/boat ones. there is no weather seal. But I am sure there has got to be a cover made for them when not in use.
Click to expand...

I have a few of the 20a powerpoles, mostly on radio gear. I could use a different color, but every panel mount design I have seen for them is hack at best. The bigger ones with a weather seal front are nice, but massive overkill for this.

Gatorgrizz27 said:
I like these, I have them on my boat and cargo trailer as well as my battery charger and jump starter pack.


Cheap, flush mountable, tethered caps, either 10 gauge or 8 gauge with heat shrink butt connectors already attached.
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Where were these when I rewired my trolling motor. I used anderson SB connectors since I had them but they are meh. Still an upgrade from the white trash standard 14ga extension cord and wire nuts.
 
RunningProblem said:
Thread revival…what did you end up going with?
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What are you shooting for?

I've had great success with just the MC4 connections hanging under the skirt. No need to go through an exterior wall and I made up a dummy lead to keep the plugs blocked and clean while traveling
 
I’m currently going with some MC4 connections into the existing solar charge controller. I just wondered if this ever finished up since it would be a second option in the future. Portable solar panel with the charge controller on the back plugged into the side of a trailer and moved around to get as much sun as possible.
 
RunningProblem said:
Thread revival…what did you end up going with?
Click to expand...

This one. On the front of the trailer and its gotten more than its fair share of road crap thrown at it, zero issues.

and this for the charge controller - Amazon.com. Its in a not fully enclosed space and has worked great. There was a warning about not connecting it and another charger on the battery side (can't take the back flow?) so I have a 2 way switch that swaps between the solar and shore charger.
 
kf4zht said:

This one. On the front of the trailer and its gotten more than its fair share of road crap thrown at it, zero issues.

and this for the charge controller - Amazon.com. Its in a not fully enclosed space and has worked great. There was a warning about not connecting it and another charger on the battery side (can't take the back flow?) so I have a 2 way switch that swaps between the solar and shore charger.
Click to expand...
That's something like a XLR style deal, looks cool.
 
kf4zht said:

This one. On the front of the trailer and its gotten more than its fair share of road crap thrown at it, zero issues.

and this for the charge controller - Amazon.com. Its in a not fully enclosed space and has worked great. There was a warning about not connecting it and another charger on the battery side (can't take the back flow?) so I have a 2 way switch that swaps between the solar and shore charger.
Click to expand...
I have what looks like that same cheapy charge controller on my backhoe in the battery box sitting on the batteries with a 5amp fuse. I have no switch or anything that disconnects it from batteries when the engine is running. No issues. I only use it to top off the batteries with a 100w panel because the hoe just sits there most of the time.
 
blakes said:
I have what looks like that same cheapy charge controller on my backhoe in the battery box sitting on the batteries with a 5amp fuse. I have no switch or anything that disconnects it from batteries when the engine is running. No issues. I only use it to top off the batteries with a 100w panel because the hoe just sits there most of the time.
Click to expand...
I didn't test, but it had a warning like 8 places on the 1 page wiring diagram, didn't want to mess with it. It wasn't a big deal to add the switch and I've not come across a time I wanted to run solar and the shore charger, so it's not been a big deal
 
Doesn’t the shore power send power to the batteries? Maybe it can’t control two power sources and they don’t want to overpower your batteries.
 
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