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TRINDU

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They also came up with and did a 40 page thread on the Ford hub conversion you did.

They're those people.

I'll do an in depth review for the conversion when I'm done. Theres a few little things that tripped me up, but I did change a few things.
 

Grendel

Iron Sharpens Iron
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I'll do an in depth review for the conversion when I'm done. Theres a few little things that tripped me up, but I did change a few things.
Lol, I don't need it... they did it more than 10 + years ago, on that other board.
 

TRINDU

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Both spicer, same part #, should be identical in every way....

20220721_212008.jpg
20220721_211953.jpg
20220721_212538.jpg


The new ones are physically shorter. Which according to my theory should work perfect for me. But still... wtf
 
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TRINDU

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She fixed. Now I need to put the GM rear wheel cylinders in. Then take it to get aligned.

20220724_175909.jpg
 

350TacoZilla

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Congrats on getting it together even after few setbacks. Now that you have done it do you think the full C & knuckle swap is worth it over just the spindle swap style that retains the ram BJ's? I had made my newb thread so I didn't clog yours up with questions like this lol.
 

TRINDU

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I plan do do an in depth write up in the dodge section shortly.

GM "1 Ton" rear wheel cylinders

20220727_174856.jpg


Got passenger set up, getting excited to drive it. Went to do the driver and noticed the hub seal leaking :mad3: Guess I'll drop the cover, do both sides, and figure out what friction modifier a D70 wants along with 85w140 synthetic.

This bastard should make fuel, but its fighting me thr entire way.
 
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TRINDU

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Figured out why its leaking. I've never seen a spindle do this. Guess I'll sand and see what happens

20220730_165525.jpg
 

TRINDU

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That's weird

Imagine the inner/bearing side of the wheel seal all nicked up. Not the rubber, but metal surface. That was the factory seal from '96. No idea how that could've happened.

I could see the outer from outside contamination, but the bearing side... Must've been a bad one from the factory floor. That's union labor for you :homer:
 

TRINDU

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Well. Meh.

The steering is tight and very responsive. Braking chatter and soft pedal kicked my ass on the first test run. Bled it again and triple checked all the hardware. Much better pedal but the rear is locking up and very touchy. Still feel a chatter from the ass.

Truck has NO ABS from factory.

Going to get it aligned. Maybe put the smaller wheel cylinders back in to take away from rear brakes.

Ultimately keep an eye out for a late model disc D70.

Good news is it runs and shifts great.
 

pcorssmit

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what about a load sensing proportioning valve under the bed for the rear brakes?
My '97 had one stock. I recall them being problematic (it's been a long time), I think I ended up just disconnecting it so the rear brakes got full pressure all the time.

Pete
 

TrailTamer

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Put the OEM size wheel cylinder back in… seriously.

I did the same GM wheel cylinder mod and hated it. Problem went away when I put the smaller OE wheel cylinders back in. Rear end still lock up if I want it to even with heavy weight on rear axle while towing.

Don’t bother with D70. Go D80.
 

pcorssmit

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I did the GM wheel cylinders on my '97 way back in the day, it didn't make much of a difference. But what I learned was that they went to a larger bore cylinder from the factory at some point (perhaps '97?), and my original ones were almost as big as the GM ones. Not sure if it matters, but mine was a 2500 with the Dana 80.

Pete
 

Curbkrawler

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The paint is still good minus the coon/cat the climbed up on the hood while it was in a barn. Suggestions on a good buffer and compound. I just rubbed some by hand and took 80% out pretty easy.

20220411_190855.jpg
I recently buffed the paint out on my Grand Wagoneer using a $100 buffer from Amazon, a larger Dewalt buffer, and 3M 3 step buffing compound with great results.


Before:
Wag Paint 1.jpg


After:
Wag Paint 2.jpg



Wag Paint 3.jpg
 

TRINDU

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Don’t bother with D70. Go D80.

Never had a problem with a 70. Had an 80 eat a pinion bearing before.

$100 + $50 in fuel and I have my self a boat anchor. D70, 3.54, power lock. I'll spend a few hundred on the rebuild. Was in a truck that was stripped/vandalized sitting in a field in BFE. Very nice redneck couple who knew the code to the gate/lock... but wasnt their field or truck...

20220805_184420.jpg


~71.5" WMS
 
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TRINDU

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Looks like ~$600 for new everything to rebuild it. Seals, bearings, calipers, rotors, pads, lines, ebrake cables, backing plates. Hopefully recoupe some selling the one that's in it.

It accumulated a little rust from sitting in sandy loam, but nothing a wire wheel and paint wont fix. Has OEM rotors, fluid looks decent, so shouldn't have excessive miles on it.

A/C sorta worked when I got it. Apparently theres a leak and now the compressor just cycles. Just going to replace everything.

Rockauto is going to love this next $1000 order.
 
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Or just use an adjustable prop valve on the rear brake line to calm them down some.
this

i need one for my tow rig, big ass dually drums on my 14b with all new parts lock up my rear tires too easy. adjust them out and a few weeks later theyre back where they were
 

TRINDU

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Went back down the 15/16th cylinders as TrailTamer suggest. Braking is back to even, not trying to lock up the rears immediately. Still a slight shudder, but not near as bad as it was.

However... as the old man was helping me bleed it and get a second opinion, he noticed the pedal would fall and not stay firm. Thinking the master may be bad.

Holding off on the disc 70 for now. It needs everything brakes related, and I just dont feel like spending that money.
 
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