The MRT ones would. I have personally run a flat in whiskey throttle mode for 50ish miles one night. Rim survived, the tire did not.Yes. But not for this market. I'm not convinced CF will make it beyond the first rock impact.
The MRT ones would. I have personally run a flat in whiskey throttle mode for 50ish miles one night. Rim survived, the tire did not.Yes. But not for this market. I'm not convinced CF will make it beyond the first rock impact.
but needed a vacuum table to make wheels?
If it would be possible to make that happen where the tire keeps entire contact patch on the ground that definitely sounds better, bead locks or not. more power put to the ground.Looks to me that you need more camber gain and to quit running on the sidewall. When you quit trying to drive on the sidewall you don't need beadlocks.
Looks to me that you need more camber gain and to quit running on the sidewall. When you quit trying to drive on the sidewall you don't need beadlocks.
Maybe wide tires with beadlocks on rear and leave the lighter fronts? Best of both worlds?Trust me, I know but I can't change the factory suspension mounting locations. Damn rules... Cambering in the tires more than they are now results in shitty forward bite due to the decreased contact patch when the car is not pitched over. I can get it to turn hard enough to bicycle it on those sidewalls so do I really need more traction in that situation?
I'm not really a fan of these narrow Hoosiers and will have the wide tires and beadlocks back on the car for the next round.
Maybe wide tires with beadlocks on rear and leave the lighter fronts? Best of both worlds?
Can you update your suspension pick up points for thatAnother thing of note that's been going on in the background.... I've been contact with a race engine builder up in Missouri and talked with him several times in the last few weeks about getting a big boy motor built over the winter to run in the Pro N/A class next year. If what he is telling me is anywhere near accurate (He's sort of famous in the race engine world so I can't not believe him) there is no doubt in my mind I'll be a front runner in that class next season.
Can you update your suspension pick up points for that
yes more corner speed you can carry is better.Trust me, I know but I can't change the factory suspension mounting locations. Damn rules... Cambering in the tires more than they are now results in shitty forward bite due to the decreased contact patch when the car is not pitched over. I can get it to turn hard enough to bicycle it on those sidewalls so do I really need more traction in that situation?
I'm not really a fan of these narrow Hoosiers and will have the wide tires and beadlocks back on the car for the next round.
Slow in, fast out. The Porsche mantra.yes more corner speed you can carry is better.
I understand on the suspension points.
Back in the 90’s you could order just the centers from this type of wheel. Might still be able to, Real is sweet company.
That’s awesome news ( love Real Wheel as a company). I’m not familiar with what’s light. Is 14 pounds pretty good?I spoke with the guys at Real Wheel. They can make me a set of their Pro 6 wheels with the 4x137 bolt pattern I need in any size I want. 15x8's are 14lbs each with beadlock and bolts. They are extremely pricey though...... I'm going to have to think about it more before I pull the trigger on that purchase.
I’m not familiar with what’s light. Is 14 pounds pretty good?
Vintage Centers would appear to be a touch lighter? No?
Is that RS1 just faster enough to get a hole shot on you and then you can’t quite get around him after that?