I actually ordered the wheels with the optional mud covers. Last couple of races I've came in after the heat with a few pounds of mud stuck in the back rims.
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- Thread starter SLOWPOKE693
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I actually ordered the wheels with the optional mud covers. Last couple of races I've came in after the heat with a few pounds of mud stuck in the back rims.
I don’t see why not. Carbon shell with an aluminum lock ring would probably be tough as hell on a sub 2000 # vehicle.
Dads mud/sand dragster weighed 2000 ish pounds packing a 2500 + hp blown top alcohol engine. It would go from zero to 100 in less than 2 seconds putting all that hp to the ground through carbon fiber wheels. Never had a problem with the wheels failing. He broke some crashing it but any wheel would crater from hitting a retaining wall at 80 mph.
Roc Doc
2A SNBI
That first video you posted shows how well that suspension is working for you! Just sucks up the jumps like a champ.It's been a while since I updated the thread but I'm still at it. Next race is in 3 weeks and I want to win.......
Ordered up a set of Keizer Racing Wheels 15x8 beadlocks to take some unsprung and rotating weight out of the car. New wheels are 13.5lbs each vs my almost 19lb wheels that are currently on it. Taking 22lbs of unsprung and rotating weight out of the car should help out a decent amount.
And if your going to go retard, may as well go full retard, so I ordered up a set of titanium lug nuts also.
When Porsche went to Al wheels in the 1960's they had Fuchs forge them to their specs, so right from the dealership you had the strongest, lightest wheels you could get, AND they came with Al lugnuts. Guys would come into the shop I worked at and want to buy BBS or Weds or whatever, and I'd usually say, "You sure you want to do that", and the answer would usually be "I like the looks of the BBS". OK, poser.
The sports car guys say that unsprung/rotating weight is like 7x as important as losing weight other places.
When Scott Ward went to forged Racelines on his TTF built 4400, he had to retune the shocks due to the lighter weight of the forged wheels vs cast wheels. You should see some improvement with this setup.
Roc Doc
2A SNBI
Also, have you considered a portable pressure washing system. A poly 55g barrel in the bed of the truck for getting the mud off between heats?
I use the snow brush/scraper I brought with me from New England for that purpose. Works pretty freakin well I must say and nobody here knows WTF it is.
Roc Doc
2A SNBI
I use the snow brush/scraper I brought with me from New England for that purpose. Works pretty freakin well I must say and nobody here knows WTF it is.
The factory burnt down. When they rebuilt they didn't start making those agian due to the start up costs involved.
Hyper got bought by Weld and they stopped making a lot of different rims.
I can make molds, I just need a big ass injection press....
If I remember correctly the 15X7 MRT single bead lock wheels I had on my Toyota were 14#'s. Made a very noticeable difference. They were kind of flexy though. Made it feel like you were running about 10PSI less than you were.
I guess carbon fiber isn't that light when you factor in the amount of it needed to be stiff enough for a wheel shell. My new wheels are 15x8 with a single beadlock and are 13.5lbs each.
Went to Smileys Racing Products yesterday and picked up 4 new Hoosiers for the car in anticipation of the new wheels. They were out of the "Turbo SxS" tires in the M500 compound and said they are on backorder with no ship date...... They had the S500 compound in stock but those tires are soft and are only good for 1 race before they are junk. I'm not rich and can't be throwing $560 down for a set of tires every race so I decided to go a different route and picked up 4 of the "P1000 SxS" tires in the M500 compound.
The P1000 Hoosiers are marked the same size as the Turbo SxS Hoosiers at 27.5 x 8 x 15, but the section width is slightly different. The "Turbo" tires have 8 tread blocks across the width of the tire and a section width of 11.3" where as the P1000's only have 7 and a section width of 10.4". I have no idea if running a slightly narrower tire is going to be a positive or negative experience but I guess I'm going to find out.
Picture comparing the two sizes....
The P1000 Hoosiers are marked the same size as the Turbo SxS Hoosiers at 27.5 x 8 x 15, but the section width is slightly different. The "Turbo" tires have 8 tread blocks across the width of the tire and a section width of 11.3" where as the P1000's only have 7 and a section width of 10.4". I have no idea if running a slightly narrower tire is going to be a positive or negative experience but I guess I'm going to find out.
Picture comparing the two sizes....
I mounted them up on 4 factory 15 x 8 rear wheels so I could start grooving them. This is the pattern I'm going with for the rear. I still need to do the outer and inner tread blocks before it's finished, but you get the idea.....
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I'm also going to guess that the P1000 tires are probably lighter than the Turbo tires seeing as they are about 1" narrower. Lighter is better right?
Another thing I considered when buying these is ground pressure. With the narrower tire I should have more PSI on the contact patch vs the old set of wider tires. Maybe that will give me more traction to help get me off the starting line better?
Another thing I considered when buying these is ground pressure. With the narrower tire I should have more PSI on the contact patch vs the old set of wider tires. Maybe that will give me more traction to help get me off the starting line better?
More random stuff..... A guy from HondaSxS.com hooked me up with a couple pairs of factory front lower control arms last week. I posted up on that site asking to buy spares from anybody that switched to high clearance arms and this dude was nice enough to donate them to the cause. Thanks @PaulF...
Hopefully I'll never need these!!
Hopefully I'll never need these!!
vetteboy79
It's bent. #ttb
Why straight across instead of staggered like the previous set?
Trying something new that I see alot of the Pro class cars running. It will either be better or suck for my driving style. Who knows?
RR tire finished...
crispins
FJB
love it all so much, I wish they had that here.
Looks like the most fun ever!
Looks like the most fun ever!
Another thing I was thinking.... Arrows out when you want less side bite, arrows in when you want more. This is the rear I'm talking about but I'm sure it applies out front also.
How much time do you spend drifting? And when you are, is drifting the desired affect?
In the big car we HAVE to sacrifice a little forward traction to get it to the slide in the corners to keep it from hooking and flipping. My car drifts good but I’m not running groomed track with sticky tires.
In the big car we HAVE to sacrifice a little forward traction to get it to the slide in the corners to keep it from hooking and flipping. My car drifts good but I’m not running groomed track with sticky tires.
I don't know if it's the desired affect but it definitely works for my driving style. The guys I race with compliment me on how fast I go into and through corners and ask me what my secret is.... I tell them it's snow. Years and years of driving around in a RWD car in the snow.
This is an example of what the Pro N/A class guys do to their Hoosiers and just so happens to be my shock tuners personal car. .....
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Yep, the go and turn cuts. When we race muddy short course stuff we do the same. Radial cuts on the front tires to help steer, cross cuts on the rear for thrust.
Do you guys run short course tires on the big car when you go to that type of race or are you grooving normal offroad tires?
Grooving the M/T off-road tires, I’ll see if I have any pictures. We’ve had trouble in the past with changing conditions meaning changing traction where a 4wd has issues. At Glen Helen raceway and Miller motorsports park two years in a row the race started out a slip n slide. But when the track firmed up and went hero dirt status mid race, the car went from drifting to sticking and rolling.
hard to plan ahead when you drift a corner at wide open throttle and two laps later same corner it sticks like glue and you end up upside down before realizing what happened.
I ended up adding another set of grooves to the rear tires directly in the center on every other block...
If it were me, I’d take a 3/4” blade you have for your groover and make the outer two zig zag a straight line all the way round connecting them back themselves. Think rib tractor front tire, the straight wide grooves helps you be able to steer when it’s muddy. The ribbed tractor tire is made that way so 2wd’s can steer in the soft slop. We do that on the big car tires.
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In the interest of keeping things exciting I don’t have any pictures that aren’t action pictures. Best I can do is the Toyo’s we used to run. We did the same cut to the Falken tires we used to run as well. The Patagonia’s we run now already have to wide radial depressions so we only have to do the cross cuts like you did to your rears.
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And to be clear, I’m thinking of taking the points of the raised blocks that are pointing towards each other, not just taking all the material out of one set of tread blocks, so taking equally the tips of the points off both sides of the depression. Make sense?
edit: stupid auto correcting of the board won’t let me put the symbols where they need to be. 🌈
edit: stupid auto correcting of the board won’t let me put the symbols where they need to be. 🌈
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