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Slow down hydr cylinder?

0ilburner

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2020
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1479
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83
I have a cheap skid steer attachment that uses a hydraulic cylinder, aux hydraulics on the machine throws 100% of the pressure off/on so the ram is engaging more aggressively than I would like. What would be the best way to slow/smooth the cylinder movement?
 
You could add a needle valve, but that would add heat to the system but your not circulating a lot of fluid so it may not be a big deal. or add a proportioning valve, or just plumb in an adjustable relief valve to control the total amount of pressure going to the cylinder.
 
anatram said:
You could add a needle valve, but that would add heat to the system but your not circulating a lot of fluid so it may not be a big deal. or add a proportioning valve, or just plumb in an adjustable relief valve to control the total amount of pressure going to the cylinder.
Click to expand...
By adding a needle valve , wouldn't the extra fluid already bypass to the tank as is?
 
CarterKraft said:
simple fixed orifice/directional flow control

Restrictor | Flow Control | INLINE VALVES | Doering Company

Metro's inline valves, from Doering, include inline check valves, restrictor (throttle) valves and pressure relief valves. These components are available in male/female and female/female designs.
www.doering.com
Click to expand...
^^^^ This

You need an orifice to slow the flow. Drill and tap inside one of the fittings and install a pipe plug. Drill a small hole in the pipe plug to be the orifice. Increase the hole size if you want more flow.
 
665.0coupe said:
^^^^ This

You need an orifice to slow the flow. Drill and tap inside one of the fittings and install a pipe plug. Drill a small hole in the pipe plug to be the orifice. Increase the hole size if you want more flow.
Click to expand...
If one direction is too fast then a checked orifice would slow that function but not the reverse function, in/out, out/in etc.

But threading a hose or fitting and installing drilled set screws is pretty easy.
 
Using a flow restrictor with the one-way check valve, you want the flow restrictor on the outlet side of the flow so the cylinder stays under full pressure. Otherwise the motion will likely be rough and jerky.
 
So this cylinder only moves a boom up or down every now & then so not a lot of jogging. But I think I need the flow regulated both ways. Low flow machine aux. so I think 20gpm max?
That would mean 2x $100 valves? For an attachment I use a couple of times a year? Oof.
I did try idling down and it slowed a bit but not really much.
 
665.0coupe said:
^^^^ This

You need an orifice to slow the flow. Drill and tap inside one of the fittings and install a pipe plug. Drill a small hole in the pipe plug to be the orifice. Increase the hole size if you want more flow.
Click to expand...
They make orifices for hydraulics that are built into a 1/2" swivel fitting...

1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" NPT Female Swivel Straight 1404-08-08 Adapter with 1/32" Restricted Orifice | NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

1/2 NPT Male x 1/2 NPT Female Swivel Straight 1404-08-08 Adapter with 1/32 Restricted Orifice, NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight, 1/2 NPT Male x1404-08-08,
www.surpluscenter.com

orifice.png
 
billybob_81067 said:
They make orifices for hydraulics that are built into a 1/2" swivel fitting...

1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" NPT Female Swivel Straight 1404-08-08 Adapter with 1/32" Restricted Orifice | NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

1/2 NPT Male x 1/2 NPT Female Swivel Straight 1404-08-08 Adapter with 1/32 Restricted Orifice, NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight, 1/2 NPT Male x1404-08-08,
www.surpluscenter.com
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know they do. I would use one if I had one, but I have pipe taps and misc plugs and fittings in my stash of stuff. 30 minutes and it would be back up and running.
 
Couldn't you just weld a fitting closed, then drill a little hole?

What is the application? Small hole restriction makes heat. A lot of heat I think, so not for continuous high flow stuff, but I'm sure it'll be fine, probably.
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Couldn't you just weld a fitting closed, then drill a little hole?

What is the application? Small hole restriction makes heat. A lot of heat I think, so not for continuous high flow stuff, but I'm sure it'll be fine, probably.
Click to expand...
Thread to nearest bolt size and put in drilled set screw.
 
1oddtech said:
What type of fittings are on the cylinder? JIC, ORFS, or NPT?
Click to expand...
This.


An orifice for what you’re doing is an industry standard.

No heat at the fitting because of the JT effect. The normal heat at the hydraulic systems relief or bypass.

Start with a 1/8” hole and experiment until you like it.
 
I've never seen a "modern" (aka 90s and newer) skid steer that doesn't have the ability to feather the auxiliary flow.
What sort of machine is it?
 
AKnate said:
I've never seen a "modern" (aka 90s and newer) skid steer that doesn't have the ability to feather the auxiliary flow.
What sort of machine is it?
Click to expand...
Very common to have bang bang auxiliary hydros on the cat, so id ass9other brands are similar.

On the CATs you change the joystick handle to a pwm handle and change the configuration in the ECM, a pretty easy deal.
 
my tilt bucket has aduster knobs right at the hose connection you can tune the flow with.
 
CarterKraft said:
Very common to have bang bang auxiliary hydros on the cat, so id ass9other brands are similar.

On the CATs you change the joystick handle to a pwm handle and change the configuration in the ECM, a pretty easy deal.
Click to expand...
The Bobcat, Deere, Cat, and Tak machines I've run aren't like that. Never run a CAT though.

Even the auxiliary auxiliary on my Bobcat to run a 2nd and 3rd function are variable flow.
 
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