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plym49v2 said:
Skin the wood with flat strap. Best of both worlds.
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1/8 AR500 and just hammer it flat when it's time for a new 2x4 crossed my mind but I was kind of hoping to think up something that was just a couple east to access bolts per side and on and go type of deal. Maybe I'll figure out a way to use 2" black pipe.
 
Use a hardwood like oak instead of cheap ass pine or Doug fir? Angle steel welded to the standoffs or whatever and some short lag bolts down through the angle into the top of the ok?

I kind of can’t believe this is getting some much serious thought.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You should have 0.005 clearance right? Or are you assuming the 1.75 is going to be 0.004 oversized?

I've had good luck sliding stuff inside 120 wall as it's 0.005 shy of 1/8" thick. Sliding stuff into 250 on the other hand was a nightmare.
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I think it was me who jabbered about a .001" gap. I mistakenly added a zero and even that was still being stupid because that wouldn't be the gap, but how oversize the ID of the DOM would be compared to the OD of the alum rod...................................so I got nothing right:grinpimp:​..................swing and a miss.



dnsfailure said:
On McMaster, the tolerance for the standard rods is: -0.006" to 0.006"

and the tolerance for the "tight tolerance" rods is: -0.001" to 0.001". although it's 3x the cost for the tight tolerance rods.

I would THINK that +-.006" would work, but I guess it depends on the tolerance of the DOM tube as well. Might not hurt to heat up the tubing

I'm curious how it goes, Kevin. Definitely report back :smokin:
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Do you think heat will work? The alum will be a rather effective heat sink shrinking the DOM and expanding the alum I would think. Does this make any sense? If i had a freezer big enough to take the alum rod, it might help buy some extra time, but my chest freezer is nowhere large enough to swallow a 6' rod (my ex had a pussy that could cryo that fucker, but that would be a pretty strange pone call after 7 years).




Skiman26 said:
There is a company that puts aluminum in their lower control arms
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Wasn't that the busted knuckle folks? I thought I remember them having some big links stuffed with alum




Tracking number says the alum is out for delivery today.
 
Jeffh555 said:
For something different, I thing the Goatbuilt aluminum rocker bars are a pretty sweet idea. The solid steel slugs weld onto the chassis and then the aluminum slider bolts to that. It doesn't seem like a viable option for a full bodied rig, but if it does fit, it's pretty cool.

https://goatbuilt.com/product/tj-lj-...m-rocker-bars/
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Cool idea, but Aluminum just doesn't have the surface hardness to be a good slider or skid material in my opinion. I have wheeled with some guys with aluminum skids and it might as well have been coated in Liquid Nails :flipoff2: Of course the rocks I tend to wheel on are sharp and hard.

In my opinion AR steel or UHMMW PE is the way to go on "wear points." In lieu of those options, use the strongest and hardest steel you can get ahold of. I can't believe some of you guys are seriously discussing wood :laughing: GTFO here with that!

arse_sidewards said:
Yeah it would definitively dig in but I don't really get into many situations where I want to slide on a slider. I often find myself wanting to pivot around something without fucking up a door and wood would be fine for that. Most rocks around here are pretty smooth and I'm crawling over a down tree as often as a rock so I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually would make in practice. Wouldn't be hard to replace with steel if they don't work.
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I intentionally slide on my sliders all the time, but my rig is built relatively low.
 
gt1guy said:
Do you think heat will work? The alum will be a rather effective heat sink shrinking the DOM and expanding the alum I would think. Does this make any sense? If i had a freezer big enough to take the alum rod, it might help buy some extra time, but my chest freezer is nowhere large enough to swallow a 6' rod (my ex had a pussy that could cryo that fucker, but that would be a pretty strange pone call after 7 years).
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I have no idea, but if it doesn't fit at room temperature it probably wouldn't hurt to try torching the tube a bit to see if it helps.

Or if you know someone that has one of those belt polishers for sanding around tube somewhat, you could sand down the aluminum rod. Or figure out another way to sand it down.

one of these:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...d_01n_900x.jpg
 
dnsfailure said:
I have no idea, but if it doesn't fit at room temperature it probably wouldn't hurt to try torching the tube a bit to see if it helps.

Or if you know someone that has one of those belt polishers for sanding around tube somewhat, you could sand down the aluminum rod. Or figure out another way to sand it down.

one of these:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...d_01n_900x.jpg
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Oh how I wish I had one of those. Expensive as hell too and I'm not sure why.

Closest I have is a Dynabrade DYNAFILE II. It has zero wraparound like what you posted and only a max belt width of 3/4". But for what it is I love it.
 
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dnsfailure said:
I have no idea, but if it doesn't fit at room temperature it probably wouldn't hurt to try torching the tube a bit to see if it helps.

Or if you know someone that has one of those belt polishers for sanding around tube somewhat, you could sand down the aluminum rod. Or figure out another way to sand it down.

one of these:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/00...d_01n_900x.jpg
Click to expand...

I bought a cheap ryobi 3x18”? Belt sander to polish some tubing years ago. Flip the belt inside out and slip it over the drive wheel. If you are not careful the belt will wear out the drive wheel in a hurry but it works well in a pinch and is cheap.
 
Happy to report getting 1.75" alum round bar into 2" x .120" wall DOM was a complete non-issue. All I did was what anyone would do. Knocked off the sharp edge of the DOM ID with a half round file, put a little chamfer on the edge of the alum and then pushed a rag with acetone through the DOM to clean it out. Alum just slid right in. Had to give it a little twist a couple time but, overall it went in with one hand. No wiggle at all once installed.

DSC01187.JPG



I always save the plugs from using hole saws, so I already have caps for the ends.
 
A little late to the party but mine are 2x4 .120 wall. I went back in the archives and couldn't really pinpoint a date when I installed them but I did find one from back in 2008. So that's at least 12 solid years of abuse. Some deflection but I figures that's ok for the time they've been on there.

received_282309295988160.jpeg
 
gt1guy said:
Happy to report getting 1.75" alum round bar into 2" x .120" wall DOM was a complete non-issue. All I did was what anyone would do. Knocked off the sharp edge of the DOM ID with a half round file, put a little chamfer on the edge of the alum and then pushed a rag with acetone through the DOM to clean it out. Alum just slid right in. Had to give it a little twist a couple time but, overall it went in with one hand. No wiggle at all once installed.




I always save the plugs from using hole saws, so I already have caps for the ends.
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Nice! Thanks for posting back :)
 
My main structure is 2x2-3/16” and i did 1.75 .120 wall for outer rail and kick out.
 
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