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Sidedick sport build

I cant like this enough. The early kicks look so much better, IMO. Adding a 2.3l make them much better.

I look forward to your EDSES kit. Please document it and how you go about it.
 
Welp, sliders are almost done, spool is in, 31s installed, and el cheapo DB fab™ lift is on. Just gotta button everything up for it's first trip out this weekend.
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It did pretty well it's first outing at rocks and valleys. Swapped back to the smaller tires because I ran out of time to make bumpstop spacers for the rear. The 31s just rubbed too much on the test ride. Only got stuck once when I high centered. I did smack a tree head on pretty fast while attempting a icy hill climb. Luckily just dented the bumper and no major damage. :laughing:
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Well, I cut the front of the frame off.

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ordered some brackets and whatnot, and picked up some 2x4 box steel. Time to rebuild with Toyota axles. I also picked up some newer 4runner wheels for the swap.

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So my wheel hub bore was 0.5mm too small for my hubs, so onto the mill they went for fixerating
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So what is your plan for the tcase?

Plan is to machine up some slip yoke eliminators and run a samurai front shaft and a Toyota double cardain rear, and 4.24 gears. Why, any suggestions on what route I should take?
 
Plan is to machine up some slip yoke eliminators and run a samurai front shaft and a Toyota double cardain rear, and 4.24 gears. Why, any suggestions on what route I should take?

Was just curious. I hate that they are slip yoke front and rear.

Also, for me, ~4:1 wasn't enough. And 1:1 high kinda sucks, but maybe not terrible with your motor.
 
Got the front axle stripped down and a diff cover made. Next is getting it under the sidekick and figuring out where I want to place it.
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Much more gooder ground down. Also (not pictured obviously) got the high steer arms thrown on last night. Gotta get the IFS hubs on and get to the mockup on the front suspension
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Rolled the axle under to start measuring for links. It's going to be TIGHT. It tucks pretty good at full bump. Definitely need some small wheel spacers to make these wheels work even with the IFS hubs, damn sport frame is too wide.
Also these lead times on parts sucks, I've been waiting a month so far for my locked off-road coilovers and bumps. Hopefully Riley can get caught up soon and get to my crap :laughing:
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got a winch mount done and made a radiator support and skid. Got to use my dimple dies for the first time. The winch fairlead will be integrated in the bolt on bumper.
 
Got some links made up, went with 1.25 2 5/8 johnny joints for longevity. Now to figure out how to package the steering and Track bar.
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Chopped the front half of the frame a little more, looks much better than the square edge from the factory. I really should have just built a new frame entirely :laughing:
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Then we chopped the back half off and bobbed the body to the floor
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have to build a new back half and make some new rear body structure and body mounts. Shouldn't be too bad.
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also welded the truss on the rear axle, have to make a perch for the upper link mounts to mount to and make a skid for the lower half of the diff cover. Wish I could make progress a little quicker but my spinal issues are really holding me back these days. The goal was to hit the Rubicon this September, but that is slipping away quickly. Thankfully my brother has been around on the weekends to help me get shit done.
 
Have you looked into a set of flat steering arms?

I think fror offers them, plus they're keyed onto the knuckle so no more broken or loose studs.
 
Have you looked into a set of flat steering arms?

I think fror offers them, plus they're keyed onto the knuckle so no more broken or loose studs.
I have looked into them, and will probably upgrade to them later. Just trying to spend my money wisely at the moment.
 
You have to build your suspension around the steering. Now is when you need to buy them. Changing your steering geometry later is a bad idea.
 
You have to build your suspension around the steering. Now is when you need to buy them. Changing your steering geometry later is a bad idea.
Regardless I can't really go any lower with the tie rod the way I have it set up, as the tie rod will hit the diff cover. so I'd have to go with the standard arms over the flat ones anyway. I was also considering welding plates to the knuckles and making these steering arms double sheer with a lower portion that bolts into the knuckle.
 
Regardless I can't really go any lower with the tie rod the way I have it set up, as the tie rod will hit the diff cover. so I'd have to go with the standard arms over the flat ones anyway. I was also considering welding plates to the knuckles and making these steering arms double sheer with a lower portion that bolts into the knuckle.
Gotcha, can you notch the diff a little bit? Or does lower not gain you anything?
 
Wouldn't do much unless I wanted to do a bunch of fender cutting for minimal gains.
 
Added a top truss on the axle for the upper link brackets to land, and started on the rear frame section
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I definitely welded those tie down brackets on upside down... Fuck :laughing:
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welp it's fixed now
 
Made some diff armor today
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then welded up the new rear frame section
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Then started to try and figure out what I'm doing with the steering box
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Not a ton of progress, got some frame plates made up for the front and some big 1/4" gussets for the rear frame. Going to land the upper links on the gussets on the rear frame.
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Got the steering box mounted up, drag link made, ect. Packaging a panhard bar is going to be a absolute bitch with the clearances I have, but I'll figure it out. Also got all the brackets tacked on the rear axle and starting to figure out rear suspension geometry. The M18 Milwaukee mag drill works absolutely fucking fantastic, by the way.
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What should be full droop
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Should be full bump
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And ride height (ish)
 
Got something today I never thought I would come across. A track/kick doubler to Toyota gear drive t-case setup. Paid 400 bucks for the whole thing. I couldnt be more excited, solves driveshaft issues, stronger, and a better crawl ratio.
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Got the rear 4 link set up. Links ended up shorter than I wanted, but packaging is kinda tight with trying not to go through the floor.
 
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