Shotening Driveshaft Advice

[LScout800]

WIth the doubler install in my scout I need to shorten the rear shaft, and legnthen the front one. I know I have to keep the joints in phase with one another, and that in order to keep the shaft straight I need to toss it up in a lathe and spin it with a micrometer on it in order to get it straight before welding. Any other advice or am I better off just taking it to the local guy for a couple hundred bucks? Am I going to be able to get it close enough to keep it from getting vibrations down the freeway?

 

[posford]

I cut and shortened my front driveshaft on the garage floor and rewelded with a stick, has been fine for a front, I have driven it in 4wd on the road in the winter without a problem.

I had my rear one built, but I dont see why you can't make it come out nice if you use a lathe and pay attention.

I've heard of people home balancing a driveshaft by putting a hose clamp on it and tune it by rotating on the DS until smooths out.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Do the front one yourself and see how it goes.

I would probly have a shop do the rear though, since you are talking about freeway stuff.

 

[arse_sidewards]

As long as you don't half ass it it will be fine. Worst case you have to fuck around later balancing it but that's easy so long as the shaft is straight enough.

 

[mjlogan88]

I've had success with installing it in the vehicle and using a dial indicator to measure runout. Usually the tube fits tight enough on the yoke so you can chase the runout by tapping it with a hammer before you tack it. I've done 2 that were good at freeway speeds with this method, got the runout under .010 after welding.

 

[Weasel]

Local shop want a bunch of money to do the front in my truck, and have a habit of saying the whole shaft needs to be rebuild. So I cut it, turned down a spud piece in the lathe that pounded in each side, added 2 plug welds on each side and welded the spud in the center, ground down, sanded smooth and paint. Then had the shop balance it.

 

[chaplinfj60]

I've had success with installing it in the vehicle and using a dial indicator to measure runout. Usually the tube fits tight enough on the yoke so you can chase the runout by tapping it with a hammer before you tack it. I've done 2 that were good at freeway speeds with this method, got the runout under .010 after welding.

this way works well. and you have a lathe and can true up pieces real nice. you got this