What's new

Shortened 2001 Silverado w/ 40s, Doubler, 14FF, & D60

Ah gotcha. Yes, I agree that I can optimize everything if I go with blank arms. I do like that I can tie the ARTEC arms into the factory hole for more rigidity, too.

And, for what it's worth - I save a few pounds since their arms are aluminum, too. With my goal to lighten the truck up, this is a no brainer I think.
 
C&C Dually VAN axle is what I meant. The GMT800s used the 11.5 for the dually axles in the trucks.

NOW, the derail is over :flipoff2:

Ok, trying to derail threads less, may as well continue here.

Why won't a standard gmt drw 14b work again? They're not too hard to find.

I'd think you could swap your disc stuff over.
 
Regular DRW axle are either drum brake 10.5 or they're an AAM 11.5 (unless its a VAN C&C Dually axle, which could either be a Dana 70 or 14b).

I suppose it would be possible to swap over my disc brakes, I'd just need to weld on a custom flange. Food for thought, that's for sure. Since I'm lazy - what are the WMS measurements on a DRW axle?
 
Dang man. I'm not sure if they used the 14b in 2008, but I'll reach out to them for sure.

And I bet the guy selling that truck would let the axle go cheap. I'll reach out to both.
 
No idea what they used, vans seem to be a crap shoot. A quick Pic underneath would obviously help you out.

I believe that gmt400 should be the ~72" wms ribbed 14b that you want, just minus disc brakes.

I will say, I used ~01 rear rotors on a ~94 14b and the slid right on with the correct hub pilot. The only hard-ish part would be keeping the drum in hat parking brake if you care about that.
 
The one I have should be pulled out from under the van this summer. I have every intention of scrapping that van. I’ve got a guy that’s going to buy the whole box. The axle, leaves, steering box, and shocks are all coming off. I’m not sure yet what else. Computer was sold, wiring hacked up for what I needed. Someone was asking about the doors. It’s a 3.73 with drums and I think it was gov bomb.
 
No idea what they used, vans seem to be a crap shoot. A quick Pic underneath would obviously help you out.

I believe that gmt400 should be the ~72" wms ribbed 14b that you want, just minus disc brakes.

I will say, I used ~01 rear rotors on a ~94 14b and the slid right on with the correct hub pilot. The only hard-ish part would be keeping the drum in hat parking brake if you care about that.
I do care a little bit about the parking brake, but if the caliper brackets work, then the parking brake should also work, it's entirely supported by the backing plates.
The one I have should be pulled out from under the van this summer. I have every intention of scrapping that van. I’ve got a guy that’s going to buy the whole box. The axle, leaves, steering box, and shocks are all coming off. I’m not sure yet what else. Computer was sold, wiring hacked up for what I needed. Someone was asking about the doors. It’s a 3.73 with drums and I think it was gov bomb.
Interesting! Any idea what the WMS measurement is? Yours is an older van cutaway dually right? Is it a 14b? If so I can swap in my entire current gear set.
 
It’s a 99 cutaway van, ribbed 14 bolt, srw. I haven’t looked anytime recently, but it is the wide version, whatever that wms is. Drums.
 
I do care a little bit about the parking brake, but if the caliper brackets work, then the parking brake should also work, it's entirely supported by the backing plates.

Interesting! Any idea what the WMS measurement is? Yours is an older van cutaway dually right? Is it a 14b? If so I can swap in my entire current gear set.

Well, we're just using the common D44 calipers and whatever bracket. So no parking brake.

It's not going to be bolt up, but looks very possible.

 
Works for me. I know the exact dimensions of that weld-on adapter plate, so it shouldn't be hard to replicate. It's just a bigger project than disassembling and reassembling.
 
03 up vans have 14bolt with disc brakes. just have to specify 10.5 ring gear single wheel when looking for one. the 2000 up 2500 silverados have the disk brake 14b also, 68" wms on them.
 
Isn't the Dana 70 that comes in the vans also a 10.5" ring gear?

I have the exact axle you're describing from the silverado in my truck, which is why it has the wheel spacers to match the track width of my front axle (or similar tire stick-out at least).
 
I missed the part where you were trying to get rid of spacers. I used a single wheel rear 14b out of a 2015 van in my buddies square crewcab, I think it was around 70" width.
 
There are. But I've been prepping for a cross-country move, so I haven't had much time to focus on social media.

Quick update - fuel tank started leaking again (this time faster), so I bumped the priority of the 5052 aluminum tank I had designed up.

MGrohe cut the aluminum on his plasma table for me.
m1Lmd8UVrhCUPXIcHUG5VSJBhA=w714-h947-no?authuser=0.jpg


Bent at work.
1661953513051.png


Test fit with Gorilla tape.
1661953562797.png


And went to visit my buddy Bray_D to TIG it up. He did amazing. Check out Limitless Fabrication for your Fabrication needs if you're in/around central Illinois.
1661953616718.png


We pressure tested it with soapy water and found 3 tiny pinholes. Re-welded them and tested again with no issues. To be safe, I also filled the tank with water and left it over the weekend to be sure.
1661953700454.png


We got a tiny bit of warpage on the top surface because I had Bray weld in some threaded inserts for the fuel pump mount, but overall it came out great. The standoffs on the side are also threaded and are for a heat shield because the exhaust is right near the tank.
1661953888528.png


I made a cradle to hold the top of the tank from angle iron. The bottom is still supported by the same straps as the old tank.
uNw2pTjs2KHJxhfYD7f73kj4A=w1258-h947-no?authuser=0.jpg


You can see the heat shield here. When I redo the exhaust, I'll bend the shield in half to protect the filler neck from the heat, as well.
1661953974763.png


I filled it up last night and aside from the internal vent hose coming loose it seemed to fill up smoothly (aftermarket tanks are tricky when they have long filler necks, I've found). Took just under 34 gallons, which is a solid 5 more than the old tank. It doesn't hang any lower than the old tank either (so the skid plate still fits). I need to reinstall the skid still.
 
My rear axle is still slightly bent. I sourced a GMT400 dually axle which ended up having 0.5" thick tubes (I checked by drilling a small hole). I plan to move the GMT800 brakes over to it before swapping it in, but that will have to wait until after we move. Due to the dimensions of the hub, the rotors will have to be held to the back of the hubs like the drums were, so they'll need a concentric ring (I think), but otherwise I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Here it is torn down to start getting measurements (and also double check this axle is straight). Once I cut off the drum mounting flanges, the GMT800 brake flanges will simply slide on and be clocked to weld.
1661954832591.png
 
Last edited:
so I bumped the priority of the 5052 aluminum tank I had designed up.
man looks good. in the future internal ribbing to minimize sloshing will help with the tank not getting destroyed from fuel hammer.
Due to the dimensions of the hub, the rotors will have to be held to the back of the hubs like the drums were, so they'll need a concentric ring (I think), but otherwise I don't see why it wouldn't work.
can you open up the ID of the rotor and turn down the OD of the hub to make it slip on?
 
man looks good. in the future internal ribbing to minimize sloshing will help with the tank not getting destroyed from fuel hammer.

can you open up the ID of the rotor and turn down the OD of the hub to make it slip on?
I didn't think about reducing the sloshing because I never had issues with the old tank. Now that you mention fuel hammer I'm sure that contributed to the old tanks demise. Fortunately this one is pretty beefy.

As for the dimensions of the rotor/hub, if it were that simple I'd do that. But it's the depth of the hub that is the issue. There wouldn't be clearance for the parking brake components.
Does the cross country move mean the garage project is over?
Yes, unfortunately.
 
I don't see why the rotors won't slip on? Are the dually hubs a different OD than srw?

Edit:. Now I'm even more lost, wouldn't the drw hubs have more clearance on the backside than the srw?
 
As for the dimensions of the rotor/hub, if it were that simple I'd do that. But it's the depth of the hub that is the issue. There wouldn't be clearance for the parking brake components.

makes sense. im scheming a way to get a gmt-800 1/2ton parking brake to play with a spidertrax hub/unit bearing but i getting the backing plate in the right spot is going to be a challenge.
 
I don't see why the rotors won't slip on? Are the dually hubs a different OD than srw?

Edit:. Now I'm even more lost, wouldn't the drw hubs have more clearance on the backside than the srw?
I'm guessing it has more to do with gmt400 vs gmt800.
makes sense. im scheming a way to get a gmt-800 1/2ton parking brake to play with a spidertrax hub/unit bearing but i getting the backing plate in the right spot is going to be a challenge.
Fortunately there's tons of axle tube to play with on mine. Moving the rotor to the back side just in boards the calipers a bit more. I don't see any major issue with it personally.
 
I'm guessing it has more to do with gmt400 vs gmt800.

Fortunately there's tons of axle tube to play with on mine. Moving the rotor to the back side just in boards the calipers a bit more. I don't see any major issue with it personally.

Makes sense.

I don't either, I just really like slip on rotors :laughing:
 
Top Back Refresh