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Shortened 2001 Silverado w/ 40s, Doubler, 14FF, & D60
- Thread starter DMANbluesfreak
- Start date
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I thought the rpm stuff looked sweet, untill I saw video of it breaking on basically nothing.
I'd avoid any silly offset tre's if at possible.
Look at EMF stuff if you can get a hold of anyone.
I'd avoid any silly offset tre's if at possible.
Look at EMF stuff if you can get a hold of anyone.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Maybe they do and they all look similar. RPM doesn't have the replaceable cartridge, do they?
I'll check out EMF - didn't think they had 2.5 ton stuff.
For offset- unfortunately I need some offset. Not much, but with my Tie Rod currently attached to the knuckles without offset rod ends, it scrapes the diff cover (OX locker, so cannot modify). I lose a few degrees of steering each way unfortunately. If I go to a 2" tie rod, even more reason for offset.
In theory I could bend my tie rod, but then I lose the ability to adjust toe without doing one full turn at a time. It also then side loads the threads. An offset TRE puts a lot less side load on the threads than a bent tie rod.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
They make 1.5" shank hiems for mega trucks and also billet replacement gm tre's. Should be able to find something.
Why go 2"?
What about 1.5" heat treated chromo?
No, it needs it's own system. Running 180* coolant through it would be counter productive.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Depends on the use. For mostly long highway grades hot side should be above 180* pretty easily.
Day to day, it might be worse than nothing.
Like I said, I'm not sure a full IC is worth it for 6-7 lbs. I think it's something that people just parrot "it's better" but don't really know.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Because 1.5" with 1.25" threads isn't going to work so well. 1.75" could be made to work if I drill out the ends for a bung, but 2" allows me to weld on bungs straight away and is a lot stronger than 1.5" or 1.75". It only adds 9lbs I believe. Easy.
I don't love the idea of heims on a rig that gets driven in salty weather. All of my heims squeak unless I spray them with teflon spray often (anti wrap and sway bar link), don't want that on my steering if I can help it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I don't see this 1.25" ends as a reasonable trend, I love overkill, but on a regular rig on 40s, 7/8" is pretty beef. I'm also a fan of heat treated chromo over aluminum on anything more than a moonbuggy or SxS. If 2x250 can hold up to years of koh type abuse as a lower link, I'd think 1.5 or 1.75x250 would be great for a tierod.
I get not running hiems, these are grease able and rebuildable. They're in Canada, not so cal, so they're used to moisture and shit also. But again, they make tre's also.
EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components
EMF Rod Ends & Steering Components Evolution Machining & Fabrication Inc
www.emfrodends.com
Browse their site, it's killer stuff. Not cheap, but they are listed in snow pesos. So multiply by ~0.8.
Just noticed they make tre's with straight shanks, pretty cool.
Honestly, I don't really know what the big difference between their hiems and tre's since they're all rebuildable and grease able.
DMANbluesfreak since I got your thread on a tangent with turbos I’ll try to actually add something of substance.
Those EMF rod ends are flat out kickass.
I did the SAS in 2014 and would piss through drag link ends. I mean piss through them....in 3 years I went through 3 sets of DLE’s....and if I actually replaced them when I should have I probably would have gone through 4-5 sets in 3 years.
I put in EMF DLE’s in 2017 and am still on the same set. I tightened up once in about 2019? Admittedly, I don’t grease them enough, I ignore them but they keep on going. They are pricey....BUT I probably spent more in cheap shit then one good set from EMF.
As for the material. I gotta go heat treated chromoly. My buddy has heat treated chromoly lower links on the front and mild steel rears. Same diameter and thickness and bent the rears first trip out and the fronts barely have any bow and have been on for years.
I just gotta figure out where the get heat treated chromoly for my tie rod.
Those EMF rod ends are flat out kickass.
I did the SAS in 2014 and would piss through drag link ends. I mean piss through them....in 3 years I went through 3 sets of DLE’s....and if I actually replaced them when I should have I probably would have gone through 4-5 sets in 3 years.
I put in EMF DLE’s in 2017 and am still on the same set. I tightened up once in about 2019? Admittedly, I don’t grease them enough, I ignore them but they keep on going. They are pricey....BUT I probably spent more in cheap shit then one good set from EMF.
As for the material. I gotta go heat treated chromoly. My buddy has heat treated chromoly lower links on the front and mild steel rears. Same diameter and thickness and bent the rears first trip out and the fronts barely have any bow and have been on for years.
I just gotta figure out where the get heat treated chromoly for my tie rod.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
CUSTOM SUSPENSION LINK | ALUMINUM LINKS | HEAT TREATED CHROMOLY LINKS
Custom Bent Fab links are a great addition to any 4-Link or 3-Link suspension set-up. We build all of your links in house to your customized to your off-road rig, jeep, or buggy in house. 7075 aluminum or 4130 heat treated chromoly suspension links.
www.bentfabaz.com
There used to be a few others doing it, but can't seem to find any.
Give them length, thread and maybe location for a couple sleeves to locate a ram assist clamp?
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
You guys have convinced me. One thing I was worried about going to 2.5t TREs was the lack of parts store availability for replacements. If I stick with EMF, I can at least get home with a parts store TRE if something does end up happening.
However... how do I get around the diff cover interference? Bent tie rod?
However... how do I get around the diff cover interference? Bent tie rod?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
That or get super creative with some longer arms.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Longer steering arms? Ooof.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I'm not familiar with your exact set up, but I feel like it's a KP? Get artech or similar arms and you can put the tie rod where ever you want.
I don't like offset tre's or bent tie rods at all, so I'd be looking at other methods.
I did have the idea that if you must bend it, to do a slight roll instead. Would actually be stronger too.
Sterlingfire
ignant
You'll have to go with a double ended ram as your tie rod. Bigger ps pump will probably be necessary as well.
I have EMF tre and dle. They are sweet. I'd offer to sell them to you since that truck is getting parted out, but I'm going to keep them for my Silverado on a super duty frame I'm replacing the old truck with...
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
They don't show them on their website, but maybe I'll shoot them a message. I also sent Stephen Watson a message to pick his brain.
I'd rather not weld more crap to my knuckles if I can help it. Plus I think most steering arm setups are designed for heims, right? If I went high steer, I suppose this wouldn't be an issue, but then I need to notch my frame and move my steering box forward. Scope creep. Leaning back towards the 2.5t and just pressing the easy button. I have half a mind to machine or weld myself a 1-1/4" to 7/8" thread adapter and just rock a 1-ton TRE as a spare still.
The double ended ram option will probably happen after I link the truck (years down the road) because it would have to hang pretty low to clear the leaves, but I like where your head is at.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
You familiar with the artec arms? You wouldn't have to weld anything to the knuckle.
But ya, they're mostly for hiems, those emf hiems are geeaseable and rebuildable, so I don't really see a downside to them vs tre's.
Does rpm or whoever make a specific kit for kingpin knuckles? Because the ball joint version I've seen would be sticking waaaaay out there on kingpin knuckles.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Apparently I'm not familiar with the Artec arms. I've seen weld-on kits for the 05+ axles.
But now that I look at them, they're simply blanks that you drill for heims yeah? Or possibly double shear (which would still interfere with the diff cover).
Even if I run the EMF greasable heims, I'm still not seeing how that helps me. High steer isn't possible without doing what I mentioned above.
But now that I look at them, they're simply blanks that you drill for heims yeah? Or possibly double shear (which would still interfere with the diff cover).
Even if I run the EMF greasable heims, I'm still not seeing how that helps me. High steer isn't possible without doing what I mentioned above.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
You can run the steering at any hieght you want.
Sterlingfire
ignant
Then super duty axle now
Leave it radius arm/ coils for now.
You'll be so much happier you did
I mean if we're gonna snowball this thing, we might as well snowball it real good
Sterlingfire
ignant
Also, you could just ditch the ox and sell it to me at a real deep discount
Then you can clearance the diff cover all you want
Then you can clearance the diff cover all you want
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Yes, but then it still doesn't help me because it's not pushing the tie rod forward if I run double shear, since it uses the factory steering arm hole. It will still hit the diff cover.
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
I wouldn't want to go coils/radius arm - it would be a lot of work to someday switch to coilovers AND a lot more work to make fit. With the 05+ axle castings, I honestly think my rig will perform better on leaves than with radius arms, simply because of the ground clearance. So if we're going to snowball this thing, I should coilover swap it. But building a shop this summer takes the money away from that lol.Then super duty axle now
Leave it radius arm/ coils for now.
You'll be so much happier you did
I mean if we're gonna snowball this thing, we might as well snowball it real good
Funny.Also, you could just ditch the ox and sell it to me at a real deep discount
Then you can clearance the diff cover all you want
Sterlingfire
ignant
I knowI wouldn't want to go coils/radius arm - it would be a lot of work to someday switch to coilovers AND a lot more work to make fit. With the 05+ axle castings, I honestly think my rig will perform better on leaves than with radius arms, simply because of the ground clearance. So if we're going to snowball this thing, I should coilover swap it. But building a shop this summer takes the money away from that lol.
Funny.
We've talked a few times about this... definitely stick to the plan.
Your leafs preform better than radius arms would offroad, that's for sure.
Build your shop, you'll be much happier with that then you would with an axle swap in your already functioning truck. Those unit bearing though
So is that a maybe
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
Since we're already so off-topic, they do make KP/Unit Bearing knuckles..........
I've actually got emails out to Solid, Crane, and Reid to see if the arm length is any longer on their knuckles than factory Spicer. That is another option. Plus, then bling factor
I've actually got emails out to Solid, Crane, and Reid to see if the arm length is any longer on their knuckles than factory Spicer. That is another option. Plus, then bling factor
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Since we're already so off-topic, they do make KP/Unit Bearing knuckles..........
I've actually got emails out to Solid, Crane, and Reid to see if the arm length is any longer on their knuckles than factory Spicer. That is another option. Plus, then bling factor
I actually wanted to ad UB's to my KP knuckles for less water intrusion. Nothing out there currently, that I've seen. You sure you're not looking at the yuge crane knuckles for 1550 joints?
I want to say the gm/dodge knuckles are longer, but not sure. I doubt you want to buy all new spindles and hubs though.
If you do the artec arms with the piece of Dom tied to the stock knuckle, you can add tabs to put the tie rod out further if you wish. You just obviously have to either weld the Dom to the arms, or weld a plate and bolt it to it. Sky mfg makes arms that might work better for you.
Sterlingfire
ignant
Unit bearings are the way, but that way is not cheap, and going complete axle swap is neither cheap nor easySince we're already so off-topic, they do make KP/Unit Bearing knuckles..........
I've actually got emails out to Solid, Crane, and Reid to see if the arm length is any longer on their knuckles than factory Spicer. That is another option. Plus, then bling factor
Most definitely the easiest cheapest route for now
DMANbluesfreak
Trailers are for Boats
I was jokingly referring to the Reid Super Kingpin setup, which does require new inner-Cs. I wasn't aware of the Crane ones.
None of the factory style beefed up knuckles from Reid, Crane, or Solid will help me here by the way. They all have the same steering arm dimension as factory (Crane also only makes the high steer version for Ford).
You're right - the GM knuckles crossed my mind, but I'd need new spindles, knuckles, AND 2500hd brake mounting brackets. Would definitely like to keep the scope creep in check.
I'm not sure I follow what you mean about the tabs being added to the DOM tied to the stock knuckle. Do you have a picture of what you're describing? I'm not opposed to something like that.
None of the factory style beefed up knuckles from Reid, Crane, or Solid will help me here by the way. They all have the same steering arm dimension as factory (Crane also only makes the high steer version for Ford).
You're right - the GM knuckles crossed my mind, but I'd need new spindles, knuckles, AND 2500hd brake mounting brackets. Would definitely like to keep the scope creep in check.
I'm not sure I follow what you mean about the tabs being added to the DOM tied to the stock knuckle. Do you have a picture of what you're describing? I'm not opposed to something like that.