Shitbox Tacoma Build

[Rooster831]

Been saving up parts for a few years with plans on building an 83 shortbed, Ended up scrapping that plan when I realized i didnt have any headroom. Fast forward a few months and my buddy rolls his mint 98 Tacoma driving home from work one night, fox coilovers, brand new clutch ,3rz. it was one of my dream trucks and I ended up paying him $500 for a wrecked truck that he thought was toast.
Took it home, used the tractor to pull the roof up and stuck a battery in it and the fucker fired right up. Threw some brand new 37" sx2's on it and used it as my ranch/hunting rig for about a year. put 700 miles on it just driving around the ranch.
Few months ago I was out fucking around in some notches and i killed the reverse gear and broke a rear ujoint. No better excuse than to link it and throw a w56 with dual cases right?
So Ive just been tinkering away and slowly building it to be a decent crawler, 4 wheel underground bracket set, awesome quality, has a fj62 front diff, 300m rcv's, 6 shooters and full hydro. welded with 4.10s. I built a toy60 rear, was a big hub ford 60 that i cut down and welded toyota wheel flanges and stuck some IFS toyota shafts in, yeah i know the spline pitch is a hair different but it doesn't take much fileing to make them fit perfect. dual 2.28 tcases with an old 'JP KILLER" doubler i found in La. I have some 2.5x16" blue cap fox air shocks i was planning on running in the front, but honestly I think they are too long and im going to go with some 2.0x14 7/8 shaft fox coilovers. one of the last pricey parts i need to get.
Sorry for the wild rant, havent posted anything build thread related on (p)irate for a long time so here it is.

 

[Wulf]

Nice, I remember seeing the start of this on the other site.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

So what happened to the fox coilovers that were on it? ??????

That rear axle sounds...... Interesting

What's funny is that you should be able to use these axles if you go to a 35 spline carrier

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U9CKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0MGbFb60YJ2D3?tag=91812054244-20

Lastly, why in the world would you want to run that old ass doubler when dual case adapters are dirt cheap these days?

 

[Rooster831]

So what happened to the fox coilovers that were on it? ​​​​​​

That rear axle sounds...... Interesting

What's funny is that you should be able to use these axles if you go to a 35 spline carrier

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U9CKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0MGbFb60YJ2D3?tag=91812054244-20

Lastly, why in the world would you want to run that old ass doubler when dual case adapters are dirt cheap these days?

Its just a doubler adapter, same length as the modern TG stuff just one chunk of billet aluminum.

I still have the bolt in coilovers if someone wants them cheap, could use lower bushings and probably an oil change though. They are branded Fox/Fabtech, pic below

Ill probably upgrade to that shaft and flange kit and throw a 35 spline Ox locker in at the same time

Only pic i have of the rear end, if it has issues ill just run the 8" taco diff until i can build it better

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Fwiw you can get the shafts by themselves pretty cheap since you don't need any of the other junk.

How cheap is cheap? Are they leaking or anything? They'd go great on our 96 4runner, it's just a little adventure mobile. Has the 4 position bilstiens on it now.

 

[Rooster831]

Fwiw you can get the shafts by themselves pretty cheap since you don't need any of the other junk.

How cheap is cheap? Are they leaking or anything? They'd go great on our 96 4runner, it's just a little adventure mobile. Has the 4 position bilstiens on it now.

$100 they are yours, They still worked great and rode remarkably well. Not stiff and I think the way they are currently setup gives like 2" of lift over stock. Im in salinas ca.
One of them had a little bit of residue but i think it was mostly power steering fluid from when the steering rack broke in half

 

[YotaAtieToo]

$100 they are yours, They still worked great and rode remarkably well. Not stiff and I think the way they are currently setup gives like 2" of lift over stock. Im in salinas ca.
One of them had a little bit of residue but i think it was mostly power steering fluid from when the steering rack broke in half

That's a killer deal, you PayPal? Willing to ship?

You're close to prunedale right? Maybe 2big bronco can hold them ransom untill I get him his tcase.

 

[Rooster831]

That's a killer deal, you PayPal? Willing to ship?

You're close to prunedale right? Maybe 2big bronco can hold them ransom untill I get him his tcase.

Oh yeah we can do paypal, Ive been using the send money function on FB latley since it goes directly into my account but whatever works for you. And yup I could drop them off at his place or ship them, Ill weigh them and figure out a price for that aswell.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Oh yeah we can do paypal, Ive been using the send money function on FB latley since it goes directly into my account but whatever works for you. And yup I could drop them off at his place or ship them, Ill weigh them and figure out a price for that aswell.

OK, my wife does all the FB and PayPal shit, I'll ask her.

Shipping would be easier, unless it's stupid expensive. Shoot me a shipped price.

Feel free to text me so I can quit sitting up your thread

530 592 6033
Jeff

 

[Rooster831]

Got alot more done today, got the brackets in for the upper link and panhard bar.
My old steering ram mount was too far back so i cut out the plates and moved it forward 1" so the panhard could slip behind it.
Frame side panhard mount worked out pretty well, steering arm fit right around it so Im going to have to make sure when I do the bump stops it does allow enough up travel to not let the steering rip the mount off the frame.
also need to put on my custom oil pan, 3rz pan flange welded to a early 22r pan with a LM7 oil pickup tube. Just need to weld the 3rz pickup flange on there and it works perfect. the little brace even lines up to the bolt on the 3rz.

real happy with how nicely the panhard fits in between the upper link mount and steering ram.

 

[Wulf]

Progress is good! :D

I'm very curious to hear about how the rear holds up. Something something different spline angle even if they fit


Is the 4WU kit the one that is meant to be weld in ready or did you still have to fidget with link and bracket placement?

 

[Rooster831]

Progress is good! :D

I'm very curious to hear about how the rear holds up. Something something different spline angle even if they fit


Is the 4WU kit the one that is meant to be weld in ready or did you still have to fidget with link and bracket placement?

Ive got a buddy who has built alot of Toy60s the same way and has only broke one while running 47s on stock toyota shafts and a supercharged 3.4, does them for customers and stuff. the 60 has a 45* 30 spline and toyota is 30* 30 spline so they just need to be opened up a bit.

And yeah the 4WU kit is pretty straight forward, still have to cut off the stock trans crossmember brackets and all that jazz but they are pretty easy to figure out where to stick them on. I didnt use the Axle side upper link mount that they came with though, the ruffstuff one got my upper link 3" longer and in a better position overall with what I feel is a much stronger bracket.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Why didn't you do a 60 center in the front also?

I built a 60 rear with the kit I linked. I was going to run it with my FJ80 front but was worried about the 8" center. I actually got a quote from diamond to build a 9" center with FJ80 balls. plan was to run 6.17/6.20s to actually be able to turn bigger than 35s with a 22re and to help save the tcases. In my experience the 4.10s still break and you end up breaking more tcase parts.

I ended up with a a kingpin 60 front housing and a set of 6 lug hubs for free, so I ran that semi float toy60 rear with 2" spacers with a full width 60 front

Worked well actually





What's funny is my buddy is storing the exact same truck as yours in my yard, year, color, engine, trans everything. It's pretty clean, but needs a motor so basically the exact opposite of yours.

 

[Rooster831]

Why didn't you do a 60 center in the front also?

I built a 60 rear with the kit I linked. I was going to run it with my FJ80 front but was worried about the 8" center. I actually got a quote from diamond to build a 9" center with FJ80 balls. plan was to run 6.17/6.20s to actually be able to turn bigger than 35s with a 22re and to help save the tcases. In my experience the 4.10s still break and you end up breaking more tcase parts.

I ended up with a a kingpin 60 front housing and a set of 6 lug hubs for free, so I ran that semi float toy60 rear with 2" spacers with a full width 60 front

Worked well actually





What's funny is my buddy is storing the exact same truck as yours in my yard, year, color, engine, trans everything. It's pretty clean, but needs a motor so basically the exact opposite of yours.

Ive got a good bit of money in the 9.5" Toyota front that I didnt think a 60 would be a huge advantage especially with the ground clearance and I knew i wasnt getting that money back out of it if I sold it,

eventually I would like to put Fj80 balls and hellfire knuckles on this axle so I can run the larger RCV's with way more steering angle.

Just picked up a 07 super60 and 80 for $1000 to build a 96 fullsize blazer for a friend. they were completely rebuilt and powdercoated. killer deal.

My end game plan is to get some fabbed housings for the newer Tundra 10.5" diff and use 05+ outers for dual steer axles, those diffs are huge compared to a 9.5". Pic for reference

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Ive got a good bit of money in the 9.5" Toyota front that I didnt think a 60 would be a huge advantage especially with the ground clearance and I knew i wasnt getting that money back out of it if I sold it,

eventually I would like to put Fj80 balls and hellfire knuckles on this axle so I can run the larger RCV's with way more steering angle.

Just picked up a 07 super60 and 80 for $1000 to build a 96 fullsize blazer for a friend. they were completely rebuilt and powdercoated. killer deal.

My end game plan is to get some fabbed housings for the newer Tundra 10.5" diff and use 05+ outers for dual steer axles, those diffs are huge compared to a 9.5". Pic for reference

Fuck, I missed the FJ62 part.

The downside to the 9.5 is the pinion spline is the same as the 8". Running 4.10s is stronger for the r&p teeth, but puts more strain on the spline. I guess time will tell if its weak or not. Stubs is running them in his buggy with water filled redlabels with great luck.

Tundra diffs are pretty sweet. I talked to a guy at Ruff stuff about them a bit, they make a housing for them and the diffs are still fairly cheap to pick up, just not a ton of aftermarket support yet.

 

[Rooster831]

Fuck, I missed the FJ62 part.

The downside to the 9.5 is the pinion spline is the same as the 8". Running 4.10s is stronger for the r&p teeth, but puts more strain on the spline. I guess time will tell if its weak or not. Stubs is running them in his buggy with water filled redlabels with great luck.

Tundra diffs are pretty sweet. I talked to a guy at Ruff stuff about them a bit, they make a housing for them and the diffs are still fairly cheap to pick up, just not a ton of aftermarket support yet.

yeah its got a few advantages over the 8" like the thicker housing and larger ring gear, but still uses the same diameter shafts and birfs. Ill be running a load bolt from Jantz on the ring gear to help with deflection.
gonna be on 37s for awhile so Im really not worried about breaking the axles as much as i am the transfercase parts, only reason why im leaving 2.28s in the rear is because of how many 4.7s ive seen break and ruin someones weekend. 2.28s are way more common and cheaper, If i ever go with 4.7s im just gonna jump straight up to the 23 spline marlin comp set and completey build the cases.
supposedly it already has the chromo outputs and it was rebuilt/new when i picked it up

 

[YotaAtieToo]

yeah its got a few advantages over the 8" like the thicker housing and larger ring gear, but still uses the same diameter shafts and birfs. Ill be running a load bolt from Jantz on the ring gear to help with deflection.
gonna be on 37s for awhile so Im really not worried about breaking the axles as much as i am the transfercase parts, only reason why im leaving 2.28s in the rear is because of how many 4.7s ive seen break and ruin someones weekend. 2.28s are way more common and cheaper, If i ever go with 4.7s im just gonna jump straight up to the 23 spline marlin comp set and completey build the cases.
supposedly it already has the chromo outputs and it was rebuilt/new when i picked it up

Weird, I've never actually seen someone break a 4.7 set. Just a fair amount of outputs and a few inputs. I know it happens, but I don't think they're that weak. Lot of guys running 44-49s up here with Toyota cases too.

Almost every single time I've seen Toyota cases break, they were running 4.10s. On the other end, I know a guy who's ran 47s or 49s for like 10 years and never broke a single toyota tcase part. Not even fancy tcases. Stock outputs Ect. He's running 7.17s


Anyway, didn't mean to start a big debate on your build thread. I know everyone has their different ideas on what they worry about breaking or not. Carry on

 

[Rooster831]

Weird, I've never actually seen someone break a 4.7 set. Just a fair amount of outputs and a few inputs. I know it happens, but I don't think they're that weak. Lot of guys running 44-49s up here with Toyota cases too.

Almost every single time I've seen Toyota cases break, they were running 4.10s. On the other end, I know a guy who's ran 47s or 49s for like 10 years and never broke a single toyota tcase part. Not even fancy tcases. Stock outputs Ect. He's running 7.17s


Anyway, didn't mean to start a big debate on your build thread. I know everyone has their different ideas on what they worry about breaking or not. Carry on

All good man I like to talk about shit haha, but yeah the 4.10s definitely do create more stress on the tcase compared to a 5.xx, just requires more torque to turn the diff.

 

[Wulf]

Ive got a buddy who has built alot of Toy60s the same way and has only broke one while running 47s on stock toyota shafts and a supercharged 3.4, does them for customers and stuff. the 60 has a 45* 30 spline and toyota is 30* 30 spline so they just need to be opened up a bit.

And yeah the 4WU kit is pretty straight forward, still have to cut off the stock trans crossmember brackets and all that jazz but they are pretty easy to figure out where to stick them on. I didnt use the Axle side upper link mount that they came with though, the ruffstuff one got my upper link 3" longer and in a better position overall with what I feel is a much stronger bracket.

Right on, I have been debating about going with the 4WU kit for my truck but also considering buying the WFO crossmember and axle truss, and figure out my own upper link placement

 

[Rooster831]

This project got put on hold for a little while but I'm back at it, Got some 14" kings for it but I need to redo my towers to get the ride height I want. 3" taller, roll them back 2" and it should sit perfect.
Cut out my own beadlocks out of some 5/16" plate, Outers are AR400 Inners are standard steel.
I've made some mistakes but now that I've sat around for a year I've had enough time to figure out what to change and make it right.
Got the RCV's, Front locker, Low range offroad IFS hubs(with dowel pins/arp studs) and slip on tacoma rotor/calipers installed on it now. Wish I took more pictures of that those are very nice parts.
Rear sump oilpan from LRO aswell, didn't want to have my home made pan leak and fuck the engine up.

Will be updating this thread more as I start finishing the rest.