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setting up bump stops kicking my butt

chaplinfj60

chaplinfj60

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Member Number
3057
Messages
3,078
Loc
marshalltown iowa
good am all.

first off i dont have a good photo as i am writing this thread. i can get some tonight i think. but my issue is if i set the bumps to work for straight up and down then they are two high and wont work when off camber they dont stop it. so the question do i worry more about the off camber stopping or do strait up stopping like going at speed and bottom out.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
good am all.

first off i dont have a good photo as i am writing this thread. i can get some tonight i think. but my issue is if i set the bumps to work for straight up and down then they are two high and wont work when off camber they dont stop it. so the question do i worry more about the off camber stopping or do strait up stopping like going at speed and bottom out.
Click to expand...
Wory about your axle crashing into your oil pan or whatever other critical components it may hit first and foremost. If you can trim fenders or other things that hit with flex do that 2nd. If trimming isnt an option then lower your bumps to get the desired clearances... increasing the gaps between oil pan/whatever.
 
so no issues at all of hitting something important.
red lines is where i can put the pad or even lower. but no matter what i do i cant get both the angle and strait up down to work. so bringing the bump down to get it to stop from bottoming out off camber then my bump is crazy close to mount when riding flat.. compromise for sure

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Your bumpstops need to be more in line with your shocks; they are too far inboard which is what causes the descrepancy. I would be more worried about jounce though than articulation if you aren't going to move them.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Your bumpstops need to be more in line with your shocks; they are too far inboard which is what causes the descrepancy. I would be more worried about jounce though than articulation if you aren't going to move them.
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i was worried about that being more inline and re mounting is not out of the question. more trying to figure out why
 
I agree with what's been said for your use. I'm guessing most likely hard bottom out would be from a jump, or dropping off a ledge where the axle is more or less moving straight up. I doubt you'll bottom out one shock hard enough to do anything.

If you were racing, then ya, get them lined up.
 
I'm in the exact same boat with my bumps......................two wheel bump, they're in the game.......one wheel full articulation, they'll never touch. I'm OK with that because there is a (small) percentage of articulation that the bump on the high side is still in the game.

One wheel full stuff and the other wheel full droop, I'm either crawling or I fucked up and went full lawn dart.

The only way to actually SEE IT is to cycle both wheels at the same time. It's not the high side causing the issue, it's the low side falling away.
 
So true. And the more I think about it. I would have to be full lawn dart to worry about the slow off camber. Ty
 
I go with straight up and down limiting. Unless your bump stops are directly inline or outboard of the shocks (which can be hard to pull off, like in your case) then you'll be able to flex without touching the bump stops at all. My thought (as others have posted) is a hard bottom out event is usually from landing somewhat flat, and is not from the axle being flexed over. And even in the event the axle is flexed over when you land hard enough to hit the bumps, then the higher side shock will fully compress and then the axle/chassis will try to pivot around that and engage the bump stops so there's a some compliance from the suspension in the event one shock gets super loaded up. Additionally your shocks have the rubber shaft spacers to help protect them too. When flexed out and one shock is bottomed out, it's not taking that much force compared to a hard bottom out event, so flexing without the bump stops contacting isn't a big worry (figure a lot of buggies flat out have no bump stops at all).

At least that's been my philosophy. Unless your chassis is wide, or have your shocks mounted far inboard which is generally unstable, then your issue is something a lot of vehicles have.

Also make sure you account for the compliance of all the rubber squishing. I usually set my bump stop fully compressed at the same time the rubber shaft spacer on the shock is contacting, so the bump stop fully bottomed out is followed by all of the rubber now squishing (bump stop pad, shaft spacers). And if you don't have any rubber shaft spacers on the shocks, then I set the bump stop to bottom out 1/2" or so before the shock does (maybe more if they're new striker pads on the bump). The striker pads will get pounded to half their initial height pretty quickly.
 
COMMENCE THREAD DERAIL !!!

I wish some company would make a sturdy uhmw thread cover so springs dont wipe out the body.
 
yes ironically i was thinking about that very thing last nights. thought about some thin polly that race cars use for side panels only if the made it in a tube that could be slid in-between the coil spring and shock body. sounds simple but what causes that, shocks leaning in too much or flex makes its swing..
 
Have you considered what limit straps will do for your up travel? I struggled with this for a while. The riser will rotate around your bump stop until you limit droop on the other side. Hope this helps.

Edit: as stated above more eloquently.
 
so i made the bump pads last night and set them at the absolute must stop here. and i will go with that.

next i may have to tweek or adjust the shock mount to get my desired ride height with the my desired uptravel set. maybe.

and the one picture i took of it at full bump the damn tie rod is in the way but you can still see what needs to be seen. hahahah


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bunk said:
COMMENCE THREAD DERAIL !!!

I wish some company would make a sturdy uhmw thread cover so springs dont wipe out the body.
Click to expand...

its just the way it goes with long light weight springs on a 2.0 shocks, best thing you can do is keep an eye on your dual rate slider and make sure it has minimal play.

chaplinfj60 your dual rate slider is on upside down. long side down, lower spring 2" longer than the travel of the shock. it will keep the spring from rubbing the end of the shock on droop.
 
bunk said:
COMMENCE THREAD DERAIL !!!

I wish some company would make a sturdy uhmw thread cover so springs dont wipe out the body.
Click to expand...

I know AGM does an insert aluminum slider which fits tighter to the bodies and it somewhat helps with that. Really a spring company needs to make a barrel spring to eliminate that problem completely, but the market for light/long spring rate purchasers is very limited so doubt that will ever happen.
 
mobil1syn said:
its just the way it goes with long light weight springs on a 2.0 shocks, best thing you can do is keep an eye on your dual rate slider and make sure it has minimal play.

chaplinfj60 your dual rate slider is on upside down. long side down, lower spring 2" longer than the travel of the shock. it will keep the spring from rubbing the end of the shock on droop.
Click to expand...
i moved the slider this spring, thats a older pic. but my springs are each 14 inch top and bottom. and that little fucker in the pic i have no clue how that helps. i have been told before but forget so i slide it all the way up. wrong i know

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That is your dual rate stop. if running a 200 over 300 spring rate the combined rate is 120lbs. When the slider hits that it goes to just bottom spring at 300lbs so over doubles it. Most run it to hit with half bump stop travel left to help with bottoming out BUT it more than doubles the spring rates and if not setup by a shock tuner it will upset the vehicle when it hits, which is why most screw all the way up and don't ever use it. It is needed for shorter travel shocks where the short spring will coil bind so you use it then to prevent that from happening which will damage the spring.
 
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