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Schrader Valve Tech

ChiScouter

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Probably not really tech but does anyone know what a schrader valve will flow in cfm at 90psi? I am just curious as to what they flow not necessarily at 90 but that seems to be a standard measurement. Are there higher flow rated inserts that fit in a standard valve stem? I googled this without success.
 
Lets add...
got information on ones that flow more on deflation!
Sorry bout the hijack
 
large equipment uses a larger stem and locking valve.
perhaps an option if you're willing to make a bigger hole.

these people tested at 30psi and got numbers, maybe you can extrapolate.
Fucker, I spotted this today, not surprised they exist just didn’t know.
A thread on adapter should be easy if the proper chuck isn’t available or just add the biggun keep the standard.

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these people tested at 30psi and got numbers, maybe you can extrapolate.

I B compressor geek (my day job) so yes, I can extrapolate.
2.6cfm from 30psi to atmospheric (assuming approx. sea level) translates to a flow area equivalent to a 0.063" hole.
At 90psi, flowing to atmospheric, will be about 6.1cfm.
This gets a bit weirder when you talk about inflating tires, as you're not flowing to atmosphere, but between two different pressure vessels, one of which typically changes pressure faster than the other, and depending on how flat the tire in question started, can change volume too, so it can get messy in a hurry.
 
Not sure what the goal of this conversation is, but I've got R.A.D.s in my beadlocks and they flow far faster than anything I've done prior, including removing the valve core. The Rapid Air Down Valve Stems by Klune-V are a really high-tech answer to a simple need. The key to the R.A.D. system is the series of holes drilled at the base of the stem. These bypass the schrader valve for more air flow. Tightening the external knurled nut shuts down these passages using an O-ring incorporated in the base of the nut.
1618614625752.png
 
Not sure what the goal of this conversation is, but I've got R.A.D.s in my beadlocks and they flow far faster than anything I've done prior, including removing the valve core. The Rapid Air Down Valve Stems by Klune-V are a really high-tech answer to a simple need. The key to the R.A.D. system is the series of holes drilled at the base of the stem. These bypass the schrader valve for more air flow. Tightening the external knurled nut shuts down these passages using an O-ring incorporated in the base of the nut.
1618614625752.png
I bought mine long ago, before Klune was involved. Not sure where / whom is selling these now.
 
I am going to put together a regulator and manifold setup with hoses to air up 4 tires at the same time. Wondering if 1/4 inch line feeding the manifold with 1/4 inch lines to each tire will flow more air than the valve stems can handle. Also wondering how much compressor I would need to once again out flow the valve stems.
 
I made mine on them parameters, works ok on 35"
big " I'd go 3/8"
but take into consideration pump flow
I use the big viair..
 
Does this flow IN more volume?
Doing a lookup now...
My dump valves work well but this could do double duty...
 
I am going to put together a regulator and manifold setup with hoses to air up 4 tires at the same time. Wondering if 1/4 inch line feeding the manifold with 1/4 inch lines to each tire will flow more air than the valve stems can handle. Also wondering how much compressor I would need to once again out flow the valve stems.
Well, these guys think so. Just got this in the mail today from MORR. Review to come. It's really well-built.




MORRflate.jpg
 
Same hose but I dont see how he is regulating the pressure. I plan on a self releiving regulator so I can set the pressure and walk away to inflate or deflate. Right now I am putting this together with an ARB twin that I got on the cheap but wondering if more compressor would do the job appreiably faster. As RS pointed out there are a ton of variables

I have had really good luck with this style chuck https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61kVf6ZjqlL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
 
Same hose but I dont see how he is regulating the pressure. I plan on a self releiving regulator so I can set the pressure and walk away to inflate or deflate. Right now I am putting this together with an ARB twin that I got on the cheap but wondering if more compressor would do the job appreiably faster. As RS pointed out there are a ton of variables

I have had really good luck with this style chuck https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61kVf6ZjqlL._AC_SL1200_.jpg
The problem I have with regulators is they reduce the pressure which reduces the flow going in so it takes longer. But being able to walk away does it matter?
 
I am going to put together a regulator and manifold setup with hoses to air up 4 tires at the same time. Wondering if 1/4 inch line feeding the manifold with 1/4 inch lines to each tire will flow more air than the valve stems can handle. Also wondering how much compressor I would need to once again out flow the valve stems.

Assuming we're talking about inflating in the 30ish psi realm, at 2.6 cfm x4, you're looking at 10ish cfm total, will need about 2.5hp worth of compressor to push that. If you're driving it off 12v, you're looking at a continuous amp draw in the 156a neighborhood.

Or more simply, yes, 1/4" lines will outflow the valve stems, your practical limit will most-likely be the compressor itself on the air-up direction, and the valves on the air-down direction. If you run all of it to a single 1/4" air quick connect, the quick connect will be close to valves' collective flow limit.
 
So any deflator tech beyond the moreflate and stauns?
I'm looking to replace my trailhead junk.
We need a merge / link of these threads :beer:
 
I B compressor geek (my day job) so yes, I can extrapolate.
2.6cfm from 30psi to atmospheric (assuming approx. sea level) translates to a flow area equivalent to a 0.063" hole.
At 90psi, flowing to atmospheric, will be about 6.1cfm.
This gets a bit weirder when you talk about inflating tires, as you're not flowing to atmosphere, but between two different pressure vessels, one of which typically changes pressure faster than the other, and depending on how flat the tire in question started, can change volume too, so it can get messy in a hurry.

While i don't know for sure either but guessing it's not linear and at some point for gonna have a choke point to the amount of air can flow.Id guess the flow rate is pretty low and consistent at any psi. But it's not my day job so could be off there.

Same hose but I dont see how he is regulating the pressure. I plan on a self releiving regulator so I can set the pressure and walk away to inflate or deflate.

Better run a pressure pop off valve at the psi you want. Doesn't work the compressor as hard it seems and an hear when your done.
 
MORRflate sells a 10.6 cfm compressor but states if not airing up 4 tires at a time you will kill it fast with too much back pressure.

This likely holds true to why so many people burn out the shitty bilts and arb twins because it puts so much back pressure on the compressors due to flow restriction.

I do two 40s at a time off an ARB single. Under 8 min/ side and my compressor don't get retarded hot.
 
So any deflator tech beyond the moreflate and stauns?
I'm looking to replace my trailhead junk.ator.379953/post-490332[/URL]
I run RAD (Rapid Air Downs), but don't really see much about them anymore. I thing Trailready Beadlocks sold them as an accessory back in the day, but I got mine direct thru the vendor. They deflate FAST.

For inflation, I use a York compressor. But I also have the big ARB compressor for the locker, so I can use that, but have only done that once or twice basically to check speed of inflation.
 
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If you want a fast air up and down on the cheap, put 1/4 pipe ball valves on you wheels. Takes a few seconds to go from 30 to 5 psi is a 37-38. If you have a big enough compressor, airing up is crazy fast also, like 10 seconds with a good shop compressor :laughing:

I ended up just threading a male air chucks into each one. If i wanted to do it again, I'd just put female air chucks right on the wheel, make a double male adapter with a ball valve in the middle and use that to air up and down. Then get some of those rubber caps to keep shit out.

I still kept a normal valve stem. Made it easy to watch it air up or down.

I'm personally not a fan of any of the fancy aftermarket deals. Air down doesn't take that long if you get the right valve stems flow good. Airing up is where I get impatient.



My non expert opinion is that there is no way any "normal" on board air will out flow 4, 1/4 hoses, or really even 1.
 
I see inflation flows differing on the cheap americas tire valve stems.
Lookin at yer links...
I use compressor drain valves for "dump valves" for deflation ( pretty fukkin quick)
Mine is a dd and to the trail driven ,so a pound of ball valve ect. Is out, but does get it done.
My deflators aint very accurate going from 20# street to 10# ( as stated on the package, street psi needs to be well over double the drop to low side, or more.
:beer:

Fwiw
My big viair will do all 4 35" in the time it takes for the same unit to do 3 35" tires 1 @a time
 
MORRflate sells a 10.6 cfm compressor but states if not airing up 4 tires at a time you will kill it fast with too much back pressure.

This likely holds true to why so many people burn out the shitty bilts and arb twins because it puts so much back pressure on the compressors due to flow restriction.

I do two 40s at a time off an ARB single. Under 8 min/ side and my compressor don't get retarded hot.

I watched my twin very closely this past weekend as it was the first time really using it in true field application. I only have mine setup to fill one at a time and my gauge is an inline digital similar to that MORRflate. It was interesting to watch the tank pressure drop until meeting the tire pressure and then watching the compressor essentially fill the tire AND the tank back to the tire pressure. This had me thinking about how the tank is or isn't really helping the process. It gives the boost to start, but afterwards just increases the tire volume in effect.

I filled my Dad's set of 31s from 18 psi to 36 psi, and my set of 38x13.50 Michelins from 20 psi to 45 psi without giving the compressor a break. It was in partial sunlight and 85 degrees out but also partially under the aluminum side cover and we kept checking it with the IR thermometer; top temp seen was 169 degrees F. Took about 4 minutes per 38" tire but only a minute and a half, maybe most 2 for the 31"s. We had been on the beach all week.
 
I watched my twin very closely this past weekend as it was the first time really using it in true field application. I only have mine setup to fill one at a time and my gauge is an inline digital similar to that MORRflate. It was interesting to watch the tank pressure drop until meeting the tire pressure and then watching the compressor essentially fill the tire AND the tank back to the tire pressure. This had me thinking about how the tank is or isn't really helping the process. It gives the boost to start, but afterwards just increases the tire volume in effect.

I filled my Dad's set of 31s from 18 psi to 36 psi, and my set of 38x13.50 Michelins from 20 psi to 45 psi without giving the compressor a break. It was in partial sunlight and 85 degrees out but also partially under the aluminum side cover and we kept checking it with the IR thermometer; top temp seen was 169 degrees F. Took about 4 minutes per 38" tire but only a minute and a half, maybe most 2 for the 31"s. We had been on the beach all week.

In the long run you'd be better off building a dual inflator or buying a MORRflate duo.
 
In the long run you'd be better off building a dual inflator or buying a MORRflate duo.
The dual inflator build isn't something that would be too difficult. I have air supply on both sides of the truck already; you can kinda see one of the couplers near the fender under the cover with the blue push-lok going to it. The current compressor setup is rather integral as the NP205 is air-shifted due to clearance issues for linkage and such as well as there are helper bags built into the rear suspension setup that are controlled from the cab. I can open the aluminum cover to let the compressor breathe better too if need be. Being at the beach occasionally, inflating air mattresses and occasional ATV and SxS tires is about the majority of the use for this thing.

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While we are talking Schrader valves, I have trail ready 90* metal Schrader's in my pro comp beadlocks and those fuckers always have sticking cores. If I stick the air pressure gauge in there, it sticks, air chuck, sticks etc.... I have changed out the cores on all of them and 3 out of the 4 still stick. What am I missing here??
 
Spray some on the core inside and out before you put it in? Spray inside the caps....
 
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