What's new

School me on LS fuel pump setups for in tank applications

1Sinner

Just won't quit
CAL4
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Member Number
3533
Messages
1,053
Loc
Edwards Commiefornia
What are the best used/take outs (or their equivalents) in the LS world from stock vehicles that are tank drop ins. That also support good HP and are high flow.

Do I need regulated return?

Who makes aluminum weld in tank rings for drop in pumps

Camaro/corvette take outs ok (extendable pick ups?)

Truck take outs ok?

Will be supporting my 6.0LS2, considering turbo or supercharger as well

Cell will be full custom with holley hydramat unless other options exist that I've missed.
 
Screenshot_20230209_132211_Chrome.jpg
I found vapor works sells an aluminum weld in.

would the camaro/corvette/cts-v pumps be suitable?

Should I run dual feeds to the rails and a regulated return?

Or just go external pump?
 
I have used the 99-03 GM truck 1500/2500 fuel pump sending unit. These factory fuel pumps are very good at scavenging fuel from the tank to feed the pump. The pump sits in a “can” that has a one way check valve or a jet pump to fill the can, the return line also returns the can to keep it full. We recommend using an AC Delco or Delphi unit, there are many cheap pumps on the market, but the AC Delco has a unique jet pump feature that pumps fuel from the tank into the can to constantly supply the pump with fuel. You can identify the units with the jet pumps from the T at the top of the pump in the pressure line; the small hose from the T will go to the bottom of the can.

There are two options for the fuel pump sending unit, one without the EVAP, MU1614 (AC Delco#) and one with the EVAP emissions, MU1613. Either one will work, but you will likely not use the EVAP solenoid so no need for it, however the EVAP equipped unit is often less expensive and more common than the unit without the EVAP

The fuel pump sending unit should come with the gasket and wire pigtail. The two larger gauge wires are for the fuel pump, grey for the +12V, black is ground. The two smaller gauge wires are for the fuel level gauge float arm, if you are using an electric fuel level gauge, the fuel level sender unit output is 248 ohms full, 39 ohms empty

If you have a higher horsepower engine and need more fuel than the stock pump output, a high output sending unit from Walbro is available, or a drop in pump upgrade kit is also an option. Upgraded drop in kits are good to ~600hp.

There are 3 ports on the top of the sending unit, the largest of the 3 and label “F” is the pressure line that would go to the fuel filter and fuel rail of you engine. The feed line requires a 3/8 quick connect adapter to convert to a -6 AN fitting.

The port next to the feed line (middle port) is a vent line, it features a roll over valve so you can use it as a vent, it requires a 5/16 quick connect adapter to convert to -6 AN. If you use the roll over valve/vent on the fill plate, you can T this into that vent line or just cap it with a vacuum cap or similar

The third port is the return line, labeled “R”, this will be the fuel return from the engine or fuel pressure regulator, this also requires a 5/16 quick connect adapter to convert to -6 AN.

If you are running a returnless system, I would use a corvette filter/regulator. This will keep the proper pressure in the system, and is a commonly stocked part. If you go this route, you can mount the filter/reg close to the fuel cell, and have a short pressure and return line, then a single -6 line from the filter/reg to your fuel rail.

This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but this is how I plumbed my TJ tank with a drop in 255LPH walbro pump and the corvette filter/reg.

If you go this route, I have been advised not to use the imported filter/reg with the AN fittings brazed on. It has been reported that the quality is garbage and will cause reliability issues.


pBlbhySqrnNbohD5NQCM3Kbg=w2200-h1238-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
Great info from wisconsinite. ill add that the "truck" take outs are about 14" depth and the "tahoe" ones are about 9" IIRC, please correct me if im wrong. I'm not sure about any of the cars. I had planned on using one of the top plates from goatbilt for my setup when the time comes.

 
I used a GM 19352888 non-Evap pump, which is the returnless style. I have hydrodynamic’s plate he put in the CAD library in a goatbuilt tank.
 
Have anyone looked into ti automotive aftermarket?

Looks like they have nice stuff.

 
What are the best used/take outs (or their equivalents) in the LS world from stock vehicles that are tank drop ins. That also support good HP and are high flow.

[...]

Will be supporting my 6.0LS2, considering turbo or supercharger as well

You're dreaming if you think a factory setup will support a spicy turbo combo.

Best factory pump was a ZR1, super expensive and you can still find its limits.

You need a dual pump setup or move to a really big single pump and PWM drive it to avoid overheating the fuel.




If you're putting together a fuel cell, with these power goals, why in the world would you get a factory setup?
 
Because a factory set up work well and self contained within the tank… especially for off road application where to keep external pump(s) fed while off camber gets complicated on a fuel cell.

I'm not asking why an internal fuel pump is better, I'm asking why use a factory / OEM setup ?
There are much much better aftermarket intank applications available.
 
I'm not asking why an internal fuel pump is better, I'm asking why use a factory / OEM setup ?
There are much much better aftermarket intank applications available.
This is why I'm asking. And why I'm asking in the noob forum. The question definitely pertains to me, but others want to know. I want the reliability of an in tank pump if possible. A factory pump, if possible. Because it becomes a replaceable part, or readily available spares for trail repairs. I may not be able to do it, but I'm open to discussion.
 
This is why I'm asking. And why I'm asking in the noob forum. The question definitely pertains to me, but others want to know. I want the reliability of an in tank pump if possible. A factory pump, if possible. Because it becomes a replaceable part, or readily available spares for trail repairs. I may not be able to do it, but I'm open to discussion.

Just get an aftermarket setup and a spare pump.

Not like you'll be finding ZR1 pumps in stock at the local autozone.

I wonder how feasible will it be to install 2 rings to a fuel cell to run 2 factory fuel pumps?

Absolutely !

But 2 Silverado pumps is still not enough to fuel a 600hp boosted engine.



1Sinner This is what you need :

If you want simple :

(better find a way to calm it down)

If you want mulitiple pumps :
You can/should make a mix and match with a 255 pump for N/A operation and then stagger the 450 for when under boost.
Twin 450s are too big imo.

If you want the best out there :
 
I wonder how feasible will it be to install 2 rings to a fuel cell to run 2 factory fuel pumps?

Cut the rings out of two however many factory tanks you want and self-tapper them down with a little bit of RTV in there for good measure. :laughing:
 
THis is what I run:


2019 ZR1 fuel sending unit, is double pump, generally available at 209.00 the last time I bought one. Currently supporting 844AWD hp at 69psi fuel pressure to my LT4 (with mods).

Vaporworx has a stand alone PWM controller but I don't need it.

Beats the fuck out of the Aermotive 1K in tank pump I have in other rigs, at over 800 a pop. Also has a fuel gauge sending unit.
 
Last edited:
Fuck it, buy two and the fuel pump controller for less than aftermarket:


And yes, you can get them at the dealer, for 199.99 each.

This one just doesn't come with the float.

They're made by Bosch.
Here's the PWM fuel pump controller:



SwapTimeUSA can build a stand alone harness for it.

So, about 400.00 for a OEM rocking fuel system.
 
Did you realize that RTV + gasoline is asking for problems?
If you let it cure completely before it sees gas the black stuff is fine. The rear tank in my old F150 was done that way and was leak free for the 5yr between when I did that and when I sold it.

Regardless, there's other sealers you can use if you don't like RTV.
 
Screenshot_20230209_132211_Chrome.jpg
I found vapor works sells an aluminum weld in.

would the camaro/corvette/cts-v pumps be suitable?

Should I run dual feeds to the rails and a regulated return?

Or just go external pump?
Cheaper to just buy the Holley ring.


First few pics are factory sending units in custom tanks we did.

Last one is an Aermotive 1K, that runs about $1K plus a 300 sending unit. Not sure the bling is worth it, and aftermarket certainly isn't as tested as OEM.

We've done stainless and aluminum tanks, no need for the mat in the bottom, either. The sending units, as mentioned, are basketed.
 

Attachments

  • 201299587_314344366940848_5515669638979816522_n.jpg
    201299587_314344366940848_5515669638979816522_n.jpg
    71.9 KB · Views: 11
  • 207852532_10217588095207909_7258409017551756811_n.jpg
    207852532_10217588095207909_7258409017551756811_n.jpg
    55.2 KB · Views: 13
  • 216126337_2135054249966565_7559159084745074673_n.jpg
    216126337_2135054249966565_7559159084745074673_n.jpg
    221 KB · Views: 14
  • 11021165_10204528241380795_1319174905405921513_n (1).jpg
    11021165_10204528241380795_1319174905405921513_n (1).jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 11
Top Back Refresh