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Sas the daily

Wasn't a fan of how high the front was so I went from a 300/300 spring to a 200/300 setup yesterday. Thst dropped it level, it rides smoother and seems to drove better
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Looking forward to see how this thing does on the rubicon. You’ve never been right?
 
It will go through no issues. Gas tank skid spare driveshaft parts brake line parts. I carry plugs for brake master to plug front or rear if I have issues. If you have a Ham radio you can reach out anywhere east and west if you need parts.
 
It will go through no issues. Gas tank skid spare driveshaft parts brake line parts. I carry plugs for brake master to plug front or rear if I have issues. If you have a Ham radio you can reach out anywhere east and west if you need parts.
I figured it wouldn't be too bad, especially since 5th gwn 4runners can make it through 😅 good tip on the ham. I really need to look into it. I have a gas tank skid already on and have the rest waiting to go on but I need to get my 4 to 1 t case gears in before I bolt em up
 
I figured it wouldn't be too bad, especially since 5th gwn 4runners can make it through 😅 good tip on the ham. I really need to look into it. I have a gas tank skid already on and have the rest waiting to go on but I need to get my 4 to 1 t case gears in before I bolt em up
Ham test buy the book. They have apps with practice exams. Boring info. But read the book and do practice test you’ll pass. A handheld ham is $20-30. If you need any guidance just message me.
 
Ham test buy the book. They have apps with practice exams. Boring info. But read the book and do practice test you’ll pass. A handheld ham is $20-30. If you need any guidance just message me.
Thank you, appreciate the info
 
Wife left town so I had Friday off to babysit the kid so we got some work done, sanded the rusty bumper, added some gussets, and threw some hammered gray on. Also wasn't a fan of the bronze wheels so I went back to white. Then on Saturday hit a local sandy area, gotta say coil overs are a big improvement in the rough/whoops then any other suspension setup iv had. Need to do some work to the rear now, the shocks are shot and could use some bump s


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Wife left town so I had Friday off to babysit the kid so we got some work done, sanded the rusty bumper, added some gussets, and threw some hammered gray on. Also wasn't a fan of the bronze wheels so I went back to white. Then on Saturday hit a local sandy area, gotta say coil overs are a big improvement in the rough/whoops then any other suspension setup iv had. Need to do some work to the rear now, the shocks are shot and could use some bump stops


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I liked the bronze wheel color. Did you paint those and if so, what paint did you use?
 
If you want to run a 1350 setup or put a driveline spacer on a nissan h233b it's actually pretty simple. Get a conversion 1310/1350 u joint, 1350 tundra yoke and pilot centering ring l, then add a trailgear spacer and redrill the nissan yoke to toyota bolt pattern
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If you want to run a 1350 setup or put a driveline spacer on a nissan h233b it's actually pretty simple. Get a conversion 1310/1350 u joint, 1350 tundra yoke and pilot centering ring l, then add a trailgear spacer and redrill the nissan yoke to toyota bolt pattern
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What did you end up doing on the t-case side?
 
Derp. Rear.


My mind was stuck on the front shaft because that's what I need to build! :homer:
Hey me too haha. I bought one of the shadow wolf mfg flange adapters but still need to buy the double cv end, ebay has 1310 double cardan joints all assembled with a 1.75'' male end and the Id of a stock shaft is 1.75ish so figured it would be pretty easy to cut it down and weld one in but is been low on the list since my stock shaft works but it just vibes at 30 mph or faster
 
Something like this


3.5" bolt circle....so that looks like the flange is the Spicer 211229x/Precision 627 that Nissannut has in his write up and it's what I'm using on an XJ shaft with an adapter to go from that pattern to the TX10.
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I hadn't even seen the Shadwolf setup. Basically that same concept that we were using with the ford 1310 flange, but it looks like it's for 1330/1350 flanges so it won't work with the one you linked. You want to look for a Ram or Super Duty CV for that.


Interesting though. You used to be able to pick up the Spicer or Precision flanges for like $60. Now it looks like the Spicer is over $300 everywhere and the Precision isn't even available. That one you linked is a really good price for the whole assembly.
 
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3.5" bolt circle....so that looks like the flange is the Spicer 211229x/Precision 627 that Nissannut has in his write up and it's what I'm using on an XJ shaft with an adapter to go from that pattern to the TX10.
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I hadn't even seen the Shadwolf setup. Basically that same concept that we were using with the ford 1310 flange, but it looks like it's for 1330/1350 flanges so it won't work with the one you linked. You want to look for a Ram or Super Duty CV for that.


Interesting though. You used to be able to pick up the Spicer or Precision flanges for like $60. Now it looks like the Spicer is over $300 everywhere and the Precision isn't even available. That one you linked is a really good price for the whole assembly.
I have a coworker with a lathe so I figured I could make the adaper work with a 1310 setup, they do sell a 1350 for not much more but was hoping to keep 1310 for the better angles.
 
That flange adaper doesn't have a male pilot lip to go into the cv so o figured be easy to make one on the lathe to center a 1310 then just redrill the bolt pattern
 
day trip into the hills, our planned route was snowed in and it was raining so we ended up checking out a local ohv area and some falls along the way. Couldn't get to wild since my dad was in his new 4runner the transmission started growling going into 2nd so looks like ill be swapping my spare in
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Put in a set of 3.7 low range gears, total pain in the ass. This kit uses the factory sized bearing so it couldn't be assembled the traditional way. I need up having ro leave the gears in loose and leave the input gear out, the problem with that is the input gear cover bolts from the inside so a couple nutzerts and counter sunk bolts I had a cover i could bolt on from the outside. Also had to clearance the cover because it put too much load on the bearings when it was tightened down
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Tx10 and the gears are from a local guy who has been importing them from Japan so there was no instructions
Pretty sure I saw you posting on FB the other day. :laughing:

I wonder what the difference is between those and the old ~1.9 AC or calmini gears. I have AC in one of my rigs and calmini in the other one, but bought both already built so I didn't do the installed.....but I didn't remember hearing about anyone having those problems.
 
Pretty sure I saw you posting on FB the other day. :laughing:

I wonder what the difference is between those and the old ~1.9 AC or calmini gears. I have AC in one of my rigs and calmini in the other one, but bought both already built so I didn't do the installed.....but I didn't remember hearing about anyone having those problems.
That was me 🤣
I know the old calmini ones they had a smaller bearing with a bushing in the case so the gear could slide by it. I'm not sure on the ac gears how they do it and I couldn't find any instructions from them
 
300 dollars in driveline parts later I find out my cross member chop wasn't enough to fit 1350 stuff
Still has another inch or so to go before it could even be bolted on and it's hitting
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Since the driveline didn't work out and I don't have time to rebuild the cross
member I used the tom woods offset ujoint to get more angle. Stock ground out net me 29 degrees and with the offset joint 37.5. At ride height I'm sitting at 22 degrees
Also had a bad leak at the steering box so that got swapped with a junk yard unit.
This skid plates about 8 years old and pretty bent but was able to make it work with some custom spacers.
Hitting the rubicon in 2 weeks
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Well bgaidan comments about twisting main leafs and the rig sagging in the rear I finally put the overload back in, while iwas there I did some bump stop extensions. The trash a roo on the hatch isn't ideal but i needed all the room I can get for the upcoming rubicon trip
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Yeah...spring over, mine just eats stock spring packs. I put a new set on recently and have half-installed a traction bar. Hoping that will stop the wrap. Next move, now that I have a reference height, will likely be to just bite the bullet and order a set a Alcans....possibly put it back to spring under in the process.
 
Yeah...spring over, mine just eats stock spring packs. I put a new set on recently and have half-installed a traction bar. Hoping that will stop the wrap. Next move, now that I have a reference height, will likely be to just bite the bullet and order a set a Alcans....possibly put it back to spring under in the process.
My last xterra I did I went to the ford 58s and it took about 3 years before they wrapped enough to need replacement, I think I'll go that route again if I have to many issues
 
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