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Samurai!

Since the T-case is in the way of the exhaust and running outside the frame is a poor choice, it got run through the frame. I give you the framuffler!

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I planned ahead for this, there are a few baffles welded inside the frame. It also got drains at the low point just in case. It will have dual exits in the rear. Needless to say, brake/fuel lines and wiring harness will not be mounted to the frame.
 
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Bell housing. I pretty much hate this one but it should work. Got an Acme adapter for a Toy trans. Got an R150 bell housing, cut it in half and welded the back half of an AX15 V6 bell to it.

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I have ideas for a much nicer version. Maybe after it gets running I will pursue that with the bigger HP motor.
 
The axles. Mock up and the real one that still needs the center turned. These are 4340.

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The Wilwood brakes VS stock F150.

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I forget the exact numbers, but think it was 17# lighter.

The intake. It stuck up way to damn high!

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Intercooler.

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Bam!

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So, anyone wondering about the yellow tube...... the place I was working made handrail. This was for emergency exit stairwells. It was made wrong. They were going to scrap it. It was 1.5x.120 DOM. I gave a bunch of it a new home. Unfortunately you can only fit a 9' long piece in a Beetle and still close the trunk.
 
The exhaust is quite intresting but I'm not sure how I feel about it, especially running diesel exhaust through it.
 
The exhaust is quite intresting but I'm not sure how I feel about it, especially running diesel exhaust through it.

I was thinking the same thing. I'd be worried about it permeating a lot of heat, especially with baffles in there. I do like the out of the box thinking on this project a lot though.

You thinking diesel exhaust, because it can be corrosive? (I think?) :laughing:





The f&r TTB is really cool. I'm super curious how it will perform. I try to pretend my samurai is my sxs, but the ride is obviously horrible even compared to a utility sxs.
 
Started working on the long side axles. Since all 4 corners use F150 CV's, I got 4 axles and started cutting.

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For the inners on the long side originally I was planning on running the Exploder inner to make life easy. Problem is, it doesn't have enough travel and the max angle is right at what I need. F150 inner has more travel and angle. But the bolt flange is way to big.

So, new plan.

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Stick the Exploder stubs on to the F150 inners and turn off the flange.
 
I was thinking the same thing. I'd be worried about it permeating a lot of heat, especially with baffles in there. I do like the out of the box thinking on this project a lot though.

You thinking diesel exhaust, because it can be corrosive? (I think?)

Not super worried about heat. I could be wrong though. Stock exhuast is 1.75x.060 on the VW beetle. So going up to 2x4x.120 is a 300% increase in area going both ways or 600% total. Double the wall thickness and the amount of surface area and additional mass should keep the temps in check.

Where it enters the frame rail I put a piece of angle iron on the inside as a splitter and to keep some heat off the outer wall of the frame. There is a piece of 1/4" around the hole on the inside and a piece of the original frame with the VIN got welded on the outside as a doubler.

If it were a daily driver that I expected to go 200K it would definitely be a concern. For the summer time weekend wheeler, other things are way higher up on the bound to fail list.
 
Working on the front bumper.

Some of this.

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Then some of this.

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A little squirt gun action.

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Some notchy action.

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And glued onto the frame.

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The tube is just a rem, not sure if it's getting a straight tube with bends at the ends or a radiused tube with bends at the end.

Radius tube pro's
Will match the grill better

Con's
Makes a flat skid plate look funny
 
Contemplating the rear bumper/tire mount.

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The tricky part is getting the pivot for it to swing far enough out so that the tailgate will still open but not get into the tire at full bump.
 
The corner where the mount needs to go is pretty busy.

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Will need to do a plate mount for sure.
 
I'm personally a fan of this style spare tire mount and would skip the whole swing out idea...

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Can't do a hard top or enclosed soft top like that. The tube coming out of the frame is 1 of the exhaust exits.
 
Surprised to see a spare tire and plans for a broverlander swing out mount a build that's so aggressive about cutting wieght.

I'd think about just beefing up the tailgate and hinge area or just giving up opening the tailgate before I made a swing out.
 
I am cutting weight, the spare is the bumper......


I'm getting old, this thing will have heat, sealed cab and heated seats.
 
Very nice work.
Think the flexible exhaust piece will be enough? I've found they move a lot less than you'd think.
 
Very nice work.
Think the flexible exhaust piece will be enough? I've found they move a lot less than you'd think.
The urethane bushing motor mounts don't allow for much movement. Not quite solid mount but pretty stiff.
 
Yup, horrible frieght roller, no upgrades.

Winch, maybe. If I do it will be receiver mounted so it can be used on either end. I am all ready planning on having anderson plugs front and rear for jumper cables since the batteries are buried.
 
Yup, horrible frieght roller, no upgrades.

Winch, maybe. If I do it will be receiver mounted so it can be used on either end. I am all ready planning on having anderson plugs front and rear for jumper cables since the batteries are buried.

You should be well in the sxs winch range with as light as this is.

I have a cheapo 6k lb on my samurai and it pulls it fine, I want to upgrade to a warn 5500 axom though.
 
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