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Samurai forged pistons

Gm 3.4 (of the 3800 family) would be a good fit also. 60* aluminum heads, but old and plentiful enough to be cheap.

Obviously all these new engines will blow the doors off the old ones, but hp is everything. Otherwise just go for a 2.7 ecoboost :evil:
 
I want one with a 2gr-fks yota motor in it. I drive an old ES350 and it is such a great motor.
 
Saw those but they again are listed to fit the 16 valve G13B and the G13A but Wiseco can't give me a straight answer regarding if they actually will work in a G13A. Like mentioned earlier the G13B has a shorter stroke so I don't see how both engines can use the same pistons.
 
Saw those but they again are listed to fit the 16 valve G13B and the G13A but Wiseco can't give me a straight answer regarding if they actually will work in a G13A. Like mentioned earlier the G13B has a shorter stroke so I don't see how both engines can use the same pistons.
Rod length could be different.
 
G13A and G13B aren't the same displacement IIRC.
 
As I like bench-building franken-engines, I thought maybe you could use aftermarket Honda TRX 300EX pistons (think you could but compression height is low). While doing some interwebs research, I ran across this:

TeamSwift • View topic - G series specs database - put in your info here

CBR1000RR pistons look like a good overbore candidate if you are running boost due to lower comp. height.
 
Its been decades since I've been down that 1.3L road but I have an old link to zuwharrie I'll list below, its a read and kind of answers your question but there's a lot of good info on the topic.

 
1324cc, 3.03 stroke, 820 rods, dished pistons, 8.9 compression ratio.

1298cc, 2.97 stroke, 820 rods, flat top pistons, 9.5 compression ratio.
 
A 9.5 piston in the 1324cc will give you a CR of like 10.2 or somewhere in that range. The piston actually pokes out of the block a bit. Also the swift motor has a floating pin and the other has a pressed wrist pin yet the piston works with either, go figure.
 
To the OP, please double check research before running with what I said, it's been over 10 years since I've ran a 1.3 haha
 
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Just cruising the suzuki forum cuz im bored. Thought I'd add some info since i was big into the swift gti back in the day. The G10, g13A and G13B all share the same dimensions. 74mm bore 75.5mm stroke if memory is correct. G13b is 10 : 1 cr. They all had forged crank and rods i believe. G13b for sure. The main diff between the g13a and g13b was the twin cam head. G13b has 100hp and 83 lb ft. G10 turbo has 77hp and 103lb ft. They all share the same bell housing but the g13b has a bracket to pickup an addition bolt hole only found on the gti transaxle. They pull hard to 7500 rpm and a chip was available to push it to 8600. Longevity was an issue since they are engineered to be so light and strung out. NA hp potential is around 150 hp at around 11k rpm. Turbo'd versions last long keeping the rpm down around stock. They can make 230 hp. Crank walk is one of the main killers. It pounds out the key on the crank snout and the timing pulley starts moving. They are an interference motor. Ppl have punched them out to fit vitara pistons but they get pretty thin. You can also put the g13b head on the 1.6. I still have a geo metro but i pulled the g10 and swapped a 2.2 ecotec. Edit, reading the wiki tells me im wrong about the stroke. ( 77mm vs 75.5)
 
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A 9.5 piston in the 1324cc will give you a CR of like 10.2 or somewhere in that range. The piston actually pokes out of the block a bit. Also the swift motor has a floating pin and the other has a pressed wrist pin yet the piston works with either, go figure.
I have this combo put together at the moment. The piston is out of the block .040, with an .043 thick Fel-Pro gasket it’s not going to work.
 
I have this combo put together at the moment. The piston is out of the block .040, with an .043 thick Fel-Pro gasket it’s not going to work.
I recall guys running a .030 gasket with .022-.024 piston stickout with only .006-.008 clearance from valve tapping, somewhat scary but guys were running it. Not sure why you have so much more piston stickout unless you've had your head or blocked decked. I recall a lot of the swift guys doubling up on head gaskets as well. Never really read the long-term results with these setups or how well they even ran though.
 
Yep, the Ford 2.8, 2.9 and 4.0 are all 60° engines and fit nicely in the Samurais.

The 2.8 and 2.9 both have their issues, but they're not bad and far better than the Chevy 2.8.

The 4.0 is the best of the three and they make good power. The downside to all three is the weight, they are cast iron blocks and heads, so they are heavy for v-6s.




As stated above, the 4.3 is a 90° engine and it is wide. A very poor fit for the Sami engine bay, but I've seen a number of them done.




The 2.8s fit nicely in a Sami, but they are still a sucky 2.8 with the counter balance shaft.

I've always wanted to do the little Duratec 2.5 V-6 that was in Ford cars, very light weight, a buddy and I had lifted one that was laying in the junkyard.

Another hot v-6 would be the Duratec 3.0, all aluminum and the baby Jag version put out 232HP. It was somewhat popular with the sand buggy crowd for awhile due to it's light weight and good power output.

The Ford SHO 3.4 V-8 used the same bore and stroke as the 2.5 Duratec, just two more cylinders added, so it would've been a cool swap too. iirc the SHO 3.4s had cam issues.
Hiw about a Honda 3.5? Light, narrow, 250 hp/tq through cats and long, quiet exhaust. That sounds like a great swap.
 
Hiw about a Honda 3.5? Light, narrow, 250 hp/tq through cats and long, quiet exhaust. That sounds like a great swap.

Except it's a Honda? :flipoff2:

Just kidding, I know nothing about Hondas other than some of them run backwards.
 
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Update on my search, I ended up having custom pistons made by Wiseco. I finally was able to put this engine together and installed.
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