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Samantha Build - 2wd to 4wd

JimmyJet10

JimmyJet10

SnailTrail4x4
ST4x4
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Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Member Number
3461
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83
Greetings Irate4x4, This is my 1993 2wd 3rd Gen Toyota Pickup "Samantha" that I am going to be building into a 4wd Crawler.
Long story short I bought it in a lean sale for $300 and it came 3 good 37" Toyo Tires (2 you see here). The back story is Samantha was stolen and taken for a joy rid. pretty much every panel was hit except the passenger side door. The owner decided to keep the truck and wanted to repair it. The shop they took it to either couldn't get it running or the owner didn't want to pay. I did a lean sale off the shop to acquire the truck. I spend a good year (on and off) getting it running and able to pass smog (I'm in California so I have strict rules). *I know this is a silly project because I just as easily get a 4wd and have to do as much work.

Samantha-Start.jpg


The first thing I did was lift the truck so I could remove all the suspension front and rear. Once that was removed, We pulled out the 22re engine and Trasmisson so I would have good access to cut off the IFS Brackets with a Plasma Torch.


Samantha-Plasma-Cut.jpg


Once the Brackets were cut off we decided we were going to pull off the body. We should have done this before plasma cutting but didn't, oh well. My buddy Jason talked me into removing the body as it will give us better access for making a new cross-member and welding on the new brackets for the suspension. I am thinking about going to go with a 3-link front suspension and a chevy 63s in the rear. I also got a dual transfer case set up with a 2.28 in the front and a 4.7 in the rear.

Samantha-Frame-Engine-cases.jpg


This is where Samantha sits now. I am sure you have many questions and I would appreciate your thoughts. Being open and having positive criticism is only going to make this build even better. This build is also on SnailTrail4x4 YouTube if you care to watch. It's been a slow process, but I just got a bunch of parts in using the Parts counter here on Irate4x4 and that really helped me get the ball moving, Expect more updates, and videos to come.
 
The 2wd frame is better as it bumps up like stated above. I personally I’m not a fan of Toyota axles. The shitty housing, small ring and pinion, birfields, trunion bears, high steer arms, hub studs can all be addressed but then why did you even start with that axle? I know there’s Toyota axle fanboys and they’ll polish and polish and polish. But financially it makes no sense.

37’s and smaller dana 44 with 3 series carrier jk ring and pinion chromoly shafts. 39.5’s and bigger go right to a 60 and 35 spline outers. cry once but once.
 
Also 63” springs are long and hang up everywhere. I started using 56” springs years ago and it flexes the same and doesn’t stick out and hang up as much. Plus you can get them for free as every flat biller wants the 63’s
 
Rangerrod said:
The 2wd frame is better as it bumps up like stated above. I personally I’m not a fan of Toyota axles. The shitty housing, small ring and pinion, birfields, trunion bears, high steer arms, hub studs can all be addressed but then why did you even start with that axle? I know there’s Toyota axle fanboys and they’ll polish and polish and polish. But financially it makes no sense.

37’s and smaller dana 44 with 3 series carrier jk ring and pinion chromoly shafts. 39.5’s and bigger go right to a 60 and 35 spline outers. cry once but once.
Click to expand...

Rangerrod said:
Also 63” springs are long and hang up everywhere. I started using 56” springs years ago and it flexes the same and doesn’t stick out and hang up as much. Plus you can get them for free as every flat biller wants the 63’s
Click to expand...


i feel so attacked:flipoff2:
 
Rangerrod said:
I personally I’m not a fan of Toyota axles. The shitty housing, small ring and pinion, birfields, trunion bears, high steer arms, hub studs can all be addressed but then why did you even start with that axle?
Click to expand...
I am using Toyota Axles mainly because I already had them lying around in the shop. While I was trying to get this rig through the lean sale, I started acquiring parts for the axles. If I were to start again, I probably would do some full witdths or Land Cruiser axles.

Also, Making a beef Toyota axle on YouTube will make for a great video. and later if I want to I can swap over to full widths. (Creating content for videos is almost backward thinking and stupid for the pocketbook.)

I have never heard someone say that the 56" springs flex as much as the 63" ones. To me that logically doesn't make sense. I do completely understand the fact that they are so long, and I hit them on everything. But... They make good rear skids, haha.
 
Clean-Axle-Rear.jpg

I bought a used rear axle off some guy on craigslist a while ago to have as a spare. But now I am going to use it as the rear for this build as the stock axle (2wd one) was only a 5 lug set up, and I want to have matching front and rear wheels. I was cleaning the axle in preparation for the cutting and welding that is going to happen and in doing so I removed the 3rd member.

Random_3rd-Member.jpg


I was very shocked and presently surprised to find a spooled 5.29 gear set! Yippy it was like Christmas in May. I am going to go with an E-Locker set up in this housing (yes I know I need to modify it) so this new 3rd member will be kept as a spare.

The next few steps are to remove the studs, do a deep clean in and out. and then start cutting. I am going to remove a section of the bottom of the housing and replace it with a thicker 3/16 piece of plate, cut the spot for the E-locker solenoid. I am going to add armor to the pumpkin and truss the axle.

I am worried about warping the housing when I am welding it. The only advice I have heard is to do a few small passes and let it completely cool down. Does anyone else have any other advice on how to prevent warping?
 
Trussing the axle is the main concern since it is large and runs along the axle tube itself. Go slow, meaning... tack it, then go back to first tack and put not more than a 1” bead, move to furthest distance from that spot and put down a 1” bead. Put your welds down in a similar pattern to taking head bolts out or tightening a wheel, star like pattern. If you are worried about warpage, weld one pass and let it cool to touch, then repeat. It will take longer, but it’s safer. Maybe someone else more skilled than I can give better advice.
 
Some guys use a big I-beam and chain down both ends and bottle jack in the center. I would worry about it. Since it’s Toyota it will be warped as soon as you wheel it.
 
Rangerrod said:
Some guys use a big I-beam and chain down both ends and bottle jack in the center. I would worry about it. Since it’s Toyota it will be warped as soon as you wheel it.
Click to expand...
2x on this method. Did this on a yota 8" and Ford 9". Works great. Jimmy - you doing back, top (or both) truss?
 
gutlessYJ said:
2x on this method. Did this on a yota 8" and Ford 9". Works great. Jimmy - you doing back, top (or both) truss?
Click to expand...
I was going to do a Top Truss only. My limited knowledge of trusses is that back trusses are more for go-fast trucks, and this isn't one of those. I am sure a back truss would help any bending up or down, but I figure a top truss will be better for that.
 
Don’t forget you need different axle shafts if running an elocker in an IFS housing.
 
If you've already considered it, then disregard but if not - go over your frame with a fine tooth comb. With the frame stripped down like you have it now, it will never be easier than now to fix any rust. Even if the inner frame rails are solid, I highly recommend templating and welding in 1/8" plates to the inner frame rails at least 12" before and aft the horse collar cross member & and the outer frame rails - before and aft the motor mounts, especially on the driver's side to reinforce the frame for the steering box (assuming you're running a steering box).

Also, rear spring wise - Don't use 63" Chevy springs unless it's a budget driven decision. They're long AF and you'll tag them on everything.
I'm looking forward to ditching them on my rig and am going with other springs for my son's 4Runner.

You're off to awesome start. Looking forward to seeing more progress.
 
I agree with not using 63" springs. I've never been impressed with them, 56" seems to be a much better choice.
 
I've had 56" F-150 springs in the rear of my 4Runner for the last 7 years and have no complaints. F-150's will give you a little more lift than the 63's will. If you really want a 56" spring but think the F-150s will be too much lift and make the rear sit too tall, check out Ford Ranger 56" springs. From my experience the Ranger springs will give you about the same lift as the 63's do, but their 56" long and not 63" long lol.
 
Aisin said:
Don’t forget you need different axle shafts if running an elocker in an IFS housing.
Click to expand...
I didn't know this, are the E-Locker axle shafts longer? shorter? is the E-locker housing wider? I think I might have a first-gen tacoma rear axle laying outside my shop.... I will have to look.
 
LowDown said:
Don't use 63" Chevy springs...They're long AF and you'll tag them on everything.
Click to expand...
Alex123456 said:
I agree with not using 63" springs.
Click to expand...
J.Cole said:
Their 56" long and not 63" long lol.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the suggestion, I will look into this. A dedicated rock crawler wants a lot of droop, and I know the 63s provide that, I am running them on my other truck, and yes they are long. I also already have a set here at the shop.


On another note, I am not going to be using shackles. I am going to try LEAF SPRING SLIDER KIT to help keep the truck lower. Running 56" springs might help with how long the truck would be because the slider kit extends past the end of the leaf.
 
forum.ih8mud.com

E-locker swap. Longer shafts needed???

Ok so about a month a @GRM informed me on a different thread that if a guy does an e-locker swap into a late 80s housing he needs longer shafts. So I drug out my spare housing, spare e locker diff and spare V6 diff. After comparing the two diffs I really see a difference between the two on the...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Probably more info on pirate too.
 
You need shafts from a coil sprung 4Runner rear axle. They are slightly longer than the pickup shafts. Without the correct shafts you run the risk of breaking side gears in the elocker. A guy went through 3 elockers before he realized the shafts were the incorrect length.
 
Rangerrod said:
forum.ih8mud.com

E-locker swap. Longer shafts needed???

Ok so about a month a @GRM informed me on a different thread that if a guy does an e-locker swap into a late 80s housing he needs longer shafts. So I drug out my spare housing, spare e locker diff and spare V6 diff. After comparing the two diffs I really see a difference between the two on the...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Probably more info on pirate too.
Click to expand...
Thanks for showing me this, I had no idea.

After reading over that thread it seems there are two different lengths shafts from the IFS rear axles 24 1/4" leaf sprung (pick up) and 24 5/8" coil sprung (4Runner). This really equates to 1/4" different spline contact in the carrier and as Aisin said people have been breaking them.

Rear-Shaft-Lenght.jpg


I just went out to the shop and measured mine. I measured from just above the snap ring to the tip of the axle shaft. I didn't know what length they were because I ordered chromoly ones from Trail-Gear (Thanks Irate4x4 Parts Counter). Apparently, they ship the larger 24 5/8 lengths... so that was a bullet dodged.

I appreciate the experienced insight and all the suggestions. This is why forums are great.
 
If you drive like an old lady the shorter shaft might be fine but I’m Irish and beat on my shit like it owes me money. With my luck it would break 20 miles into the desert. I’d want as much shaft in the hole as possible. :flipoff2:
 
Also a fan of the podcast seems like you have a solid build ahead of you!
 
Jeepin' Jimmy Where's the updates! Haven't heard y'all talk much at all on the podcast about this build?
 
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