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Sam I am

Well, I took the Sami to hoodoo in Oregon. Now I know why portals, 42s and 4ws is so popular there. Place is knarly.

I could not make it through a few of the lines, but got around pretty good the whole time, also nailed some lines I didn't think I could.

All in the Sami did great for what it is. The only real issue was the stupid air in the fuel. Happened once sat, then ran fine all day Sunday until about 1 am.... :laughing: and wouldn't restart. Started right up this morning to load on the trailer.

Edit: it also was puking gear oil when on steep climbs. I'm guessing the trans seal is toast.
 
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Still waiting for pics from buddies.

Probably should have done sliders before this trip :laughing: good thing I plan to cut the rockers out anyway.
 
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One thing that was constantly fucking me were those stupid rear spring hangers. At some point I want to cut all the stock stuff off, go to a spring with more arch, and inboard the springs a bit. Not sure if want to stick with yj's or go to something shorter. I'm happy so far with the TG rears in the front, and it would be nice to have all 4 be the same.
 
The yj “adapters” have always bothered me. I don’t have time for real fab and am thinking of just going with off the shelf TG or ome rears all around…. Although something with a ton of arch like a toy 5” (minus a few leaves), tucked up flush the bottom of the frame, would be slick.
 
They're dumb for sure. At least I don't have double shackle garbage though :laughing:

Sami's are the only vehicle I know that has a bolt on kit for longer leafs.
 
One thing that was constantly fucking me were those stupid rear spring hangers. At some point I want to cut all the stock stuff off, go to a spring with more arch, and inboard the springs a bit. Not sure if want to stick with yj's or go to something shorter. I'm happy so far with the TG rears in the front, and it would be nice to have all 4 be the same.
I loved the flex and stability of my Sami on stock YJ's SPUA, but I absolutely HATED how the spring hangers were rock anchors. I stared at it a few times trying to figure out how I could modify everything to switch them to SPOA and get the hangers up out of the rocks, but still keep the rig low. I never did anything though.
 
I loved the flex and stability of my Sami on stock YJ's SPUA, but I absolutely HATED how the spring hangers were rock anchors. I stared at it a few times trying to figure out how I could modify everything to switch them to SPOA and get the hangers up out of the rocks, but still keep the rig low. I never did anything though.

If I stay with YJs, I'm thinking of going with OME YJ's. I'm hoping for a little more arch to be able to mount the eyes higher, while staying spua. I also need to go inboard a little as the tracks are only about 1/2" away from the leafs and I think it forces excess snow to build up and cause the tracks to slip sometimes.

In the front, I may go spoa, but chop the frame at the motor mount. Go straight out and have the shackle mount off the top of the frame like the old Ftoy rears. My shackles get a serious beating in the rocks currently :laughing:
 
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Finally got around to rebuilding the door that came with this thing. New regulators and metal handles plus the low range abs or whatever door panels. Will be nice to have fully functional doors that matchy sick paint.

Got the rest of the top pieces on today also. I like the half cab, but I'd like to have a full top made to fit the cage, I just never really liked the factory style tops. Especially when I catch the corner on a tree :laughing:
 
Are you that tall that you need the cage that high? Just curious. I’m 6’-3” and never had head room issues. I have a 38” inseam, always had knees to the dash clearance issues instead in Sammy’s
 
Are you that tall that you need the cage that high? Just curious. I’m 6’-3” and never had head room issues. I have a 38” inseam, always had knees to the dash clearance issues instead in Sammy’s

It's really not high, just the angle I guess. I had to notch the factory b pillar deal a bit, but it and the pieces above the door still fit.

I'm the opposite, I'm only like 5'11" but all torso, so I sit as high as a lot of taller guys.

You're definitely the only one I've ever heard say they had plenty of room in a Sami with an internal cage. :laughing: if you look up a few post, you can see there is only 3-4" between the cage and my goofy head when I'm leaning out a bit.
 
It's really not high, just the angle I guess. I had to notch the factory b pillar deal a bit, but it and the pieces above the door still fit.

I'm the opposite, I'm only like 5'11" but all torso, so I sit as high as a lot of taller guys.

You're definitely the only one I've ever heard say they had plenty of room in a Sami with an internal cage. :laughing: if you look up a few post, you can see there is only 3-4" between the cage and my goofy head when I'm leaning out a bit.
My race Sammy had an exo cage to get enough room , safe space for two people in it. The garbage buggy I built I lowered the floor to fit the internal cage. I don’t think I could fit with an internal cage in the tracker.
 
This thing makes me want another samurai so bad !
I've got 17000 projects already but this is fucking cool !
 
My race Sammy had an exo cage to get enough room , safe space for two people in it. The garbage buggy I built I lowered the floor to fit the internal cage. I don’t think I could fit with an internal cage in the tracker.

Now I'm confused why you question my cage that's even with the windshield :flipoff2::laughing:

This thing makes me want another samurai so bad !
I've got 17000 projects already but this is fucking cool !

It's a lot of fun. Basically a better built version of the 1st stage of the Sami I had as a teenager. It's slow as shit and doesn't ride or drive very well, but that's part of what makes it fun. I tried the $30k SxS thing and it just wasn't for me, this is where it's at.

I have thought about putting the tracks on a 2 door 2nd gen tracker if I could find one. They ride well and haul ass with 125 hp.
 
Got the rest of the top pieces on today also. I like the half cab, but I'd like to have a full top made to fit the cage, I just never really liked the factory style tops. Especially when I catch the corner on a tree :laughing:

Now I'm confused why you question my cage that's even with the windshield :flipoff2::laughing:
It doesn’t look even with the windshield I guess. I may have incorrectly interpreted the factory style tops not fitting over the cage. Does a factory style top still fit? I took that to mean that it did not fit a top while you wished one would.
 
It doesn’t look even with the windshield I guess. I may have incorrectly interpreted the factory style tops not fitting over the cage. Does a factory style top still fit? I took that to mean that it did not fit a top while you wished one would.

It all fits good. Like I said, it's under the b pillar, but I did have to notch it. There should be pics back a few pages if you care enough.

Shitty night pics

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One thing that was constantly fucking me were those stupid rear spring hangers. At some point I want to cut all the stock stuff off, go to a spring with more arch, and inboard the springs a bit. Not sure if want to stick with yj's or go to something shorter. I'm happy so far with the TG rears in the front, and it would be nice to have all 4 be the same.
Mine is spring over with yjs and the rear axle is moved back around 7 inches.
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Having the smooth transition to the leaf spring helps a lot
 
Well this pissed me off today

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Stock plastic lasted almost 35 years, and was actually still good on this door. "Badass" metal one broke on the 5th or 6th time using it :homer:

These did fit like shit, they wouldn't go up all the way with out die grinding the square holes. Hindsight, I should have slotted the holes for the studs and moved it down, because I think the handle hitting the door caused it to break.

Oh well.
 
I reworked my rear suspension from leafs to 4-link and coils. Made a world of difference.
Smoother ride, more flex, better grip and all without having to go taller.
 
What are you going to do now? Put the factory ones back on?

Roadless is sending a new one. I guess I'll just take more time to make sure it fits better.

I reworked my rear suspension from leafs to 4-link and coils. Made a world of difference.
Smoother ride, more flex, better grip and all without having to go taller.

Ya, that's always an option. Cost to function is big on this rig. I don't mind leafs, that can work well for me.

Also, the problem is that if I do links, I'll want either coil overs or air shocks. :laughing:
 
I did the raised rear spring mounts on my samurai. Got the idea from a thread on the old board. A guy from the UK, I believe, is who I copied. Made a huge difference on not getting hung up on rocks.
I am SPUA and I also made a bastard leaf pack with Blazer/S10 leafs and YJ leafs. From what I recall, it gave me around 2" of lift over a stock 4/5 leaf YJ pack. Worked perfect for my 33x10.50s (at the time) and cut fenders (cut them at the top of the stock flares).
I also moved my front spring mounts up into the frame too. Along with cutting the perches up into the front axle housing (still SPUA), shaving the bottom of the front diff and making raised spring plates for the rear axle. Yeah, I may have went a little overboard to gain clearance. But all the mods definitely helped. Were they worth the time and effort? At the time, yeah, they were.
 

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So I got the parts I need to fix my shifter. I haven't driven it since labor day when it was doing the wierd, super intermittent fuel starvation thing.

Any one have any ideas? Vapor lock? Wierd fuel pump issue? The last time it did it, the pump wouldn't even draw fuel from a Gatorade bottle, but later fired up to dribe on and off the trailer, and now around the yard. It's hard to diagnose when it doesn't always do it.

Also stumped on how the gauge got reversed :laughing:
 
So I got the parts I need to fix my shifter. I haven't driven it since labor day when it was doing the wierd, super intermittent fuel starvation thing.

Any one have any ideas? Vapor lock? Wierd fuel pump issue? The last time it did it, the pump wouldn't even draw fuel from a Gatorade bottle, but later fired up to dribe on and off the trailer, and now around the yard. It's hard to diagnose when it doesn't always do it.

Also stumped on how the gauge got reversed :laughing:

How old is the rubber fuel line on top of the motor? Could be vapor locking.
 
Brand new

What I don't get is that it all ran fine. But wouldn't take more than 1/2 tank, because the tank vent was plugged. When I un plugged it, this started happening.

Plug the tank vent again, then. :flipoff2:

Did that used to run up to the front with a charcoal canister or something to re-burn the fumes off?

I’m not familiar with Samurais at all, so just guessing here, but the Geo has a tank up front and it recycles the fumes, so to speak. My old 84’ Bronco did the same.
 
Plug the tank vent again, then. :flipoff2:

Did that used to run up to the front with a charcoal canister or something to re-burn the fumes off?

I’m not familiar with Samurais at all, so just guessing here, but the Geo has a tank up front and it recycles the fumes, so to speak. My old 84’ Bronco did the same.

I'm talking about the ~5/8" line that parallels the filler neck. The filler neck comes in about the middle of the tank, and the vent is on top. So when it was plugged, the tank would kick off about half full. I didn't really know what was going on until I had the tank on the ground.

I can't fathom how un plugging that would cause issues :homer:
 
I'm talking about the ~5/8" line that parallels the filler neck. The filler neck comes in about the middle of the tank, and the vent is on top. So when it was plugged, the tank would kick off about half full. I didn't really know what was going on until I had the tank on the ground.

I can't fathom how un plugging that would cause issues :homer:

This is carbureted, right?

Could it be that it’s not allowing the proper vacuum for the fuel pump to pull fuel?

Is the vent tube supposed to be open, or should it be vented into a can?? That’s my question. I can’t see how leaving it in the open without something restricting it wouldn’t cause a vacuum issue.
 
This is carbureted, right?

Could it be that it’s not allowing the proper vacuum for the fuel pump to pull fuel?

Is the vent tube supposed to be open, or should it be vented into a can?? That’s my question. I can’t see how leaving it in the open without something restricting it wouldn’t cause a vacuum issue.
Yes, carb with a cam driven fuel pump.

I'm not sure what you mean, but like I said, it will run great for a long time, then boom won't run. Not sure if it's the level of fuel in the tank, things warming up, both, or just random.

Vent is stock, it's the smaller hose that goes from the tank to the filler neck to let air out while you're fueling. It shouldn't effect anything with how it runs, only when fueling.

I'm guessing something else I messed with is the culprit.
 
Yes, carb with a cam driven fuel pump.

I'm not sure what you mean, but like I said, it will run great for a long time, then boom won't run. Not sure if it's the level of fuel in the tank, things warming up, both, or just random.

Vent is stock, it's the smaller hose that goes from the tank to the filler neck to let air out while you're fueling. It shouldn't effect anything with how it runs, only when fueling.

I'm guessing something else I messed with is the culprit.

Did you change the sending unit or pull it out? Any chance that’s the issue?
 
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