What's new
By:
Filters

Rust inside tank removal

YotaAtieToo

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
142
Messages
12,314
Loc
Bonners Ferry, ID
Buddy got a standard L style transfer tank for free from work since it had a leak that they tried fixing with no luck. He already has one in his truck so he offered it to me. I've always wanted one, just could never justify the cost without really "needing" one. Well with a free tank, the $400 for a good pump kit isn't too bad, plus work pays for fuel, so it'll pay for its self quickly.

I've fixed tanks before and it's not too hard. Stick an air hose in the fill with a rag around it, spray the spots you think are leaking with soapy water. Grind out the spot, then make sure you start your weld well before the leak, this makes sure that you are getting full pen by the time you're on the leak.

Anyway, that went fine, but now I gotta deal with the rust that was in the very bottom of the tank. I rinsed out as much as I could then did a quick Google search and found an old trick with molasses? :confused: lots of people saying water molasses 10:1. Let it sit for a while, this is where opinions vary. Some say a day, some say weeks. Apparently the molasses dissolves the rust and you can just drain it all out.

Well I have just a few gallons sitting in the bottom of the tank now, no idea what to expect.
 
Why don't they use the rust electrolysis method? Make a plug out of wood and stick the anode down there, put - on the tank, 7 Mule soap, bam totally rust free in 24-150 hours. Probaby 24 though.
 
Never done it with a transfer tank but for motorcycle/atv tanks I usually throw chain(s) or large nuts/bolts in with some fuel and shake em or throw them in the bed of my truck for a few days. Repeat till it's clean enough.

I haven't tried it yet for a fuel tank but I dont' see why a 5 gallon bucket of EvapoRust wouldn't do the job too if you feel like forking out the $
 
Last edited:
https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal/

This picture, in reverse for a tank.

zNh0CD4.png
 
evernoob said:
Why don't they use the rust electrolysis method? Make a plug out of wood and stick the anode down there, put - on the tank, 7 Mule soap, bam totally rust free in 24-150 hours. Probaby 24 though.
Click to expand...

They? Me?

Molasses seemed like the easiest thing to try first. It's really not that bad, just wanted to try something while I have it out. I have a filter set up after the pump also, so I should be ok.
 
I used vinegar salt and ball bearings for a motorcycle tank. After I got it cleaned out, I used red kote.

Maybe use the same method leave the tank in the bed of the truck for a while as you drive it?
 
I have seen videos where guys put 5 pounds of gravel in there and let it rotate on some kind of electric motor to clean it out like a rock tumbler.
 
For those who aren't familiar with a transfer tank. It's about 90 gals, has 2 ~2.5" holes on top, but has tubes that extend down 3-4", so basically anything I put in there isn't easily coming out. Maybe a chain, then tie one end to a string and leave the end of the string out.

It's really not that rusty, most of what I could see rinsed off with a garden hose, the problem is all the stuff I can't see. That and trying to rinse it out of the 1/4npt drain hole :laughing:
 
Last edited:
I pressure wash the inside the best I can. Get some gallon jugs of white vinegar from the dollar store and let it soak a couple days. Repeat the pressure wash and it'll look great.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
For those who aren't familiar with a transfer tank. It's about 80 gals, has 2 ~2.5" holes on top, but has tubes that extend down 3-4", so basically anything I put in there isn't easily coming out. Maybe a chain, then tie one end to a string and leave the end of the string out.

It's really not that rusty, most of what I could see rinsed off with a garden hose, the problem is all the stuff I can't see. That and trying to rinse it out of the 1/4npt drain hole :laughing:
Click to expand...

So you could easily cut a big hole out of it that you could shove your shoulder into, clean everything out, then use Alchemy to fuse the metal back together like arcane magick?
 
Do you have an old cement mixer? Put some solvent with some nuts and bolts in the tank and let it spin.

3xo8Rce.jpg
 
Ryno said:
I pressure wash the inside the best I can. Get some gallon jugs of white vinegar from the dollar store and let it soak a couple days. Repeat the pressure wash and it'll look great.
Click to expand...

Can only get to maybe 25% of the bottom with a pressure washer. I saw the vinegar trick after molasses. I'll try that next.

evernoob said:
So you could easily cut a big hole out of it that you could shove your shoulder into, clean everything out, then use Alchemy to fuse the metal back together like arcane magick?
Click to expand...

No thanks.

DWT said:
Molasses works. @stucky knows the deal
Click to expand...

Sweet, good to know.
 
Jackie Treehorn said:
Do you have an old cement mixer? Put some solvent with some nuts and bolts in the tank and let it spin.

Click to expand...

I already mentioned why that would be a huge pain to get nuts and bolts or rocks out.

Also, it's a 90 gal tank that weighs almost 200 lbs, not like it would attach to that very easily.

It's this tank for those who aren't familiar. Which I just found out is $800 new, so I guess I got a decent deal.

87930_400x400.jpg
 
Luckily the pump has a notch in the bottom that sucks a bit up off the flat, most heavy solids are there. Then a filter housing post pump. Knocking rust off makes it have to go through the pump. If you can “dissolve” it to fines I can see getting it out without much issue, but both 2” pipe bungs have a downward tube on them? Was thinking fill side yes, pump side, no. Either way, how are you getting the rust/molasses mix out of the tank once fully done? Assuming it has a very tube down inches off each bung. I’ve welded a drain bing (3/4” pipe) in several.
 
Blacksheep10 said:
Luckily the pump has a notch in the bottom that sucks a bit up off the flat, most heavy solids are there. Then a filter housing post pump. Knocking rust off makes it have to go through the pump. If you can “dissolve” it to fines I can see getting it out without much issue, but both 2” pipe bungs have a downward tube on them? Was thinking fill side yes, pump side, no. Either way, how are you getting the rust/molasses mix out of the tank once fully done? Assuming it has a very tube down inches off each bung. I’ve welded a drain bing (3/4” pipe) in several.
Click to expand...

Yes, i had thought about that also.

It's not the normal rust from sitting empty, it's more goo from sitting with 15 gals of fuel and 5 gals of water. Most of what I could see just rinsed off.

Yes both have the tube going down.

There is a 1/4" npt drain, hopefully that's big enough to let everything out. I could probably re-tap to maybe 1/2" npt safely, but I think it will be ok.
 
I came from propane to gas and oil and I cannot believe the condition of all the tanks that go out in the field with rust and shit in the bottom that never have any issues.

Make sure the stinger is 1” above the bottom and run it.

I like the idea of a chain on a string. I wouldn’t worry too much. Throw 5 gallons of clear in it and drive around for a week.

What comes off by then will be all that comes off.
 
I would throw a chain in it with 5-10 gallons and drive around for a week pull out chain and dump fuel into bucket for starting fires. Fill with fuel and run make sure to filter for first few tanks and off ya go.
 
Throw some ball bearings in the bottom permanently and run a good filter. Like Etyler said, nasty full of shit tanks will have no problem unless your pickup is so low it's sucking the crap off the bottom.
 
Pocahontas said:
I would throw a chain in it with 5-10 gallons and drive around for a week pull out chain and dump fuel into bucket for starting fires. Fill with fuel and run make sure to filter for first few tanks and off ya go.
Click to expand...

I already have about 20 gals that came out of it for starting fires :flipoff2:​​​​​​

Apparently no one can read anymore :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I already have about 20 gals that came out of it for starting fires :flipoff2:​​​​​​

Apparently no one can read anymore :laughing:
Click to expand...

Well then filter it and run it, didn't realize you could have too much fire starter. You have a 6.7 power stroke right? I would think it would to be fine as long as you filter it and dilute it in the tank or the aux tank should be fine.

As long as you have a way of making sure rain/ condensation doesn't make it into the tank and are able to retrieve the chain easily it should work fine for you.
 
Pocahontas said:
Well then filter it and run it, didn't realize you could have too much fire starter. You have a 6.7 power stroke right? I would think it would to be fine as long as you filter it and dilute it in the tank or the aux tank should be fine.

As long as you have a way of making sure rain/ condensation doesn't make it into the tank and are able to retrieve the chain easily it should work fine for you.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it's going in his 7.3 which cares even less
 
In that case why is he even asking a question. Filter it and run it, one of the reasons I'm trying to go back to all mechanical diesels or gas in my personal shit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh