I have a mill, like already mentioned you need machinery to handle the log
I have done a large project and that is about it. I need a 2x4, I just go get one from the hardware store for a couple of bucks
You will go though more blades than you think
You will find every staple in the tree, and every .22 bullet that was ever shot in the county
There is a learning curve to get the most out of your log
and like everything else, the neighborhood will expect you to move your whole set up to their house to get 12 boards out of the one blow down that they have, and you should do it for fun if you don't you are a jerk
if you have the equipment you are most of the way thereI've got machinery and such for handling the log, no issues there for sure.
I've looked at the blade sharpeners already and yea, this won't be for the random 2x4 or whatever; theres an old house site on my property that still has a nice Chimney stack that would make for a great "shack" in the woods and my dad is about to retire and needs a place to work on things. My mother thinks they can't afford to put up a building but I'd like to prove otherwise. I'm a licensed P.E. in my state too, so aside from Zoning, aint no thang.
The county line splits my property so that means I'll have twice as many .22lr to find! Lol.
This. Either trim or T&G for ceilings but not much other demand for pine in my area.Not sure how you are estimating board feet in the standing tree, but I would use an estimator that accounts for waste and taper in the tree. Likely has less board feet than what you are thinking.
Log Rule Board Feet Calculator
This standing tree or log rule board feet calculator uses the Doyle, Scribner, or International log rules to estimate board foot yield of a tree.dqydj.com
Pine also has little value and will generally be hard to sell. Pine boards just aren't used for much.
I think it is a 28"I see guys with mills offering to come and mill your trees in to lumber for between $70-10/hour. Or less if you want to trade some of the wood they want. Never hurts to ask them.
SomeGuyFromOlympia how wide will your mill cut?
There's no way in hell you should lose an entire inch of thickness going from rough milled to finished unless it's a spiraled piece of shit or you're CNCiing it down and leaving a raised edge.I have live edge projects to do (too many no where near ready to start on) and most of the walnut I bought was from guys who mess around with their sawmills cutting and selling slabs. I recently bought two large swamp oak slabs from a small company that only sells large slabs of hardwood for a friend of mines wet bar counter top I’m going to build for him. They’re starting out at 3” thickness. I figure after getting it on my buddies router table and flattening them they’ll be around 2” thick. I’ll do a clear epoxy finish filling the cracks with black first.
Unless you are trying to be fancy I would highly encourage you to build your workbench out of cheapo dimensional lumber from the usual sources.I did purchase some 5x5 9’ timber’s from the same guys I got the swamp oak from to build a wood working bench out of…
I’d love to have a saw mill but that’s probably never going to happen.
These guys have a huge saw setup for big logs as that’s what they specialize in. They also have a commercial dryer. My slabs in the photo above have been dried.
Here’s some huge walnut slabs that are around 5’ wide at its widest area and around 16’ long. This tree was hit by lightning and the tree grew back over the area it got hit. You can see the gap area on the left of the slab where it was hit. I didn’t even want to ask how much those slabs cost. Conference room table slabs.