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Residential solar people?

We only sell through distributors and I don't have access to salesforce to see who has the best discounts.

You can locate your nearest distributor here: Unirac Solar PV Racking - Local Distributors I'll reach out to a few guys and see if i can find out whos got a decent discount up there.
Looking at the rail vs railess option from unirac and I'm having a hard time deciding which allows me to have the most roof spread out roof support. Seems like rail may be the way to go? With a rail system I'm looking at having flashing mounts every 2 feet, but I might only put screws in every other mount, staggered, to reduce roof penetrations but still get support.

P.S. The videos constantly talking about "rafters" are annoying to me. Are homes still built with rafters somewhere in the country? Pretty much everything around here built in the last 75 years has trusses.
 
Looking at the rail vs railess option from unirac and I'm having a hard time deciding which allows me to have the most roof spread out roof support. Seems like rail may be the way to go? With a rail system I'm looking at having flashing mounts every 2 feet, but I might only put screws in every other mount, staggered, to reduce roof penetrations but still get support.

P.S. The videos constantly talking about "rafters" are annoying to me. Are homes still built with rafters somewhere in the country? Pretty much everything around here built in the last 75 years has trusses.
I don't think you are going to want to not attach every other foot. You have massive downslope loading as well.

But hey, It's your warranty. :flipoff2:

As for rafters/vs trusses. I hear you but its standard in the industry to use "rafters" as the generic term.
 
I don't think you are going to want to not attach every other foot. You have massive downslope loading as well.

But hey, It's your warranty. :flipoff2:

As for rafters/vs trusses. I hear you but its standard in the industry to use "rafters" as the generic term.
I suppose, it was just a thought but chances are if I goof up the installation of the flashing then I'm going to have leaks regardless of the installation number. FYI my trusses are 24" OC.
 
Sorry for the Tuesday question on Wed, but i are solar dumb. So, what voltage does each panel put out? 2v,12v?
 
Sorry for the Tuesday question on Wed, but i are solar dumb. So, what voltage does each panel put out? 2v,12v?
Varies, the panels I'm looking at put out 40v open circuit and 33.6volts at their maximum power. I've also got some panels that get over 75 volts open circuit. Typically you string them together in series up to the maximum of the dc input on your inverter, the inverters I'm looking at are 600volts max input so at solar noon on a cold clear day I'll see 550 volts DC at 10 amps on each input. Not something to be dismissed from a safety perspective. I'm a little surprised that PV cable and mc4 connectors don't need to be run in conduit like thhn does but I guess UL says it's okay.
 
I'm a little surprised that PV cable and mc4 connectors don't need to be run in conduit like thhn does but I guess UL says it's okay.
Half of the building code is "well someone died from this or had a near miss once upon a time so nobody should be allowed to do it ever in any circumstances".

The other half is ensuring things are done in standardized ways so that some inspector who doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground has a decent chance of correctly evaluating whether the requirements of the first half were met

Solar is a century newer than electrical. Give it time. It will get there.
 
Varies, the panels I'm looking at put out 40v open circuit and 33.6volts at their maximum power. I've also got some panels that get over 75 volts open circuit. Typically you string them together in series up to the maximum of the dc input on your inverter, the inverters I'm looking at are 600volts max input so at solar noon on a cold clear day I'll see 550 volts DC at 10 amps on each input. Not something to be dismissed from a safety perspective. I'm a little surprised that PV cable and mc4 connectors don't need to be run in conduit like thhn does but I guess UL says it's okay.
Dang, so how do batteries come into play? The inverter charges the batteries. What kind of voltage do they have?
 
Dang, so how do batteries come into play? The inverter charges the batteries. What kind of voltage do they have?

No need for batteries if you have 1:1 net metering like I do and don't need backup power. Inverter puts the panel power straight to the grid. If your utility's interconnection agreement gives you less $$ for generated power than you pay when you get it from them, battery's can be used to reduce your purchased power. You can either get a hybrid inverter that handles battery power in/out or a "AC" battery that has an integrated inverter.
 
Alright I finally am ready to pull the trigger on the purchase from RES supply (cheapest I can find, $150 flat shipping)
1x ABB UNO-7.6-TL-OUTD-S-US-A Inverter - RES Supply
20x Trina TSM-325-DD06M.05(II) Solar Panel - RES Supply in portrait starting right up from the gutters so the snow has a place to go. 2upx7 and a 3upx3 arrays. I'll string them into 10 panel strings.
XR-100 rail and flashfoot2 every 2' into a truss. I looked long and hard at unirac's parts and I can't get a warm fuzzy feeling about the gasket in that flashing standing up to ice daming as well as the flashfoot2. The flashfoot2 also seemed stronger to spread the load out along the truss. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'd like to go unirac, much cheaper but I'm worried about strength and durability in the snow and ice.
I also got the wire clips, end caps, and conduit flashings.


Any reason not to buy that ABB inverter? $400 cheaper than the 7.7kw SMA I had been looking at. I know a smaller inverter would be okay, but I'm thinking I may end up adding a ground source heat pump/ac unit and expanding my PV array down the road to match it's load. I wouldn't mind a more convenient way to heat during the shoulder seasons than lighting a fire once a day.
 
xr-100 is a direct ripoff of my first patent so f them for that. :laughing:

The FF2 is a really nice foot. It's also retardedly expensive but should treat you well. (glad you decided to go into every truss)

I know nothing about inverters.
 
xr-100 is a direct ripoff of my first patent so f them for that. :laughing:

The FF2 is a really nice foot. It's also retardedly expensive but should treat you well. (glad you decided to go into every truss)

I know nothing about inverters.
Doing the racking ever 2' with the ff2, all in black, puts the price of the racking at 1/3 of the total cost of the system components. The unirac flashing is 2/3 the price of the ff2, but when you need 72 of them it's just going to be expensive no matter what. The piece of mind of having the load spread out that much more will be worth it, and it would be a whore to go back and do later. I've been told by a local solar installer to expect panels to shed slightly more often than a metal roof of the same pitch. If that's the case they should slide 2-3 times a winter which would be great and probably be better for my roof than it staying for the whole winter like it does now on shingles. We'll see. In all of my energy and payback calculations I zeroed out all the estimated generation for december, january, and february as I'm not expecting the array to ever be clear enough to generate noticeable power once the snow starts. Since my utility is 1:1 net metering, it's not a big deal if that is in fact the case.

If I factor in the 26% tax credit I'm still looking at a 4 year payback period if I ignore my labor costs. My current utility rate is $0.194/kwh.
 
After a ton of going back and forth and questing my system I finally placed the order more than a week ago and it's finally going to fill today. Sounds like there is starting to be a shortage of panels and they had to do a bunch of digging to find all the panels I placed the order for. They are honoring the flat $150 shipping rate even though it's going to all be coming from 3+ different warehouses. I ended up going with 23 panels. They will be going into a 2x7 and a 3x3 array. They are going in the same plane and will be wired into 12 and 11 panel strings. I also ordered two through roof conduit flashings, plenty of wire clips, and end caps to try to make the install as clean as possible. No wire laying on shingles, no conduit across the roof. I'm going to run conduit all the way from the roof to the inverter. I think I'll come into the attic under a panel with a UF clamp on an LB going through the roof with RMC mounted to a truss. Once in the attic I'll probably switch to EMT, combine all the wires in a box in the garage and then EMT to the inverter. The PV cable is rated to be run out of conduit but I like having it protected given the 500 volts DC @10 amps it will be carrying out of sight, I'm assuming it's okay to be run in conduit though, I need to research that a bit. I know the plus and minus conductor have to be paralleled when run in metallic conduit.

I also got my electrical permit from the county, I don't need a building permit. I'll be putting the bottom edges of the panels over the center of the gutter so most of the water hits the gutter, but the bulk of the snow should shed off without wrecking the gutters or getting stopped by them.

Also also, I found out that the copper bus CH series 200 amp main and 100 amp sub panels I put in my house years ago to replace the zinsco actually have 225 amp and 125 amp busses. This means that I am not limited to a single 40 amp breaker for the inverter like a typical Al bus 200 amp panel due to the 120% rule. NEC actually allows for 70 amps of generation breakers in my main panel because of this (225amps*120%-200amps) so if I get a wild hair to add another inverter down the road it will be easy/cheap. I even contacted Eaton with my panelboard numbers and they confirmed it by email so I have it in writing for my inspector should he question it.

If everything goes according to plan I should have quite a bit of excess generation on my power bill by this time next year and I'll be thinking about a heat pump out of a coil in a pond.
 
sweet

I've gotta get on that shit before the tax credit goes away

why rigid conduit to start and not EMT throughout?
EMT seems to do fine outdoors, you just stick the service entrance head on with one of the compression fittings and a glob of silicone
 
sweet

I've gotta get on that shit before the tax credit goes away

why rigid conduit to start and not EMT throughout?
EMT seems to do fine outdoors, you just stick the service entrance head on with one of the compression fittings and a glob of silicone
I think the 26% credit got extended all the way through 2022.

Clearance. You can thread rigid right into the back of the LB and get the LB really close to the flashing. With a compression adapter you end up adding another inch or so plus the compression adapters aren't THAT watertight, especially when the conduit is coming out perpendicular to the roof. Pipe dope on male up threads into the LB is going to be pretty impenetrable to water. I've got a bender that will do up to 2" EMT or 1.5" rigid so I could even run it rigid the whole way but that seems like a pain for no reason.
My goal is go have the LB/roof penetration underneath a panel so that it's hidden from view and more protected. I'm not sure if this will actually be possible but I'll try once I have the flashing in hand and can see how thick it is.
 
I'm going to run conduit all the way from the roof to the inverter. I think I'll come into the attic under a panel with a UF clamp on an LB going through the roof with RMC mounted to a truss. Once in the attic I'll probably switch to EMT, combine all the wires in a box in the garage and then EMT to the inverter. The PV cable is rated to be run out of conduit but I like having it protected given the 500 volts DC @10 amps it will be carrying out of sight, I'm assuming it's okay to be run in conduit though, I need to research that a bit. I know the plus and minus conductor have to be paralleled when run in metallic conduit.
Not only "can" the PV wires be run in conduit (or a "raceway") but I believe they MUST be run in METALLIC conduit when they're in conduit.

That is, any penetration and anywhere you put it into conduit has to be metallic.

On one array, I have the PV wire clipped to the panels all around.

On another, I used a run of EMT as a raceway to better protect and support it.

But in both instances, when it comes down the wall it is in metallic conduit.

The Master Electrician I had to hire to sign off on the permit indicated the DC wires had to be in metallic conduit only (no plastic).

The AC stuff was fine in PVC.. but that dangerous DC has to be metallic.
 
Any reason not to buy that ABB inverter? $400 cheaper than the 7.7kw SMA I had been looking at. I know a smaller inverter would be okay, but I'm thinking I may end up adding a ground source heat pump/ac unit and expanding my PV array down the road to match it's load. I wouldn't mind a more convenient way to heat during the shoulder seasons than lighting a fire once a day.
Probably too late now, but does the ABB have the "Secure Power Supply" socket of the SMA?

My inverters will produce a single 2kw 110 outlet each when the sun is shining and the power company is offline.

Handy once in a while. $400 handy? I dunno..

The other big question - which NEC are you under? 2014 or 2017? What are your requirements for rapid-shut-down?

For my SMA units, I had to get the TS4-R-S units for each panel. Then you have to "turn them on" or off. Two options. Use an SMA inverter that sends the SunSpec Alliance encoding over the existing DC lines, or get a Tigo injector and wire it up.

Other options are a standalone communication system for the rapid shut downs.

2017 requires max voltage to go to 60V within x seconds, so you wind up with a "switch" on every panel.

2014 allowed for a single shut-down point farther down stream (but within 10' of the array) so you could aggregate your entire array and just shut things down at the edge via a single device.

I have one install done under 2014, one under 2017. The 2014 was cheaper, of course..
 
tsm1mt what does the math say about ROI? around here i am looking at 10-15yrs at my current rates/consumption.
6-7 years with all of my free labor involved.

Assuming electricity rates remain around $.10/kwh.
 
Probably too late now, but does the ABB have the "Secure Power Supply" socket of the SMA?

My inverters will produce a single 2kw 110 outlet each when the sun is shining and the power company is offline.
Thanks for bringing this up. This seems like a VERY worthwhile feature to have.
 
Probably too late now, but does the ABB have the "Secure Power Supply" socket of the SMA?

My inverters will produce a single 2kw 110 outlet each when the sun is shining and the power company is offline.

Handy once in a while. $400 handy? I dunno..

The other big question - which NEC are you under? 2014 or 2017? What are your requirements for rapid-shut-down?

For my SMA units, I had to get the TS4-R-S units for each panel. Then you have to "turn them on" or off. Two options. Use an SMA inverter that sends the SunSpec Alliance encoding over the existing DC lines, or get a Tigo injector and wire it up.

Other options are a standalone communication system for the rapid shut downs.

2017 requires max voltage to go to 60V within x seconds, so you wind up with a "switch" on every panel.

2014 allowed for a single shut-down point farther down stream (but within 10' of the array) so you could aggregate your entire array and just shut things down at the edge via a single device.

I have one install done under 2014, one under 2017. The 2014 was cheaper, of course..
Looks like Michigan is 2017. I'm not sure if the inspector will notice this or not but I want to make sure I'm compliant. Looks like I've got to buy some more stuff! Looking at ABB's shutdown devices, it looks to me like I only need one of these at each of my two arrays?



My inverter showed up yesterday, nothing else has shipped yet.
I looked at the secure power supply option from SMA and I wanted to justify the idea of having it, but I have never had a power outage that wasn't at night or during a snow storm, and since it just feeds a 120v outlet with 2000 watts it just didn't seem worth it compared to just using a genset or standalone inverter off a vehicle like I normally use. I also very rarely have a meaningful power outage, maybe once every 2 years.
 
Okay, so digging into it a little further that kit would only be good for nec 2014. I've contact ABB to see what options they suggest but at this point it looks like I'll likely need to buy a rapid shutdown module for each panel. My inverter may already have the transmitter in it for TS4's but I'm not sure. If not it looks like a transmitter is only $150 or so, minor compared to the $44 per module for the MLPE.
Question, what about a button next to the inverter that short circuits the strings? It wouldn't last very many cycles but in theory it should never be needed anyway, certainly not more than once. Seems like that would satisfy NEC 2017's requirements.
 
Okay, so digging into it a little further that kit would only be good for nec 2014. I've contact ABB to see what options they suggest but at this point it looks like I'll likely need to buy a rapid shutdown module for each panel. My inverter may already have the transmitter in it for TS4's but I'm not sure. If not it looks like a transmitter is only $150 or so, minor compared to the $44 per module for the MLPE.
Question, what about a button next to the inverter that short circuits the strings? It wouldn't last very many cycles but in theory it should never be needed anyway, certainly not more than once. Seems like that would satisfy NEC 2017's requirements.
My take on NEC2017 is you can't have more than 60V ANYWHERE when the shutdown is active.

Your panels are 40-50V each.

So that means you cannot have two panels wired in series during a shutdown event, because you'd exceed 60V.

In theory, a knife switch at every junction would do that - just not very "rapid" since I believe you need one switch/device to shut them all down in < 10s or something.

I press this button, nowhere in the system is there more than 60V.

Thus the device on every panel to disconnect the panel when the signal is lost.

NEC2014, I could have 600V at the edge of my array with a single disconnect at the edge - typically with a remote switch to activate it (located within 10ft of the service entrance)

These rules are primarily about protecting firefighters on your roof chopping holes in it with axes - they (understandably) don't want to hit a 600V DC string.

And yes, adding $44 to every panel brings the suck.

That said, the inspector didn't climb up on the roof and look under each panel.
 
My take on NEC2017 is you can't have more than 60V ANYWHERE when the shutdown is active.

Your panels are 40-50V each.

So that means you cannot have two panels wired in series during a shutdown event, because you'd exceed 60V.

In theory, a knife switch at every junction would do that - just not very "rapid" since I believe you need one switch/device to shut them all down in < 10s or something.

I press this button, nowhere in the system is there more than 60V.

Thus the device on every panel to disconnect the panel when the signal is lost.

NEC2014, I could have 600V at the edge of my array with a single disconnect at the edge - typically with a remote switch to activate it (located within 10ft of the service entrance)

These rules are primarily about protecting firefighters on your roof chopping holes in it with axes - they (understandably) don't want to hit a 600V DC string.

And yes, adding $44 to every panel brings the suck.

That said, the inspector didn't climb up on the roof and look under each panel.
My panels are 40.4v OC, rounded to the nearest volt that's 40 volts so I should be okay with using one RSD module like the outback per 2 panels since the limit is 80 volts that I see, where did you come up with 60 volts?
That's $55 per two panels and gives some additional safety functionality.
It looks like the swtich/control for the outback products are $120

AP systems has a single panel module for $26 and it's slim enough that it would be hard to tell which panels had it and which don't.
AP Systems Rapid Shutoff device (SKU Part Number RSD-S-PLC(MC4)){ad}&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0emHBhC1ARIsAL1QGNeqsr4wZTtwXniUFaMFMzltQV-zzil9fuy5fp3fRb-XnOrzVdxIdiwaAtr-EALw_wcB
The transmitter can just be powered off the inverter's mains connection so it's automatic, and the transmitter is fairly cheap ~$30 or so.
Probably go this route.

Any thoughts on short circuiting and where it would be disallowed in NEC 2017? I can't find any mention on the internets of that idea. Seems like the easiest and in some ways simplest way to do it. Could be done with an inductor in series with the short circuiting switch so that the system voltage is brought down to 0v from 600v slow enough (microseconds instead of nano second) to not burn the switching device. Could even have a normally closed SSR do it so that it's automatic with the inverter's supply power.

I've been looking at scenarios where I return or sell the abb inverter (abb/fimer confirmed it doesn't have support for module level RSD) and switch to microinverters but I don't think that makes sense. The AP systems microinverters seem the most economical, but add up to $2000 and then the daisy chain AC cable is another $23 per microinverter. I'm still better off with the big ABB inverter I have.

A part of me just wants to put it together with no RSD but I don't want to have to pull the panels back off and pay for another electrical inspection if he notices/cares.

NEC 2017 is a bit silly if you ask me. Aside from me, none of the firefighters on the depts. covering my area know enough about any of this to be comfortable chopping a hole in a panel for ventilation regardless of what stickers and buttons are around and are just going to steer clear of the panels anyway. NEC 2014 made a lot more sense, unless you're someone at NEC that has a BIL in the MLPE business.
 
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My panels are 40.4v OC, rounded to the nearest volt that's 40 volts so I should be okay with using one RSD module like the outback per 2 panels since the limit is 80 volts that I see, where did you come up with 60 volts?
Faulty memory, perhaps. :) If you see 80, it's 80.

My 72-cell panels have an OC of about 47V, so the 60 vs 80 didn't matter - I needed a device per-panel.

The transmitter can just be powered off the inverter's mains connection so it's automatic, and the transmitter is fairly cheap ~$30 or so.
Probably go this route.
This is how the Tigo module works, too. Feed it such that a single switch kills the power to both the inverter and the injector, and you've met the rule.


Any thoughts on short circuiting and where it would be disallowed in NEC 2017? I can't find any mention on the internets of that idea. Seems like the easiest and in some ways simplest way to do it. Could be done with an inductor in series with the short circuiting switch so that the system voltage is brought down to 0v from 600v slow enough (microseconds instead of nano second) to not burn the switching device. Could even have a normally closed SSR do it so that it's automatic with the inverter's supply power.
So, let's move beyond the thought of whether I think it'll comply.

Where does the juice go when you connect the + and - side of your 400-600V string?

It turns your power leads into a big current sucking resistor - until it melts.

This isn't the 12V 300mw HF panel that keeps your car battery topped off between wheelin' trips.

My first array with used panels had some duds, and I was on the roof pulling and shuffling panels several times as I worked through the problems (likely PID degradation, possibly also water ingress on the backsheet from being stored face down and it raining when I was unstacking the panels and installing them, one or two a night it seemed - when I pulled them out and checked, several had significant voltage leakage to ground which the inverter didn't like).

I would usually disconnect the array in the dark, to reduce the voltage on the overall string at disconnect out of an abundance of caution.

You're talking about purposefully shorting a 400V/10A array. I don't think the results are the same as opening it. It's a lot more like dropping a box-end wrench over the battery terminals than you think..

I've been looking at scenarios where I return or sell the abb inverter (abb/fimer confirmed it doesn't have support for module level RSD) and switch to microinverters but I don't think that makes sense. The AP systems microinverters seem the most economical, but add up to $2000 and then the daisy chain AC cable is another $23 per microinverter. I'm still better off with the big ABB inverter I have.


NEC 2017 is a bit silly if you ask me. Aside from me, none of the firefighters on the depts. covering my area know enough about any of this to be comfortable chopping a hole in a panel for ventilation regardless of what stickers and buttons are around and are just going to steer clear of the panels anyway. NEC 2014 made a lot more sense, unless you're someone at NEC that has a BIL in the MLPE business.

I agree it's silly, and it was why I hurried up and got my first array installed under NEC2014. That, and I wanted to make sure I got grandfathered into the net-metering policy before they changed it.

A year later, I had to do NEC 2017 - just when I thought i had things figured out, they change the game.

I'm a ham radio operator. Micro-inverters sound nice, and maybe they're cost effective, but other hams have told me they generate a lot of RF noise that trashes HF radio operation - and you have 20-40 of them to check and try to choke off or correct or replace, all in close proximity, so finding the offender(s) is a PITA.

String inverters, however, are much better for that - and when they are not, they're easier to identify and rectify. One reason I went with SMA was a good report from other hams of minimal RF interference.

The other being the SPS option, which you can't get with any micro-inverter.

(Technically, the SPS doesn't work under NEC2017 because the inverter won't power up the RS devices, but I added the Tigo injector into the mix, and I can run that from a 12v battery to turn on the panels, so I can then use the SPS. My one NEC2014 install works fine with no difficulties. Our power outages are uncommon, but I can use the SPS to feed a UPS, to run the fan on the gas heater in the garage if I have to.. )

One other gotcha that hit me was (re)reading the specs on my panels, the UL fire rating required a certain distance of stand-of from the roof. A rail system is probably fine. My S5! mounts were too close so I built lift-blocks out of 4x2x.120 aluminum tubing.
 
Faulty memory, perhaps. :) If you see 80, it's 80.

My 72-cell panels have an OC of about 47V, so the 60 vs 80 didn't matter - I needed a device per-panel.


This is how the Tigo module works, too. Feed it such that a single switch kills the power to both the inverter and the injector, and you've met the rule.



So, let's move beyond the thought of whether I think it'll comply.

Where does the juice go when you connect the + and - side of your 400-600V string?

It turns your power leads into a big current sucking resistor - until it melts.

This isn't the 12V 300mw HF panel that keeps your car battery topped off between wheelin' trips.

My first array with used panels had some duds, and I was on the roof pulling and shuffling panels several times as I worked through the problems (likely PID degradation, possibly also water ingress on the backsheet from being stored face down and it raining when I was unstacking the panels and installing them, one or two a night it seemed - when I pulled them out and checked, several had significant voltage leakage to ground which the inverter didn't like).

I would usually disconnect the array in the dark, to reduce the voltage on the overall string at disconnect out of an abundance of caution.

You're talking about purposefully shorting a 400V/10A array. I don't think the results are the same as opening it. It's a lot more like dropping a box-end wrench over the battery terminals than you think..



I agree it's silly, and it was why I hurried up and got my first array installed under NEC2014. That, and I wanted to make sure I got grandfathered into the net-metering policy before they changed it.

A year later, I had to do NEC 2017 - just when I thought i had things figured out, they change the game.

I'm a ham radio operator. Micro-inverters sound nice, and maybe they're cost effective, but other hams have told me they generate a lot of RF noise that trashes HF radio operation - and you have 20-40 of them to check and try to choke off or correct or replace, all in close proximity, so finding the offender(s) is a PITA.

String inverters, however, are much better for that - and when they are not, they're easier to identify and rectify. One reason I went with SMA was a good report from other hams of minimal RF interference.

The other being the SPS option, which you can't get with any micro-inverter.

(Technically, the SPS doesn't work under NEC2017 because the inverter won't power up the RS devices, but I added the Tigo injector into the mix, and I can run that from a 12v battery to turn on the panels, so I can then use the SPS. My one NEC2014 install works fine with no difficulties. Our power outages are uncommon, but I can use the SPS to feed a UPS, to run the fan on the gas heater in the garage if I have to.. )

One other gotcha that hit me was (re)reading the specs on my panels, the UL fire rating required a certain distance of stand-of from the roof. A rail system is probably fine. My S5! mounts were too close so I built lift-blocks out of 4x2x.120 aluminum tubing.
I should be okay with the off the shelf IR stuff to get the 4.5" Trina asks for.

Regarding shorting, it isn't really like dropping a wrench over a battery because a battery has a ton of short circuit current. Panels can only provide 10ish amps no matter how they are loaded and have very little capacitance relatively speaking. If they were shorted out to a reasonably sized inductor (ford starter solenoid, old transformer coil, or something like that) they will all get brought down under 1 volts at 10 amps which the inductor coil should easily be able to sustain.
The only issue I can see is if a conductor is cut anywhere in the series circuit then the voltage potential at the cut becomes the same 500 volts or so, but I don't see that called out in nec2017
 
STILL waiting on most of the panels and all the racking to arrive, hanging ups and shortages, looks like they are going to substitute 330's for half of the 325's I ordered so one of my strings will be 330's.

I did install and properly wire up the inverter to 2017nec code. 225amp main panel with 200 amp main breaker feeding a 125 amp sub panel with 100 amp main breaker that I moved to the bottom of the 200/225 main panel. Inverter fed from 40 amp breaker located in the bottom of the 125 amp sub panel (SB has 100 amp main). 4 8awg THHN conductors run through 1" EMT between the panels.

I then janked together 4 panels in series with PV cable run into the inverter to test it out. Everything seems to work well. My only complaint is the noise from the inverter. Standing next to it when there is enough sunshine to turn on and feedback power it emits a 16.5khz whine, somewhat like an old CRT TV. It's not terribly loud, likely below the 50db limit they state in the manual but it is annoying after a while to stand next to while in the garage. It's mounted on a concrete block wall which certainly amplifies it. Can't hear it in the house at all, but if I'm working in the garage on a sunny day (unlikely) and don't have the radio on, it's going to be annoying to me.

The noise combined with the rapid shutdown needs has me questioning not going with microinverters. It would have been more expensive by $1000, maybe I'll just plan on turning off the string inverter when I'm in the garage. From what I'm reading, all string inverters have similar noise they put off but some people (worn out ears) can't hear it. tsm1mt do you notice the SMA's you have making a high pitched noise when standing next to them?
 
Nothing to add, but I am like you in that noises like that will piss me off. I have a buzzing high bay transformer that is pissing me off fierce but it's above my drag car on the lift and it will be a 6 hour project to get the car down to be able to reach it with a ladder.:mad3:
 
I decided not to get creative with my NEC2017 compliance and order 12 FRS-01 firehawks, a switch, and a couple pigtails ~$750. Found 10 of the firehawks on ebay for $40 which helped. This is going to push my payback period out another 6-months or so and made my wife a bit more skeptical of the whole project.
 
So just curious of yall who have gone through inspections and the like. I can't find anything in local code that would require me to do any type of plan review or inspection for a non-grid tie system. I was looking at hybrid inverter, so the only connection to mains is a draw only connection.

Due to the terrible buyback rate here all the calculators are showing a 20 year payback of -$8000. But I have a ton of free batteries and would like the redundancy for a few key systems.
 
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