What's new

Refreshing the 4700 LPX with a bigger intercooler and Radiator

ANGRYBLACK

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
250
Messages
295
Loc
NJ NY
After sitting for years I am going to put "Hoss" back to work, time to get the truck drivable again and a few things fixed. The running joke between a friend and I is that I still use it twice a year. From one end of the driveway to the other to block the house view in the fall and winter.:homer:
Yard Drivable is best put it.

WP_20150918_001.jpg


As it sits now its a 253" W/B with 19,400 lbs leafs, AT542/DT444e 170 HP combo. Things id like to fix before it leaves the driveway is the front axle weight. It's 7400 ish IIRC on an 8K spicer. So fuel needs to go back towards the box, and the NYC Style Bumper can go. It's probably 200 lbs. Made it from all 1/4" thick square tube, .120 wall DOM and heavy C channel.

I'm going to give the Ebay 2 row Full Radiator a go. I have been fighting heat shed issue's ever since we got this truck. Basic IH to run away from. Mid 97s 4700 LPX Short Nose. The build is at the old place. The heat issue are taken care of after some vent holes and lifted the cab/sleeper 7". But the rad has seen better days and after living through a full on 1/2 lbs or more of pepper in it to clog a tube leak, then getting rodded out, I knew it was gonna be done. Fast forward 5 years or so it fell apart when i pulled it out. The cooling fins were rotten so it now sits in the scrap bin.

Figuring that i have some extra room, I need a bigger intercooler. Well maybe not but the old one won't fit with cutting up end tanks. Aftermarket and The biggest i can find is the way to go.

Here> China Rad

It is supposed to be a direct replacement for the 3800 rad but the transmission cooler fittings are on the opposite side and one is too close to place a 90* adapter on but i had the proper fitting in my Misc. Fittings Drawer. I liked the fittings on the backside of the rad too. Easy peasy. It drops right in. It's 2" shorter so silicone extensions on teh outlets gets it done.
4f155cc0-9484-4e1e-91f1-d73d8576f1b7.jpg


Ø Specification
Fits for Automatic & Manual Transmission Models :

● International Harvester 2300 3000 3600 3800 4900
-Core Size : 30 7/8" x 26" x 1 7/8"
-Core Count : 2 Rows
-Overall Size : 39 3/8" x 30 3/8" x 4 3/8"
-Inlet&Outlet Diameter : both 2 1/2"
Ø Features
-100% TIG-welded end tanks & brazed All T-3003 Aluminum Alloy core.
-Improves Cooling by 30 - 45% and improve heat exchange compared to OEM.
-Made of High Quality Full T-3003 Aluminum Construction.
-Super light weight design reduces the weight compared to the OEM radiator.


The young China Welder does about as good as I with a Tig.:beer: It held 80 psi@ 8 Hrs so i dropped it in.

I chased down a factory full sized 3800 Charge air cooler and when i returned it had a forklift hole in the tubes. Not one to pass up a cheap deal I pulled a 2" core cooler from a chevy 7500 with a C7 Cat. It is a touch larger than the hard to locate Pro Star/8100 Horizontal cooler I planned to use. I will definitely need to cut out a few inches of the inner hood structure because of the short nose hood being 4" shorter. I'm keeping the short nose hood until i can find a school bus hood that I use.

20240927_205443.jpg


I plan to get the larger CAC mounted in front of the Rad with 1/2" of clearance.

This is what Ebay says for the new CAC specs.

Charge Air Cooler Fits Chevy GMC Topkick Kodiak Models 1030072 1030053 52461290​


Item Details
Core Height
(Between side tanks)​
34-7/8"​
Core Width (Fin area only)​
26-1/4"​
Thickness​
1-11/16"​
Inlet Neck​
3-3/8"​
Outlet Neck​
3-3/8"​
Material​
Aluminum​

AS typical GM of the era, they just squeeze it between 2 rubber isolator pads.

A few other things to add will be swapping out the rear leafs (1 second main is broken in 3) with an Low Pro IH air ride that has been sitting waiting to go in. I will have to weld an axle Torque rod mount on (have one from a freightliner that i will cut up and fit) and figure out the axle torque rod length, and bushing angle. Ideally I would get the IH LPX/LP axle mount that runs a huge Tie rod end but couldn't find a new one. The Low Pro frames are less tall than other trucks and utilize shorter suspension brackets specific to the chassis. Front and rear. I expect to either cut away 50% of the freightliner mount. Use the upper mounting holes in the IH Chassis bracket to hopefully get a 30* axle bushing angle and 0 at the frame, Or vise versa. I see Torque rods with 30* being the most common of the 14"-24" length. Hendrickson can build what I need if i cant find something shelf available.

The rest of it should bolt right on since the bolt holes are already on the frame.
IMG_0093.JPG


The rest of it is boring stuff like 235/80-22.5 Michelins to replace the front 255/70 Triangles, and used "what the fuck ever you got used that won't get me an out of service for $80 Poppy rears", front and rear brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, caliper rebuilds/replacement, KingPins, Leaf spring Bushings and cleaning out the fuel system. And a new fuel tank moved to the Drivers side. Some rust repair as expected on the rear of the Sleeper/Cab Subframe along with relocating the Airbags inboard to make room for the fuel tank to go under the sleeper.

One of the North Jersey Rigging Og's Handed over an unused 22" early 70s Snyder tank. 70 gallons from a project that he never got to. Delivering it in a 60s Brokaway with a Cumming 350 was pretty gangster to me!:beer:

There will be some Hackery to the Rectangle tank brackets to hold the round tank at the edge of the sleeper. and away from the frame to clear the Sleeper Subframe. Its gonna be super low like a car carrier because LPX and Small tires.
 

Attachments

  • WP_20150917_004.jpg
    WP_20150917_004.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Im putting my hands on it soon. Once the wifes wagon is done. I'm eager to get it off the trailer and clean it up. Its super roughly built but works like a champ. It will be yard art before the wife lets me sell it. I have never ever heard my wife ever call me :mr-t: in Anger, but she did that night.:lmao:
 
Im putting my hands on it soon. Once the wifes wagon is done. I'm eager to get it off the trailer and clean it up. It’s super roughly built but works like a champ. It will be yard art before the wife lets me sell it. I have never ever heard my wife ever call me :mr-t: in Anger, but she did that night.:lmao:
Angryblack called :mr-t: by Mrs Angryblack…more at 10.

I’ve always like this truck when I saw it posted but I know I wouldnt use it much with the ambulance body so I’ve considered building what you have but with a flat bed or rollback
 
Im putting my hands on it soon. Once the wifes wagon is done. I'm eager to get it off the trailer and clean it up. Its super roughly built but works like a champ. It will be yard art before the wife lets me sell it. I have never ever heard my wife ever call me :mr-t: in Anger, but she did that night.:lmao:

Nice! I'm pretty sure I was at Rousch Creek the first time you took it out after finishing it. Myself and my buddies were tripping out seeing a fullsize truck popping out of the trails randomly.:laughing: Myself and my buddy Jamie drooled on it for a bit when you had it parked at camp. It was very cool to see an internet build that we both followed out in the wild running trails. :smokin:

Edit: I think you were pulling it with a U-Haul back then. Same truck?
 
Nah, New truck. That truck dropped a Rod a few months after you saw it in NC. A tow guy promised to charge me his yard rate for storage when i come back for that bed. As usual after he 1st picked up the phone and found out it was me calling he never picked up after that. So we grabbed this and built it.
 
Last edited:
Angryblack called :mr-t: by Mrs Angryblack…more at 10.

I’ve always like this truck when I saw it posted but I know I wouldnt use it much with the ambulance body so I’ve considered building what you have but with a flat bed or rollback
Thanks, Find a truck and get your hard parts together. When you ready to rough it all together give me a shout! I'd be happy to put in some labor to get you where you want it to be
 
Squeezing round tanks on a low pro truck is not ideal. But I aimed for 12" of clearance winding up with 11". The muffler is next to the tank and sits at 13". I'm crossing my fingers and adding composite deck boards between the tank mounts as skid plates. Im thinking its a cheap insurance.

I gained an 1.25" when I made saddles for the tank from some 3/8" thick half round tubes I saved. Repaired a few cracks in the brackets and made some ghetto 2" straps from 304 Stainless steel. Next time around im making them 4" wide from thinner than 3/16". I hope one day these will brush finish up decently.
Once you dump the sleeper bags you can't get the tank filler open so it will stay under the sleeper for now. I estimate 860 miles between full ups so it shouldn't bother me.

20240924_164340.jpg

20241001_153459 (1).jpg

The High lift is holding up the sleeper because the bags are cut out. Up next is getting the battery tray to the passenger side and further back. Then repair the rear section of the sleeper subframe. It needs to get cut out and the Shock and bag mounts incorporated into it. I priced out the cost of metal from my local place for .120" tubing.:shaking:

In addition to adjusting the steering gear sector shaft. Again, because it's an LPX, The steering gear has to come off the truck because it too is raised and the adjustment bolt is blocked by the upper frame web.:laughing: then i can slap on the New Draglink and Delrin shackle side Spring bushings I made years ago.
 
Last edited:
I used some Flat Bar to hang the CAC off the Rad support. Raised the Hood supports cutting off a ghetto torch bracket i made before, Added some Vertical Strut Rods and roughed in the Nose Alignment. It took some trimming to the inner nose structure to fit. I don't think i can get more frontal area in there that's usable.

I have to turn this thing around and move my trailer to start on the rear suspension and Sleeper subframe.

20241009_162052.jpg

20241009_162129.jpg
 
Replace your Battery Cables folks.The IDM Injector voltage codes and they went away with new battery cables. Last i remember i was cleaning battery terminals every month. Because the corrosion is deep. And it was.

International calls for 3/0 12v feed and 2/0 for the chassis ground along with 1/0 battery connecting leads. Not sure WTF this truck has had going on but there were 2 seperate 1ga. + leads and a ground. Not sure why or what on that. My train of thought on DC is always the same Gauge in and out. So i cut all that out to start fresh.

The remaining wires will get some oven cleaner then some Electricduct spiral conduit to hold them.
20241016_084144.jpg


I also wanted to move the Battery tray to the passenger side. I'd rather jump off from the curb side and IH runs the heavy wire under the bellhousing across over to the starter. Along with the Hot leads and Grounds in the picture above. Usually right next to the Transmission Oil cooler lines ties up with the same rubber coated metal hose/wire clamps. I relocated the cooler lines above the trans and along the frame years ago after this truck almost became 4700 #6 that i have know to burn down from this IH Fuckaree:shaking:.

Being cheap I wound up with 4/0 MSHA rated positive cable from the Starter to the Battery Union. 4/0 Gauge from the starter to the frame rail, then 4/0 from the Battery union terminal to the frame. Extended the 2 power leads and ground lead that run to the battery. then made enough 3/0 Jumper leads because i ran out of 4/0 cable. After this the truck starts up better on 2 batteries ( I know i need 3). I'm planning to run 3 group 31s for the truck and have space for 3 additional group 31s for future use if need be.

Tedious slow work making cables. Lots of Dielectric terminal gell, 3-1 heat shrink, terminals and razor blades.

Still working on it all and will tie it down once i know what else all is going to run down the frame rail.
20241016_084124.jpg


I've been chasing down Trouble codes. A few IDM voltage issues and an ICP code.
A lot less codes on the truck now. I knew most of them were wire related. 2 Burned fusible links, a few wires below that dragged on the ground for a bit when the zip ties failed. Got all that replaced and repaired. I also completely disassembled all the ground points, cleaned the oxidation off and got some connector gel on them and the raw steel.

For now I am getting a 332 Code for the ICP voltage low. I can't get the breakout box anymore and don't have a way to scan this thing so its engine lamp flashes and the Service Manual. Yesterday I verified 5 volts and the proper terminal resistance. At one point I had an Open connection at one of the terminals and believe I found it with a worn terminal lead. I plan on replacing the terminals and plug today since i have a few spares.
I hope it's just air in the system. I'm Trying to locate an actual Ford 3cz ICP sensor and may just go to a ford dealer to get one. Last thing i want is to fork over cash for a knockoff.

Both IH Sensor and the Ford China Replacement perform the same. When I swapped them back and forth
Mind you, this is right after the entire Fuel system was drained except for what was already past the filter housing. So far I haven't run it much because most tell me that I have to load the engine up for while to get the air out and the code may be from the air in the fuel system and/or the HPOP reservoir needs the air bled from it. the oil level is easy but the truck needs the rear leaf spring taken care of before i start driving it. So if its air I am chasing it will have to wait.

What i do know is If i start the truck with 40% throttle then it fires up without the ICP code thrown and runs fine. Once it starts and I let off the throttle after 5-10 seconds it runs just fine and no engine warning lamp. Revs super sharp and does not have an Idle Lope. If i start it without any accelerator pedal the 332 code pops up. There was a thread here that someone cleaned out their fuel bowl and whatnot that helped me get this truck running better and the fuel issues sorted out. I'm gonna go back and reread that one along with the 7.3 thread again to see if i can confirm that its air in the system or should i keep digging deeper into the wiring of the truck.

Any insight here will be appreciated

The wife is ready to pull the trigger on the Power Hungry Performance software and some stage 1 injectors. Once i get a few hundred miles on this stuff without codes or issues that may be purchased and installed before the end of the year. I'm gonna need it to raise the rev limit, top speed and a few more HP.
 
I replaced the leaking Hydrobooster and master cylinder. Flushed out the brake fluid again and also replaced the 3" downpipe and exhaust with 4" from the turbo to the output shaft of the transmission.
Now that Turbo outlet housing's are cheap, I had no regrets welding the SCH. 160 pipe section to the outlet and then to a V band clamp.:homer: I fused the tubing on the inside with the tig and goobered it up with some 308LSI and argon in the mig on the outside. Once it gets past the transmission, it turns into 5" with a stock Class 8 muffler. It doesn't sound any louder at idle and I hope it helps keep the EGTS down. Lower EGTS are the goal. IIRC the muffler is for an N14 truck so it should be much of a restriction.


I got the faulty Battery Isolator off yesterday.:homer: And installed a cheap EGT gauge off Amazon today. Grease Nipples make for impromptu 1/8 npt plugs. Or to grease the Muffler Bearings:laughing:

I think that is all the mechanicals that i wanted to address.
20241023_211816.jpg



Used a foot of metal from Dethmacinefab to make the new subframe airbag mounts. These will get partially painted then welded onto the subframe with some scab plates.

Bolting the sway bar endlinks to the frame, attaching the Limit straps, Lower and upper shock mounts and the lower bag mounts up next.

20241027_105909.jpg

20241027_112003.jpg
 
I got the sleeper/cab airbags moved to the rear. My Maths was off about 1/2 psi. The smaller 2500 Lbs bags need 38.5 psi over the 2600 lbs bags needing 27. The travel takes the hit here as it goes from 7" to a usable 5. Not sure if i will just put the GM Van front shocks back on or get something else. I also connected the sway bar that i had from a something or another. IIRC it's a smallish 7/8" bar. I bolted the links as far back as i could get them. Seems to work.
I have the Upper Shock tabs cut and cleaned up. When I commit to whether or not to keep the old chevy van front shocks that are close or get some Bilstein 5100s
20241107_192324.jpg


I also added the 3rd battery after charging it up. Time to drain the transmission fluid and get some fresh oil in it. Turn this thing around nd crib it up to replace the broken rear leaf spring with the Air ride suspension.

I probably shoulda painted it weeks ago but most likely the entire bottom end will get some rustoleum after a solid bath in oven cleaner and a pressure wash. I hope to get this thing going down the road in a few weeks.
 
Thanks.

The rear suspension should be the last mechanical issue that I need to get done.
I'm going to go through everything today to ensure i have it all. That and work on the work plan.

I think that it is best to get the panhard welded to the axle and the bar mounted up at ride height with the leafs. Then Crib it up on the wheels, Crib the axle back at ride height then just swap everything over. I have to move one crossmember back at the front leaf brackets. So i can't swap one side at a time.
 
Top Back Refresh