ANGRYBLACK
Well-known member
After sitting for years I am going to put "Hoss" back to work, time to get the truck drivable again and a few things fixed. The running joke between a friend and I is that I still use it twice a year. From one end of the driveway to the other to block the house view in the fall and winter.
Yard Drivable is best put it.
As it sits now its a 253" W/B with 19,400 lbs leafs, AT542/DT444e 170 HP combo. Things id like to fix before it leaves the driveway is the front axle weight. It's 7400 ish IIRC on an 8K spicer. So fuel needs to go back towards the box, and the NYC Style Bumper can go. It's probably 200 lbs. Made it from all 1/4" thick square tube, .120 wall DOM and heavy C channel.
I'm going to give the Ebay 2 row Full Radiator a go. I have been fighting heat shed issue's ever since we got this truck. Basic IH to run away from. Mid 97s 4700 LPX Short Nose. The build is at the old place. The heat issue are taken care of after some vent holes and lifted the cab/sleeper 7". But the rad has seen better days and after living through a full on 1/2 lbs or more of pepper in it to clog a tube leak, then getting rodded out, I knew it was gonna be done. Fast forward 5 years or so it fell apart when i pulled it out. The cooling fins were rotten so it now sits in the scrap bin.
Figuring that i have some extra room, I need a bigger intercooler. Well maybe not but the old one won't fit with cutting up end tanks. Aftermarket and The biggest i can find is the way to go.
Here> China Rad
It is supposed to be a direct replacement for the 3800 rad but the transmission cooler fittings are on the opposite side and one is too close to place a 90* adapter on but i had the proper fitting in my Misc. Fittings Drawer. I liked the fittings on the backside of the rad too. Easy peasy. It drops right in. It's 2" shorter so silicone extensions on teh outlets gets it done.
The young China Welder does about as good as I with a Tig. It held 80 psi@ 8 Hrs so i dropped it in.
I chased down a factory full sized 3800 Charge air cooler and when i returned it had a forklift hole in the tubes. Not one to pass up a cheap deal I pulled a 2" core cooler from a chevy 7500 with a C7 Cat. It is a touch larger than the hard to locate Pro Star/8100 Horizontal cooler I planned to use. I will definitely need to cut out a few inches of the inner hood structure because of the short nose hood being 4" shorter. I'm keeping the short nose hood until i can find a school bus hood that I use.
I plan to get the larger CAC mounted in front of the Rad with 1/2" of clearance.
This is what Ebay says for the new CAC specs.
AS typical GM of the era, they just squeeze it between 2 rubber isolator pads.
A few other things to add will be swapping out the rear leafs (1 second main is broken in 3) with an Low Pro IH air ride that has been sitting waiting to go in. I will have to weld an axle Torque rod mount on (have one from a freightliner that i will cut up and fit) and figure out the axle torque rod length, and bushing angle. Ideally I would get the IH LPX/LP axle mount that runs a huge Tie rod end but couldn't find a new one. The Low Pro frames are less tall than other trucks and utilize shorter suspension brackets specific to the chassis. Front and rear. I expect to either cut away 50% of the freightliner mount. Use the upper mounting holes in the IH Chassis bracket to hopefully get a 30* axle bushing angle and 0 at the frame, Or vise versa. I see Torque rods with 30* being the most common of the 14"-24" length. Hendrickson can build what I need if i cant find something shelf available.
The rest of it should bolt right on since the bolt holes are already on the frame.
The rest of it is boring stuff like 235/80-22.5 Michelins to replace the front 255/70 Triangles, and used "what the fuck ever you got used that won't get me an out of service for $80 Poppy rears", front and rear brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, caliper rebuilds/replacement, KingPins, Leaf spring Bushings and cleaning out the fuel system. And a new fuel tank moved to the Drivers side. Some rust repair as expected on the rear of the Sleeper/Cab Subframe along with relocating the Airbags inboard to make room for the fuel tank to go under the sleeper.
One of the North Jersey Rigging Og's Handed over an unused 22" early 70s Snyder tank. 70 gallons from a project that he never got to. Delivering it in a 60s Brokaway with a Cumming 350 was pretty gangster to me!
There will be some Hackery to the Rectangle tank brackets to hold the round tank at the edge of the sleeper. and away from the frame to clear the Sleeper Subframe. Its gonna be super low like a car carrier because LPX and Small tires.
Yard Drivable is best put it.
As it sits now its a 253" W/B with 19,400 lbs leafs, AT542/DT444e 170 HP combo. Things id like to fix before it leaves the driveway is the front axle weight. It's 7400 ish IIRC on an 8K spicer. So fuel needs to go back towards the box, and the NYC Style Bumper can go. It's probably 200 lbs. Made it from all 1/4" thick square tube, .120 wall DOM and heavy C channel.
I'm going to give the Ebay 2 row Full Radiator a go. I have been fighting heat shed issue's ever since we got this truck. Basic IH to run away from. Mid 97s 4700 LPX Short Nose. The build is at the old place. The heat issue are taken care of after some vent holes and lifted the cab/sleeper 7". But the rad has seen better days and after living through a full on 1/2 lbs or more of pepper in it to clog a tube leak, then getting rodded out, I knew it was gonna be done. Fast forward 5 years or so it fell apart when i pulled it out. The cooling fins were rotten so it now sits in the scrap bin.
Figuring that i have some extra room, I need a bigger intercooler. Well maybe not but the old one won't fit with cutting up end tanks. Aftermarket and The biggest i can find is the way to go.
Here> China Rad
It is supposed to be a direct replacement for the 3800 rad but the transmission cooler fittings are on the opposite side and one is too close to place a 90* adapter on but i had the proper fitting in my Misc. Fittings Drawer. I liked the fittings on the backside of the rad too. Easy peasy. It drops right in. It's 2" shorter so silicone extensions on teh outlets gets it done.
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The young China Welder does about as good as I with a Tig. It held 80 psi@ 8 Hrs so i dropped it in.
I chased down a factory full sized 3800 Charge air cooler and when i returned it had a forklift hole in the tubes. Not one to pass up a cheap deal I pulled a 2" core cooler from a chevy 7500 with a C7 Cat. It is a touch larger than the hard to locate Pro Star/8100 Horizontal cooler I planned to use. I will definitely need to cut out a few inches of the inner hood structure because of the short nose hood being 4" shorter. I'm keeping the short nose hood until i can find a school bus hood that I use.
I plan to get the larger CAC mounted in front of the Rad with 1/2" of clearance.
This is what Ebay says for the new CAC specs.
Charge Air Cooler Fits Chevy GMC Topkick Kodiak Models 1030072 1030053 52461290
Item Details
Core Height (Between side tanks) | 34-7/8" |
Core Width (Fin area only) | 26-1/4" |
Thickness | 1-11/16" |
Inlet Neck | 3-3/8" |
Outlet Neck | 3-3/8" |
Material | Aluminum |
AS typical GM of the era, they just squeeze it between 2 rubber isolator pads.
A few other things to add will be swapping out the rear leafs (1 second main is broken in 3) with an Low Pro IH air ride that has been sitting waiting to go in. I will have to weld an axle Torque rod mount on (have one from a freightliner that i will cut up and fit) and figure out the axle torque rod length, and bushing angle. Ideally I would get the IH LPX/LP axle mount that runs a huge Tie rod end but couldn't find a new one. The Low Pro frames are less tall than other trucks and utilize shorter suspension brackets specific to the chassis. Front and rear. I expect to either cut away 50% of the freightliner mount. Use the upper mounting holes in the IH Chassis bracket to hopefully get a 30* axle bushing angle and 0 at the frame, Or vise versa. I see Torque rods with 30* being the most common of the 14"-24" length. Hendrickson can build what I need if i cant find something shelf available.
The rest of it should bolt right on since the bolt holes are already on the frame.
The rest of it is boring stuff like 235/80-22.5 Michelins to replace the front 255/70 Triangles, and used "what the fuck ever you got used that won't get me an out of service for $80 Poppy rears", front and rear brakes, rotors, wheel bearings, caliper rebuilds/replacement, KingPins, Leaf spring Bushings and cleaning out the fuel system. And a new fuel tank moved to the Drivers side. Some rust repair as expected on the rear of the Sleeper/Cab Subframe along with relocating the Airbags inboard to make room for the fuel tank to go under the sleeper.
One of the North Jersey Rigging Og's Handed over an unused 22" early 70s Snyder tank. 70 gallons from a project that he never got to. Delivering it in a 60s Brokaway with a Cumming 350 was pretty gangster to me!
There will be some Hackery to the Rectangle tank brackets to hold the round tank at the edge of the sleeper. and away from the frame to clear the Sleeper Subframe. Its gonna be super low like a car carrier because LPX and Small tires.
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