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Redneck turning brakes.

Scooterloo

Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
651
Messages
21
Floating ideas on a future build. Toyota based light weight buggy. Mostly trail riding and rocks, no cone dodging. 2014 Tacoma rear axle. Why couldn't one utilize the E brake cables as turning brakes if not used often? On a super light rig they would grab plenty. Fabbing up levers with the right geometry and modifying the stock cables to work is probably more of a PITA and cheaper than just buying regular turning brakes, but this is Irate, where the junkyard builders at?
 
Depends on the brakes imo. I tried vw calipers where the e brake applies mechanical pressure to the pads. It'll hold the car when parked but there's not enough brake power to lock aired down 35"s
 
Only related because of misuse of the E brake. But I had a 2wd 83 diesel suburban for my first rig. I drilled a small hole in the E brake release lever and ran a bungie cord from that hole up to one of the many holes in the dash. Brake would auto release that way. Used it in snow driving, was a fucking blast once I figured it out.
 
Not sure how the 2nd Gen Taco cables are set up, but if you have two cables going to the level I could see it kinda working. Old VW bugs did this exact thing and it was 50/50.

Just fab the longest levers you can for more mechanical advantage and give 'er a try. New shoes and drums would probably help too. Not sure how it would work in the wet though as drums usually need a good revolution or two to dry off, but that'll depend on where you wheel.
 
I think it would be equally difficult but better results to just get a couple cheapo "drift brake" master cylinders and make the steering linkage also push on them. Maybe put a valve spring or something in the mix so that you can swap that out in order to tune how hard the brake applies.
 
Electronic parking brake calipers. Independent switches for left and right calipers. Toggle switch like a winch for on and off. It’s what I am planning on my current build
 
Wouldn’t it be easier just to use two electric line locks... one for each tire...

Hit brakes, apply lock for the tire you want to stay locked, profit?
 
[memphis] said:
Electronic parking brake calipers. Independent switches for left and right calipers. Toggle switch like a winch for on and off. It’s what I am planning on my current build
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A quick google showed Wilwoods at about $650 for the pair, plus my axle is drum that would have to be converted also. Care to share what calipers you plan to use?
 
rockota said:
Wouldn’t it be easier just to use two electric line locks... one for each tire...

Hit brakes, apply lock for the tire you want to stay locked, profit?
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I like that too, can be used as parking brake temporarily also, eliminating the cables altogether.
 
rockyota83 said:
thats too easy and cheap :laughing:
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Depends on how you are using it. Cable or hydraulic can be used on the fly, like a turning brake or front dig. the line lock you have to stop, brake, engage, etc. not so easy depending on you goals.
 
Scooterloo said:
A quick google showed Wilwoods at about $650 for the pair, plus my axle is drum that would have to be converted also. Care to share what calipers you plan to use?
Click to expand...
audi Gm and some fords have electric park brakes, I think the electric is dumb and wont apply enough holding pressure, most console mounted handbrakes have two cables right under the carpet. could also use air, hydro or linear actuators for what you have now.
 
Scooterloo said:
Depends on how you are using it. Cable or hydraulic can be used on the fly, like a turning brake or front dig. the line lock you have to stop, brake, engage, etc. not so easy depending on you goals.
Click to expand...
correct but it also depends how you set them up and how you use them, you can lock all the line locks(before applying the brakes) except one and then when you apply the brakes only the one left open will get any braking power giving you the ability to do it slightly on the fly, obviously not as fast as a hand brake but still an option for on and off slow technical use
 
Scooterloo said:
A quick google showed Wilwoods at about $650 for the pair, plus my axle is drum that would have to be converted also. Care to share what calipers you plan to use?
Click to expand...
VW with electric parking brakes, $138: Amazon.com

Just not sure if they have the clamping force needed for the average trail rig.
 
Ford Fusion, Edge etc.
I have been playing with my new work car. The electronic brake will stop the car from 25kph
 
With how cheap hand cutting brake set ups are, I don't see why you would.

The drum ebrakes work well for a while, then get out of adjustment and suck. Use the hydraulic pressure not cables.

Quick search shows 2 handle for ~$160 and single handle a little less.
 
Why not look into a rotor on the t-case rear drive shaft and run a mechanical caliper. Then it doesn’t need to be super strong because I’m sure you’re running 5.29s. That was my thought for my samurai
 
Scooterloo said:
Depends on how you are using it. Cable or hydraulic can be used on the fly, like a turning brake or front dig. the line lock you have to stop, brake, engage, etc. not so easy depending on you goals.
Click to expand...
Shut the line you don't want to engage while moving, then apply the brakes?
 
arse_sidewards said:
I think it would be equally difficult but better results to just get a couple cheapo "drift brake" master cylinders and make the steering linkage also push on them. Maybe put a valve spring or something in the mix so that you can swap that out in order to tune how hard the brake applies.
Click to expand...
Double hoon handles 👌
 
FlatLander said:
Shut the line you don't want to engage while moving, then apply the brakes?
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Prezactly. This is how we set them up. If I wanna apply steering brake turning right I'll flip the switch to the right to actuate the left side line locker shutting out the left side brakes and mash the pedal.
With a little practice you can do this almost seamlessly and get a real nice flow to it even for throwing the car in power turns.
 
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