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Recommendation on Floor Coating?

Captain

Obvious
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Searched and didn't see much on this topic

What's everyone recommend for floor coatings for their rigs?

Carpet has been removed from mine and won't be going back in.

Potential candidates:
-Truck bed coating - I've heard not good for enclosed rigs due to chemical smell(?)
-POR15 with some rubber Mats on top?
-lizard skin - any good? anyone with first hand experience?
-what else?

For my application it will need to be able to handle water/mud. Heat and noise suppression would be a great plus

What does Irate recommend? Thanks
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I did Lizard Skin in my 86 K10. I actually put a layer of Kilmat under it first. Sprayed the heat control and sound control over that. Eventually put carpet over top of it, but in the year I daily drove it before that, it held up great. Would have no issues doing it as just a top coating.

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I used a product called Bond Plex. I used it on the roof and floor of my burb. Im a residential commercial painter and we used this on the outside of metal buildings roof and walls.
Only pic I have is when it put it on top though. Got it tinted to whatever color I want. Works for me.
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Edit- its under carpet and pad so I cant speak on abrasion resistance for this product fyi
 
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I know the Toyota Tacoma guys rave about the rock auto pre cut vinyl floor covering. I'm seriously considering ditching my carpet for it.
 
Marked for future use, two square body trucks that will need this in time.
 
I bought vinyl from Rock Auto for my Tacoma and it works/fits great. Way quieter/cooler than the bedliner that was in before and doesn't accumulate crap like carpet does. Unfortunately it doesn't look like they sell it for an 80.

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I did Herculiner many years ago in my truggy. It did stink for awhile it wasn't bad but it was thick so it took awhile to dry. I did end up putting my floor mats on top of it. My buggy has grip tape on the aluminum floors, K.I.S.S.
 
I've done home grown bedliner and pro bedliner it two first gen 4runner dedicated trail rigs, one ended up with bath mats as floor mats, the other ended up with porch mats. in the sand and rocks i needed something to catch all that sand and grit.


Just my 02
 
Anyone come up with a good way to fill the trench by the door sill that many/most bodies have without creating a massive rust magnet? Being able to pull the floor mats and brush things out would be a huge improvement.
 
Good info. Anyone else have first hand experience?

I think I'm leaning on going to just POR15 the metal...then put something like this down:


A bit pricey for my liking...but appears to do exactly what I'm after...sound+heat reduction...waterproof...

Couldn't find a pre-cut vinyl floor for my 2nd gen tracker...

This place does sell the vinyl flooring material by the yard:
 
Real happy with the Al's Liner I did in my TJ. I stripped everything out, plugged all the holes, I prepped, prepped, and then prepped some more. The tub got a coat of Summit Racing 2K epoxy primer, then Al's HNR, then Al's liner adhesion promoter, then Al's liner. The HNR is a waste of time and money, I won't do that again. The liner has held up great though, very happy with it.

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Explain the HNR waste of time if you will please.

I've always wondered about why two products on top of each other ever since I looked into upol raptor or maybe it was lizard skin.

Heat layer and then a noise layer...
Wouldn't a heat layer put on thicker reduce noise anyhow.

Like the two tone btw. Once I get to that stage I'll probably do color match. I'm over black liner and black wheels now.
 
Explain the HNR waste of time if you will please.

I've always wondered about why two products on top of each other ever since I looked into upol raptor or maybe it was lizard skin.

Heat layer and then a noise layer...
Wouldn't a heat layer put on thicker reduce noise anyhow.

Like the two tone btw. Once I get to that stage I'll probably do color match. I'm over black liner and black wheels now.
There may be products that works, but Al's doesn't do jack for heat. Al's HNR is micro beads suspended in latex, they recommend applying 31 Mils thick. I put it on at least as thick as recommended, a little more than recommended in the hot spots, i.e. front foot wells and transmission tunnel.

It might reduce noise, who knows it's a soft top Jeep on offroad tires, it's not a quiet vehicle, I couldn't tell a difference.

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I measured before and after temps of my Jeep's floor, ambient temperature and the Jeep's surface temperature were roughly the same, before I let the Jeep idle for approximately 30 minutes and then checked temperature, before and after applying Al's HNR & Al's Liner.

Max temp of 136.5° F before coating, 133° F after coating, and the Harbor Freight thermometer I measured with has a margin of error of +/- 2% so in reality I could be seeing less than 1% lower temps than before coating.

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I used the LizardSkin version on heat control. Their other coating is marketed as a sound control.

I've got no A-B comparison though. Only applied the heat stuff on the bottom, underneath the cab, followed by the sound stuff. Only used the sound stuff in the cab along with the Kilmat.

I've got no issues with heat from exhaust or transmission coming into the cab. In fact it's the quietest square body I've ever ridden in.
 
I've always used tractor and implement paint from tractor supply. Cheap and forgiving to someone who doesn't know dick about painting.
 
I used the LizardSkin version on heat control. Their other coating is marketed as a sound control.

I've got no A-B comparison though. Only applied the heat stuff on the bottom, underneath the cab, followed by the sound stuff. Only used the sound stuff in the cab along with the Kilmat.

I've got no issues with heat from exhaust or transmission coming into the cab. In fact it's the quietest square body I've ever ridden in.
I can see that angle working well. Heat on exterior, since that's where it's coming from. Sound on interior. So you've got 3 layers then since you did it over kilmat!? I'd hope it's the quietest, what about weight? How much did those 3 layers add?
 
I can see that angle working well. Heat on exterior, since that's where it's coming from. Sound on interior. So you've got 3 layers then since you did it over kilmat!? I'd hope it's the quietest, what about weight? How much did those 3 layers add?

The floor and firewall have 4 layers all together. From the bottom up, heat control, sound control, floor, Kilmat then sound control again. I also did the rear wall on the inside with Kilmat and sound control. Eventually I added a new firewall pad and some ACC brand carpet with a thick jute backing.

Overall I'd say I added less than 75lbs of extra material to the cab. Not including the firewall pad and carpet. I also loaded the doors up with Kilmat, they shut with a nice thud now. Not at all tin can sounding.

I built the truck as a "daily driver" and was focused on comfort over longer drives. That said, it was still almost a year before the carpet went in. In that time the interior coatings held up just fine and sound levels were very reasonable. The carpet took it to a whole nother level though.
 
How do these options look after a few wheeling trips? Hit it with a shop vac and a damp cloth and it looks OK, or does it need to be pressure washed because dirt sticks to it?

This is a wheeler, and currently had just the factory painted floor, which doesn't really bother me. If I'm gonna put a bunch of work into coating it, it would be nice if it didn't perpetually look like shit.
 
How do these options look after a few wheeling trips? Hit it with a shop vac and a damp cloth and it looks OK, or does it need to be pressure washed because dirt sticks to it?

This is a wheeler, and currently had just the factory painted floor, which doesn't really bother me. If I'm gonna put a bunch of work into coating it, it would be nice if it didn't perpetually look like shit.
What would be the reason for a coating in your truck?
 
Got another low buck recommendation. What about clearance price RV roof coating when it gets out of season? Shits pretty tough and made to seal and act as a thermal barrier. Is there a good reason not to?
 
What would be the reason for a coating in your truck?

A little more finished look, it goes with the fenders I haven't installed.

A little quieter, not so much from road noise, but from shit sliding around, rattling, etc, on the trail. I find vehicles "feel" like they ride better and you can drive them harder, if they're not rattling.

I'm collecting parts to double triangulate the rear suspension, so I'll need to do some cutting/welding to the floor/inner fenders, and need to coat it with something, might as well be something nice to look at that lasts.
 
My plan is to coat inside the tub and under the tub with Lizard Skin. My exhaust is close to the floor and I also have AC I'd like to enjoy.

I have a good buddy who wears flip flops 90% of the time. Said his feet would burn through the flip flops in his YJ. Even I noticed his floor was very warm through my shoes. Then he got the Lizard Skin installed inside the tub. I believe it was just the heat reduction type. Now he says he can go full bare feet without a problem.
 
My old XJ before it became a 'buggy' I had to put carpet back over the trans tunnel to help with heat. Floors were 2k and spray bomb. As for the trenches, cracks holes just clean real well and apply 3M seam sealer, they offer it in a tube or 'brushable'(putty knife works then brush for texture).

New buggy will get LineX floors as I have a hookup then deep groove rubber floor mats.
 
My plan is to coat inside the tub and under the tub with Lizard Skin. My exhaust is close to the floor and I also have AC I'd like to enjoy.

I have a good buddy who wears flip flops 90% of the time. Said his feet would burn through the flip flops in his YJ. Even I noticed his floor was very warm through my shoes. Then he got the Lizard Skin installed inside the tub. I believe it was just the heat reduction type. Now he says he can go full bare feet without a problem.

Noticeable sound reduction?

I've never understood why they say use a coat of heat and a coat of sound.

Does the heat have ceramic in it or something? I'd be more inclined to not use the sound and go straight for heat.
 
My plan is to coat inside the tub and under the tub with Lizard Skin. My exhaust is close to the floor and I also have AC I'd like to enjoy.

I have a good buddy who wears flip flops 90% of the time. Said his feet would burn through the flip flops in his YJ. Even I noticed his floor was very warm through my shoes. Then he got the Lizard Skin installed inside the tub. I believe it was just the heat reduction type. Now he says he can go full bare feet without a problem.

I can't imagine how a thin noise coating would work, so I also would be inclined to skip it. I am newly interested in the heat reduction, since you say it actually works. We like to wear flip flops on the trail too, and the JK floor with no carpet gets just a little warm.

Can you ask your buddy if he did it on one side or two? Did he top-coat it with anything, or put carpet over it?
 
My buddy only had the heat reduction Lizard skin sprayed inside the tub. Nothing was sprayed under the tub. He sprayed Rustoleum black over it months later. Don't know what kind of prep they did before spraying it. The guy who sprayed it used to do it for a living and was moving, so he hooked my buddy up with old stuff he had laying around.

So the guy who sprayed it knew what he was doing, but knowing my buddy, he would have just said to spray over the dirt. He's a cheap bastard.

I just sent a message asking coats they did.
 
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I used Raptor it's a 2 part and sprayed with the supplyed gun, it looks like line-x, I t has a bad chemical smell for about 4 days, it's real easy to spray
 

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