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Rear mounted radiator

Hoopergarage

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Joined
May 27, 2024
Member Number
7837
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Going to be running a rear mounted radiator, I have an idea of what I want to use. It won’t be going through the chassis. Anyone want to share how they did it and what they used to get it back there?
IMG_1549.jpeg
 
Multiple ways to do it but it comes down to how much you want to spend and how much room you have. We have used everything from 1.75 .095 tube with flex hose connections to 1.5 tube with AN bungs on it for -16 line. I like the an fittings better personally. Have a friend that is fixing to run either 1.5 or 1.75 thin aluminum tubing for his lines with flex hose connections.
 
I bought silicone hose from the place below. It's held up over the past 3 years. I've thought of changing over to hard lines, but haven't had a reason to.

Silicone Heater Hose, 1.25" ID, 1.64 OD, 0.200 Wall
(Color: Black, Hose Length (feet): 15)
HHB-125
 
I would be looking at a rear engine setup and just reverse it. I remember working on MR2s and Toyota used metal tubing with flex connections on both ends. Standard radiator hose stuff.

Difficult bleed procedures to get the air out. I'd be paying close attention to your fill cap height compared to the engine.

Maybe add a bleed port on the thermostat housing or highest point on the engine.
 
I would be looking at a rear engine setup and just reverse it. I remember working on MR2s and Toyota used metal tubing with flex connections on both ends. Standard radiator hose stuff.

Difficult bleed procedures to get the air out. I'd be paying close attention to your fill cap height compared to the engine.

Maybe add a bleed port on the thermostat housing or highest point on the engine.
Rear engine was always a PITA to bleed because the radiator in the nose was always low.

Rear radiator still sucks, but less shitty. Add a bleed port at the highest point on the engine (or better: swirl tank with a non-venting cap), try to make the lowest point smaller, and don't make a trap anywhere in the run under the cab (should be continuous uphill run, or flat) to encourage bubbles to travel to either the engine bleed or the radiator. You might have to park it on a hill to encourage the bubbles to leave.
 
Yeah they sucked for sure. The Celica of that vintage has the same engine up front and was still a bitch because the radiator is so low.

You would have to detach the reservoir which has an integrated pressure cap. Then temporarily install it hanging from the hood to bleed. Had some big wonky purge hoses to make all that work.
 
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