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Rear Coilover angle?

BulletOffroad

BulletOffroad

Bulletoffroad
Joined
Dec 30, 2020
Member Number
3238
Messages
35
Loc
Aztec NM
I see almost every jeep seems to have the rear coilover angled back, this seems wrong to me. Why is it so common? I’m going to be mocking my coilovers soon, packaging is easier tilted back, mainly being able to run a connecting bar between the towers behind the seat. But in my mind the weight distribution between front and rear would benefit from them forward or vertical. So what are the pros and cons of forward/vertical/rear leaning?
55B085D8-611B-4E2B-97B2-103DD06180D2.jpeg
 
BulletOffroad said:
I see almost every jeep seems to have the rear coilover angled back, this seems wrong to me. Why is it so common? I’m going to be mocking my coilovers soon, packaging is easier tilted back, mainly being able to run a connecting bar between the towers behind the seat. But in my mind the weight distribution between front and rear would benefit from them forward or vertical. So what are the pros and cons of forward/vertical/rear leaning?
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Cause the tub narrows down to the rear where you can fit the shock tower in without touching the body. Looks like you don't have to worry about that anymore!

Edit: I'd take a picture of my TJ real quick but it's raining outside.

Edit 2: its surprisingly hard to find a picture at that angle this one was taken with a moldy potato but you can kind of see it:
TJrearcornerarmorstock_2048x.jpg
 
MigGunslinger said:
Cause the tub narrows down to the rear where you can fit the shock tower in without touching the body. Looks like you don't have to worry about that anymore!

Edit: I'd take a picture of my TJ real quick but it's raining outside.

Edit 2: its surprisingly hard to find a picture at that angle this one was taken with a moldy potato but you can kind of see it:
TJrearcornerarmorstock_2048x.jpg
Click to expand...
I see a tower but no coilover is that right?

And your right I’ll build a whole new rear tub. I’m trying to maximize comfort in the cab, as I want adults to be able to ride in the rear. While maximizing capability. I figured it was just a packaging deal.
 
BulletOffroad said:
I see a tower but no coilover is that right?

And your right I’ll build a whole new rear tub. I’m trying to maximize comfort in the cab, as I want adults to be able to ride in the rear. While maximizing capability. I figured it was just a packaging deal.
Click to expand...
that pic is the stock setup, what you are seeing is not a tower but the void that they put the tower in. That is why the towers are shaped the way they are and placed in that location.

I found a perfect pic from Genright:
rsm1001-installed-1200__49454.jpg
 
Ok that makes since. I guess I should’ve looked at my tub pieces in the scrap pile. If I copied that I guess I could use the larger factory seat instead of my 37in wide bench. Thank you.
 
Man if my TJ was that far gone in the rear I’d be looking to stretch to LJ length with motobuilt or genright stuff. At the very least look into their inner fenders and stuff, might save a ton of time.

Edit I see in your build thread that the wheelbase is going to be pretty long, are you doing a big comp cut or stretching the body or both?
 
20220304_162516.jpg


You're thinking down the right road - in a car with a body, and trying to keep a rear seat, balancing the packaging around your goals and the strongest, most efficient material use attachment points. You can read lots about 'perpendicular to links at full stuff' and 'declining rate' and ideal angle in all directions- but I wouldn't sweat all that too much.

Spend plenty of time cycling the suspension to make sure tires clear and the coilovers clear the frame.

For me, the coilovers lean forward.
 
MigGunslinger said:
Man if my TJ was that far gone in the rear I’d be looking to stretch to LJ length with motobuilt or genright stuff. At the very least look into their inner fenders and stuff, might save a ton of time.

Edit I see in your build thread that the wheelbase is going to be pretty long, are you doing a big comp cut or stretching the body or both?
Click to expand...
If I could find/afford I’d be putting a commando tail on it. But I’ll probably just build something similar. It’s got more stretch than an lj and it’ll have a little more tail also. Money I’m short on time I have some of. And I’m learning a lot. I also like to build instead of buying things. It just makes my mind happy.
 
Opiebennett said:
20220304_162516.jpg


You're thinking down the right road - in a car with a body, and trying to keep a rear seat, balancing the packaging around your goals and the strongest, most efficient material use attachment points. You can read lots about 'perpendicular to links at full stuff' and 'declining rate' and ideal angle in all directions- but I wouldn't sweat all that too much.

Spend plenty of time cycling the suspension to make sure tires clear and the coilovers clear the frame.

For me, the coilovers lean forward.
Click to expand...
I think I’ll shoot for vertical at bump. As I can still sneak a tie in bar around as a harness bar. Was kinda hoping for the slight bit of extra travel from angling them. But an extra 1/2-1 in on a trail rig will probably never be noticed. And if I go forward it’ll be harder to make a good tie in. Really dig your rig, wish I could find a Commando tail piece for mine. I think it’d be unique and classy. But I can’t find a junk tub to cut up.
 
Opiebennett I appreciate that but I’m in New Mexico. It’s like 1500 in feul to make the trip last time I went. I only want the piece from the seam back and the tail gate. I’m sure I’ll find one eventually just not sure if it’ll be in time for this build. It appears that the last 1-2 years everyone decided to build one. I just want the angle to angle my spare.
 
90* at full bump will give you a nice rising rate for the shock/spring package. You can offset this in the valving and spring combo if you need to lay them back for packaging. Make sure your shock guy knows the shocks are angled backwards. A stiffer primary spring with softer secondary will help as well.

Oh, and microcell bumpstops are your friend.

3e66ce_3f5779a8411e46f5994735b98d8dc146.jpg


All suspensions should bottom. If it lands on a self-damped pillow, you probably won't know about it until you look at where the zip tie ended up. :flipoff2:
 
arse_sidewards said:
You can double them up on the struts of your shitbox for a little extra comfort when BDLing. :laughing:
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Yeah, don't laugh, but we've done it before...

motoiq.com

FrankenMiata - Handling with a Hacksaw - Page 2 of 3 - MotoIQ

, Shocks Since we built our car from a pile of scrap parts behind MD Automotive, our car didn’t really have any shocks. The pile, though, had lots of…
motoiq.com motoiq.com

That guy is currently Mazda's chief vehicle dynamics engineer, he's a professional. LOL.
 
^^^^^ Dig the talk of microcell bump stops. I have 2001 silverado rear bumps in the back of my junk. I think they work well?
 
I plan/planned to use poly performance “competition” 3in bump stops. I put them on the front of my buggy and I’m quite happy with them. It allows me to run my obnoxiously light valveing and quit breaking shock bolts and mounts. They’re not as nice as air bumps but they’re cheep and effective. My dad is running a set of what you showed on the rear of his buggy and they work nice but I’d rather the load not be on the shock mount as I plan to beat on this thing at speed. Or as much speed as I can get out of 4.0 :shaking:
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
^^^^^ Dig the talk of microcell bump stops. I have 2001 silverado rear bumps in the back of my junk. I think they work well?
Click to expand...

Amusingly, this thread had me thinking...

So I literally just bought some of those to weld onto the dingus my XJ has for the stock bumpstops up front. The extended solid polyurethane ones I have now blow goats and my suspension feels great at speed...

Until it bottoms out and isn't great anymore...

BulletOffroad said:
I plan/planned to use poly performance “competition” 3in bump stops. I put them on the front of my buggy and I’m quite happy with them. It allows me to run my obnoxiously light valveing and quit breaking shock bolts and mounts. They’re not as nice as air bumps but they’re cheep and effective. My dad is running a set of what you showed on the rear of his buggy and they work nice but I’d rather the load not be on the shock mount as I plan to beat on this thing at speed. Or as much speed as I can get out of 4.0 :shaking:
Click to expand...

The microcell foam stops are super progressive and easy on the fasteners. You're holding up the Jeep with those same mounts and hardware now anyway...

Or, you can do the Silver-AY-do rear bumps.

 
^^^^ I looked at your link and saw that the fronts are very similar but push into the "cup" when replacing them. I am gonna have to look to see if I can buy the cup seperate. I would like the same bump in the front, but I have a stud there already. That would make it easy for me to mount a cup if I can find them...
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
^^^^ I looked at your link and saw that the fronts are very similar but push into the "cup" when replacing them. I am gonna have to look to see if I can buy the cup seperate. I would like the same bump in the front, but I have a stud there already. That would make it easy for me to mount a cup if I can find them...
Click to expand...
It's $15.70... I doubt you'll save any money. :flipoff2:
 
^^^^^^ Don't think I explained it clearly? I have a stud on the front of my junk. So, I want to have bump that can go over the stud and be held on by a nut....
 
SHARPMACHINE said:
^^^^^^ Don't think I explained it clearly? I have a stud on the front of my junk. So, I want to have bump that can go over the stud and be held on by a nut....
Click to expand...
Wait, are we still talking about bumpstops...? :flipoff2:

If so, cut the stud off. drill a hole. If not, there are websites with better advice for putting studs on your junk than this one... :flipoff2:
 
Wait…. Are
Rockwood said:
Wait, are we still talking about bumpstops...? :flipoff2:

If so, cut the stud off. drill a hole. If not, there are websites with better advice for putting studs on your junk than this one... :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
we talking about bump stops or putting studs in ur junk?????
:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
After reading through this thread, wish there were more photos to go with the discussion.

The Jeep I am building has shock towers in the rear angled back and it's causing me some issues. 1st of which is the coil-overs bind in the tower. The kid that put them on didn't do to nice a job. 2nd issue is with the tower angled back so far I don't have much room for the filler nozzle on the gas tank.
 
67StingrayJ said:
After reading through this thread, wish there were more photos to go with the discussion.

The Jeep I am building has shock towers in the rear angled back and it's causing me some issues. 1st of which is the coil-overs bind in the tower. The kid that put them on didn't do to nice a job. 2nd issue is with the tower angled back so far I don't have much room for the filler nozzle on the gas tank.
Click to expand...
I’ll get some pictures as soon as I tack them on. I went with 15*forward just to gain a little travel vs straight. I haven’t touched it hardly since this post but i have it linked in the rear and the rear frame built. So if just needs shock towers to be on its own wieght. Kids and horses eat a stupid amount of time :shaking: not sure when I’ll be able to get to the steel supplier for what I need.
 
Yes that is just the weight of the jeep. Coilovers removed obviously. Aluminum LS / Warn 8274.
I will have to blow through 5" of uptravel before any of the front bumpstops contact. I have foam bumps on the shock shafts as well.
I'm only concerend with side loading them under articulation trying to pull them out of the cups.
 
RustyC that makes since and it’s probably fine. My buggy and the jeep before it never had numb stops,and I bottomed them out all the time. The only thing to ever hurt a coil over for me was a lack of limit straps. My buggy a rolled backwards two times with the first thing hitting being the tire and it’s ripped the shock tabs off. Now it has limit straps and bump stops up front.
 
I smooshed my Silverado bump stops in the press, they’ll collapse to about half that height, so there’s still some spring rate left there. Either way, I smoosh mine nearly flat in the buggy all the time, barely feel it.
 
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