What's new
By:
Filters

Random stuff you made.

Sceep said:
Wheelchair lift in the new bus isn't as cool as we thought it might be. It's kinda a PITA, takes up a bunch of room in the garage and if it fails, loading/unloading the bikes is going to bring the suck.
Ramp on the black bus was perfect for ease of loading and unloading as well as providing a nice picnic table in camp.
So... Time to build a ramp/table for the tan bus. Gotta figure out better support ropes (have some winch rope coming) and a latch but all in all not a bad weekend project.
1675035809671.png

1675035838146.png

1675035860164.png

1675035879151.png
Click to expand...
How about some flip down legs for the table?
 
Chzbrgr said:
How about some flip down legs for the table?
Click to expand...
Table on the black bus had a single leg. Trying to keep the weight down as much as possible for lifting it up. Legs might have to happen though, especially at the hinge. We'll see how it goes. Suspended gives something to tie off a tarp for additional shelter from wind/sun/rain.
 
Sceep said:
Table on the black bus had a single leg. Trying to keep the weight down as much as possible for lifting it up. Legs might have to happen though, especially at the hinge. We'll see how it goes. Suspended gives something to tie off a tarp for additional shelter from wind/sun/rain.
Click to expand...
Dynema guy wires on the bottom would be trick.
Basically build in the two configurations, table and ramp with some pre-curve to the ramp to take load off the hinge?
 
my truck had a plow light selector switch. it was in this stupid little pod that was just sticky-velcroed to the dash.

it kept falling off the dash when it got cold and I got sick of it.

20230210_175038.jpg


I took it apart and found the pod just contained a regular little switch.

spend about 30 minutes drawing a switch blank for the pedal adjuster my truck doesn't have.

Screenshot 2023-02-10 174923.png


printed it up and no more switch falling down.

20230210_154859.jpg
 
i needed to use my tube bender last night but dont have the floor mount anymore because the spot where it was mounted now i have my 2 post lift there. since it is air of hydraulic all i needed was a simple stand but i also dont want a stand taking up room 364 days of the year. well maybe 360... :grinpimp:

so i had some extra square drive shaft parts and it was time to repurpose them.

i also have a steel table that has castors on it that i do everything on. so lets mount the bender here. and if i am doing just one bend having it level is not that big of a deal.


last pic is 1.5 stainless 1/8 wall no drama bending at all. yay...


1676554315998.png


1676554346682.png

1676556107937.png
 
Used to have a stupid mechanical key pad on my office building some lock and key guy installed years ago. It got stuck all the time. It had 3 mounting holes and I had to cover on up. Found the perfect peice of scrap stainless to make a plate.

20221221_141829.jpg



20221221_145004.jpg
 
Built another dog house, this time for my mom. She has 3 dogs and they won't share a large communal dog house space, so she needed something with separate compartments. Found a rusty flaking epoxy coated brush/fire truck tank and grabbed it for $75. Cut it all up and made it into a doghouse shaped object and ended up with a bunch of nice 1/8" steel to add to my pile of steel for future projects. Had a bunch of old tin lying around I was able to scavenge through and create the dividers for the partitions, the roof, and a floor for the cat attic, or the "cattic" as it is now known as. Bought four 200w infrared pet heaters from Big R and a temperature control off Amazon. Currently have it set to kick on below 40 degrees. It'll run for a minute or so and come up to temp and then shut off again. The boards are all pallet wood except for the two longer boards on the front, those were some old oak flooring out of an ancient farm house we tore down.

So I have $75 for the tank, $20 in screws, $160 in heaters, $20 in the temp control, and Some cut-off wheels and grinding wheels into it.... Oh and about 24' of short pieces of angle iron out of my metal pile for some of the support "purlins" on the structure.

Sadie checking to see if I'm doing it right. All this was salvaged from the brush tank.

331141314_1868539500145603_6843675954732179753_n.jpg


Some decent steel to add to the pile. There's a lot more off to the side not pictured.

331124945_656675456218613_4804491808226368853_n.jpg

Mamma and Sadie checking up on me again.

331077922_524861259798334_1199453018441577235_n.jpg


Getting closer, about done with all the wood, just gotta put the tin dividers, attic floor, infrared heating panels, and roof on.

IMG_2023-02-10_20-33-37.jpeg


Done and at my mom's under the covered porch. She had a couple other dog houses, and a tarp and electric blankets for the dogs and it looked like a homeless tent city around there...

IMG_2023-02-18_12-19-31.jpeg


You can kinda see the infrared panel heater in the back. Montana approves of the new heated dog house.

IMG_2023-02-18_12-19-56.jpeg
 
vetteboy79 said:
Dude, she might be a bitch, but give the woman a little respect at least. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Lol! Cheaper than the nursing home amirite? :flipoff2:

PoBoy84 said:
Made a motor mount/belt tensioner for my compressor tonight. Decided for simple hand crank and stop. Flat bar for alignment guide.


20230219_152559.jpg




20230219_211352.jpg


20230219_211304.jpg
Click to expand...

I hate how they never have tensioners on them... I've built a few that are a plate underneath that matches the bolt pattern of the motor, and has nuts welded on (another pet peeve of mine is getting a damn wrench up in there to hold the nut while you tighten the bolt. And then have a coupling nut welded to that plate for a piece of all thread to go through. Then I make a flat bar hook that slips over the end of the compressor with a pipe welded on it for the all thread to go through. I'll try and remember to grab a pic of it.
 
billybob_81067 said:
I hate how they never have tensioners on them... I've built a few that are a plate underneath that matches the bolt pattern of the motor, and has nuts welded on (another pet peeve of mine is getting a damn wrench up in there to hold the nut while you tighten the bolt. And then have a coupling nut welded to that plate for a piece of all thread to go through. Then I make a flat bar hook that slips over the end of the compressor with a pipe welded on it for the all thread to go through. I'll try and remember to grab a pic of it.
Click to expand...
Post it up! I dig seeing what folks come up with. The motor frame doesn't quite match the compressor so it's a tad of an adapter as well. I just got this one, so I had the motor bolted half ass to get a couple projects done after the old compressor ate shit. This is probably the 10th mod to my franken-system.


20230220_000112.jpg
 
PoBoy84 said:
Post it up! I dig seeing what folks come up with. The motor frame doesn't quite match the compressor so it's a tad of an adapter as well. I just got this one, so I had the motor bolted half ass to get a couple projects done after the old compressor ate shit. This is probably the 10th mod to my franken-system.
Click to expand...

Just remembered I already have a pic of one air compressor with the tensioner. The black flat hook over the edge of the lip is the part your all thread "bolt" pulls against. Motor plate is just a plate of steel with the motor bolt pattern and nuts welded to it. Coupling nut welded to the plate in line with the all thread pulls the plate out when you tighten with a wrench. No actual modifications/welding necessary to the compressor itself as the hook just slips over the end. I need to make another for my Ingersoll Rand compressor too.

tensioner.jpg
 
Have always heard that some rubber placed between the tank and the motor makes a big difference in how quiet an air compressor is. Never tried it though
 
billybob_81067 said:
Just remembered I already have a pic of one air compressor with the tensioner. The black flat hook over the edge of the lip is the part your all thread "bolt" pulls against. Motor plate is just a plate of steel with the motor bolt pattern and nuts welded to it. Coupling nut welded to the plate in line with the all thread pulls the plate out when you tighten with a wrench. No actual modifications/welding necessary to the compressor itself as the hook just slips over the end. I need to make another for my Ingersoll Rand compressor too.

tensioner.jpg
Click to expand...
I like that. I could have done that with the old motor for sure, or a baseplate fir this one. I was going a differentrout at first and had some polished rod, but thought it was too fancy. I've got a 2nd Quincy in storage, that will need a new 220v motor and pulley. I'm going to source a different motor for that one, and build one like yours. That's a perfect design.
 
Steve300xcw said:
Have always heard that some rubber placed between the tank and the motor makes a big difference in how quiet an air compressor is. Never tried it though
Click to expand...
My compressor is the quietest I've ever heard turning 1280 rpm. Its the max of its range, and I can talk normal over it standing right by it. I was amazed.
 
PoBoy84 said:
My compressor is the quietest I've ever heard turning 1280 rpm. Its the max of its range, and I can talk normal over it standing right by it. I was amazed.
Click to expand...

Those are way quieter than my IR for sure. I just always heard that basically the motor/pump noise sorta echo's in the tank...fuck if I know
 
Steve300xcw said:
Those are way quieter than my IR for sure. I just always heard that basically the motor/pump noise sorta echo's in the tank...fuck if I know
Click to expand...
It might. I'll tell you what, I'll do an experiment with mine and try it with rubber, delrin, rigid, and see. Reckon those decibal meters are affordable?
 
Dunno

I always planed to just put a chunk of old conveyor belt under mine. Never have gotten around to it though
 
Steve300xcw said:
Dunno

I always planed to just put a chunk of old conveyor belt under mine. Never have gotten around to it though
Click to expand...
I know it makes alot of difference with it sitting on a rubber mat instead of directly on the concrete.
 
Thumping said:
I know it makes alot of difference with it sitting on a rubber mat instead of directly on the concrete.
Click to expand...
I've got that. But pump and motor have nothing. My buddies Kobalt has rubber isolators for the motor. I've got a 1/4" cutting board I could cut up for the motor to try. I dunno how much quieter this one can get. I think the pump should stay rigid.

20230220_115938.jpg
 
PoBoy84 said:
It might. I'll tell you what, I'll do an experiment with mine and try it with rubber, delrin, rigid, and see. Reckon those decibal meters are affordable?
Click to expand...

I did a very unscientific comparison of conventional and synthetic in my Kobalt a long time ago. AMSOIL was a tad quieter, more different tone. No Db meter or anything, just a ~'03 model Sony Cybershot.

 
PoBoy84 said:
It might. I'll tell you what, I'll do an experiment with mine and try it with rubber, delrin, rigid, and see. Reckon those decibal meters are affordable?
Click to expand...
Just download one on you phone from Google play or whatever Apple uses.
 
It's quiet enough, this is just for fun. Nowhere near noisy enough for a box, or outside intake, but I do have a window close by. I made these but already started putting them on, so I'd have to measure again w them off. Didn't think about an app, I'll get one. May be a placebo, but I feel it's noticeably quieter. I'll measure the difference if I find a good app. It's probably the same and it's just my brain. :homer:

20230220_124226.jpg


20230220_133753.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh