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D Nelly said:
Strip the leather, leave the couch on the side of the road where you found it. They already committed to having trash on the curb, might as well make it trashier trash
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I don't want to live in a world where people bring their "trash" to the dump rather than letting anyone take a crack at it first

so, no
 
Do you really want an old leather couch or chair that someone is selling off of craigslist? Use black light on it first.
 
Whipped this up this week, I moved my 3rd function connection to the back temporarily.
 

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Got a bit more work done on my log splitter the past couple days. Starting to get heavy now...

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Still gonna gusset the cylinder mount end back to the flanges. The close side in the picture above will have plain ol triangle gussets. Other side will get some bigger gussets/plates that stick out further because I need to mount a hinge on it. This is the splitter that I am building to go onto my dump trailer so it has to pivot around that corner to swing off the front of the trailer and around the corner to the side. so I can split. Will probably add a round jack mount to the foot end in case I need to add a stabilizer jack when using it. We'll see how beefy it is when I get it all done, might not need it.
 
Also didn't get as much work done to the splitter tonight as I wanted to because I had a little side project. My air compressor lives in the unheated side of the shop and when it gets cold it won't start up nicely. Surges because of the cold oil and will kick out the circuit breaker on the motor starter.

So I added one of those self adhesive oil pan heaters to the bottom of the compressor pump.


And added this thermostat control to it. Put the probe in the compressor oil so once it gets it up to 55 degrees it will shut off the heater.


Hopefully it'll work like I think it should!
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
What's the bore on that cylinder? Looks huge. Hope you're gonna have a high flow pump.
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5" bore. I have a 2 stage log splitter pump for it so it'll flow a decent amount until it kicks into low gear for more power. I have a northstar log splitter that I'm basically copying my design off of so it should be very comparable to that.
 
dave_dj1 said:
I decided I want to make a grapple for grabbing logs with the 3 point on the tractor. Built this today, will do the rest maybe tomorrow.
I'm using a 2.5" bore by 6" stroke cylinder I had on the shelf. Hopefully it won't be too powerful!
I'm undecided if I'm going to use chains to hang it or two D-rings. I don't have enough hydraulics to mount it to a rotator.
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that is pretty awesome. I need to figure out a way to use this idea. would be handy for skidding logs out of the timber to the woodpile where i can buck them into rounds then feed the splitter. what thickness plate did you use for the jaws?
 
aczlan said:
Hate to say it, but you would have probably been happier with a fixed wedge and a moving push plate, then your pile of split wood ends up off the end of the splitter rather than having to move it again each time...

Aaron Z
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I know nothing about splitting logs, but this makes sense to me.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
that is pretty awesome. I need to figure out a way to use this idea. would be handy for skidding logs out of the timber to the woodpile where i can buck them into rounds then feed the splitter. what thickness plate did you use for the jaws?
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The tongs are only 1/4", they are pieces that I have laser cut for the top tines on my 55" full lid front grapple. It was more of an experiment/prototype if you will. I put some 2x4 tube in between the two pieces so I think they will be strong enough.
I did add a solid piece of flat stock to connect the two arms so they move in sync now instead of the one with the least resistance moving first. I kind of figured I would need to do this but I was hoping not to have to.
Here is a pic with the bar. I think the two D-rings works fine for what little I have tested it. It seems to hang centered just fine.
 

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aczlan said:
Hate to say it, but you would have probably been happier with a fixed wedge and a moving push plate, then your pile of split wood ends up off the end of the splitter rather than having to move it again each time...

Aaron Z
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There are two schools of thought on this. One is with fixed plate you can use vertically and the wood doesn't move so if you have to re split the pieces stay put. The other is as you say, push the splits off out of the way but no vertical use. I like having the fixed wedge on mine.
 
dave_dj1 said:
There are two schools of thought on this. One is with fixed plate you can use vertically and the wood doesn't move so if you have to re split the pieces stay put. The other is as you say, push the splits off out of the way but no vertical use. I like having the fixed wedge on mine.
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I have a 34T Champion and, as convenient as the fixed wedge would be for final splitting, the vertical option made cracking 30+" rounds into manageable quarters possible so I'm a fan of the fixed plate.
 
aczlan said:
Hate to say it, but you would have probably been happier with a fixed wedge and a moving push plate, then your pile of split wood ends up off the end of the splitter rather than having to move it again each time...

Aaron Z
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Like I said I have a northern tool splitter I've been using for years that I'm copying my design off of. I love the wedge on the cylinder. I throw big rounds up there and chunk off the diameter of it. The chunk I split off is small enough to throw in the trailer, and I hang onto the big part of the round and rotate it some and send the wedge back in. With the foot on the cylinder I would have to move the round back and forth each time I wanted to re-set it back into the splitter. Smaller stuff that splits in one pass would be fine on either style.
 
billybob_81067 said:
Like I said I have a northern tool splitter I've been using for years that I'm copying my design off of. I love the wedge on the cylinder. I throw big rounds up there and chunk off the diameter of it. The chunk I split off is small enough to throw in the trailer, and I hang onto the big part of the round and rotate it some and send the wedge back in. With the foot on the cylinder I would have to move the round back and forth each time I wanted to re-set it back into the splitter. Smaller stuff that splits in one pass would be fine on either style.
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I forgot it was going over a trailer. Growing up we had a big homemade splitter with a fixed wedge and a log lifter that Dad built with the neighbor, now we have a "box box store" one with a moving wedge and its no comparison. Its not high enough when its in horizontal mode and I dislike vertical mode.

On the big one I grew up with they left about 6" of I beam past the wedge, so the splits didn't fall off and it wasn't ever a big deal to move them back.
With that style, you might want to add a log catching grate to the operator's side (something like this one):
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Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
I forgot it was going over a trailer. Growing up we had a big homemade splitter with a fixed wedge and a log lifter that Dad built with the neighbor, now we have a "box box store" one with a moving wedge and its no comparison. Its not high enough when its in horizontal mode and I dislike vertical mode.

On the big one I grew up with they left about 6" of I beam past the wedge, so the splits didn't fall off and it wasn't ever a big deal to move them back.
With that style, you might want to add a log catching grate to the operator's side (something like this one):
1668792935710.png


Aaron Z
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I did plan on adding a wing on my side. Will have to make it fold up/in for storage as that is the side that will be against the trailer when folded for travel.
 
[486] said:
your house needs a lot more accumulated "this might be useful some day" shit
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I don't clutter up my living room with angle iron and rough cut lumber. Plenty of that shit elsewhere.
Pony_Driver said:
Looks almost austere to me.
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It's part of one wall, lol. There's plenty of shit in there. Maybe I should hang some forklift entrance plastc.

rockota said:
He’s collecting romantic comedies. :flipoff2:
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I beat off to whatever is on the home screen.
 
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