Hodgiemoto
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Working on a deal as we speak.. So did you notice or feel any shock fade during the race?
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Race truck 4653
- Thread starter Pitbullcruiser
- Start date
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- toyota
Working on a deal as we speak.. So did you notice or feel any shock fade during the race?
Nice! The shocks were much better after FOX worked on them. I didn't notice any fading, they seemed pretty consistent in the desert.
Slander
Team no stickys
Representing down here in NC
Awesome! Thanks man.
I sold my DOT Krawlers on DIY beadlocks and got some KM3s and Allied beadlocks.
Rockcrawlintoy
Pavement Pounder
why the switch? I get the wheels but the tires?
Weight, the tires are each 15lbs lighter. I have been cutting off and removing all kinds of stuff, so far I have dropped 185lbs.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Yet you're still running steel wheels
Keep an eye out for some 15" aluminum beadlocks. They go super cheap used since every one wants 17s.
Yet you're still running steel wheels
Keep an eye out for some 15" aluminum beadlocks. They go super cheap used since every one wants 17s.
Is there much of an advantage in a race environment though? Of course the U4 cars run Al because its slightly lighter and the top teams have a dozen sitting in the pits. Personally I'd rather have a wheel I can beat back into shape in 4600. I know my walkers are heavier than any weld on beadlock I've built.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I think rotating mass is a bigger deal than people realize, especially with little engines.
No way a walker evans is heavier than a weld on beadlock
These are some of the reasons I stuck with the steel wheels, price was also a factor. These beadlocks are a lot lighter than the DIY kits I have put together.
This is true, those Krawlers were heavy tires for 35"s.
Random picture of the truck waiting on a new diff.
I think rotating mass is a bigger deal than people realize, especially with little engines.
No way a walker evans is heavier than a weld on beadlock
They absolutely are. I have a cnc plasma and build plenty of wheels for friends. Walkers are nearly 40, weld ons depending on wheel brand are high 20s to low 30s plus rings and hardware. They may only be a pound or two lighter but unless the rings are gigantic they usually are.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Have you driven it yet? I always noticed tire and wheel weight more than diameter.
I swear my samurai was faster on super bald 39 Iroks and 15x8 steelies than it was on 33x14.5 boggers on 15x12 Street locks
Have you driven it yet? I always noticed tire and wheel weight more than diameter.
I swear my samurai was faster on super bald 39 Iroks and 15x8 steelies than it was on 33x14.5 boggers on 15x12 Street locks
I haven't driven it yet, I am still waiting on tcase parts. Once its back together I will be doing a wheeling trip to test them out.
Overheating at Cougar Buttes.
Rubirunner85
I like Toyotas
My walkers weighed 38.. I can look for the pic. I had some steel bead locks before that were much heavier. A steel wheel that light doesn’t sound very strong.
Rubirunner85
I like Toyotas
I don't see a tracking number yet so I'm sure it will go out Monday
Awesome man, Thanks.
Hodgiemoto
Well-known member
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Aluminum doesn’t always mean lighter. Case in point I bought 17” creeper locks and 37” Nitto trail grapplers. Creepers are 48 lbs😳 and the nittos are 85! I now feel like I’m pulling a trailer compared to my old combo. Added about 35-40 lbs. per tire. Wheels awesome but slower than a fat boy on bicycle on the highway.
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I got my new TG dual cases today. Big thanks to Austin from Irate4x4 for the killer deal and quick shipping! My co driver got the old dual cases back together as a spare. In an effort to cut more weight I will be switching to disc brakes in the rear.
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chaplinfj60
Well-known member
is there any plans to go to 9.5 land cruiser axles, like you a tore up a 8 inch ring gear doing something simple, actually 2. if the coin is it would be bad ass to do a ruff stuff or diamond or S&S Fab or any one of them with hell fire knuckles and 9.5 ring and pinion. again just talking not bashing in any way.
cheers
cheers
No plans to go away from the 8" axle stuff at this time. If I do change axles it will be a non Toyota bases axle.
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i went to dana 60s but i am not racing.
cool cool
enjoy following your build too
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Apples to apples, aluminum will be lighter.
You're comparing tire and wheel to tire and wheel, and most likely 15s to 17s. Probably even non bead lock to beadlock
makes no sense Good call, 9" stuff would be cheaper than high zoot toyota stuff. Plus you'd have the ability to run 6.xx or 7.xx gears.
Hodgiemoto
Well-known member
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Apples to apples, aluminum will be lighter.
You're comparing tire and wheel to tire and wheel, and most likely 15s to 17s. Probably even non bead lock to beadlock
Good call, 9" stuff would be cheaper than high zoot toyota stuff. Plus you'd have the ability to run 6.xx or 7.xx gears.
Busted..
Got some parts for the rear disc brakes and an inspection hole for the rear axle.
Elvis-n-texas
indefatigable
- Joined
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Awesome!
One little EMC race wont keep Team Trail Rig down..
BTW, the Kevlars on my rig have gone through living hell, and survived with just a sidewall patch. Great choice.
Agree on the wheel\tire weights. any reduction in rolling weight will increase your acceleration. (And shock performance)
For discs on my small crawler buggy project (not yet unveiled) I use a super light disc like this
(I fabricated my own rotor hat.. my disc.. is inboard :) Bet you dont see that everyday)
You will need a Prop valve, and a residual valve, a 2 PSI for disk. LINK
Going to install a driveline brake?
I use a ball valve inline with the rear brakes, and just stand on them when I need to park on a hill.
Its not as safe as a real parking brake, but it weighs nothing.
And, isnt that Austin guy swell n stuff, cuttin us killer deals on crawler parts..... :)
Keep up the killer work; each journey starts with one small step..
One little EMC race wont keep Team Trail Rig down..
BTW, the Kevlars on my rig have gone through living hell, and survived with just a sidewall patch. Great choice.
Agree on the wheel\tire weights. any reduction in rolling weight will increase your acceleration. (And shock performance)
For discs on my small crawler buggy project (not yet unveiled) I use a super light disc like this
(I fabricated my own rotor hat.. my disc.. is inboard :) Bet you dont see that everyday)
You will need a Prop valve, and a residual valve, a 2 PSI for disk. LINK
Going to install a driveline brake?
I use a ball valve inline with the rear brakes, and just stand on them when I need to park on a hill.
Its not as safe as a real parking brake, but it weighs nothing.
And, isnt that Austin guy swell n stuff, cuttin us killer deals on crawler parts..... :)
Keep up the killer work; each journey starts with one small step..
That's some good info Elvis. I raced on Kevlars back in the day. They didnt work well in east coast mud so I switched to BFG and never looked back.
