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Project Siclone

Back when I was playing with subs with "decent" power, my cheap-ish Mono amp getting 900-1000k watts at 1ohm was AT LEAST half the size of the SALT-12. So you're double the size, 18x the power :laughing: Different levels of product, but damn amps have come a LONG way in 14 years
 
swtfman said:
I looked at the SALT-12 specs and found it calls for a 2000A fuse on the power input :eek:

So how do you accomplish that? A short run of 12AWG as a "fuse"? :laughing:
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Um, you don't. :homer:

The fuses are not there to protect equipment, but to protect the wire run in the event of a short.

Honestly, most SPL guys don't fuse their amplifier power runs. They're just wired straight to the buss bars at the batteries. With amps like this SALT-12 many guys will run dual input adapters that will accept dual 0 AWG cable inputs and connect to a single 0 AWG amp input. That means six runs of 0 AWG to the amp.

This SALT-12 has three 0 AWG power and ground inputs. I can get 800A ANL fuses ($21 each) and fuse each input to the amp.

If they blow due to current (which I doubt) I can always use these machined aluminum fuse deletes.



budget76 said:
Back when I was playing with subs with "decent" power, my cheap-ish Mono amp getting 900-1000k watts at 1ohm was AT LEAST half the size of the SALT-12. So you're double the size, 18x the power :laughing: Different levels of product, but damn amps have come a LONG way in 14 years
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Power is also so much cheaper these days. Back in the 90s we were paying a dollar or more per Watt. Now you can get power for cheap. Especially with the full bridge amps. Here's a 3,000W full bridge for less than $200. The trick is that you need good electrical on the power supply side to run them. The full bridge amps are picky when it comes to power. If you drop too low on voltage they'll shit themselves and let the magic smoke out.

The SALT amp that I'll be using is designed for normal vehicle operating voltage. SALT stands for Sundown Audio Low-voltage Technology. 9-15.5V operating range. The full bridge amps would shit themselves at 9V.

The 24,000-25,000 Watt output is achieved at 15V. Hank Veach got 27,000 out of one.


In other news:

Second Skin contacted me this morning. They're going to fully sponsor the build. :smokin:

I was going to use their products anyway, so this is a HUGE cost savings. Guys like Provience and 4x4mechanic that saw the Audi, expect that level of quiet inside, but built for SPL level output as well. Will be a mix of SPL and SQ build techniques going into this one so it's going to be interesting.

...and Home Depot has the Ryobi caulk gun at about 50% off. I normally wouldn't have a need for a caulk gun, but with this build I'll be using a buttload of construction adhesive as I build the "enclosure" so this will come in useful.
 
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I'm glad they sponsored it, I went on the second skin website the other day and they have everything I want for my truck on there, all the variety of matting for roof, headliner, door, firewall and floor. Great stuff
 
I used Second Skin in my Samurai after the diesel swap and it worked really well. I used damplifier and the spectrum over top of it
 
Provience said:
I'm glad they sponsored it, I went on the second skin website the other day and they have everything I want for my truck on there, all the variety of matting for roof, headliner, door, firewall and floor. Great stuff
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They have the single best product line in the industry.

Check this out:



BCzuk said:
I used Second Skin in my Samurai after the diesel swap and it worked really well. I used damplifier and the spectrum over top of it
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That's what I'll be doing on a portion of this. Damplifier Pro with Spectrum over it.
 
ProjectTwin said:
They have the single best product line in the industry.

Check this out:





That's what I'll be doing on a portion of this. Damplifier Pro with Spectrum over it.
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Damn , so that I need to spray on the roof of the travelall!
 
Java230 said:
Damn , so that I need to spray on the roof of the travelall!
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For the roof you could use MegaZorbe or MegaZorbe Pro if you want acoustic as well as thermal insulation.

Mega Zorbe will also thermally insulate (nothing like that Firewall ceramic), but it will quiet things down.

If anything, apply Damplifier Pro, then Firewall ceramic, then a layer of MegaZorbe.

THAT would be killer. Overkill, but killer. :laughing:
 
ProjectTwin said:
For the roof you could use MegaZorbe or MegaZorbe Pro if you want acoustic as well as thermal insulation.

Mega Zorbe will also thermally insulate (nothing like that Firewall ceramic), but it will quiet things down.

If anything, apply Damplifier Pro, then Firewall ceramic, then a layer of MegaZorbe.

THAT would be killer. Overkill, but killer. :laughing:
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Ill keep it in mind! I am a long ways off from that :lmao:
 
ProjectTwin said:
They have the single best product line in the industry.

Check this out:





That's what I'll be doing on a portion of this. Damplifier Pro with Spectrum over it.
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Crom's floor needs that, a bottle of water sitting on it after a couple hours is so hot you can't drink it
 
Got Damplifier Pro applied to the forward roof section, made a template, and then made the first 3/4" insert layer for the roof.

Doing this to increase structural rigidity. :homer:

Made kerf cuts so the ply would contour to the roof, applied a bunch of construction adhesive, and wedged it in place.

I'll let it cure overnight, remove the wedges, and continue along the rest of the roof.

1637375352876-png.jpg
 
ProjectTwin said:
Power is also so much cheaper these days. Back in the 90s we were paying a dollar or more per Watt. Now you can get power for cheap. Especially with the full bridge amps. Here's a 3,000W full bridge for less than $200. The trick is that you need good electrical on the power supply side to run them. The full bridge amps are picky when it comes to power. If you drop too low on voltage they'll shit themselves and let the magic smoke out.
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Same thing happend in the pro-touring world. How about a 20,000 watt single rack space amp. In the 90's a Crest or Crown amp weighed 50+ lbs, took two or three rack spaces and the good ones were 500w per channel and they made a ton of heat, ( I remember doing a gig at a ski resort and turning the rack around so that the exhaust fans were blowing on me.)>

K20_gallery-cardL_front-1024x500.png
 
Yea power has gotten recockulously cheap. I remember the giant to fosgate 1000 watt amp being almost $1500 back in the 90s and it being huge.

Now I have a taramps 3k bass amp that dynos at 3200 watts rms for under $300. Times sure have changed.



That is going to be one heavy ass xb in the end! You'll need them airbags for sure. The stock coils & struts wouldn't have any if that shit. :laughing:
 
ProjectTwin said:
Got Damplifier Pro applied to the forward roof section, made a template, and then made the first 3/4" insert layer for the roof.

Doing this to increase structural rigidity. :homer:

Made kerf cuts so the ply would contour to the roof, applied a bunch of construction adhesive, and wedged it in place.

I'll let it cure overnight, remove the wedges, and continue along the rest of the roof.
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I'm gonna have to copy that on the Aerostar roof and walls. Seems like it would be great for making a massive tin can a little more quiet.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I'm gonna have to copy that on the Aerostar roof and walls. Seems like it would be great for making a massive tin can a little more quiet.
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Honestly some Damplifier Pro followed up with some Mega Zorbe would make a big difference.

Since I'm stuffing the 24s in here, I want to do what I can to keep the vehicle from getting ripped apart. That's the reason for the ply.

I applied Damplifier Pro to the roof skin, cut that piece of ply, used three fucking tubes ($30) of Loctite PL Max on that panel, and wedged it up there.

When I first wedged it in place I could fist bump that section of roof and it would still ring a little. Came out today, removed the wedges, and it's solid. I'll do the same process along the rest of the roof (Damp Pro and ply) in the "low" areas of the roof skin between the roof braces then come back and do a large sheet to make the ply 1 1/2" thick. From there I'll start building the floor and sides of the "enclosure".

When the headliner goes back in I know it'll need to be modified for the big amp, but also to account for the thickness of ply I'm putting in. I'll cut/modify it so it fits and looks factory.

Since I plan on competing in sound quality with the thing, I'll apply some of Second Skin's Mega Zorbe to absorb reflective sound in the cabin. Otherwise there'd just be a 1 1/2" thick ply ceiling and a thin headliner. I'll apply black suede over the Mega Zorbe and no one will know anything has been done. :homer:
 
I think Im gonna have to take advantage of that 20% off coupon.

The absolute lack of sound deadening in my semi is crazy. The doors are basically aluminum shells with a cardboard base interior door panel. So much road noise its insane.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
I think Im gonna have to take advantage of that 20% off coupon.

The absolute lack of sound deadening in my semi is crazy. The doors are basically aluminum shells with a cardboard base interior door panel. So much road noise its insane.
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That's the best deal you can get on it right now.

Otherwise I have a 10% code that you can use any time.

New video is up. :homer: Nothing that really hasn't been said in here.

 
Two door would be cool, but man what a lot of work, and working on the inside to trouble shoot would be a pain in the ass
 
bigun said:
Two door would be cool, but man what a lot of work, and working on the inside to trouble shoot would be a pain in the ass
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The two door would mean that I'd have to build the enclosure and do all of the metal fab from outside the vehicle.

Ideally, if I welded the doors shut, I'd want to weld both inside and outside.

Welding the door shut first would limit how I could work when it comes to building the enclosure.

So it's a catch-22 situation when it comes to fabrication.

Leaving the rear doors means I could mount amps/processors on the sides of the enclosure if I wanted.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
I think Im gonna have to take advantage of that 20% off coupon.

The absolute lack of sound deadening in my semi is crazy. The doors are basically aluminum shells with a cardboard base interior door panel. So much road noise its insane.
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Forgot to ask...do you own it?
 
Ugh, that damn 20% off is tempting. Working on putting together a system in my F150 and your videos have been super helpful.


Been reading some comparisons on different brands and that Resonix dude sure likes to talk up his products as being the best thing in the world but damn that shit ain't cheap :flipoff2:
 
ProjectTwin said:
How crazy do you want to get with the sound treatment?
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Thats my question right now too. I have a 04gmc sierra and dont want to go crazy. JUst take out a littlebit of the road and wind noise.

Wasthinking: Amplifier pro in doors, back,roof of truck but not complete coverage. Then maybe a sound deadener by the front wheel wells?

I have an RX8 that is STUPID loud road noise. Little wind noise though. Thinking damplifier and a sound deadener on the wheel wells only?

Am I fucking this up:lmao:

Next vehicle gets the FULL projectTwin treatment when it arrives:smokin:
 
We need ProjectTwin to post a sound deadening article in Gen 4x4 or something. What product where, and what composition of products for what purpose.

I know it's been talked about in the Audi thread, but we don't have a comprehensive guide/starting point so everyone's on the same page.
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
We need ProjectTwin to post a sound deadening article in Gen 4x4 or something. What product where, and what composition of products for what purpose.

I know it's been talked about in the Audi thread, but we don't have a comprehensive guide/starting point so everyone's on the same page.
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I think he's got a couple videos up on Youtube showing his process in detail
 
Pt_Ranger_v8 said:
We need ProjectTwin to post a sound deadening article in Gen 4x4 or something. What product where, and what composition of products for what purpose.

I know it's been talked about in the Audi thread, but we don't have a comprehensive guide/starting point so everyone's on the same page.
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Check out the second skin website. They break it down pretty well
 
Clemson13 said:
Thats my question right now too. I have a 04gmc sierra and dont want to go crazy. JUst take out a littlebit of the road and wind noise.

Wasthinking: Amplifier pro in doors, back,roof of truck but not complete coverage. Then maybe a sound deadener by the front wheel wells?

I have an RX8 that is STUPID loud road noise. Little wind noise though. Thinking damplifier and a sound deadener on the wheel wells only?

Am I fucking this up:lmao:

Next vehicle gets the FULL projectTwin treatment when it arrives:smokin:
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You can spray Spectrum in the wheel wells.

There are three basic things to sound treatment.

Sound resonance reduction with stuff like Damp Pro/Spectrum/Sludge
Sound absorption with stuff like Mega Zorbe and Heatwave Pro
Sound blocking with Luxury Liner or Luxury Liner Pro

Other than that, there's heat treatment stuff. The Heatwave Pro has a foil/jute/foil construction that I use on the floor pans over Damp Pro and under Luxury Liner. Heatwave Pro handles sound absorption, has some insulation properties, and serves to decouple the Luxury Liner from the Damplifier Pro.

Mega Zorbe is great on the roof to absorb sound as well as insulate. Apply Damp Pro ,then Mega Zorbe, then your headliner.

Most people apply their CLD (Constrained Layer Damper) like Dynamat, Hushmat, Noico...and call that sound deadening. Sure, you've deadened the panel by reducing panel resonance, but that just one step in the overall process.

budget76 said:
I think he's got a couple videos up on Youtube showing his process in detail
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Second Skin loved those videos. Said they're the best videos they'd seen on sound treatment.

Those videos are also why they're fully sponsoring the Siclone build.

They asked if I planned on making sound treatment videos of the Siclone and I was like "Well, yeah. There will be a whole build series of the vehicle for YouTube." :laughing:

When the owner was approached with the sponsorship request and told who it was for the answer was an immediate "Yes"

When they said they'd sponsor the Audi I caught them off-guard with just how much stuff I used. I made an initial request, got that stuff, made a 2nd request, got some flak for it, then dropped a couple of videos.

Had no issues with my 3rd material request for the car. :homer:

So since I knew they loved the Audi videos I figured it couldn't hurt to ask if they'd want to be part of this build as well. It worked out.
 
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