What's new
By:
Filters

Project Flat F***er (fender)

More of the in tank pump retrofit

1627254847589.png



1627254880863.png


1627254890873.png


1627254911834.png


1627254924595.png
 
Jul 15, 2015

The GPW has been quite reliable as a trail champion the last few times out, although I was a bit annoyed that my spring plate bolts kept loosening up on the trail. I decided to upgrade to B7 (125,000 psi tensile) studs and Grade 9 lock nuts. So far it's a $14 fix. I threaded them into the center section and torqued to 170 ft lbs. Each has a full 1.5" of thread into the cast section which should be more than enough thread engagement. We shall see how this works.


1627254954043.png


1627254964142.png
 
Jul 21, 2015

I realize that when I put this together a few years back that I had actually one major oversight.

Well actually I figured this out while troubleshooting Project Space Shuttle. The GPW has always had a bit of a shitty idle when you first start it and took a while to even out. I figured it was because it was Mustang EFI on a 351W and the displacement was causing the issue.

By chance, when I was messing with the Cruiser, I disconnected the feed line between the valve cover (which pulls the air for the crank case through the air filter and MAF) and noticed the same idle issue with my perfect-running 5.0.

This made me suspect that the GPW could have a much smoother off idle approach so I setup a test case. As soon as I clamped off the PCV, the idle kicked up and the GPW had more off idle power. So long story short I fixed the breather issue and now my off idle performance is that much better.

Radical. It's ready for another trip.

I think I'll weigh it tomorrow. 6 pack of Coors tall cans to whoever is within 25lbs of the actual weight.

Here's a picture I stole from Mykul. This is how it sits right now, with 20 gallons of gas and exactly the same as on the Rubicon.



Some info on the bump stops:


98 + Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport rear bumpstops. I think I got them from Pick n Pull 11 years ago in Ontario, CA.

Found this from an earlier thread:
CPT - Crawler Proven Technology Heavy Duty Rubber Bumpstop - IH Parts America


1999 Isuzu Rodeo Parts - Isuzu Parts Center - Call (800) 709-5064 for Genuine Isuzu Parts, Isuzu Truck Parts, Isuzu Ascender Parts, Isuzu I-290 Parts, Isuzu Rodeo Parts, Isuzu I-370 Parts, Isuzu Impulse Parts, Isuzu Oasis Parts, Isuzu Stylus Parts, I


1627255063632.png


1627255069614.png


1627255078337.png
 
Aug 31, 2015

My original bikini top ripped off when I drove back from Reno a few weeks ago. It was tearing, and had been through a lot so I'm not really broken up about it. I saw this on Extreme4x4 in between Ian making 1 ton trucks look gay :flipoff2:

You will need:
  • A thick canvas tarp
  • Nylon thread
  • Grommets
  • Wooden Dowels
  • Sewing Machine
  • Person Qualified to Operate Sewing Machine
I decided I would offer some tech for those looking to make their own $50 bikini top. I already have an existing windshield channel for my soft top to hook to, so I didn't need to buy that. If you don't have one of these, they can be had on Amazon for less than $20 for a YJ or TJ. You will probably have to modify them, but for $20 you can't lose.

First I ordered a 6x8 21 oz OD green canvas top for $35

Then, knowing I will need to trim it to fit, I ordered some #70 nylon milspec thread.

Next I purchased a Grommet kit at Home Depot with a refill kit so I can add grommets to hold this thing to the roll cage.

Next, I test fit everything and cut to length and begged my mom to teach me how to use a sewing machine. Everything went pretty well. We double hemmed the edge of the tarp and the thread line was straight until I asked my mom to let me try. I'm apparently not a tailor.

Next I used wooden dowel to attach the tarp to my windshield channel, they were 5/16". I simply removed the grommets at the front of the tarp and slipped the hemmed end into the channel. I then put the dowel through the hem and locked it into place. I used parachute cord to cinch the back and sides of the top to the GPW.

Now it's done and I won't get sunburnt or rained directly on the trail.

1627255136587.png


1627255144778.png


1627255153256.png


1627255160820.png


1627255170260.png
 
Sep 18, 2015

Some pictures from Dusy I stole from Facebook (back when I had it.

Trip summary:
  • Spring studs are now considered secure.
  • Canvas soft top held up awesome.
  • Tactical Scarf is secure.
  • The Flat F***er has now overcome the high elevation fuel issue
  • Patrick Swayze shirt is also secure.
  • My dad's JK is functioning again with .250 wall lower links on all 4 corners and rock armor
1627255248398.png


1627255257126.png


1627255265068.png


1627255274461.png


1627255284415.png
 
Feb 23, 2016

I decided that it was time to get a better angle for my drivetrain. Naturally because nothing I do is ever simple, I had to redesign my skidplate. I dropped my rear output by 2" which greatly improved my driveline angles.

I got rid of my own skid plate because there was no way that thing was going to fit, and it's a big flimsy compared to what I wanted.

I decided that I should design this skid plate to eventually be able to support link mounts and some serious impacts, so it's made with a mixture of 2x2 x .188 wall tubing, 3/16 plate, and 1/4 x 4 band iron.


1627255411353.png


1627255419652.png


1627255427668.png


1627255435969.png


1627255443246.png


1627255471704.png


1627255480957.png


1627255488802.png


1627255496171.png


1627255505412.png
 
Mar 5, 2016

I've been busy lately. And shopping the shit out of Craiglist.

I found a York 210 near my house, and naturally it required a completely redesigned belt system and hose system because nothing is easy with the GPW.

1627255552184.png


1627255560257.png


1627255568038.png


1627255577970.png
 
Mar 11, 2016

I've been working on this thing like crazy. Mainly tying up loose ends from years of kicking the shit out of it on trail duty.

I mounted my 44's on my H1s, which was like my own Crossfit gym minus the cult following. It's now sitting pretty on 44 x 18.5's.

I built all my hoses for the radiator, cleaned up the mounts for my coil, lowered my engine down, rebuilt the brakes up front (the stock rotors were trashed), repacked the bearings, and got the belt system all figured out.

I then noticed after it was all together I had a giant water leak at the front of the engine. Shit. I rapidly became an expert on Ford small block timing covers and water pumps as whatever I have pulled from the Ford graveyard in my dad's shop was seriously weird. In short I found that I somehow managed to put a 1965 289 HiPo timing cover on my '89 351W. I found the right gasket over on the east side so I picked it up and put it back together. No more leaks.

My next mission is to figure out if my electric fan idea is going to work or if I will have to stick with a mechanical fan.

1627255612078.png


1627255617519.png


1627255629755.png


1627255639287.png
 
Mar 14, 2016

I've been busy lately. My fan system is built, my wiring is idiot-proof and I am just an odd-sized metric tap, steering u-joint and -6AN hose away from being completely ready to go wheeling.

I used this method to wire my fan, which is off of a 94 Lincoln Mark 8 and has been modified to fit in my GPW.

Seen here:
Volvo Electric Cooling Fan


1627255681714.png


1627255690094.png


1627255698384.png


1627255707288.png


1627255718220.png
 
Mar 18, 2016

My preparation for EJS has been all-consuming to say the least. I had a ton of shit to get done prior to being able to leave and I think I may just be at the point where I can load up and get out of here.

I decided to invest in an enclosed trailer since I now want to take the GPW on more trails out of state and on longer terms. Since I work for a company based out of Reno, I can usually finagle my way into partially expensing the miles on a Rubicon or Fordyce trip (since it's on the way to Reno). The problem is I hate leaving my open-top GPW out in a casino parking lot. Nor do I like having it get rained on.

Now the big problem. My GPW is on full widths and 44 inch TSLs. Shit.

1627255741286.png


1627255749403.png


1627255758127.png


1627255766428.png


1627255773915.png
 
Mar 18, 2016

Time to improvise and build some drive over fender things.

I built them out of 2x10s and they are heavy as shit, but get the job done. I have to air down a little to clear the door opening, but since I installed OBA on this thing it's no big deal to air up and down anymore.

Now I have a mobile party room.

1627255796230.png


1627255802424.png


1627255810355.png


1627255818284.png


1627255826657.png
 
Mar 18, 2016

Headlights,

I noticed that a lot of people have asked me in the past what headlights I had in this thing. Recently my lights burned out and I got a gander at what they were.

GE 4431

That said those things are just about impossible to find, so in true form I decided to upgrade them. As a note, the H4 capable 5.75" enclosures are glass, so be aware of that. They are not the cheap plastic ones.

Here is a parts list for you enterprising GPW / MB crowd.

5.75 " headlights: $38.24
Amazon.com: IPCW CWC-7003 5-3/4" Plain Round Conversion Headlight - 1 Piece: Automotive

H4 bulbs: $14.26
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83...=UTF8&qid=1458324432&sr=1-7&keywords=h4+bulbs

Ceramic H4 90* sockets: $7.75
Amazon.com: uxcell® 2 Pcs H4 Ceramic Wire Harness Connector Socket for Car Headlights: Automotive

Factory lights have one tab to locate them, H4 style have three. You will have to clip out some of the lip so the new light will fit, but its not hard with a body saw (or hacksaw) and a pair of pliers. Naturally I didn't take pictures of this.

The new lights are much brighter, and have way more logical light disbursement pattern. The high beams are also legit. Mission success.

1627255853865.png


1627255862258.png


1627255870347.png
 
Apr 17, 2016

I fixed most of the TSL death wobble; though there is still some movement at about 30 but I can live with it. I did take a measurement of all my tires and found that two of them were much more out of round than the other two. Both of those happened to be at the front. The fronts are the two that are 1/4" out of round. The rears are 3/8" and 7/16" respectively. Super Swampers are like Broadway actors - none of them are truly straight.

I moved the least out of balance to the front, replaced the shackle bushings, beefed up my steering box mount (since it was flexing) and things improved quite a bit.

1627255911418.png


1627255920319.png


1627255929550.png
 
Aug 12, 2016

I've been slowly updating the GPW and fixing minor things on it.

I noticed it was leaking from the input of the steering box on the way to Moab.

  • New roll bar speakers / dome light from a TJ
  • Rebuilt steering box
  • Added a hardwired HAM radio
  • Welded up giant crack in my 14 bolt axle tube

It steers much better now. It was kind of difficult to steer this beast when the fluid got warm. I was considering getting a bigger cooler, but I finally observed fluid seeping out of the input section of the box, I knew that the teflon seals in the spool valve were out. I did a full rebuild on the box and now it steers like a champion again with no leaks.

1627255957143.png


1627255963498.png


1627255971955.png


1627255989052.png


1627256004918.png
 
Aug 12, 2016

Here's a picture of the steering box before it came out. I can pull it from the GPW in about 10 mins, so it's not a huge ordeal.

The cabin up at Swamp Lake.

I also decided that there was a better way to store some of my extras like my water and gas cans. So I built a cradle to adapt a NATO can to a Con-Ferr Jerry can holder. Its really so my camp shower will fit on the Dusy trip. In an interesting twist, my dad claims to have the receipt for those Con-Ferr racks from 1968.

Since I'm paranoid of losing shit off the back of my flattie (which happens) I added a safety chain to hold them in place.

1627256038029.png


1627256043853.png


1627256050441.png


1627256064178.png


1627256080300.png
 
Oct 12, 2016

I've been consistently killing front bushings, so rather than doing what I normally do (unnecessarily upgrade) I decided to fix the bushing issue to get a few more seasons out of my leaf springs.

The exposed tube was essentially acting like a bushing cookie cutter, which would lead to the bearing surface of the bushing to break apart and allow the axle to move side to side. I added a .500 plate to the outside of the frame, subsequently ground the welds smooth and chamfered the edges to help from tearing bushings in half.

I've also added some braced boomerang shackles to help with the front steering. Mission accomplished.

1627256107329.png


1627256113032.png


1627256120045.png


1627256127985.png


1627256136412.png
 
Some quick electric fan tech:

I'm using a BMW dual fan switch that I tapped into a 1/4" NPT to 3/8" adapter using a 14 x 1.5mm tap (found here Amazon.com)

The application is for a 1992 318i. The Temperatures are for 195* low speed and 210* high speed.

Here's the amazon link:
Amazon.com

Here's an O'Reilly link:
Beck/Arnley 201-1520 - Thermo Fan Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

If you want a lower temperature range (180* and 195* respectively) :
61318361787 is the part number.

Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/URO-Parts-...F8&qid=1483726005&sr=1-1&keywords=61318361787

I dispensed with the BMW connector and soldered on some flat spade terminals to connect everything up easier.

I also added a degree of complication to my setup as I added a high speed override switch to mine as well as a way to override everything and turn the whole thing off. I'd be happy to share a schematic with you if that's something you're interested in.
 
Mar 9, 2017

37s on 1/2 tons were Obama's America
44s and 1 tons are Trump's America. And they rub like a motherfucker in the back if I run sans lift blocks.

Time to change that shit and Make My Flat Fender Low Again. So out go the 40 lbs of lift blocks, in goes another inch of wheelbase. Now the fenders are going to get clearanced.

I did some mathletics, using arcsin and some other obscure trigonometric wizardry to get the fender symmetrical front to rear without the indecency of a "comp cut". Comp cuts are the hand job of the offroad world. It's the easy way out if you don't care about what people think of you.

I also used this opportunity to adjust the size of the rear bins so the tires don't hit them at full stuff.

Time to cut some shit and scare the rats away from the orange tree.

1627256249126.png


1627256257602.png


1627256264201.png


1627256273103.png


1627256285990.png
 
I got the fenders and storage bins all finished. All it needs is seam sealer in the bins and some light filler on the outside. The good thing about Rustoleum flat black is you don't need to blend paints.

Tomorrow I'll do some redneck body straightening, otherwise known as the combination of sheetmetal, a tractor, come-along and a High-lift prior to applying any body filler.

I also included a nice photo of my GPW at the Hammers.

1627256365687.png


1627256375408.png


1627256382766.png


1627256389310.png



I must be a glutton for punishment, as I decided to undo the damage from Winch Hill 1 5 years ago (post #84) and Sun Bonnet Pass last month. The GPW now looks fresh again, and lower.

I primed it and it's ready for paint, but it got dark and I decided I was finished with photography for the day. Tomorrow, on-goes the Rustoleum Flat Black.

1627256400764.png


1627256409063.png


1627256416431.png


1627256424256.png


1627256433691.png
 
Mar 20, 2017

I took it out in its new lower and meaner form and it's ready to party.

Getting 44's stuck brings the suck. Seriously once it's sunk it's pretty hard to unsink it.

1627256461986.png


1627256469974.png


1627256478356.png


1627256485824.png


1627256493703.png
 
All this body work I've done has made me realize that my sliders don't stick out far enough. And my 44's hit them because of Obama.

More recently, I slipped off my slider in the snow and it hurt. Plus no one in the Willy's forum believes I have health insurance, and I've been known to wheel on injured feet. But I digress.

1627258319909.png


1627258328331.png


1627258336310.png


1627258380034.png


1627258387497.png


I added 2x2 .188 wall tubing to the side and gave it another 4" on each side.

My GPW is now 3 inches shorter, 8 inches wider and probably 35 lbs heavier. Incidentally, I noticed a similar occurrence in the dating scene when I moved from Chico to San Jose.

1627258408189.png


1627258415317.png


1627258422748.png


1627258430323.png


1627258437759.png
 
May 28, 2017

Warn hubs are remnants of Obama. Plus Amazon was running a hell of a sale on Yukon hubs. I was bored.

Warn will laugh at you if you want to buy new parts for them, and they tend to need a safe space when confronted with rocks.

Off they went, and on went Yukon hubs. This is what minor contact with rocks does to the dial of a Warn.

1627258508112.png


1627258515964.png


1627258524208.png


1627258531982.png
 
May 20, 2018

I decided that I was tired of having to:
A) Unload the GPW to put gas in it
B) Unload the GPW to get tools out of the tool box.

So I decided to invest some effort in building a cargo rack that allows me to pull a latch and easily get to the tools in the tool box, secure cargo better, and take this thing off easier.

I bought this and bolted it onto a hinged support with gas lift supports to make lifting it full of cargo easier.

Amazon.com: HTTMT MT371-029-M 43 Inches Universal Black Roof Rack Cargo Carrier w/Luggage Hold Basket SUV: Automotive


I also redid my fuel sending unit today to allow me to put fuel in this like a normal vehicle. I made sure to put it on the same side as the truck.

It's ready for party mode.

1627258585739.png


1627258594148.png


1627258601868.png


1627258609827.png


1627258619603.png
 
Tie Rod anti-rotation Rev1.

My tie rod would occasionally spin because of the ram on the GPW. I usually happened when there were lots of bumps on the trail and when it would happen it would just about rip the wheel out of your hand.

So I decided to copy this thread: tie bar antirotation system and make my own version of it to tighten up my steering and keep the tie rod in the right plane.

This really tightened up the steering and all but eliminated the death wobble from my out-of-round, unbalanced Craigslist 44 inch TSLs.

1627312198209.png


1627312213105.png


1627312225095.png


1627312234689.png


1627312243049.png
 
Aug 13, 2018

It's all fun and games until your Dana 300 turns into a split case.

The last picture is slightly before my transfercase decided it was non-binary.

1627312308933.png


1627312317853.png


1627312328122.png
 
Aug 13, 2018

Prior to my GPW becoming immobile I was busy making the steering cooperate with the 44s, adding more usable capacity and making it better off road.

I welded bungs into the cage so I could bolt something that mimics a stock vehicle roof rail. That means I can attach off-the-shelf roof racks should the trail destroy this one. And it means that I can take the rack off easily for when I decide to get another enclosed trailer / Bro-hauler.

I bought the rack for about $100 on Amazon, it's 60 inches long and 40 inches wide so I can fit all sorts of Bro-camping implements should the need arise.

1627312471091.png


1627312478944.png


1627312487983.png


1627312495734.png


1627312504881.png
 
Aug 13, 2018

Once I fixed my ram rotation issue, I noticed that my steering fluid was running a lot hotter - so much so that the steering would start to get un-responsive as the day went on. The single loop cooler had been in place for over 10 years but it's pretty apparent that's it's not enough for 44's. So time for an upgrade.

I bought a Derale fan and stacked cooler combo with a thermostat switch. I then decided to rewire the whole GPW because all projects spiral out of control with me.

I need to extend my reservoir filler as it tends to overflow a bit because it's lower than the top of the reservoir. I will fix this shortly.

1627312538264.png


1627312546329.png


1627312558353.png


1627312566617.png


1627312574518.png
 
Aug 18, 2018

I had some other things needing improvement on the trail:

My power steering pump was too low (below the highest point in the system) and would leak fluid. So I added a 1 5/8 hose (https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-5-8-inch-soft-wall-gas-oil-diesel-fuel-filler-hose-sold-per-inch/ ) and new outlet (https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1-5-8-o-d-billet-aluminum-oil-water-fill-neck-bung-cap-3-1-8-tall/ ).

I drilled a hole in the top cap, put in a grommet, a 90* fitting and a 3/16 clear hose to allow for ventilation and to keep any fluid out of the engine in case the fluid gets hot.

Now to the primary problem:
The old Dana 300 is now out. The good news is that only the case is damaged. My ZF transmission is showing no signs of damage, the driveshafts and yokes are also unharmed.

The case is a level of fucked that only California could deliver. I think only the outputs and shifting components actually survived. The rear extension housing is broken, the input retainer is broken, all gears are destroyed. The only thing holding the case together was the clocking ring, and this whole adventure seriously bent one of those bolts.

I plan on using the gears and various carnage for paper weights to taunt and confuse others in my office job. The case will get some M855 thrown at it for fucking up my Rubicon trip. I'll wait till it rains to try that out.

1627312624376.png


1627312632319.png


1627312639684.png


1627312648192.png


1627312656590.png
 
Oct 15, 2018

Atlas 2 time...

So I've been busy making my GPW meaner:

Out with the Dana 300 and it's Obama-era policies and in with my Atlas 2, 3.8 low range and 32 spline outputs.

I also found it fit to place this work of art in my living room for all to see prior to its installation in the GPW.

There were some issues with installing it, but overall it was pretty easy once I reworked the transmission mount.

1627312700742.png


1627312708945.png


1627312716374.png


1627312725743.png


1627312735105.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh