Project Flat F***er (fender)

[FordFascist]

I started this project on the old site in 2009 - and figured it was about time that I transfer the whole build over to here.

Background: My dad bought this 1945 GPW from its original owner who purchased it out of a crate in the port of Oakland in 1946. It was slated to be staged in Okinawa in September of 1945. Obviously that didn't happen. The original owner used it as a tractor, he had the post hole digger PTO attachment and was a Massey Ferguson guy - so he painted the GPW MF Red to match his other tractors.

My dad bought said Jeep in August 1967 - about a week after returning from Vietnam. He drove it around for a few months and then decided it needed more power so he retrofitted a 289 Hi Po out of a wrecked GT350 into engine bay and adapted a T10 to the D18 from this upstart company in Paso Robles called Advance Adapters.

He wheeled it throughout the 70s and early 80s but oddly enough it sat in disrepair for as long as I can remember. I'm guessing I had something to do with it. Or racing - that probably did too.

Note the bellbottoms and Armstrong True Tracks

My parents at Rubicon Springs at some point in the 70s.

 

[FordFascist]

After my last trip to Fordyce I was pissed about nearly rolling back into the river coming out of Committee. If that tree hadn’t broken my flatty’s backward tumble, and subsequently dented the corner of the tub, I might have been in deep shit.

I had one more semester of partying like a rockstar left, so in between whiskey cokes, Keystone Light, floating the river, riots and the occasional class; I plotted how I was going to make my GPW into exactly what I wanted.

After much Jeep and Gen4x4 pages regarding frame design, and conning a few mechanical engineers I know into running my design through solid works, I had a working idea. I would have had a job, but the damned economy went into the shitter. While looking for a job, I decided to build my 1945 GPW and fix a few things that had bugged the shit out of me for a few years.

This is what I started with, note the stock Samurai for comparison:

The Jeep Stuck on WH1:

Frame flex demonstrated going down WH 3:

I was done with this so I decided to rip this fawker apart

I ate a lot of Pizza and drank a lot of beer - obviously

 

[FordFascist]

Now for the cutting:

Boxing every bend in the frame. It adds significant amounts of strength vs. weight as it keeps the tube from crushing under a bending load:

Frame coming together:

Frame Bend gusseted on top and bottom with .250 plate:


Motor Mount:

Steering box mount:

 

[FordFascist]

Rear shackle mount to clear the tub:

Tubular cross member to reduce frame twist:

Transmission crossmember:


Transmission crossmember mount, sleeved through the frame and gussetted:

Engine, trans and axles installed:

Added gussets to the top of the motor mounts:

Time for Sliders, out of .250 wall 2x4" tubing using 2x2 .250 wall tubes for frame mounts:

 

[FordFascist]

Now for the part that makes any GPW restorer cringe: cutting the old body in half.

I marked where I would make my incision

The floor was already hacked to shit so cutting it out wasn't too big of a deal

Time for cutting:




It's sliced in half!

Utilizing the tractor to stick on its new frame:

The Jeep is now a bit longer. Now to size it up for body mounts, and possibly a floor.

Me looking at the work ahead of me - also contemplating a diet since I still had my Chico beer weight.

Time to start with a clean slate on the floor. Out with the old sheet metal!

...And in with the new

 

[FordFascist]

Sliders mounted:

Starting the body stretch, 8" in the doors, and 18" behind the door opening.

 

[FordFascist]

I then put a whole can of glazing puddy on the body to make everything smooth. I'm still questioning why I put so much effort into the body work on this think.

Painted!

After moving the seat to a location where someone other than an Oompa Loompa could drive my Jeep, I discovered my wheel was too far from my seat. Damn.

I figured I should put more racecar parts on this, so it was time to modify this:

 

[FordFascist]

Seat belts mounted to the cage:

Time to build a legitimate tunnel cover (out of metal this time):

Now that I had everything fit in it, time to tear it all back apart

Now it was time to bedliner the interior

I then built a spare tire carrier that can support the vehicle's weight. I was tired of worrying about someone bumping me and smashing the tub. This is bolted through the bumper which is sleeved, and then bolted to the back of the cage for added strength. All is .250" wall.

 

[FordFascist]

Now that I had all the other stuff completed, it was time to mount my 8274 I got from Fyrdude on the on the PBB.

I got a winch plate that almost fit my GPW perfectly. I sleeved holes through the front bumper and crossmember and used 1/2 x 7" grade 8 bolts for the front 2 bolts, then added 2 mounts for the rear bolts which were 1/2" grade 8. I also tapped the side parts of the frame and put in 2 grade 8 7/16" bolts per side. I'm pretty sure it's not going anywhere.

I tied the cage into the frame in 3 spots as well:

 

[FordFascist]

I decided to take the GPW out for a test run at Hollister Hills. Nothing too extreme. I didn't get many action shots because it was only myself and Max (Diablo169) there and it's hard to drive and take pictures.

The only thing I have left to do are put the stereo back in it, and move the axle to the second centering pin hole as it rubs a tiny bit on full compression. That's an easy and free fix, but I have not felt motivated to do it just yet.

·

 

[FordFascist]

August 2009 update:

I've since decided I've had enough of my Dana 18. I felt pretty stupid building this thing from the ground up only to have to take a large piece of it apart but I figured it was time to do it.

I was at Hollister Hills running with another buddy's Jeep for its first run when I decided to make an attempt at Truck Hill. As a side note, I've had nothing but problems with my Dana 18 in this thing.

Every time I went out wheeling something or another happened with that transfercase, not to mention it spewed oil out everywhere I went. I was always worried about breaking it due to the miniscule 10 spline outputs and the constantly-loaded intermediate gear. This time it decided it had enough and at the top it stopped the engine in 2nd low range. Thankfully it was on level ground, but I couldn't get the damned thing to move. Finally I dropped the clutch in 1st low range and it got going again, but I knew something was wrong.

After it popped out of low range a few more times getting back to the tow rig, I decided it was time to do something I always wanted to do: put in a ZF S5-42 and a Dana 300 with a centered rear axle. I was through having anymore of this odd-ball shit like Dana 18s and offset Dana 44 axle.

I have to give props to Chris (Mobil1Syn) for going out of his way to cart the Dana 300 up here on his way to the Rubicon last weekend. He saved my ass big time on this project. Thanks Chris!

Here is my progress:

Plans for this week include:

1. Building a crossmember
2. Skid plate for transmission / transfercase
3. Dana 300 twin stick shifter
4. Rear driveline
5. Exhaust
6. Transmission tunnel cover

All of this before Dusy on Labor Day, so I've got a lot of work ahead of me.

 

[csutton7]

Glad to see you over here.....

 

[FordFascist]

More progress:

Crossmember mounted:



Rear caliper brackets from AA Manufacturing:




Axle out and ready for final welding:

Axle painted:

The stock ZF shifter points the right at the steering wheel. Since my GPW is significantly narrower than an F-250, this was not going to work. I bent up some 1" pipe I had lying around to make the shift lever so I don't hit my steering wheel.

I then attacked the twin stick shifter with some parts from McMaster-Carr and some scrap .125" band iron from the original build. It shifts awesome now!

My next order of business is to finish that gaping hole in the floor so I can get this thing to Dusy Ershim by Thursday. It's close. Very close.

Mock up:

Sketched on metal and cutting
·

 

[FordFascist]

Just finished it tonight. Man am I tired of working on this thing. I didn't get the skid plate finished this time around, but I'll get to that in the coming weeks.

Also discovered on Dusy, why safety wiring is necessary on the transimssion mount bolts.

 

[FordFascist]

Various 2009 wheeling shots:

Slider test

Snow on the 'Con in October 2009

 

[FordFascist]

Then there was that time Max ( Diablo169 ) rolled his Jeep, and my friend Joe taco'd his transaxle at Pismo and had to be towed.

PSA: Don't use spacers on your high steer arms.

 

[FordFascist]

During the Winter of 2010 I decided to build a skid plate. First attempt. We all learn as we go. The tires from the rolled TJ have made their way onto my crawler.



Not much has happened with the GPW in its time avoiding the rain, other than some dune action in November. I decided that since I had nothing better to do while working in my office job, that I should concoct some new thing to occupy my creative energy.

I never got around to building a skid plate, and I figured now was the time. I've actually never come close to whacking the ZF on any obstacle since putting it in, nor did I ever cause my previous combo to make friends with rocks, but since small block S5-42s are getting harder to find, I figured I should build it a skid plate.

Apparently the cast aluminum case does not respond well to rock impacts. Something must be done.

I used 1/8 plate and then welded ribbing to the topside to keep the weight down, then used a removable 1/4" wall driveshaft loop to add some strength to the center section. I even had the foresight to add a hole for draining this monstrosity, even though fluid change intervals are very long in ZFs.

 

[FordFascist]

Snow wheeling in Slick Rock

Barrett Lake in August of 2010

B17 Wreckage

Fordyce October 2010

Trail Fix

 

[FordFascist]

Again with damned snow in Lake Alpine in 2011

Rubicon 2011

Dusy 2011

Fordyce 2011

First dent

 

[FordFascist]

The front springs finally gave way after Fordyce. I had 2 broken center pins and felt I would be on borrowed time for when I actually broke a leaf spring. To combat this, I ordered a set of Deaver main and second military wraps for up front and bored out all the other leafs to 7/16" centers.

It also had a worn out upper ball joint. Apparently I forgot to install the threaded insert properly when I built these axles 7 years ago. As I recall I started working on them after I had my wisdom teeth pulled, so I'm going to say the oversight in installation was due to the medication.

I got that all buttoned up in preparation for one of the only times I will ever be able to see the Rubicon in January for any period of time.

 

[FordFascist]

1 Tons and 42s

I want to be moved back to Jeep hardcore since this is:

• A custom frame and body build
• I have 1 ton axles
• H1s and 42s

On to the pictures. My Dana 44s and 38.5s never let me down, it's just time to up the ante and go to 1 tons, 42s and driveover fenders for my trailer.

Pictures in order:

1. Cleaned 60
2. Late model 14 Bolts bring the suck to remove all the brackets - even with a plasma cutter and a 7" grinder. It took me 3 hours and I lit my jeans on fire with sparks.
3. My Super Duty filled with tires off to dismount the Aluminum wheels. I am in the top 3 most redneck houses in the neighborhood.
4. Rear axle out of the GPW
5. 14 Bolt mocked in place

 

[FordFascist]

Edging closer...

Well I got my front axle together, and installed.

I ran into roadblock after road block on this thing. I got the front end completely ready, but reused the bearings on the passenger side, and they are worn to the point that the hub sits too deep on the spindle and now the locking hub won't fit.

So this means I have to ruin a brand new wheel seal and install a new inner bearing. Damn it.

On to the more fun stuff. I picked up a late model Suburban disc brake 14 Bolt and got it regeared only to discover the driver's side spindle is bent to shit. I was unimpressed.


Fortunately, I had another 14 bolt lying around, so I had that regeared. I peered into my parts pile to discover my 14bolt hubs for 14B v2 don't have bearings, races or studs. Also, I had sold off the rear disc brake kit I had owned for it for a number of years. Shit. After pricing all that shit out, and just about losing it, I decided I needed yet another 14Bolt lying around my yard.

So I just went and bought a parts 14 bolt for the hubs and bearings. Now I can put brakes in my Jeep and not act like a psychopath while doing it. On a positive note.

On a positive note, I want to give accolades to Rear End Specialties in Santa Clara for their excellent customer service when dealing with my 14Bolt debacle. Mike took care of me and put my gears into my new housing for a discounted rate. I really appreciate him and his guys going the extra mile to help me. If you are in the area and need axles geared, I would recommend him.

Onto the pictures.

This weekend (assuming nothing else goes to shit on this project) I should have this thing back on its own weight and driving.

 

[FordFascist]

Apr 19, 2013:

Got a bit more progress done. I figured out why my Warn hub wouldn't go on, which is referenced in this thread should anyone find that his Dana 60 spindle appears to be too far into the hub and not allowing the hub to seat:

Ford KP D60 with Warn 35spl hub = issues

I fixed it by re-purposing some D60 carrier bearing races and now all is well. Apparently my other hub is machined too far from the factory to fit Warn hubs. Now it's legit.

I got the front tires on it and I have my yard of 14 bolts (I now have 3 in various stages of functionality so if you need parts, please let me know). I also swapped to a 1 ton master which just barely touches my hood. I will put a piece of rubber over it and all will be fine.


Pictures in order:

1. Front Tires on
2. GM 1 ton Master Cylinder
3. 14 Bolt graveyard

I'm hoping to have this thing running to take to work on Earth Day.

 

[FordFascist]

Well I took it out on Memorial Day and it had zero issues. The brakes kick ass, and I love having extra cargo space and a Detroit up front.

To the pictures!

 

[FordFascist]

Nov 22, 2013

Well I broke a motor mount, and this subsequently caused other damage to the radiator. Word to the wise: use spring bushing-based motor mounts on your engine or prepare to break one!

I've already replaced the old already.

Picture order:

1. My mildly hacked old radiator with an even shittier shroud
2. The off-centered nature of it bugs me
3. New radiator
4. My broken motor mount
5. New Motor mount

 

[FordFascist]

More stuff has come off. I've built an upgraded radiator mount to make the grill easier to remove. I'm waiting on a foam lining for the lower mounts and I need to build new hard lines for my steering box.

I may even put in a clutch fan. We shall see.

 

[FordFascist]

Dec 1, 2013

I had some minor setbacks with my original design: namely that the radiator was angled slightly which meant there was no fan clearance.

I made a new lower mount which means I think I can fit a clutch fan.

All I have left as a winter project is to build a fan shroud.

I had to cut off the lower outlet and point it away from the center. Apparently my TIG welding skills are up to par since it's not leaking.

 

[FordFascist]

I broke a stud in my D60 and attempted many stupid fixes for it - but ultimately came to my senses and added a 3rd stud.

Sep 18, 2014
I will fully admit, that after many hours of lambasting from MtnYota I decided to auger the piece of the stud out with a carbide bit and put in 3 studs. Now I feel better. The GPW is ready to go smash into some shit once more!

I opted to add a 3rd 5/8" stud and I made some plates out of 1/2" to keep the spring plate from side loading (and ultimately snapping) the bolts.

 

[FordFascist]

Mar 11, 2015

The 14 bolt actually started leaking from its axle tube. It met a rock it didn't like on Fordyce and was humbled so it started crying like a bitch. But I fixed it. In truth I believe this is the old seam for the stock shock mount that I ground down and filled when I smoothed the axle tube so I'm not worried. Normally I would level it out and flap disc it all down like before, but I felt like the 14 bolt needed to learn a lesson.

I also found a hot sauce that also humbled me at KOH. This shit is no joke. I can normally eat the hottest sauce and be unaffected, much to the surprise of Indians, Mexicans, Vietnamese and Thais watching that one white person in disbelief - but this shit made me hiccup uncontrollably and have to kill it with milk. I know it's unrelated but I know how pepper sprayed rioters and my 14 bolt feel now.

 

[FordFascist]

May 18, 2015

I have been fighting an issue with fuel starvation / vapor lock at elevation (mostly under heavy throttle) for a few years now. I also have an old school vented gas tank that makes my garage smell like gas, and an splash out gas if overfilled. It can be dangerous, wastes gas, and is not good for the environment. It hasn't really hampered my wheeling this thing, but my 351W needs to be acquainted with the rev limiter more often.

I've run multiple pumps: E2000 and E8248. Both are about a foot below the level of my tank (which is a 30 gallon unit built in the United Airlines flap shop in 1969 out of high grade stainless steel) in my cargo area. The length of the fuel draft was about 6 feet of line to get to the pump - which I feel in hindsight was too long.

How did I determine I was vapor lock was occurring? I put clear tubing temporarily in the path return tube to see the what was actually happening (since I love trouble shooting, and moreover hate throwing parts at problems). Sure enough, after high throttle (because no fuel is in the return during) I started seeing inconsistent fuel flow by means of bubbles in the return.

E2000: fairly reliable, but not up to feeding the 351W at WOT. Maybe with a pusher pump it may be BARELY adequate, but it's max flow rate at 45 psi is slightly below the calculated fuel rate of 19lb/hr injectors.

E8248: Noisy fucker. I mean really noisy. Like helicopter turbine noisy. I could have tolerated the sinister sound if it didn't have the same propensity to vapor lock at WOT. Vapor locks even sooner because of the flow rate.

The fix:
I decided I was going to cut the filler hole in the center of the bigger, and follow my plan with my SpaceShuttle FJ60 - by making my own sending unit. I also planned on adding an emissions friendly gas cap along with a functioning evaporative emissions system. I went with an HFP-342 255 Lph in-tank pump which will more than support my engine.

I bought a generic steel filler neck that matches the ones on my Bronco so I can use a locking cap if I somehow feel the need to make filling this thing any more difficult.

Unlike the Space Shuttle, this tank was made of some of the highest grade Stainless I've ever had the pleasure of trying to handle. Also, there was the issue that draining a gas tank completely and minimizing the risk of burning down my brand new garage. I had a plan though. I spent the better part of Thursday and Friday creatively siphoning off fuel from the far reaches of the tank and letting it sit in the sun. Then I bought 4 lbs of dry ice and dumped it in the tank a few hours to busting out my body saw. I then used 32tpi blades and slowly cut a square hole keeping the blade cool with WD-40.

I then did some searching and discovered that the only bits that have a chance of drilling through this shit are cobalt. Thankfully Home Depot stocked the 1/8 and 1/4 bits for under $5 a piece. Those bits made quick work of the job.

I also adapted a Mustang vapor canister to hide under my frame in the back. I made a dimple-died bracket and bolted it on. I ran the lines from the tank today. I still have to find my Can-purge wires I wired some resisters in and hook it back up. I will do that some time this week.

On to the pictures.