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Portaband Saw Cutting: How to keep them straight/square?

I just tossed new rollers, then new blocks in my blade guides trying to get it to hold the blade tight, but there's still double the blade width in there in clearance

Sucks because I made a little 2" wide "table" for it outta AR plate and I hesitate to open up the notch in it to 3/8", currently it's just one abrasive saw kerf at about 3/16" and it'll rub on one side and of course that makes any blade instantly shit

The rollers are just off the shelf cam rollers, wonder if they make ones that are slightly larger OD to tighten up the gap, so the blade isn't laid over slightly and flopping side to side
 
tracyb said:
a hug, who doesn't need a hug. i had just got in from pounding a couple back. decided the ibb was what to look at before hitting the sack. shoulda gone with porn.

and no, not following along with the thread. i read op.... skim.... see something and respond.


i responded to your post because everyporta band question thread has the same 'i cut square with dog shit' and rarely much good useful advice. and no i dont consider chasing a line, or anything with shitty blades good advice.

good advice is to break in your saw blade, and tru your saw. dont chase a line unless in a pinch, and dont use shitty blades. (yes yota, you did have some good advice, just some that i dont agree with)

once you learn the right way you will never go back to chasing lines and shitty blades. good blades and a tru saw are less wear on the user and the tool

this is the saw i use, it is beat on almost daily (i'm a big fan of the m18 metal cutting circular saw more everyday) and gets tru'd up when need with whats at arms reach. not ideal but good enough. this saw will cut within 1/16" on 4x 1/2"wall sq tube

* also i mostly use Morse 10/14 or 8/11 blades but because most bandsaws destroy before wearing out blades, i recommend use a higher tooth count before getting too course.



certainly not proud of the shim job, it works. now that i'm thinking about it... its been just over a year since i last adjusted the shims.
Click to expand...

i run a m18 portaband and pretty much only buy lenox blades(just opened my new 5pack today), and if you follow along with the thread you will see why i posted what i did(i was directly replying to someone that brought up flat plate and not being able to follow the line), thanks for being a douchebag though super fucking pro portaband master :laughing::flipoff2:

and when the only blade you have is a shitty one and you need to get something done you fucking use it
 
[486 said:
;n314355]I just tossed new rollers, then new blocks in my blade guides trying to get it to hold the blade tight, but there's still double the blade width in there in clearance

Sucks because I made a little 2" wide "table" for it outta AR plate and I hesitate to open up the notch in it to 3/8", currently it's just one abrasive saw kerf at about 3/16" and it'll rub on one side and of course that makes any blade instantly shit

The rollers are just off the shelf cam rollers, wonder if they make ones that are slightly larger OD to tighten up the gap, so the blade isn't laid over slightly and flopping side to side
Click to expand...

icant imagine the guides being that sloppy definitely shouldnt be, its been a while but i think the rollers on my m18 have an offset centerhole so if you loosen and rotate them they tighten or loosen on the blade. <-iirc?

if you have to run it for now, i would drill a hole where the teeth are on the cutting table. so that the body of the blade can make contact with the plate but the teeth wont.
 
mine's a way old corded model
blade guides are less adjustable, they just got threaded holes that they go into, all concentric like
I'll have to look into maybe cocking the guide rollers in their recesses so that all four touch the blade? I'm sure if I could have done that I would have, but haven't looked at it in a while.
 
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