Picture of JK/JKU Cage

[NEVERLIFT]

Let get some cage designs thrown around.
Answer some questions for everyone, with pictures.

For example.

Did you keep the factory cage?
What would you change about your cage?
Did you buy a pre fabbed cage?
Where did you tie your cage into?
What tube O.D. and thickness did you use?

You don't need to answer all these questions, I am going to be the stupid guy in this thread and ask a bunch of questions.

I am in the pre pre stages of building a cage so make it easy for me...

 

[Kowboy]

I don't think the fact'ry cage is worth a fuck. I don't think a pre-fab cage is worth a fuck neither since they all go outta the way to avoid cuttin' the dash and most of 'em bolt together. Lots of pictures of mine on the forums. Goes to the frame in 6 spots but totally removable. Added a second B pillar so could get a proper 'X' behind the seats. Lil' liimited in design options in the back to clear the spare tire.


And it's powder coated ....

 

[NEVERLIFT]

All vehicles must be equipped with a roll cage fabricated of 1020 mild steel mechanical tubing or better (higher carbon content or alloy steel).
The following minimum mild steel tubing sizes for roll cage main structure, based on dry vehicle weight rating (DVWR) in race trim, not including occupants, are recommended:

DVWR Under 3200 lb. (1452kg) - 1.5” (38mm) diameter x .120” (3.0mm) wall thickness.
DVWR 3201 lb. (1452kg) - 4400 lb. (1996kg) - 1.75” (45mm) diameter x .120” (3.0mm) wall thickness.
DVWR Over 4400 lb.(1996kg) - 2” (50mm) diameter x .120” (3.0mm) wall thickness.

Roll cage main structure material may be CREW, DOM, WHR, or WCR mild carbon steel or 4130 chromoly alloy steel.

Snagged this out of the ULTRA4 rule book.

 

[NEVERLIFT]

So is it save to say i should just run 2"x.120" for my cage not 1.75"?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

You plan on racing it or just wheeling. Big difference

 

[NEVERLIFT]

Wheeling and I am sure it will end up on its top.

 

[gt1guy]

Will it be driven on the street? To me that's a big one.

Worst case scenario for a roll? A 2mph slow tip onto the roof doesn't require the same structure as barrel rolling down a 50' hill through trees & rocks.

What are the seats mounted to, cage or tub?


Getting a cage wrong can make it almost as dangerous as not having one. You're adding metal that if not properly restrained will try to kill you.


When I did mine, the one thing I knew for sure was that I'm an idiot. I needed to build something that could handle my stupidity. I also fully intend on driving it on the street. So my worst case scenario really is getting cut off on the highway at 70mph.....at least to me. That's go fast territory, except on concrete.

I ran a double B-pillar setup so the X-brace could be done without bends. I fully believe that's the most important part of a cage.

A-pillar brace to support the bend at the top of the dash.

Seats and harnesses mounts are part of the cage.

I have a 4dr, so there's a C-pillar with a proper X brace in it.

I used 2"x.120" wall for the cage with a bit of 1.75" in spots that only will see tension/compression and no bending. Seat mounts are all 1.50"x.120" wall.

All cage points that go through the tub are welded to the tub before they drop through and tie into the frame.

 

[NEVERLIFT]

One day it will be driven on the street.
Do they still say 4 or 5 points are illegal on road?
Seats will be mounted to the cage.
I am sure I will end up doing something dumb and flopping this thing hard.. so I guess I should really over build it.

 

[gt1guy]

I've never heard about harnesses being illegal in a vehicle. A lot of the safety shit on vehicles isn't mandated by law, I don't believe.

 

[Kowboy]

I've often wondered if the racin' harnesses are actu'ly legal or if the law says ya gotta have the fact'ry belts?? No idea.

Reckon it don't really matter tho since I never wear 'em.

 

[gt1guy]

I've often wondered if the racin' harnesses are actu'ly legal or if the law says ya gotta have the fact'ry belts?? No idea.

Reckon it don't really matter tho since I never wear 'em.

A 5 point harness is light years better than a factory belt............if you wear it....and it's tight.

This is what I found that is mandated by the Federal Gov. It's not a long list.

Airbags and Passive-Restraint Systems


Since 1995, NHTSA has mandated dual front airbags in all cars. That means any 1995 model vehicle or later will have airbags for both a driver and a passenger, with a few exceptions for low-volume vehicles.

Before airbags, NHTSA mandated that all vehicles have passive-restraint systems beginning in early 1989. Such systems — which often came as a motorized seat belt — protect a driver from hitting the steering wheel or a passenger from hitting the dashboard. Expect all 1990 or later models to offer that system, and many models offered before 1990.


Inside-Trunk Handle


NHTSA mandated that all vehicles with a trunk must have an inside-trunk handle as of early 2001. That means all 2002 or later models must have it — though many vehicles had it in earlier years, too. An inside-trunk handle prevents people from getting locked in a car’s trunk, whether through criminal actions or a simple mistake.


Tire-Pressure Monitor


NHTSA has required since 2007 that all vehicles come standard with a tire-pressure monitor. That means the feature can be expected on all 2008 or later new models, as well as on many cars sold before that date.

With tire-pressure monitors, the government mandate does not require a car to inform drivers which tire is low on air. Instead, many monitors simply announce that one tire is low on air. As a result, it’s a good idea to carry a tire gauge just in case the monitor indicates a tire is low.


Electronic Stability Control


Electronic stability control (ESC) improves the stability of a car by automatically braking wheels that are slipping. The government only recently mandated that ESC be standard in modern cars, making the decree for the 2012 model year. All cars made after then will include the feature, as will many models made before that date. Many cars sold before 2012 will have stability control as an optional feature. Sometimes stability control will have a brand name like StabiliTrak in GM vehicles or AdvanceTrac in Ford vehicles.

I don't have any of that stuff anymore. If you notice, ABS isn't on that list. But it does go hand in hand with the ESC because it all runs off the same pump. I'm glad I have a 2010 JK, so not having any of the ABS shit doesn't matter.

 

[NEVERLIFT]

Has anyone made a cage that makes it possible to fold the windshield down?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Has anyone made a cage that makes it possible to fold the windshield down?

You can do it with a Poison Spider trail cage. Theirs doesn't attach to the windshield.

 

[gt1guy]

Unless you weld the cage to the windshield frame, I don't see how any cage will keep you from folding down the windshield.

I reinstalled the parts (after cutting them up) that the windshield frame bolts to on my cage. Without them in the mix, the only thing keeping the windshield from flopping down is the outside brackets at the bottom of the windshield. To me, it just seemed like there would be a lot of leverage on those brackets from the windshield and they would allow the windshield to bounce around. I ran my A-pillar bars really close to the windshield frame and any movement of the frame just seemed like it would be cracked window city.


Here's the piece I cut out of the factory bracket.

The piece installed on the new cage. This keeps the windshield held in place just like that factory did it...........held in place at all 4 corners.

I can also say it's a fucking bitch to install the bolts in the windshield. I had to shorten the bolts and bend up a wrench to fit in there. It's just hard to reach with the rest of the cage there.

 

[Kowboy]

My cage also supports the windshield but can be disconnected. I would never do it 'cause no way I'm ever layin' the windshield down. Lots of bolts and looks stupid as fuck since they're shaped like a fuckin' banana.

 

[Kowboy]

My cage also supports the windshield ...

Prob'ly 30lbs lighter than Kevin's version.

 

[thedirtman]

I don't fold mine down but I do take it off for extreme wheeling.

 

[gt1guy]

Prob'ly 30lbs lighter than Kevin's version.

That came out really nice.

I never even thought of making the brackets removable, cause I have no plans to ever fold down the windshield. It looks like yours attaches to the cage where my upper windshield bar is running. Mine runs just below the bolts. My bolts for the windshield are a fucking nightmare to get to. I now have a specially bent up wrench just for the windshield bolts.

 

[Kowboy]

It looks like yours attaches to the cage where my upper windshield bar is running.

My upper windshield bar is set back so the fact'ry latches still function for the top. How'd you get around that if your bar is where my bracket is?

 

[gt1guy]

I went lower with the bar. All the "X" bars come in higher and curve down as they hit the windshield bar.

 

[NEVERLIFT]

I will probably keep my just below the windshield so i can make some type of aluminium roof. or maybe one day get a factory soft top to work.

 

[Kowboy]

The fact'ry latches need a LOT of room to function. Best have one onhand 'fore you weld up that windshield bar to check for clearance if'n ya got dreams of a fact'ry top. I went above the latches so I wouldn't block no view outta the glass since I'm tall.

Kevin coulda put it halfway down.

 

[gt1guy]

The fact'ry latches need a LOT of room to function. Best have one onhand 'fore you weld up that windshield bar to check for clearance if'n ya got dreams of a fact'ry top. I went above the latches so I wouldn't block no view outta the glass since I'm tall.

Kevin coulda put it halfway down.

That hurt

 

[terrahawk]

2" DOM through the dash and tied to the frame, kind of evolved over a few weeks. Going to ditch the dash now and aspire to be all metal like Kowboy.

 

[Kowboy]

Going to ditch the dash now and aspire to be all metal like Kowboy.

Outstandin'! Not only does plastic suck ... the extra legroom is a HUGE bonus.

 

[terrahawk]

Going for something like this with the dash.

 

[Kowboy]

Very nice. Levers look strange to me tho ... only see 2 for the transfer case and some goofy lookin' third lever 'tween the seats.

Interestin' that they kept the fact'ry HVAC controls just like we did. Mine been bindin' up a bit so the boys at TNT are gonna try to tweak 'em some while it's in the shop.

 

[thedirtman]

Did you weigh the factory dash to compare to the aluminum?

 

[tac1]

I did a jk cage recently for a friend, I used some of the ideas from this thread

The tubing is 1.75" x .120 wall DOM I was a little concerned about the weight of the jk in the future so I did a double b-pillar.

The owner is around 6'6" so we lowered the seats and moved the b-pillar back about 5"

Owner wanted to keep his frameless top, door surrounds, and have the jeep seal up so I had to keep the factory dimensions and it limited a couple gussets I wanted to add

We went through the dash and tied to the frame with sandwich plates through the floor. Except at the c-pillar where I just did an internally sleeved splice into the factory location. The owner wants to add some wheelbase in the future and I was afraid any work here would have to be re-done.

Removed the dash speakers and made an aluminum cover plate

I cut off and re-used the stock windshield mounts.

Front frame tie in, the hardware looks small in the picture the floor bolts are 1/2" and the bushing bolt is 5/8"

Rear frame tie in, plates are 1/4" I mated the contour of the wheel well bump bending with a 20 ton press, the area was mostly flat, the bends are very small.

I used tabs to tie the cut dash structure back to the cage

 

[gt1guy]

That came out really nice. Good job.

The alum frame for the dash can turn into a nightmare real fast. Looks like you did a fantastic job dealing with it.