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Picked up a shitbox!

chaplinfj60 said:
rear locker or spool? i ask because i have a spool and i go through axle flange gaskets like mad, also stage 8 fasteners will be your friend for the rear axle
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Detroit locker.

I've just heard that gaskets are better than rtv on the axle flange...

I planned on using the factory axle flange fasteners with blue loctite, I assumed they are grade 10 hardened bolts. Your talking about stage 8 with head lock plates?
 
yes, lock things on stage 8. detroit will give some and i dont think you will have an issue. i did get the file to 3d print the flange gaskets. i need to run a batch and see how they work. send me a Pm and can run a pair off for you too.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
yes, lock things on stage 8. detroit will give some and i dont think you will have an issue. i did get the file to 3d print the flange gaskets. i need to run a batch and see how they work. send me a Pm and can run a pair off for you too.
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Just sent you a PM. Sounds badass!
 
I am having hell finding the inner oil seal that goes on the hub of my Dana 70. I ordered 2 sets from autozone so far and both came in wrong. Last night I took the hub back off so I can see if there is a number on it and below is what I found.

I was told the axle is from a 2001.5, dodge, 2500 truck, 4wd, diesel. Which when I google it, that comes up pretty accurately, but parts people can't seem to get me the right oil seal for the hub. I bought brake pads for said truck yesterday and when I got home they seemed to be the exact same as what is in the calipers.

It looks like it says> CR-540970 or CR-S40970.... It's not a good pic, but that is literally how blurry it looks in person too!

20230130_180316.jpg
 
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Looks like CR-540970 to me. Here's what I found for OEM cross reference

540970,CR 540970; Seal

CR 540970 Seal, You Can Buy High Quality CR 540970 Seal from yoyoparts.com
www.yoyopart.com
 
If you can get the old one out without mangling it too bad rock auto has the Timken 9864S listed as correct according to cross reference listed above and if you click info it gives you the dimensions for the seal.
 
Thanks for y'alls help. I stopped and picked up these seals Tuesday and they are a perfect fit!

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20230131_164752.jpg
 
I started on the front axle build Tuesday, I have to buy the 1/2" studs to complete the high steer arm kit, I ordered the inner axle seals that I dont have... We are going camping this weekend, but hoping to have the guts of this front axle completely built by next weekend.

Also- 2 of my really good friends are building 1 ton jeeps in our shop as well.... Kind of fun. We all got out of wheeling about 7-9 years ago and I was the first out of our group to start building a jeep again, it's cool to see my close friends start building jeeps again.

This is a slap together YJ. 5.3LS, 4l60E, 241, ford 1 ton axles on 42's. He has the motor running, drive shafts from tom woods are supposed to be here any day. He has a super low COG and 116" wb on 42's. Still has a lot to do, but is moving along good.
20230201_140121.jpg


This is my other buddy doing a 1 ton swap on his XJ. Completely built 1 tons, chromollys, PSC, ARB lockers, 5.38 gears. He is doing the unibody plate kit right now, then start getting the axles under it. He has a LS and drive line to put in it, but for now is going to try to get it going with the 4.0.

20230201_140131.jpg
 
So, I hit a big fat pause on the jeep for about the last month. I am fixing to get back on it.

I am assembling the front axle slowly and I noticed that my high steer kit is for cross over steering and has 1 long side and 1 short side. The short side is too short for full hydro IMO. So, with that I am looking at other high steer kits and it looks like balistic fab is the go to, but I thought everyone wants a double sheer setup where it attaches on the king pin but has a bolt that goes down to the old steering location on the knuckle.... I'm pretty sure the ballistic 8" ram high steer kit for kingpin does not do that.

We have a wheeling trip coming up next weekend and I wont have the tons under the jeep yet... But as soon as we get back I am buying an almost brand new set of 43" MT baja pro x stickies on raceline aluminum beadlocks...

Which means I'll be selling my 40" MT baja pro xs, battle born 17" beadlocks 8x6.5 and my custom DIY 17" beadlocks for 5x5.5... if anyone knows someone who needs any of these parts!
 
Today I am about to order another $1k worth of parts or more..... :homer:

WFO kingpin high steer arms for full hydro- $396
Adams Drive shaft dana 20 1350 yokes (qty 2)- $225
front d60 1350 yoke- $60
Front 2005 GM 2500 calipers and pads (for front d60)- $290
9/16" lug nuts (32)- $26
9/16" studs (front 60 has 1/2")- $60


This should get my 1 tons completed as far as parts go....

Once I get the axles under the jeep, I have to get drive shafts made and once again new brake lines.... :shaking:

I'm a rockwell guy at heart and I used to dog 1 tons and their costs..... Now I really know how much it is to build proper 1 tons... and it is as stupid as I claimed it was back when I was wheeling with my big cheap square axles!
 
Wife open designs sells an expensive DIY driveshaft kit.

Are you using the ARP kingpin studs for the high steer or just stock ones?
 
RunningProblem said:
Wife open designs sells an expensive DIY driveshaft kit.

Are you using the ARP kingpin studs for the high steer or just stock ones?
Click to expand...

WFO offered the ARP studs as an adder and I went for it. I dont want to worry about shearing off the studs....

I'll probably just buy my drive shafts from Adams or tom woods.
 
I'm having to take a breather from working on the jeep... My wife is making me do some spring work. I had to finish some projects in the house. Last year I worked a ton of over time so we didn't get to camp much so my wife booked a bunch of camping this summer starting in 2 weeks so I am having to work on the camper, change the toilet, fix a soft spot in the floor and I just re-sealed the roof.
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RunningProblem said:
anything special about Adam or Tom a local shop couldn’t do?
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I've always gotten my drive shafts made at ft worth gear and axle, but they have always been pretty pricey... My buddy just had 2 drive shafts made from adams with double cardan joints on 1310 joints for what I felt was a really fair deal. I'll probably give ft worth gear and axle a shot, but I dont hold up much hope for a fair price.
 
Mike Honcho said:
Nice shop!
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It's my dad's shop. Him and I built it back in 2005. I plan to build a shop at my house, but I enjoy working on my stuff at my dad's, it lets us still work on things together... although he is getting older now so I mostly work on stuff and he just drinks beer and bull shits the whole time. My wife had me buy all the materials to build a shop 3 years ago, I have all the materials sitting there for a 40x50 shop...buuut... not having a shop gives me a reason to hang out with the old man...
 
chaplinfj60 said:
good am,

so have driven this with 7.17 yet.

what did you think?
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Life got in the way last year and I didn't touch the jeep. We now have our first wheeling trip of the year coming up the first weekend of March and I have to get the jeep finished.

Rear axle is ready to drop in-
Front axle gears are set-
Steering mount is built-
I swapped the studs on the front hubs from 1/2" to 9/16" (major PITA)-

I'm ready to put the hubs on the front axle, but I seemed to have lost the fucking bearing nuts.... I'm having trouble finding them on the internet as well.... If anyone can point me in the direction of where I could get them quickly or a part number ( I need all 3 pieces for 1 side).

Hoping to have my jeep on the lift this weekend and start the axle swap....

20240107_164535.jpg


hubs.jpg
 

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  • axle 2.jpg
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Just for clarification, this is the bearing nut kit I am after.... I have found it on ebay, but not anywhere else.... any help would be greatly appreciated!

rsg-d60wbnk60 Wheel Brg NUT KIT.jpg
 
1Sinner said:

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Torque king has everything.
Click to expand...

Ordered.... Thanks!
 
DFW Rusty said:
Very similar build, but no. That jeep is only about 20 minutes from my house and i've had a lot of friends texting me asking the exact same question.
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You're the first person that came to mind when I saw it, I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought that. :laughing:
 
The fuckery continues..... Last night I figured I would atleast go ahead and put one complete hub/ brakes/ drive slug together while I wait on the bearing nut kit for the opposite side.

I get the bearings greased, installed, install the revolution drive slug kit, and when I go to slip my rotor on it doesn't fit the hub :shaking:... The ID of the rotor that came with my disc brake kit is too small. It appears to be about 8 3/8" ID, which I need about 8 3/4" ID to clear my hub. I think "no problem" I have the rotors that came with the axle. I slipped 1 on and it cleared the hub. However, it's too thick for the caliper that came with my kit... 🤦‍♂️. I try to find where I bought the kit... I can't find the e-mail from buying it so for the life of me I can't find where I bought the kit so that I can find out if I fucked up and bought the wrong kit or something.... I am on the fence about just biting the bullet and ordering a new kit, I was going to start getting these axles under the jeep this weekend, but I need the brakes before I finish the assembly on the axle.

If anyone has a good outlet for a GM D60 disc brake kit that would ship fast I would like to know about it.

First pic is the rotor that came with my kit (the small one), second pic is the rotor that came with my axle that fits over my hub, and the last pic is the bracket that came with my kit.

rotor 1.jpg
rotor 2.jpg
brake bracket.jpg
 
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