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Phat kitty, the wife's big rim street brawler

Thanks guys!

6gun has me thinking of a stark white 70s Ltd wagon with woodgrain sides and a turbo 460. Dammit.

So new news is a 120 dollar score of some mickey drag radials. 295 55-15s. Time to massage the wheel tubs an inch to make em clear at full bump! We have settled on a 315 rear street tire as well.
 

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I'm still on the fence about running these street stock style front upper control arms though. Aluminum cross shafts on steel sounds like a nitemare even with weekly greasing. But there is plenty of room for the downpipe so that's a plus. I decided to leave them after tweaking the arms to get the upper ball joint at 0 degrees at static ride height.

I notched the stock upper and we are concerned about the poly bushings melting with the wrapped downpipe only 1/2" away. They are going on the shelf just in case.
 

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It took a touch of the torch to tweak the bar. Along with rolling the ends 6 degrees. Tacked the frame mounts in as well. They fall into the stock location of the spring pocket ends so there is no less support than before.

Now its trailer fender time!
 
I'm still on the fence about running these street stock style front upper control arms though. Aluminum cross shafts on steel sounds like a nitemare even with weekly greasing. But there is plenty of room for the downpipe so that's a plus. I decided to leave them after tweaking the arms to get the upper ball joint at 0 degrees at static ride height.


Those street stock arms will be fine. I ran a set of those on the street in my 72 Camaro and had zero problems. Are those the ones with the bearings in the pivot points or are they bushings?
 
Time to fix the positive camber issue metric frames have. 2nd gen F body C5 spindles and ultra low friction taller UBJ's.

Now I have to decide if I am going to relocate the upper ball joint on the arm. 400" or go all in and fabricate new lowers from tube to push the track width out .400".
 

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Those street stock arms will be fine. I ran a set of those on the street in my 72 Camaro and had zero problems. Are those the ones with the bearings in the pivot points or are they bushings?
They are bushings. I've gotta shorten them .500" this weekend and gusset the ball joint pad. More for peace of mind but also to bring the camber in check.
 
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Camber and caster are now in check! I moved the ball joint some. Later on I may just chop off the upper arm mount and put something where I can adjust to tweak the roll center but for now I think it will do. This is with Cpp C5 30014 spindles and 1" taller ultra low friction upper ball joints. The camber at ride height is at .70 degrees and the caster is at 4 degrees positive. Using a string and angle gage id say that bumpsteer won't be an issue or much noticeable if at all.
I'm not happy with the dust boots that speedway motors recommend. I'm planning to look at energy suspension to see what they offer when using the taller ball joint.
 
When you have more time than money you make your own tabs for your hardlines to mount to..
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I Also started plumbing the fuel lines. It's nothing special, -10 feed and-8 return. Mostly hardline because I dislike long hose runs. -10 feeds from the tank sump into a 10 to 12 Y block. A fuel lab brushless pump, amazon China filters with aeromotive filter elements. Holley 5/8" fuel rails and pushloc hose fittings. I wound up making a bracket to hold the regulator behind the intake. My fingers are crossed that I do not run out of fuel.
 

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I feel like this car will never get done. Smdh.

I spent last weekend building the all in 1 rear crash bar, frame crossmember, trailer hitch and parachute mount. I bent up 2 bars to help keep the fuel lines on the car if I cant tune it to keep the wheels down. I don't plan on kissing the back bumper but just in case.
 

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I didn't think of that. Indo not see this car getting giggle gas anytime soon though. This will be my 1st anything with CO2 controlled wastegates. Later down the road I don't think it would be too hard to swap over to giggle gas for the waste gates.
 
oh right, make sure and get set up with a hose to fill that little bottle off your mig welder tank (or whatever bigger co2 tank you got)

it's dirt simple to do, and they charge like 20 bucks to fill the little 5lb ones, and $60 to exchange the 64lb big ones
 
Wheels have arrived. 18x 8.5s up front with plans for a 255. After diddling around with gm 6 piston calipers I've decided to go with 14" front vette rotors and 5th gen Camaro 4 piston calipers.
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Rears are 20x11s and 315s or 305s out back.
 
Thanks brother's! So after hodge podging a few 4 piston calipers that all failed to make me happy. As well as struggling over price differences I went with OEM C7 J57 6 piston calipers. These with Hawk yellow pads should work well until I can upgrade to the carbon 15.5" rotors from the 14".

Accel ceramic plug wires are here so I can relocate the coils on the frame next to the lower control arms. Fun stuff.
 

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Glad to see you are making sure it will stop as well as go. Back high school had a guy who just couldn't understand why I wouldn't help him put a 454 where the 6 cylinder had been in his Chevy 2! He got upset when I asked him how was he going to stop it with those tiny drum brakes
 
I always do the engine last. This is mainly a garage chassis build but I'm stopping is the highest priority .

I needed to calm my nerves so I whipped up some fuel rail mount to fit the injectors. Gotta finish this intake.
 

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And brakes are done! As usual, it wasn't bolt on. But C7 6 pots will fit after you machine or cut down the caliper mouning ears. G body braided lines work pretty ok.
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This weekend is ignition wire assembly and mounting the coil packs. They are going to sit on the valve covers with the aftermarket mounts. And pressure test the fuel system.
 
The inner wheel tubs are also done. And yes I use lots of seam sealer. The spare tire well has also been raised to clear the the trailer hitch, fuel pump and battery box. One day I hope to get a large bearing center section with an oil pump so an oil cooler will sit under the well also.
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Fuel system is plumbed! I got the Tank mounted also. The fuel lab pump is new to me. The last time I went this quick/fast the old SX pump was my go to. Pwm fuel pump control will be nice to reduce the noise.
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Under the car, the 2nd fuel filter wound up tucked to the frame rail and coupled directly to the hardline.
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