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Phat kitty, the wife's big rim street brawler

ANGRYBLACK

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Thanks guys!

6gun has me thinking of a stark white 70s Ltd wagon with woodgrain sides and a turbo 460. Dammit.

So new news is a 120 dollar score of some mickey drag radials. 295 55-15s. Time to massage the wheel tubs an inch to make em clear at full bump! We have settled on a 315 rear street tire as well.
 

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ANGRYBLACK

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I'm still on the fence about running these street stock style front upper control arms though. Aluminum cross shafts on steel sounds like a nitemare even with weekly greasing. But there is plenty of room for the downpipe so that's a plus. I decided to leave them after tweaking the arms to get the upper ball joint at 0 degrees at static ride height.

I notched the stock upper and we are concerned about the poly bushings melting with the wrapped downpipe only 1/2" away. They are going on the shelf just in case.
 

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ANGRYBLACK

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250
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NJ NY
20210904_195102.jpg

It took a touch of the torch to tweak the bar. Along with rolling the ends 6 degrees. Tacked the frame mounts in as well. They fall into the stock location of the spring pocket ends so there is no less support than before.

Now its trailer fender time!
 

SLOWPOKE693

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I'm still on the fence about running these street stock style front upper control arms though. Aluminum cross shafts on steel sounds like a nitemare even with weekly greasing. But there is plenty of room for the downpipe so that's a plus. I decided to leave them after tweaking the arms to get the upper ball joint at 0 degrees at static ride height.


Those street stock arms will be fine. I ran a set of those on the street in my 72 Camaro and had zero problems. Are those the ones with the bearings in the pivot points or are they bushings?
 

ANGRYBLACK

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NJ NY
Time to fix the positive camber issue metric frames have. 2nd gen F body C5 spindles and ultra low friction taller UBJ's.

Now I have to decide if I am going to relocate the upper ball joint on the arm. 400" or go all in and fabricate new lowers from tube to push the track width out .400".
 

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ANGRYBLACK

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NJ NY
Those street stock arms will be fine. I ran a set of those on the street in my 72 Camaro and had zero problems. Are those the ones with the bearings in the pivot points or are they bushings?
They are bushings. I've gotta shorten them .500" this weekend and gusset the ball joint pad. More for peace of mind but also to bring the camber in check.
 

ANGRYBLACK

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20211010_180026.jpg
Camber and caster are now in check! I moved the ball joint some. Later on I may just chop off the upper arm mount and put something where I can adjust to tweak the roll center but for now I think it will do. This is with Cpp C5 30014 spindles and 1" taller ultra low friction upper ball joints. The camber at ride height is at .70 degrees and the caster is at 4 degrees positive. Using a string and angle gage id say that bumpsteer won't be an issue or much noticeable if at all.
I'm not happy with the dust boots that speedway motors recommend. I'm planning to look at energy suspension to see what they offer when using the taller ball joint.
 

ANGRYBLACK

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NJ NY
When you have more time than money you make your own tabs for your hardlines to mount to..
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I Also started plumbing the fuel lines. It's nothing special, -10 feed and-8 return. Mostly hardline because I dislike long hose runs. -10 feeds from the tank sump into a 10 to 12 Y block. A fuel lab brushless pump, amazon China filters with aeromotive filter elements. Holley 5/8" fuel rails and pushloc hose fittings. I wound up making a bracket to hold the regulator behind the intake. My fingers are crossed that I do not run out of fuel.
 

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ANGRYBLACK

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NJ NY
I feel like this car will never get done. Smdh.

I spent last weekend building the all in 1 rear crash bar, frame crossmember, trailer hitch and parachute mount. I bent up 2 bars to help keep the fuel lines on the car if I cant tune it to keep the wheels down. I don't plan on kissing the back bumper but just in case.
 

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