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Phat kitty, the wife's big rim street brawler

[486 said:
;n150891]Those chinese 60mm gates coilbind the springs before they're open even 1/2", or at least mine did until I cut and extended the top cap

def. dump them out atmospheric, putting them back into the exhaust gets complex and you gotta put flex sections in them or they'll cause all sorts of cracking issues from differential heating
it'll be quiet until they open, if you're running a muffler on the turbine outlet
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Thanks for the insight. I was wondering about that. When i took them apart to inspect them it took some serious compression. We are going to rely on electronic /CO2 boost control. I need to start researching what i will need for a spring! We are all set to dump into the exhaust just before the Catalytic converter. Once i get the front radiator support roughed in the downpipe is next. The cooling fans are super close but from looks of it it all should work out. Merge pipe, flex pipe and all.
 
The waste gates dump is done! As mush as I wanted to get critical with the merge it would have been wonky. Its 70 degrees between the two gates with 63mm tubing. I'm happy with the plug access as well. I should be able to turn the tire to full lock and use a long extension.

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Thats with minor trimming of the inner fender.


For now I'm thinking toward to mount the ignition coils in front of the upper controller arms on the frame.
 
When you have more time than money. I made the driveshaft loop from metal under the welding table. Some 5/16" thick angle, 0.120" Wall 1" tube and schedule 80 pipe sections.
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Got the front exhaust hanger done as well. I will spend the next few nights with the flapwheels on the exhaust welds.
 
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I think we are due for some burnout pics
 
Car is looking good! I feel your pain trying to squeeze all that pipe in and around the car. I helped a buddy of mine build a turbo LS Nova a few years ago and that was one of the hardest parts. Nice job! :smokin:
 
Mr. Mindless said:
Started looking for some things to follow over here. Glad I caught yours. Looking good.
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Thanks Brother.


After hunting for a proper oil drain setup I decided to just do it myself. I welded a -12 AN male fitting to the timing cover. Coupled with a short radius 90 degree fitting it will pass right under the PS pump. For my paranoid ass I will make a simple stainless steel heat shield from an exhaust tube leftover so the wastegate dump doesn't get the hose too hot.
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I also did not need the front of the frame section ahead of the steering box so I Chopped it off to make more room. My goal is to squeeze a 4" thick air to air intercooler along with the AC condenser up front. So this will help me cram all the cooling pack in the space I have (Malibu`s have the least under hood space of all the G Bodies). Things get harder when you don't want to buy the grudge race fiberglass bumper air dam combo. Personally I feel flush mounting the bumper ends looks like ass and takes away from the 70s to 80s styling. So I am bringing the inside edge of the bumper 1/2" from the fender. I will trim the bumper fillers to close the gap.

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Sunday was spent assembling the 3rd member. It's 3.70 Richmond gears, Eaton Truetrac, Timkin bearings and 31 spline axles. I also cut off the frame side of the lower control arm bushings and replaced them with 2" ballistic joints. I also had some time to build the Panhard bar. Once i get the axle hubs machined it will be rolling again. From the looks of it we should be able to fit a 315 or 335-20 street tire and 28X9 slicks no problem.

Still left to do out back is the sway bar mounts and shock mounts, drum brakes and brake lines.
 
Ok so a change of plans with the rear. The plan hard bar is gone, i needed space to clamp ballast to the axle.. And I added adjustable upper torque box mounts. I also moved the sway bar to the axle. It will be welded up this weekend.
 

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The rear suspension is done except for the sway bar links! I have a gusset or 2 that I want to add to the frame but as it sits lifted with the ole HF floor jack at the left lower torque box area I can get all 3 tires off the ground and the doors still open easy and smooth. This will go a long way to eliminate most of the GM shakes and rattles. Most importantly the frame no longer twists, flexes or beams. There is very little torsional movement at the floor. That is with no roll cage at all.
 

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ANGRYBLACK said:
The rear suspension is done except for the sway bar links! I have a gusset or 2 that I want to add to the frame but as it sits lifted with the ole HF floor jack at the left lower torque box area I can get all 3 tires off the ground and the doors still open easy and smooth. This will go a long way to eliminate most of the GM shakes and rattles. Most importantly the frame no longer twists, flexes or beams. There is very little torsional movement at the floor. That is with no roll cage at all.
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That's bad ass!

I could jack my old Camaro up and have it do weird shit like that because the chassis was so stiff. I had a cage that went from the front bumper to the rear bumper and tied into the chassis in at least a dozen places.... Nice job getting that chassis so stiff without a cage! :smokin:
 
Been following this from the start and just wanted to say how awesome your tube work on the exhaust is! As a Ford guy and wagon fan, I dream of a Country Squire LTD pushed by a nasty 460. Maybe one day?
 
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