Flatbed
Web Wheeler
Thanks for the update brother. REALLY looking forward to finished project. Always loved wagons.
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Phat kitty, the wife's big rim street brawler
- Thread starter ANGRYBLACK
- Start date
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
So I got the vent holes covered in stainless steel mesh. Iirc it's 80 mesh. I've used it before and it doesn't let much water droplets in. The fan is only 80 watts and has plenty of other area to vent the heat out. This should get most of it out and around the tire. I hope .
There are small job like finishing up the HVAC box has taken some time. But it's almost done. DEI heat shield is a very good product from the looks of it. It cuts easy with new shears. So if you use it get some fresh sharp
scissors.
There are small job like finishing up the HVAC box has taken some time. But it's almost done. DEI heat shield is a very good product from the looks of it. It cuts easy with new shears. So if you use it get some fresh sharp
scissors.
Last edited:
Flatbed
Web Wheeler
I am so looking forward to a Vid of a long ass burn out in this thing.
Firstram
Red Skull Member
Right? Badass for sureI am so looking forward to a Vid of a long ass burn out in this thing.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
Small details and small items going in lately.
- Locking dipstick and LS adapter in. Took some tweaking of the tube and a few setups and stare sessions to get the fuel lines, and figure out how and what is needed to service everything under there.
- Firewall heat shield glued on. I still have to buy some Resbond #: 907GF-6 to seal this and the v bands up asap. I have found that nothing is better in severe duty applications.
- Got the exhaust hangers done.
- Also layed down a layer of FatMat on the rear floor panel, cover extra 10 lbs that they called the floor. I trimmed it for the mini tubs and the wheel tub upholstery.
- Got the Transgo check valve kit installed with some scrap hose from the oxygen service line out of the work truck. Plumbed it up to the firewall.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
I started throwing parts at it.
Wired up the starter lead and interior 12 V battery lead's to the fuse box. Mega fused 2/0awg MSHA through a PAC relay to the starter with fused MSHA 4GA through a 250 amp rated relay to the PDM and cars fuse panel. Crimped connections with die electric grease and adhesive sealed heat shrink. It's nice and cool out so it is good time at night to layout wire.
Wired up the starter lead and interior 12 V battery lead's to the fuse box. Mega fused 2/0awg MSHA through a PAC relay to the starter with fused MSHA 4GA through a 250 amp rated relay to the PDM and cars fuse panel. Crimped connections with die electric grease and adhesive sealed heat shrink. It's nice and cool out so it is good time at night to layout wire.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
Saved a trip to the junk yard to source a column from a floor shifted GM. New CD4 delay wiper switch and new turn signal switches are going in along with new bearings. Some heat shrink to cover it up should hardly be noticable when it's in the car.
The shutdown circuit wire will go in soon. Tons Performance for the win with the fabric coated PVC It will run through the incar e stop and the rear inertia switch.
The shutdown circuit wire will go in soon. Tons Performance for the win with the fabric coated PVC
It will run through the incar e stop and the rear inertia switch.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
I took some time today to get the rear 1/4s insulated. 3/8" rubber backed jute padding and 2lbs. sq. ft. MLV. I Did the spare tire access door with the same combo. The tubs have the MLV Atop the second layer of foil faced foam, then the rubber backed Jute over that so whatever material i cover it up with will feel softer.. I hope to cut down some tire storage covers to replace the interior panel that i had to trim away.
I have the Floor cover/false floor to go in but I'm waiting for the glue to fully cure on the spare tire hatch door. I also have to finalize a 110v circuit breaker and add the Male plug for the 55 amp battery charger. Then then work towards the front after i pull out the seat and wiring to lay in the MLV on the Firewall and floor. Cut out channels for the Holley harnesses and build the new power door lock harness, power seat relay harness and run the door lock/window speaker harness into the jambs.
I am 1000% sure that the replacement carpet won't fit.
I have the Floor cover/false floor to go in but I'm waiting for the glue to fully cure on the spare tire hatch door. I also have to finalize a 110v circuit breaker and add the Male plug for the 55 amp battery charger. Then then work towards the front after i pull out the seat and wiring to lay in the MLV on the Firewall and floor. Cut out channels for the Holley harnesses and build the new power door lock harness, power seat relay harness and run the door lock/window speaker harness into the jambs.
I am 1000% sure that the replacement carpet won't fit.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
Spent the day getting the body bolted down and what i hope is aligned straight to the frame. With a mix of square body truck cab mounts, G body poly mounts from summit racing (they are softer than everyone else's), and two factory rubber uppers with poly lowers at the very rear of the frame. The body is 1/8" lower than original. Hopefully this combo still works to prevent twisted up 1/4 panels.
The 6 mounts at the rockers are super stiff. I used some spare poly bushings at the lowers at each mount. The centers are shoved into the DOM tube so it shouldn't move more than compressed poly will give.
I also finished up the MLV and Carpet padding/insulation. I wound up with rubber backed 3/8 padding. From the bottom of the windshield all the way out back. The entire kick panel is sealed up, hopefully there will not be much noise inside the cab aside from what the thin glass lets in.
I used Lockweld High Temp Adhesive for the 1st time. Seems like great stuff. Mostly brushed on. I also used some black high temp hot glue for fabrics to keep the jute stuck and to get the AC Vents glued down so they don't vibrate.
I chose to remove the factory Oil cooler since I use Synthetic oil. I can go back and add it later if oil temps become an issue.
The next few weeks will be random assembly. I also need to settle on either FAST brand injectors or Fuel Tech. As well as a bunch of random assembly stuff.
The 6 mounts at the rockers are super stiff. I used some spare poly bushings at the lowers at each mount. The centers are shoved into the DOM tube so it shouldn't move more than compressed poly will give.
I also finished up the MLV and Carpet padding/insulation. I wound up with rubber backed 3/8 padding. From the bottom of the windshield all the way out back. The entire kick panel is sealed up, hopefully there will not be much noise inside the cab aside from what the thin glass lets in.
I used Lockweld High Temp Adhesive for the 1st time. Seems like great stuff. Mostly brushed on. I also used some black high temp hot glue for fabrics to keep the jute stuck and to get the AC Vents glued down so they don't vibrate.
I chose to remove the factory Oil cooler since I use Synthetic oil. I can go back and add it later if oil temps become an issue.
The next few weeks will be random assembly. I also need to settle on either FAST brand injectors or Fuel Tech. As well as a bunch of random assembly stuff.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
A better Shot of the interior progress.
It took all day but I have the 1" taller lower ball joints in and the E brake connected and functional. REalized there are a few Nickle and Dime items i forgot to get.
Firstram
Red Skull Member
Mr. Mindless
Well-known member
With any luck, that thing will be as quiet as something 30 years newer with the windows up. getting close!
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
Yes brother. I knew when I got this car years ago that I just needed the body and the glass. The Resto bits of the process just come with the age of the "Body in White".
Right? I thought I was looking at a parts car until I zoomed in and realized what I was looking at
The silence inside will be as unnerving as ProjectTwin described, I’m jealous
That is the goal. I'm glad to share the ride here and not elsewhere like the G body places. This car will see a minimum of 45,000 miles per year. Most likely 60K with 30 days of the year in drag race duty, 7 days chasing down lower times against its baseline at hill climbs and being driven every day in between.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
Someone needs to make a 9/16" inverted flare to female 1/8" NPT adapter in stainless.... I think I can make one from a 3/16" tube fitting at one point or another. All the brake lines are complete though. It's getting tight by the firewall but there is room to service everything without removing much. I should be able to test the vacuum reservoir and hoses for leaks .
I moved the boost controller solenoids to the firewall to simplify wiring. I hope to have the fender bolted down soon with the power steering reservoir and washer tank mounted and plumbed.
Rewrap the downpipe and start on the front bumper/ intercooler lower mount that needs finish welding will be next. Along with small stuff during the weeknights.
I moved the boost controller solenoids to the firewall to simplify wiring. I hope to have the fender bolted down soon with the power steering reservoir and washer tank mounted and plumbed.
Rewrap the downpipe and start on the front bumper/ intercooler lower mount that needs finish welding will be next. Along with small stuff during the weeknights.
ANGRYBLACK
Red Skull Member
I stopped with the dashboard specifically the cluster here. As much as we want to run the HDX gauge package the way it comes as the do not want you to run the cluster lense leaving a bit of completeness. Thanks to Mikes Montes and a fresh no hole cover and trim rings the cluster looks better.
The frenched dimmer bracket led works, fumbling around in the dark for the headlamp switch is easy without mistakenly touching the dimmer. The idiot lamps have separate functional LEDs. High beams, Choke lamp for the 2 step, The Fasten seat belts LED will work if the old caddy seat switches still work, And the brake lamp, that will end up flashing with the line lock. The headlamp switch reveal will get some foam instead of the rubber boot, The dash is fitted up with fresh EVA foam at the defrost duct to dash and CR foam at the dash vent center and outer ducts. Working on cutting and trimming the soft side of velcro to seal up the gaps in the dash vents. One the domelights, Kick panel entry lights and door mounted curb lights are done everything will be in place to wire up.
The Data entry work is fun stuff. Bill of materials, Wire and device pinouts, Color Codes, etc etc. No matter, its still way more enjoyable than doing that work for production lines and production facilities. E Stop layout looks like on the dirty shop laptop.
I also scored a new unused repop drivers fender. So i got the washer tank and swapped over to a saturn vue power steering tank. I still have to get it primed in epoxy but i will do the remaining body parts when i get the hood mounted and everything shimmed up with the car under its own weight.
Once the Moroso 85392 breather tank shows up i can fit it between the methanol injection tank. I'm plan to add an additional -16 or -12 fitting and vent that to the intake valley if i can fit and weld a fitting to the stock GM valley cover. If not i will try to run -12 vents to each rocker cover.
This guy should fit ring in between the Roads 1 Gallon cell and the fender. With a 4" cold side tube between that and the Coolant tank. I may have to french the cold side pipe into the fender but i'm not sure. It will change from round 4" to Oval 4" just past the fender to get some airspace from the hotside . The Form a barrier Heat shield over the Exhaust Manifold, Meth injection Pump, trans fluid cooler hoses, heaters hoses, Heater bypass valve, Ac hoses, Air Horns and cooling fan relays will suck up every bit of room on the passenger side pretty soon.
I hope to get 6-8 hours on it tomorrow if i can shake this headache. I need to get the Charge Air cooler lower support off and fully welded up to get the cold side routed.