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Overcrawling Buggy Design - Trail Rig

ScottRS said:
Supposedly I could too, but once pictures entered the mix, suddenly NHTSA standards and crash testing did too, along with arbitrary BS, and they leaned pretty heavily into the "may issue" side of the law. Colorado has no mechanism for the little people to force it, it's basically at the discretion of the bureaucracy. I looked into "washing" it through a couple other states, and could probably do it to get SD or MT plates and title, but if I then wanted to bring it "back", Colorado wouldn't accept a homemade-car title, it was clear they wanted nothing to do with it. I'm not saying don't. Just saying make sure you don't get yourself armpit deep in something that you thought was going to work, only to find out that the one guy who said he'd help, retired last year, and his replacement is a dick.
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I completely agree, it has been difficult talking to someone at the DMV due to this “PANDEMIC”, I guess I will see if I can get an appointment with someone and show pictures and see if I may be able to make it happen.
 
BioHazard2222 said:
I would love to lower the top roof line, but I dont see how I can do it and keet headroom I need, Im 6'5" and this is about as low as it seems I can go and keep a couple inches from hitting head on upper bars.
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This part jumped out at me. A couple inches is not enough space between your melon and metal bars. Seat belts and shoulder harnesses stretch in a wreck. Add in that most people don't tighten their belts as tight as they should be to begin with and you have a big problem.

Unless you plan to wear a helmet, the cage around your head (at the very least) should have quality padding. That takes up space too.
 
Treefrog said:
The 4 link calc can help with driveline angles as well. You may want to model in the panhard, clearance with the front diff may be a problem. Its why Jeeps use bent ones. All that matters geometry wise is the endpoints.



The easiest way to allow you to cycle the suspension digitally is as follows; its not the most convenient or accurate way and it will only show one point at a time, but it is the easiest.

The panhard is considered to be a link.

  1. Links: Model the link as a solid circular bar running from one point to the other. The diameter should be the OD of the tube you plan to use for this link
  2. Extend each end of the link by 1/2 the diameter from step 1
  3. Fillet the edge by the same amount as it was extended in step 2. This should result in a hemisphere end
  4. Repeat for all links.
  5. Shocks: Create a cylinder that is is 1/2 the height of its diameter.
  6. Fillet the edges of this cylinder so that it also forms a hemisphere.
  7. As a new part, create a cylinder that is the same diameter as the max diameter of your shock or coilover. The length is the maximum extended length of the shock.
  8. Rear Axle: Create a box with the side lengths matching the diameter of your axle tube. The length of this box is 1/2 the distance between your tires
  9. Add a cylinders to the end of the cylinder from step 8 that are the same size as your tires.
  10. Front axle: Create a box with the side lengths matching the diameter of your axle tube. The length of this box is 1/2 the distance between the points formed by the intersection of the line between the ball joints or kingpins and the axle centerline.
  11. Create a cylinder at an angle going out the distance from the pivot point to the outside of the tire. The angle is the same amount as the steering angle. For more accuracy match the caster and king pin angle as well.
  12. Extend this cylinder back towards the pivot such that it has the same width as the wheel.
  13. Both axles: Mirror using the flat part of the axle tube. This should result in a dumbbell shape for the rear and a bent dumbbell in the front.
  14. Create a cylinder going from the box to the suspension mounting point. The diameter of the cylinder does not matter.
  15. Extend the cylinder by its radius and fillet to create a hemisphere end
  16. Repeat for all link and shock mounting points on axles
  17. Frame: Create spheres at all links and shock points. Ground these spheres in place
  18. Mates: * All following mates are concentric/ball mates unless noted. Different CAD programs may do this portion differently. * Mate the round link ends from steps 1-4 to the frame spheres from step 17
  19. Mate the other ball end of the link to the corresponding hemisphere on the axle
  20. Repeat for all links, it may help to drag the link to its rough orientation before performing the second mate
  21. Mate the hemisphere from step 9 to the axle shock hemisphere.
  22. Mate a second hemisphere from step 9 to the frame shock ball
  23. Mate the end of the cylinder from step 7 to the frame side hemisphere
  24. Mate the flat sides of the hemispheres from steps 22 and 23. Set the mate offset to the shock length at ride Take note of where the value for offsetting the matting surfaces is. This is how you will cycle the suspension.
To Cycle: change the value noted in step 24. Set it to the length of the shock you want to check at. To get full articulation set one side to max shock length and one to minimum. For bump set both to minimum. For droop both to max.


I tried to keep this as dumbed down, step by step, and generic as possible because I intend to copy it over to the linked suspension bible for the broader internet, so don't take it personally.

In your case, you may want to model the axles using the ones you already have, this will let you check for pinion clearance with the engine. Also watch the front upper link and the turned tire.
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Thank You TreeFrog for this great "How-To", I have started to model this up and see how it will be very useful...
 
They surely did some interesting stuff on the suspension on those... I have always kinda liked the body lines too, but wanted linked suspension and a few modernized updates, but I would be lying if I said I didn’t have some of the similar body lines as the old Scorpion did. I guess if it works, it works. It’s not going to be everyone’s favorite, but I’m building for what works good for me I guess...
On my design,I did sell my SBC and got a 5.3 LS engine for it, and I think I have most everything as far as the suspension figured out, I’m just still trying to make the suspension artuiculate so I can see if I am going to have frame rub or other issues, but I’m struggling with modeling it in Solidworks to articulate. I will eventually get it, then I can start bending and welding tube.
 
start with something basic and understand how things work.

to keep things simple for stuff i will just create a 3d center mark of sorts. this allows me to make the centers of things coincide and it cuts down on the model and mate complexities.
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