Outdoor Subpanel in brick repair Qs

[[memphis]]

So I've had my outdoor panel for several years now, overall quite happy with it except the 50 amp plug always rocked back and forth which irritated me. I tried to tighten it today and discovered that the panel itself isn't really held onto the brick wall... the contractor blew out chunks of brick... out of 3 holes, only one is really good, the top hole is questionable and going in at about 45 degrees. I am sure it will eventually fail as I plug and unplug power cords. The third hole is biting into nothing... they tried to jam copper wire into the hole to take out some of the slop without success.

If I remove the other fasteners I'm worried I won't have anything good left to bite into and there isn't that much wire inside to actually move the panel and the run has been buried in drywall in the basement.

So my current thought is... what if I used a stud? Could I fill the cavity with epoxy, jam the stud in and wait for it to cure and then bolt it down with a washer and nut? I thought about using a hoist bolt (the type that you hammer down and it expands) but I am worried I'll cause more damage to the brick. If I remove the panel completely I assume I could install some sort of anchor in the holes but I don't see how a piece of plastic is going to hold it in any better.

I didn't measure but it looks like they used a #12 fastener about 1.5" long. I tried jamming a 2" #14 into the hole and hit nothing...

 

[PAToyota]

The stud and epoxy sounds like a plan to me.

 

[kf4zht]

Lag shields

 

[PAToyota]

If the brick is already crumbling, I'd be concerned that lag shields are just going to increase the issue.

 

[bgaidan]

No reason epoxied studs wouldn't work. Might make it hard to remove/swap the box down the road though. You could also epoxy in drop-in style anchors. Or just fill the holes completely with a thick epoxy (like that jb stick clay-like stuff) and then drill and use tapcons or something like that.

 

[kf4zht]

If the brick is already crumbling, I'd be concerned that lag shields are just going to increase the issue.

It its drilled for a #12 now you are going to remove a decent bit for even a small sized lag shield. I've used them repeatedly in cinder block to replace direct screwed stuff that crumbles the block.

 

[MigGunslinger]

Home depot sells tubes of concrete anchor epoxy, next to the simpson strong ties etc. Simpson brand and redhead. The redhead sets up a bit faster but both are fine. That or drill some new mounting holes and use some small diameter tap cons.

 

[M92PV4U]

Lag shields

If the brick is already crumbling, I'd be concerned that lag shields are just going to increase the issue.

It its drilled for a #12 now you are going to remove a decent bit for even a small sized lag shield. I've used them repeatedly in cinder block to replace direct screwed stuff that crumbles the block.

I'd use a lag shield, lead anchor actually this size.

https://www.grainger.com/product/MKT-FASTENING-Expansion-Anchor-10-to-14-22A670

Or just epoxy a anchor or all thread in place.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

pictures of your shit show?

 

[arse_sidewards]

Pics of panel?

In your situation I'd be tempted to try the plastic lag shields since that might be a little easier on the brick. You can probably get the right size to drop them into the existing blown out holes.

 

[Muckin_Slusher]

I usually mount me electrical stuff on a plate of aluminum because the factory holes in panels or FS boxes often aren't suitable (wrong location, or fastener holes too small, etc). Gives you a nice big mounting flange.

Bolt your box to a piece of aluminum that is bigger than the box, then you can make holes whereever is suitable, and whatever size you want. You can also drill through the aluminum as a guide to ensure your masonry holes don't wander (like a template).

I use aluminum because it's soft and easy to work with and it doesn't corrode away. Could just as easily use painted steel. Could also use plywood if indoors.

 

[[memphis]]

Pics of panel?

In your situation I'd be tempted to try the plastic lag shields since that might be a little easier on the brick. You can probably get the right size to drop them into the existing blown out holes.

@Muckin_Slusher

I'll have to do it on Friday when I'm back from tradeshows. I reassembled everything so you can't see the mount holes from the outside. I had thought about the template idea as well... steel but aluminum is a much better idea. Yeah I'd have to fully remove it but I could also place fasteners exactly where I want it as you said...