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Operation Mobile Meth Lab Retrieval -12v cummins guys and allison tranny guys welcome.

You should really look for an ugly, well used. 2005 ford hurricane with 33,000 miles. I hear theres one in prunedale that could be bought cheap
Hell no! You need to keep that thing so our kids can go camping. I got a pretty rad trip to the San Diego mountains lined up in March. Bikes, RCs, Stacycs, Julian Apple Pie... You can ride my ebike.

2 or 3 VSS Allison?
Oooh, no one has asked me about the VSS before and issues with that hadn't crossed my mind. I'm not actually sure, so whatever recommendation you have for me would have to take place in the parking lot of a Torrence city park.

Just don't give up part way through like that deuce and a half-ass guy :flipoff2:
Hell no. Best case scenario I get my wife to keep it and I get a cool old motorhome that gets 12 mpg and can tow a crapload of weight. Worst case, it's my down payment on something fancy.

whats the shift slector look like ? is the type that will shit out codes for you?
Naw, just a regulars shift lever, no buttons or digital display.

I dig the motorhome. And Cummins brah!

Here's the fix: Swap in a man pedal. :smokin:
That has indeed crossed my mind. The motor sits right next to me. I hurt my brain one day trying to figure out how that shifter linkage would look.

You're a no balls cuck if you get this fixed and cave to your wife and sell it.

Be a man. Tell her you're keeping it.

It's a sweet ride. If you do sell I'll come out, put it on a flat bed, bring it home and kick your wife's purse where your balls are kept. :flipoff2:
Ha, deal. No matter what it's going to get fixed, so you probably wouldn't need a flat bed, just a good set of ball kickin boots.
 
Hell no! You need to keep that thing so our kids can go camping. I got a pretty rad trip to the San Diego mountains lined up in March. Bikes, RCs, Stacycs, Julian Apple Pie... You can ride my ebike.
Ill just send Rowdy with you, in my old motorhome :lmao:

Sounds like a good time, let me know the details when it gets closer
 
I don't know the fix, but I definitely agree that if you sell it because "wife", you should stop posting here.

My wife knows that if she suggests I sell something that I don't want to, she can also go back to live with her mom/dad/brother :laughing:.
 
I don't know the fix, but I definitely agree that if you sell it because "wife", you should stop posting here.

My wife knows that if she suggests I sell something that I don't want to, she can also go back to live with her mom/dad/brother :laughing:.
To be honest, at the moment I'm pissed at the damn thing too. It's one thing to break down in the ghetto by yourself or with your hungover-from-the-weekend wheeling buddies. It's another thing to have it happen with your 4 year old and your 1.5 year old. It's never left me stranded this bad, and I don't want to repeat the experience either.

One of those Kodiak Super Cs sure is looking nice right about now, even if it is a little longer and will probably cost twice as much in fuel to run.


Whatever though. Eyes on the prize, one step at a time and all that. First I've got to get the old girl home, and if I'm lucky/smart enough the TCM will treat me right the whole way.
 
That's how you fuck up your grounds and then wind up going in circles.

Check resistance to ground and that's it.
:shaking: Is there nothing you aren't an expert at?

I guess I should have clarified that I meant electrically clean grounds and power, as in being able to handle the load without breaking down. Resistance that a meter measures means fuck all if the circuit cant handle the load.

But WTF would I know. I've only been working on cars for 25 years.
 
:shaking: Is there nothing you aren't an expert at?

I guess I should have clarified that I meant electrically clean grounds and power, as in being able to handle the load without breaking down. Resistance that a meter measures means fuck all if the circuit cant handle the load.

But WTF would I know. I've only been working on cars for 25 years.
Fucking noob, he's been doing it 26 years so you don't know shit over him. 🙄
 
:shaking: Is there nothing you aren't an expert at?

I guess I should have clarified that I meant electrically clean grounds and power, as in being able to handle the load without breaking down. Resistance that a meter measures means fuck all if the circuit cant handle the load.

But WTF would I know. I've only been working on cars for 25 years.

Rule #1 of 30+yo wiring is to touch it as minimally as possible. You should know that.
 
Rule #1 of 30+yo wiring is to touch it as minimally as possible. You should know that.
Ahem 40... But actually the motor and tranny swap happened in 2006 according to the paperwork. So we should be good, right? :flipoff2:


You guys want to hear all the weird wiring gremlins that keep me up at night wondering if they're related?

Sometimes my tach works, sometimes it don't. Usually some solid potholes in the road control this. If I connect with the most basic of basic cell phone car scanners, even when the tach doesn't work, the TCM can still give me an RPM reading. That number is about 500 rpm off what the tach will report.

On our last trip, everything worked great(except the tach, but I didn't care) until I pulled off the the freeway and onto surface streets. I then encountered about a mile of the most broken pavement I have ever driven this thing over. Cabinets rattling, dash shaking, screen door clanking, you name it. My TCM took a lunch break during that, and my tach started working again. I had about 2 miles of surface streets, plus another 2 miles of washboard dirt road to get to our campsite, so I figured screw it, I'll swap in a TPS once we setup camp. After thinking about how it might be a loose wire issue, I decided that I would instead wait until I drove back down the 2 miles of washboard dirt road, and then pull over and swap it on the pavement. On the way out, I got about 1.5 miles down the road, and for the first time ever, the issue fixed itself. Hit the pavement with everything shifting perfect and not error lights, so we headed for home. 160 miles later is when shit hit the fan. The tach stopped working shortly after we got on the pavement.

My tail light wiring is a mess. There have been like 3 attempts to wire in 3 different trailer plugs back there- 7 blade, flat 4, 6 pin, you name it. The 7 blade works reliably. The rest is garbage and I cleaned up quite a bit under there, but there are still some things that confuse me. The grounds are solid, but every now and then when a friend follows me, they'll tell me my tail lights are flickering. How does that relate to the TCM? The reverse lights are wired back to a neutral safety switch on the transmission that is then connected to the TCM.

The battery isolator/solenoid/battery boost setup between the house and chassis batteries hurts my brain every time I try to look at it. I keep telling myself I need to go through the whole thing to figure out if it's right or not, but I've been so busy trying to get our jeep finished that I haven't looked at it yet, and 90% of the time everything works. There is however a 100 amp breaker on the house side that occasionally trips, and all of a sudden I can hear my stereo (wired to house rather than chassis) speakers popping, the fridge dies, and everything else appears to be fine. If I go reset the breaker, everything is happy again.
 
Wire the trailer plugs out of a junction box. There is a reason they're standard on semi trailers. Shit is color coded and simple.

It sounds like you have a lot of wiring to figure out. I'm pretty confident I could cypher the battery jump, isolator situation easily, those can be complicated especially if there is 2 systems where you could get away with only a single system and a couple diodes.

The TPS issue is likely a bad connection or short across 2 wires in the harness. Have you ever put a "known bad" TPS back in later and it worked fine?
 
Check your TPS wires for shorts to ground and shorts to other pins. Try to move the wiring as little as possible or you might "fix" the problem doing the testing. Also check your terminals where they plug in, I've seen more than once where they're spread and don't make good contact on the pins, pin tension test is what I think that's called.
 
Wire the trailer plugs out of a junction box. There is a reason they're standard on semi trailers. Shit is color coded and simple.

It sounds like you have a lot of wiring to figure out. I'm pretty confident I could cypher the battery jump, isolator situation easily, those can be complicated especially if there is 2 systems where you could get away with only a single system and a couple diodes.

The TPS issue is likely a bad connection or short across 2 wires in the harness. Have you ever put a "known bad" TPS back in later and it worked fine?
Not yet, but I only recently discovered what voltage they are supposed to be sending back and how to test them. I did have the one that I assumed went bad, start working again before I got around to replacing it. That had never happened before, but then again I have never had to drive down 2 miles of harsh washboard road in it before.

The more I actually talk about it with you guys here, the more I'm starting to think there's something loose somewhere else causing my issue. Previously I did trace the 3 wires for the TPS from the sensor all the way back up to the TCM, but maybe something is tripping up the whole TCM.
 
Not yet, but I only recently discovered what voltage they are supposed to be sending back and how to test them. I did have the one that I assumed went bad, start working again before I got around to replacing it. That had never happened before, but then again I have never had to drive down 2 miles of harsh washboard road in it before.

The more I actually talk about it with you guys here, the more I'm starting to think there's something loose somewhere else causing my issue. Previously I did trace the 3 wires for the TPS from the sensor all the way back up to the TCM, but maybe something is tripping up the whole TCM.


I'd spend some time on your harness. Re-do all grounds, look for wire breaks, etc.
 
Power and grounds to the TCM are very important, it will do funny stuff if you lose ignition power to the TCM too. Really need to check codes to see what direction you need to take. Allison trouble shooting is awesome, well compared to Navistar. My Allison doc has it but I work for a dealer so not sure about yours.
 
I'm pretty confident I could cypher the battery jump, isolator situation easily, those can be complicated especially if there is 2 systems where you could get away with only a single system and a couple diodes.
Here's a little taste of the chaos. I just need to take some time and work JUST on that. I'm pretty sure it can be more simple(and a lot cleaner) than it is, but it works 99% of the time:
IMG_20200715_132238.jpg
 
Here's a little taste of the chaos. I just need to take some time and work JUST on that. I'm pretty sure it can be more simple(and a lot cleaner) than it is, but it works 99% of the time:
IMG_20200715_132238.jpg
That's what I expected.

You can charge your house and chassis batteries off of the alternator or generator right?

If so that whole mess could be reduced down to 1 500 amp constant duty solenoid and a few wires going to 1 dp/dt toggle. It'd be easier with 2 500 amp constant duty solenoids and the same switch and wires but 1 would do it.
 
Had an issue like this years ago on a 38ft DP with the 12 valve, tac worked when it wanted to, fuel guage did not, shift solenoids acted funny etc.

Took it to an auto electrical shop and bam, problems were gone. Best $1100 I've ever spent :laughing:
 
:lmao: that's glorious
Now you know why I've been avoiding it :flipoff2:

I also found some equally as clear documentation included in the binder. I really really really wish I could read the handwriting.

IMG_20200629_155924.jpg


Two things occurred to me:
1. I probably couldn't do much better without some adult supervision
2. They stuck to the plan almost exactly as drawn.
 
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That's what I expected.

You can charge your house and chassis batteries off of the alternator or generator right?

If so that whole mess could be reduced down to 1 500 amp constant duty solenoid and a few wires going to 1 dp/dt toggle. It'd be easier with 2 500 amp constant duty solenoids and the same switch and wires but 1 would do it.
I can charge my house off of alternator or generator, the chassis battery I have to hold down the "battery boost" switch on my dash, and I can hear a solenoid click, which I'm pretty sure is making a connection between my chassis and house batteries incase I need to use the house to jump start the chassis.

I like how it works, I just really need to clean up the wires.
 
Have you seen the kodiak chassis ones with the bunk beds in the middle? Thats what i really want
Yes. Pretty much what I want. Looks like all the bunk bed floor plans only apply to the 37 ft. and not the shorter versions. If we go that direction, I want to try and keep it as close to 30' as possible since I love how easy it has been to jam our current rig in tight spaces.
 
Bottom right of picture. Broken spade terminal on green wire.

Edit: and middle of the pic, black wire with ring terminal just hanging out not connected to anything:lmao:
 
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