What's new

Nissan Pathfinder heat issue

Can't retorque them because it's the coating that wears off of the layers of the gasket. The leak ends up carving a channel in the gasket layers or between the gasket and block deck or head surface.
you could try to leave the expansion tank cap off but you might just end up blowing the coolant out as it expands. Cyl head jobs on the vq engines are a huge undertaking. I drop the engine out and do it on a stand. Not worth it any other way. I can't remember what the book hours are. But it's probably in the realm of 30ish hours.
If you go for a drive, smell the expansion tank. Does it smell like exhaust?
 
Can't retorque them because it's the coating that wears off of the layers of the gasket. The leak ends up carving a channel in the gasket layers or between the gasket and block deck or head surface.
you could try to leave the expansion tank cap off but you might just end up blowing the coolant out as it expands. Cyl head jobs on the vq engines are a huge undertaking. I drop the engine out and do it on a stand. Not worth it any other way. I can't remember what the book hours are. But it's probably in the realm of 30ish hours.
If you go for a drive, smell the expansion tank. Does it smell like exhaust?

I knew they were a PITA but 30 hours is way more than I thought it would be.

I got a 100 mile trip tomorrow so I will experiment with the cap off and see what it does.

I will also give it a smell test.

​​​​​​​
 
GM cooling system sealer tablets or the Bars leaks equivalent (not regular Barr’s leaks) will likely seal it up if it is a small HG leak.
 
didn't read thread
these specific ones absolutely fucking suck for getting air trapped in the heater core
the higher trim lines or something got an electric aux pump in the heater hoses
you've basically got to vacuum fill them and even then if you've got any combustion leakage whatsoever it's going to airlock itself again
get you a junkyard pump from a newer nissan, mercedes or second gen prius
just wire it to a switch on the dash
 
^Pour in the magic juice for the cheap fix and pray.

Or bite the bullet,30hr at 100 an hr is only 3k. Car looks like it's worth it.

Yozsi, what's your hourly rate? Around here I think they charge $100 hr at dealerships.
 
GM cooling system sealer tablets or the Bars leaks equivalent (not regular Barr’s leaks) will likely seal it up if it is a small HG leak.

is this a real option?

I just do not see how any sealer could seal a combustion chamber leak, anyone have any input on this?

Would love if something like that would make a difference.
 
Poked through the thread enough to see the pictures, that one should have a pump on the heater core lines
it was the shorter xterra and frontiers that didn't
look on the firewall, it should be there and IIRC it should run when you turn the blower motor to max
might have gone bad or something
 
[486 said:
;n179446]Poked through the thread enough to see the pictures, that one should have a pump on the heater core lines
it was the shorter xterra and frontiers that didn't
look on the firewall, it should be there and IIRC it should run when you turn the blower motor to max
might have gone bad or something

It does have the booster pump, I will reverify that it is still working.
 
is this a real option?

I just do not see how any sealer could seal a combustion chamber leak, anyone have any input on this?

Would love if something like that would make a difference.

Leaks come and go. It's worth a shot. Blue devil is one I think I've seen used.

Like I said, tap into lower hose. One T and three hose clamps.
 
Leaks come and go. It's worth a shot. Blue devil is one I think I've seen used.

Like I said, tap into lower hose. One T and three hose clamps.

currently the heater cores are fed from the thermostat housing, what is your reasoning for changing that to the lower hose?
 
^Pour in the magic juice for the cheap fix and pray.

Or bite the bullet,30hr at 100 an hr is only 3k. Car looks like it's worth it.

Yozsi, what's your hourly rate? Around here I think they charge $100 hr at dealerships.

Damn that's cheap. We are at 150/hr
 
600 a month makes no sense. This is his winter beater.
another $1200 car at auction makes sense.
sell the blown up one to offset cost.

You think people who have to pay $150 hr are the type to rinse and repeat auction cars? Maybe down on MLK street, but other folks have work at 8am :flipoff2:

winter beater... silly yankees.
 
You think people who have to pay $150 hr are the type to rinse and repeat auction cars? Maybe down on MLK street, but other folks have work at 8am :flipoff2:

winter beater... silly yankees.

You lost me, he's to rich? I must still be hooched.

P.S. we won the war and carved out summer homes down there. And made you stop with that slave shit.
:flipoff2:
 
I would replace the dummy radiator cap on the radiator. When they get old they leak under quick acceleration.
 
X2 on those GM tablets. Not sure it would work on this but I have used them on a few vehicles and they work. I had a 300zx that lost a half a gallon a week, a few tablets and it never used a drop again, never overheated or anything.

A friend of mine had a Mack with a 350hp engine he said it used a gallon per day and he couldn’t find the leak. I suggested the GM tablets before he pulled it apart. He added several packs and it never used a drop again. He said he couldn’t believe it.

They are some organic tablets. GM made them for some engine they made that had porous castings and it works.

I wouldn’t trust anything made by Barrs.

The GM tablets are cheap too.
 
X2 on those GM tablets. Not sure it would work on this but I have used them on a few vehicles and they work. I had a 300zx that lost a half a gallon a week, a few tablets and it never used a drop again, never overheated or anything.

A friend of mine had a Mack with a 350hp engine he said it used a gallon per day and he couldn’t find the leak. I suggested the GM tablets before he pulled it apart. He added several packs and it never used a drop again. He said he couldn’t believe it.

They are some organic tablets. GM made them for some engine they made that had porous castings and it works.

I wouldn’t trust anything made by Barrs.

The GM tablets are cheap too.

These are the same thing. They probably made them for GM. You can buy a big jar of them too. They are overpriced at this link.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bar-s-Lea...f8bcc5ac53d3ad
 
This is why people buy new Kia/Hyundai. No offense to you, but $600 a month for something new makes more sense.

Do you use the same logic when it comes to an electrician/plumber/roofer? :laughing: might as well buy a new manufactured house on a trailer when the roof goes on your house.
 
the rear hoses leak. You can cap them by the firewall on The passenger side. That should fix your problem.

How the hell did we go from this to "it's obviously the HG"?
 
"OK this has been fixed.

The issue per the dealer was an "air pocket" in the heater core. A flush was all was needed to fix the problem.

Other points of note:

There was a "bleeder" valve inline in the coolant feed to the heater. This was slightly leaking and letting air into the system. The tech said it was wise to just take this inline valve out as they tend to cause more problems than they are worth."

https://www.nissanforums.com/threads/2005-pathfinder-fan-works-but-no-heat.168248/
 
is this a real option?

I just do not see how any sealer could seal a combustion chamber leak, anyone have any input on this?

Would love if something like that would make a difference.

Yes. My 3.4 had a HG leak in cyl 3 and he recommended those tablets(I got the Bar's version). It sealed itself after a half hour drive. Been fine since. I don't expect it to last forever but if it does then it was a cheap fix

I have drained the fluid last spring and it came out clean with the tablet particles floating around. This is 28k miles later.
 
I just watched the cold war motors guy use those GM tabs to fix an external leak that was enough to leak 2 gallons of coolant overnight out of a block plug.

not sure about head gasket things.
 
Those GM sealer tabs are no joke. Back in the day when I was racing circle track cars I did some dumb shit on a restart and drove into the guy in front of me. His bumper cover knocked the cap off my expansion tank as I drove under him but with only 3 laps left in the heat I decided not to pull in....... Well the motor got so hot it cracked one of the heads. Like visible crack under the center exhaust ports type stuff, not good. Guy we raced with gave us some GM sealer tabs and told us to put them in refill with water and drive it around the pits for a while. We all had our doubts about the "magic" tablets but those fuckers worked!! I ended up finishing 2nd that night and had no overheating problems. Monday morning we pulled the heads and sent them out to be pinned and welded, so I can't speak for the longevity of it but those tablets definitely work as advertised. :smokin:
 
I did some looking around on the truck this morning.

Coolant was 3/4 a gallon low and the oil was no where to be found on the dipstick, the oil was last checked and filled less than 2 weeks ago.

While reving the engine to bleed the coolant tons of blue smoke from the exhaust

The motor is fuckerd.

Yea I could try those pills or other stuff and they might fix it up some but I need at least one vehicle I can trust to drive anywhere.

I am just going to have the engine pulled out and replaced with a newer to me one.

Likely toss in some new converters at the same time.

Pretty sure I have had a head gasket issue this whole time and it is now just getting worse, heat was hot as fuck on the 130 drive today tho :)
 
just keep topping it up
it's a vq engine, it'll keep puttering along poorly until it rusts in half
when the converters plug just cut them out and get your money from them

oh and don't forget it's a fuckin' nissan, they're never worth actually fixing up.
 
Top Back Refresh