New Truck Time - 2020 Tundra.

[rattlewagon]

I was told to pull all the plugs in the rockers too.... I have like 8 can sitting here, just need to find the time!

I put 2 gallons of fluid film into my tundra the first go around. Rust sucks.

 

[Java230]

I put 2 gallons of fluid film into my tundra the first go around. Rust sucks.

Yes it does!! I did all the seam welds/drain holes and body plugs I could find. And somehow found a few that get inside the cab it seems Its a little stinky inside....I need to get a good pressure wash in the wheel wells and do them before ski season.

 

[Java230]

Solar time!
I had planned a rigid panel originally, but mounting with such a low roof rack meant it was almost impossible. So I ordered a flex panel.

Yes I loose some efficiency, yes it will probably add a bit of heat into the canopy. Its also a bit longer than the original plan. Bad news its shaded by the roof bars.... More efficiency lost.

I measured, 22.5 is supposed to be max voltage, I was getting 21.6 with the shade.... Ill take it.

Step one, good in place with polyurethane sealant/adhesive (this probably would have been fine on its own.... Step two Etrenabond tape on the edges. Start at the back and lap towards the front for wind resistance when driving

Done. Controller tomorrow, maybe!

 

[Java230]

Friends texting you Sunday morning are bad....

 

[flatlander757]

Awesome truck!

I calibrate ADAS stuff like radar/BSM/FFC for a living so feel free to reach out and ask any questions.

 

[Java230]

Awesome truck!

I calibrate ADAS stuff like radar/BSM/FFC for a living so feel free to reach out and ask any questions.

Sweet! I am going to loose RCTA with the steel bumper but otherwise the front radar works fine.

 

[flatlander757]

Sweet! I am going to loose RCTA with the steel bumper but otherwise the front radar works fine.

Yeah, but just know that the tolerance for those sensors is +/-0.5 deg. You really need to fabricate a trihedral and get a Techstream subscription (which isn't expensive) to perform a radar beam axis inspection , and if it's reasonably close to spec, then perform a beam axis adjustment which fine tunes the angle.

This ADAS stuff is no joke to screw with. I've been called to shops multiple times because they scan the car, there are no codes, but the sensor is facing a couple degrees up down, left or right and it picks up random shit it shouldn't.

My favorite case was when a shop called me out to calibrate the sensor after they had already returned it to the customer... There were no codes and it didn't do anything weird when they test drove it 5 mi so they figured it was fine. 2 months go by and it slammed the brakes on at 75 mph going into a tunnel. Turns out it was angled up + left about 5 deg.

I've also seen cases of vehicles slamming the brakes in the middle of an intersection when making a left turn on a solid green light, it picks up cars nearby and hits the brakes because it thinks collision imminent.

It always works great until it doesn't.

The beam axis inspection will tell you if it's picking up parts of the bumper etc and throwing off the actual position or not.

For what it's worth, Toyota has a TSB where if you bring your car to them and it's lifted or lowered, or has a bumper installed, they will disable everything forward collision and lane keeping related. Obviously if you want to keep it functional that's not the way to go, but just figured I'd pass it along.

 

[Java230]

Yeah, but just know that the tolerance for those sensors is +/-0.5 deg. You really need to fabricate a trihedral and get a Techstream subscription (which isn't expensive) to perform a radar beam axis inspection , and if it's reasonably close to spec, then perform a beam axis adjustment which fine tunes the angle.

This ADAS stuff is no joke to screw with. I've been called to shops multiple times because they scan the car, there are no codes, but the sensor is facing a couple degrees up down, left or right and it picks up random shit it shouldn't.

My favorite case was when a shop called me out to calibrate the sensor after they had already returned it to the customer... There were no codes and it didn't do anything weird when they test drove it 5 mi so they figured it was fine. 2 months go by and it slammed the brakes on at 75 mph going into a tunnel. Turns out it was angled up + left about 5 deg.

I've also seen cases of vehicles slamming the brakes in the middle of an intersection when making a left turn on a solid green light, it picks up cars nearby and hits the brakes because it thinks collision imminent.

It always works great until it doesn't.

The beam axis inspection will tell you if it's picking up parts of the bumper etc and throwing off the actual position or not.

For what it's worth, Toyota has a TSB where if you bring your car to them and it's lifted or lowered, or has a bumper installed, they will disable everything forward collision and lane keeping related. Obviously if you want to keep it functional that's not the way to go, but just figured I'd pass it along.

Interesting, mine id freak out at a shadow once, but that was before lift/bumper etc if I remember right.

This is a aftermarket copy of an OE Grill so in theory the sensor is in the right location and angle. But yes I have no way of knowing. There is no adjustment at all in the sensor mount?

I do want to keep the radar for cruise etc.

 

[flatlander757]

So the 2020 Tundra technically doesn't have a requirement unless the module is replaced, but in all practical sense, anytime the grill is changed or damaged, etc it needs to be re-aimed.

I pulled up a few repair orders for 17+ Tundras I've calibrated and every single one was out of spec as found after grille replacement. Worst being out by +1.8 deg upwards.

Also I mis-spoke earlier on the tolerances... On most models it is +/-0.5 in any direction, but on a 2020 Tundra it's +/- 0.4 vertical, and +/- 0.3 horizontal.

They get aimed at a distance of 3000mm from the front bumper, and 0.4 deg translates to a tolerance of 21mm vertical, and 16mm horizontal.

The main issue with having a bumper in front of the truck, even if it seems to be working okay is that when you calibrate the sensor, you have to do so with about 20 ft long x 16ft wide of free space in front of the truck. Any metal objects in that area can throw off the radar accuracy. Obviously while Toyota does not approve aftermarket bumpers putting stuff in front of the radar module, I would imagine that if it is completely fixed in relation to the radar, the most accurate way to calibrate it would be to do so with the bumper installed.

The other way to test the theory of the bumper messing with it or not would be to perform the beam axis inspection with no reflector placed, and also with the reflector placed on the bumper in places where it might be detected to see if it is in or out of the range of the radar useful area. If you could stick the target on the bumper and gives you a no target found error, I'd say your bumper is ok.

If you happened to live way closer I'd help you out, as our company is trying to figure out what to do with regards to calibrating modified vehicles, and some experimentation like mentioned above would be useful.

 

[Java230]

So the 2020 Tundra technically doesn't have a requirement unless the module is replaced, but in all practical sense, anytime the grill is changed or damaged, etc it needs to be re-aimed.

I pulled up a few repair orders for 17+ Tundras I've calibrated and every single one was out of spec as found after grille replacement. Worst being out by +1.8 deg upwards.

Also I mis-spoke earlier on the tolerances... On most models it is +/-0.5 in any direction, but on a 2020 Tundra it's +/- 0.4 vertical, and +/- 0.3 horizontal.

They get aimed at a distance of 3000mm from the front bumper, and 0.4 deg translates to a tolerance of 21mm vertical, and 16mm horizontal.

The main issue with having a bumper in front of the truck, even if it seems to be working okay is that when you calibrate the sensor, you have to do so with about 20 ft long x 16ft wide of free space in front of the truck. Any metal objects in that area can throw off the radar accuracy. Obviously while Toyota does not approve aftermarket bumpers putting stuff in front of the radar module, I would imagine that if it is completely fixed in relation to the radar, the most accurate way to calibrate it would be to do so with the bumper installed.

The other way to test the theory of the bumper messing with it or not would be to perform the beam axis inspection with no reflector placed, and also with the reflector placed on the bumper in places where it might be detected to see if it is in or out of the range of the radar useful area. If you could stick the target on the bumper and gives you a no target found error, I'd say your bumper is ok.

If you happened to live way closer I'd help you out, as our company is trying to figure out what to do with regards to calibrating modified vehicles, and some experimentation like mentioned above would be useful.

I do wish you were closer. In all honesty this is way over my head.....

 

[flatlander757]

I do wish you were closer. In all honesty this is way over my head.....

I'll stop shitting up your thread with this, but if you want to read more about it, here's a post of mine from another forum on the topic with several photos of procedures in process, plus a link to an article I wrote on the subject. Further down there's also a podcast I went on and that link is there too.

ADAS and the Car Enthusiast

ADAS and the Car Enthusiast

grassrootsmotorsports.com

 

[Java230]

I'll stop shitting up your thread with this, but if you want to read more about it, here's a post of mine from another forum on the topic with several photos of procedures in process, plus a link to an article I wrote on the subject. Further down there's also a podcast I went on and that link is there too.

ADAS and the Car Enthusiast

ADAS and the Car Enthusiast

grassrootsmotorsports.com

Ha My build is over on GRM too

Ill give it a read.

 

[Java230]

Bumper time! OK overall its not bad, and it was cheap. But some things I just don't like.

Fist, cheapest cheesiest lights and hardware. Holes are pre cut for them....

Tow tabs are pretty rough

The holes for the parking sensors are too big.... Its laser cut, why not cut them the right shape?!
Factory hole

Bumper hole

The bolts are a wee short IMO

And lastly, the brackets that the bumper bolts too, and the plates that bolt to the truck had a little gap between them. Tired to get a picture, but it was in an impossible location. Maybe not the end of the world, but that seems like a little more added stress on the bolts.

But onto install!

Factory bumper is a LOT of parts.... And it takes a lot of disassembly to get them off!

Old stuff off.

Bumper brackets are pretty nicely made. They tie to the factory hitch bolts. The hitch is stamped, so they add backer plates to avoid the curved areas.

Bumper just bolts to the brackets. I wish the hardware was a bit bigger (3x3/8" bolts each side) but I assume AP did their homework on strength. Getting it even side to side was a bit of a paint, but its on. Left the lights out to get some decent stainless hardware.... Not sure departure angle is any better (hitch is the lowest point anyway) but its definitely way beefier than the factory stuff!

Ill add a dab of silicone to the back side of the parking sensors when I do the lights, they flop too much for my liking.

 

[Java230]

A little fun tidbit..... The new Tundra has reflector LED headlights. They don't produce enough heat to melt snow..... That was fun. I'm really glad to have the Diode Dymanics fogs, they get hot enough to melt snow off! And are bright enough for lower speed snow driving.


Finally got around to installing my hood light bar. But it was snowing too hard to use it really.

A little chop chop, and it fits perfect.