New t 111 leaking

[B-rock]

Welp I built a shed, First time building anything like this. Leaned a ton and that's mostly what this was all about. Now the rain is here I'm having an issue. The side of the shed where the T 111 siding horizontal seam is for the gable, I am getting water wicking up the bottom of the top piece of T 111. I installed a Z strip on that seam. I believe what is happening is the water runs down and into the seam, Z strip keeps the water out of the shed, but does not keep it from wicking up the bottom of the tip piece of siding.

should I caulk the seam? Im planning on putting some stain on the inside to "help" keep it sealed. but would like a better mechanical seal. maybe place a painted and caulked piece of trim over the seam?

 

[SomeGuy]

Did you put a building wrap behind it? Generally siding is not supposed to be considered 100% water tight and the warp is there to keep the water from hitting the wood.

 

[B-rock]

Did you put a building wrap behind it? Generally siding is not supposed to be considered 100% water tight and the warp is there to keep the water from hitting the wood.

A few things on this, No wrap. My house does not have it (not that it really means anything but....) so i figured this will not get it either. even if it had a wrap, the water would still wick up the back side of the siding.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

should of calked when installing the zee trim.
so that the t 111 sat in the sealant.
stain does not seal
paint does not seal

 

[B-rock]

should of calked when installing the zee trim.
so that the t 111 sat in the sealant.

stain will not stickto sealant, so you better use a color matched sealant to the stain.

I agree, should have would have... now I know.

 

[jeeptj19992001]

I agree, should have would have... now I know.

need to seal the exterior side, so water does not wick up into the t 111

 

[Rockbuggy84]

I don’t buy Home Depot Z bar for this reason. They bend it flat instead of leaving a slight angle for water shed. I’ve even seen it bent beyond flat and allows water to puddle in it, this causing the wood to wick.

Proper setup IMO is slightly angled z bar. You should not have to caulk there.

Z bar is a drain by design. If you caulk it, you plugged the drain.

Edit, I personally would’ve left a slight gap (using nails as my spacer) to insure the panel is never sitting in water. It will wick and be rotted out in no time.

 

[Ted_Kaczynski]

Build an 8 foot lean-to off that side flashed above the joint and store more stuff.

 

[B-rock]

Build an 8 foot lean-to off that side flashed above the joint and store more stuff.

I agree, I need more cover to store more shit I think I need.

 

[B-rock]

I don’t buy Home Depot Z bar for this reason. They bend it flat instead of leaving a slight angle for water shed. I’ve even seen it bent beyond flat and allows water to puddle in it, this causing the wood to wick.

Proper setup IMO is slightly angled z bar. You should not have to caulk there.

Z bar is a drain by design. If you caulk it, you plugged the drain.

Edit, I personally would’ve left a slight gap (using nails as my spacer) to insure the panel is never sitting in water. It will wick and be rotted out in no time.

Looking at it now I very much agree with that. Now I know.

 

[Rockbuggy84]

Looking at it now I very much agree with that. Now I know.

Little bit of a pain, but take your skill saw and set the depth just shy of the depth of the siding. Take “a blade” off the bottom where it’s touching the z bar. Then use a chisel to remove the thin layer that will still be attached. This is to insure that you don’t damage the z bar with the saw blade.

If you have an oscillating multi-tool, it’ll make it much easier with the correct attachment.

Bet that wicking will stop if it’s not constantly sitting in a puddle.

 

[B-rock]

Little bit of a pain, but take your skill saw and set the depth just shy of the depth of the siding. Take “a blade” off the bottom where it’s touching the z bar. Then use a chisel to remove the thin layer that will still be attached. This is to insure that you don’t damage the z bar with the saw blade.

If you have an oscillating multi-tool, it’ll make it much easier with the correct attachment.

Bet that wicking will stop if it’s not constantly sitting in a puddle.

I was thinking of doing just that.

 

[dave_dj1]

It's not leaking it's wicking because nobody sealed that edge and it's sitting on the flashing.

 

[D Nelly]

As said the z should have a pitch to it and there should be a gap between the bottom of the top sheet and your flashing. I like to chamfer the back of the siding up to match the pitch of the flashing so I can get a good slope and not have it be as noticable.

If you caulk that area I can bet money that the caulk will fail on the wood side first and then just funnel all the water coming down the wall behind itself and into the pan you've created. Try to open up a gap with a circular saw and hope everything drains nice

Caulking anything to wood siding is almost always a bad idea. You want to shed water as best you can and not give it anything to crash into on the way down